SUCCESS    IN    FLOWER    CULTURE. 

SELECTION   OF   SEEDS,  ---........-6 

THE   SOIL  AND   ITS   PREPARATION,    -  ........  -6 

SOWING   SEED,  ..........       7 

CAUSES  OF   FAILURE,  ........  8 

HOT -BEDS   AND   COLD-FRAMES,  ---------  8 

TRANSPLANTING]  -  ---.__--  -'10 

DISAPPOINTED   CULTIVATORS,         -  -  ---  -  -  -  -  -  -  -10 

THE    LAWN    AND    GARDEN. 

MAKING   LAWNS   AND   WALKS,  -----------12 

PLANTING   AND   ORNAMENTING  THE   LAWN,        -           -           -           -            -           -           -           -            -  J5 

BULB  AND    PERENNIAL   GROUNDS,       -                                                                                                            -  17 

GARDEN   ADORNMENTS,        -                                    ------                                    -  18 

BALCONY   GARDENS,         ........           ....  20 

WINDOW    BOXES,        -                         ...........  ^\ 

PLANTS   FOR   BALCONIES,    WINDOW   BOXES  AND   BEDDING,           -           -                        -           -           -  21 

THE    WINTER    GARDEN. 

HEAT,  -                        .............  2^ 

AIR   AND    LIGHT,-                        .......           ....  23 

SOIL  AND   WATER,    -                                                                                                            -           -           -           -  24 

CLEANLINESS,        -                                                .........  24 

THE  CONSERVATORY,                                                                                                 -           -           -           -           -  25 

WARDIAN  CASES   AND    FERNERIES,      -  -  -  -  .         -  -  -  -  -  -26 

PLANTS   FOR    HOUSE   CULTURE,     -                                                                                                                         -  26 

INSECT    ENEMIES  TO    HOUSE    PLANTS. 

THE   GREEN   FLY,  ..........           .           .          27 

THRIPS,  ----.....---28 

RED  SPIDER,  --------            -           -          28 

SCALE   INSECT,  -                                    -.---.-.--28 

MEALY   BUG,          -  .......          29 

COLD   PITS,      -  -         29,  30 

FLORAL    DECORATIONS. 

FORMING    LETTERS,         -  ...          31 

MAKING    FLORAL   DESIGNS,  -     31 

FOR   THE   CHURCH,          -  -          32 

FOR   THE    HOUSE,      -  -    33 

FOR   THE    TABLE,  -          34 

BOUQUET    MAKING,    -  -    35 

BOUQUET   AND    TRIMMING   GREEN,  -          35 

BUTTON   HOLE    FLOWERS,  -  -                                                                                                                         36,  37 

WATER    GARDENING,    -  38 

CLASSIFICATION    AND    NAMES    OF    FLOWERS,  -                                                                                    -    39 

BOTANICAL    GLOSSARY,           -  -    40-45 

PRONOUNCING   VOCABULARY   OF   BOTANICAL  NAMES,                                                                    46-54 

USEFUL    TABLES,-            -  -          54 

DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ANNUAL  FLOWERS,     -                                                                                                55-98 

CLIMBERS,  -    90-94 

EVERLASTINGS,           -  95~97 

ORNAMENTAL   GRASSES,  -  -         98 

PERENNIALS,   -  99-107 

GREEN -HOUSE, -  -  -        108 

BULBS    AND    PLANTS, 

TENDER    BULBS  AND  TUBERS,         ---------  109-115 

BORDER    PLANTS,  ._.--..__.-  II(, 

HARDY    PLANTS   AND    BULBS,       -  ..--..--  117-126 

HOLLAND    BULBS,  127-139 

HARDY    CLIMBERS,  140 

ROSES    AND    BEDDING    PLANTS,  -          141 

MUSHROOM    CULTURE,  -          142 

VEGETABLES,                                     -          143-166 


* 

ascription  ajj  ^oloretl 


ANNUALS. 

i,  TEN- WEEKS  STOCK  ;  2,  PHLOX  DRUMMONDII  ;  3,  DOUBLE  PORTULACA  ;  4,  BALSAM  ;  5,  NEMOPHILA  ; 
6,  JAPAN  COCKSCOMB  ;  7,  PANSY  ;  8,  STRIPED  PETUNIA. 

PERENNIALS. 

i,  AQUILEGIA  ;  2,  PERENNIAL  PEA;  3,  DIGITALIS,  (Fox  GLOVE;)  4,  DOUBLE  PINK;  5,  PERENNIAL 
LARKSPUR;  6,  CAMPANULA,  (CANTERBURY  BELL;)  7,  SWEET  WILLIAM  ;  8,  PICOTEE;  9,  PENTSTEMON. 

TENDER    BULBS. 

i,  TRITOMA  UVARIA  ;     2,  GLADIOLI  ;     3,  TUBEROSE;     4,  DAHLIA  ;     5,  TIGRIDIA. 

LILIES. 

I,  HUMBOLDTII  ;  2,  THUNBERGIANUM  CITRINUM  ;  3,  WASHINGTONIANl'M  ;  4,  PARVUM  ;  5,  ExCELSl'M  : 
6,  THUNBERGIANUM  GRANDIFLORUM  ;  7,  LONGIFLORUM  ;  8,  AURATUM  ;  9,  RUBRUM. 

HOLLAND    BULBS. 

i,  2,  POLYANTHUS  NARCISSUS  ;  3,  NARCISSUS  POETICUS;  4,  TRUMPET  NARCISSUS;  5,  6,  7,  8,  EARLY 
TULIPS;  9,  LATE  TULIP;  10,  DOUBLE  YELLOW  TULIP;  n,  PARROT  TULIP;  12,  CROCUS; 
13,  SINGLE  HYACINTH  ;  14,  SCILLA. 


VEGETABLES. 

i,  WAX  OR  BUTTER  BEANS  ;  2,  PEAS;  3,  PIE  PLANT  ;  4,  SWEET  CORN;  5,  HATHAWAY  TOMATO  ;  6, 
PURPLE -TOP  TURNIP;  7,  Cos  LETTUCE;  8,  WATER  MELON;  9,  CAULIFLOWER;  10,  HUBBARD 
SQUASH;  n,  SUMMER  CROOK -NECK  SQUASH;  12,  FILDERKRAUT  CABBAGE;  13,  EGG  PLANT;  14, 
LONG  GREEN  CUCUMBER;  15,  16,  MUSK  MELONS;  17,  CELERY  ;  18,  BELGIAN  GREEN-TOP  CARROT; 
19,  LONG  BLOOD  BEET;  20,  TURNIP  BEET;  21,  CALIFORNIA  RADISH;  22,  OLIVE-SHAPED  RADISH; 
23»  24,  ONIONS;  25,  BELL  PEPPER;  26,  SHORT-HORN  CARROT. 


THE  CULTURE  OF  FLOWERS  is  one  of  the  few  pleasures  that 
improves  alike  the  mind  and  the  heart,  and  makes  every  true 
lover  of  these  beautiful  creations  of  Infinite  Love  wiser  and  purer 
and  nobler.  It  teaches  industry,  patience,  faith  and  hope.  We 
plant  and  sow  in  hope,  and  patiently  wait  with  faith  in  the  rain- 
bow promise  that  harvest  shall  never  fail.  It  is  a  pleasure  that 
brings  no  pain,  a  sweet  without  a  snare.  True,  some  fail  to  realize 
their  hopes,  but  these  failures  are  usually  partial,  never  embarrassing, 
and  are  only  such  as  teach  us  to  study  more  carefully  and  obey  more 
strictly  nature's  beautiful  laws.  Thus  we  gain,  first,  wisdom,  and  then 
success  as  the  results  even  of  our  failures.  I  have  endeavored  in  a 
plain  and  pleasant  way  to  give  some  suggestions  on  the  philosophy  of 
vegetation  that  I  think  will  prove  valuable,  revealing  the  causes  of 
past  failures  and  insuring  future  success.  Indeed,  I  have  endeavored 
in  the  pages  of  the  FLOWER  GARDEN  to  make  the  subject  so  plain  as 
to  render  failure  next  to  impossible,  and  success  almost  certain. 
Experience,  however,  is  the  great  teacher.  The  book  of  nature  is  open, 
but  its  wonderful  beauties  and  mysteries  are  revealed  only  to  the  careful 
student.  Every  species  of  plants  has  peculiarities  which  must  be 
studied,  and  while  we  can  give  a  few  general  principles  we  can  furnish  nothing  that  will  compen- 
sate for  the  pleasure  and  profit  to  be  derived  from  work  and  study  in  the  garden.  Above  all 
things,  we  caution  our  readers  against  over-confidence.  No  one  has  less  confidence  in  his  own 
skill  and  knowledge  than  the  experienced  gardener.  Every  season  he  seeks  for  new  facts ;  every 
year  adds  to  his  store  of  knowledge.  Do  not,  for  a  moment,  think  that  the  purchase  of  a  few  seeds 
and  the  perusal  of  any  work  on  flower  culture  will  make  a  florist.  The  purchase  of  a  drug  store 
and  a  medical  library  will  not  make  a  physician,  nor  does  the  possession  of  paints  and  canvas 
constitute  an  artist.  To  become  skillful  in  any  art  requires  both  study  and  practice,  and  this  is 
especially  true  where  we  have  to  deal  with  nature's  laws.  The  study  of  Agriculture  and  Horti- 
culture has  engaged  the  attention  of  the  wisest  from  the  earliest  ages,  and  yet  what  wonderful 
discoveries  and  improvements  have  we  witnessed  in  our  own  day ;  and  we  are  still  learners. 
Let  us  all  profit  by  the  lessons  of  the  past  and  become  every  year  better  prepared  for  the  duties 
and  responsibilities  of  life,  more  fitted  to  conquer  its  evils  and  enjoy  its  pleasures  —  learn  to 
plant  more  carefully  and  reap  a  richer  harvest  of  pleasure  and  profit. 

5 


SUCCESS    IN    FLOWER    CULTURE. 


There  is  great  pleasure  in  success,  while  failure  causes  disappointment  and  pain.  It  \vould 
afford  me  pleasure  to  teach  every  one  how  to  succeed  in  every  case  in  one  short  lesson,  but  this 
may  not  be.  A  little  difficulty  in  its  attainment  sweetens  success,  and  of  this  sweetness  cultivators 
usually  have  a  full  share,  for  they  often  have  to  contend  against  unfavorable  weather,  insect 
enemies,  and  a  host  of  adverse  circumstances.  The  most  skillful  sometimes  obtain  success  at 
considerable  cost  of  labor  and  patience,  while  failures  are  more  common  than  welcome.  Many 
of  my  readers  are  of  limited  experience,  some  of  them  just  commencing  to  love  and  cultivate 
flowers,  and  while  a  few  fail,  I  feel  surprised  and  gratified  at  the  very  general  success  —  a  little 
proud,  perhaps,  at  having  done  something  to  train  up  an  army  of  successful  florists  all  over  our 
happy  land,  the  fruits  of  whose  peaceful  labor  beautify  every  landscape  and  perfume  every  breeze. 
I  have  endeavored  to  make  this  interesting  subject  so  plain  that  all  may  understand  the  condi- 
tions on  which  success  in  floriculture  may  generally  be  assured. 

SELECTION  OF   SEEDS. 

The  selection  of  seeds  is  an  important  matter,  and  on  the  wisdom  of  the  choice  success  or 
failure  may  depend.  Those  who  have  little  experience  should  invest  money  cautiously  and  in 
the  more  hardy  and  popular  kinds,  such  as  Asters,  Balsams,  Stocks,  Petunias,  Zinnia,  &c.,  with  a 
few  of  the  more  tender  kinds,  just  for  trial.  This  advice  will  sound  strange  to  my  old  friends 
but  these  will  please  remember  that  the  wisest  knew  but  little  once,  and  cannot  now  boast 

of    excess  of  knowledge,    and  that 


one-half     my 
people,    with 


readers     are    young 
no     experience,     yet 


HOT-BED    OR    COLD-FRAME. 


thirsting  for  knowledge.  I  am  anxious 
to  encourage  this  noble  army  by  a 
=  little  success  rather  than  to  discourage 
them  by  a  large  failure,  for  it  is  an 
army  larger  and  more  glorious  than 
i-  any  that  has  ever  ravaged  the  earth 
with  fire  and  sword,  and  stained  its 
fair  bosom  with  blood.  My  desire 
to  spread  the  love  of  flowers  all  over 
this  favored  land  is  far  greater  than 
my  care  to  make  a  few  dollars.  Half-a-dozen  flowering  plants,  well  cultivated,  will  give 
pleasure,  while  a  hundred  neglected,  or  ill  cultivated,  will  be  a  source  of  pain. 

Always  be  careful  to  get  seeds  suited  to  the  purposes  for  which  they  are  designed.  If  a  climber 
is  desired  to  cover  a  fence  or  trellis,  the  Morning  Glory,  the  climbing  Nasturtium,  and  similar 
strong  growing  vines  will  answer  the  purpose  and  give  good  satisfaction ;  while  some  of  the 
more  tender  climbers  will  not  be  likely  to  come  up  if  planted  in  such  a  situation  as  this,  and  if 
they  do  happen  to  grow,  will  not  cover  the  place  designed  for  them,  and  disappointment 
will  be  the  result.  If  the  object  is  a  brilliant,  showy  bed  on  the  lawn,  or  in  the  border,  the 
Petunia,  Phlox  Drummondii,  Verbena,  &c.,  will  meet  your  wishes  ;  while  a  bed  of  Mignonette, 
or  any  of  the  smaller  or  less  showy  flowers,  will  be  entirely  out  of  place.  If  flowers  of  taller 
growth  are  desired  for  a  showy  bed  more  in  the  back-ground,  the  Zinnia,  the  French  Marigold, 
the  Gladioli,  &c.,  are  admirably  adapted  for  the  purpose,  while  some  very  beautiful,  low,  modest 
flowers  would  be  worthless.  Grave  errors  are  sometimes  made,  and  good  flowers  condemned 
merely  because  they  are  out  of  their  proper  place.  I  have  known  people  to  sow  Calceolaria  and 
Cineraria,  and  other  very  delicate  seeds,  in  the  open  ground,  not  knowing  that  they  require  the  most 
careful  treatment  in  the  house,  and  sometimes  tax  the  skill  even  of  the  professional  florist. 

THE  SOIL  AND   ITS   PREPARATION. 

The  best  soil  for  most  flowers,  and  especially  for  young  plants,  and  one  almost  absolutely 
accessary  for  seed-beds,  is  a  rich,  mellow  loam,  containing  so  much  sand  that  it  will  not  "bake" 
after  hard  showers.  If  we  have  not  such  a  soil,  we  must  use  the  best  we  have,  and  advantage  must 
be  taken  of  the  various  plans  to  ensure  the  germination  of  seeds,  which  we  shall  describe.  It  is 

6 


also  useless  to  try  to  grow  good  flowers  on  a  poor,  or  a  hard,  unbroken  soil,  or  in  a  bed  choked  with 
weeds.  In  either  case  the  plants  become  dwarfed,  arrive  at  maturity  too  early,  and  flower  and 
ripen  their  seeds  before  they  have  attained  half  their  natural  size,  and  about  the  time  a  good 
robust  plant  would  be  forming  its  buds.  Such  a  soil  can  be  much  unproved  by  a  little  sand,  or 
ashes  and  manure,  and  by  pretty  constant  working.  It  must  not,  however,  be  handled  when  too 
wet.  Always  drain  the  flower  garden  so  that  no  water  will  be  on  or  near  the  surface. 

SOWING  SEED. 

This  is  a  very  important  matter,  and  one  in  which  the  young  florist  is  the  most  likely  to 
fail.     Some  old  and  professional  florists  make  sad  work  in  starting  seeds,  for  knowledge  is  not 

only  necessary,  but  care  and  attention. 
One  "forgot"  may  ruin  a  whole  sowing 
of  the  choicest  seeds.  Of  course,  there 
are  some  kinds  of  seeds  that  are  robust 
and  will  grow,  no  matter  how  they  are 
treated,  just  as  our  weeds  grow  and  thrive 

BOX  HAND-GLASS.  SQUARE  HAND-GLASS.         under  ill   treatment;   but  others  require 

kind  and  proper  treatment,  just  as  almost  everything  desirable  does  in  the  animal  as  well  as  in  the 
vegetable  kingdom.  Many  seem  to  think  that  seeds  will  grow  anywhere  and  under  any  circum- 
stances. They  have  seen  the  farmer  make  a  hole  and  throw  in  the  com,  and  in  a  little  while  it 
was  up  and  growing  vigorously ;  they  have  learned  that  the  seeds  of  our  native  trees  and  weeds 
grow  without  planting  and  care ;  and  from  these  (acts  they  get  the  idea  that  it  is  of  little  conse- 
quence how  or  where  seeds  are  sown,  so  that  they  are  in  the  ground.  But  these  should 
consider  that  the  seeds  used  by  the  farmer  are  usually  larger  and  produce  stronger  and  more 
robust  plants  than  those  of  the  florist,  and  thus  are  enabled  to  bear  more  hardships  and  to  live 
under  more  unfavorable  circumstances. 
Still,  farmers  are  fast  learning  that  the 
better  they  prepare  the  ground,  the  more 
carefully  they  sow  their  seed,  and  the 
more  they  study  the  nature  and  wants 
of  the  plants  they  cultivate,  the  better 
the  crops.  Another  fact  should  be 
remembered  —  that  not  one  Seed  in  a 
thousand  matured  by  our  forest  trees 
and  shrubs,  produces  a  living  plant. 
We  cannot  afford  to  purchase  costly  SEEDS  PROTECTED  BY  GLASS  BELLS. 

seeds  and  lose  such  a  large  proportion,  which  would  be  the  result  if  we  should  plant  in  the 
same  manner.  Our  weeds  are  prolific,  very  tenacious  of  life,  and  able  to  propagate  themselves 
under  the  most  unfavorable  circumstances;  otherwise  they  would  not  be  generally  known  as 
weeds.  Most  of  our  troublesome  weeds  are  of  foreign  origin,  the  seeds  being  brought  here  by 
accident.  The  larger  part  thus  introduced  have  lived  for  a  season  and  perished  unnoticed,  while 
the  hardiest  became  naturalized.  If  the  florist  would  be  satisfied  with  only  the  most  hardy  and 
prolific  flowers,  such  as  would  take  care  of  themselves,  then  he  might  pursue  a  careless  system 
of  planting  and  cultivation,  and  fill  his  grounds  with  Dandelions  and  Poppies ;  but  he  craves 

flowers  that  are  not  natural  to  our  climate  —  those  that 
flourish  in  warmer  climes  and  under  more  genial  skies  — 
their  dazzling  beauty,  their  delicious  fragrance,  must  be 
_  secured  at  almost  any  cost  of  tune  and  labor.  This  is  well ; 
;  but  having  made  up  our  minds  to  possess  the  treasures,  we 
must  pay  the  price  —  we  must  study  their  habits  and  treat 
them  accordingly.  None  need  feel  alarmed  at  these 
remarks,  or  think  themselves  incompetent  to  the  charge  of  such  choice  plants  without  hot-beds, 
green-houses  and  professional  gardeners.  We  have  known  ladies,  who,  with  but  little  preten- 
sions, equaled  the  most  distinguished  florists.  There  seemed  to  be  magic  in  their  fingers,  and 
everything  they  touched  flourished.  It  is  true  that  a  hot-bed,  if  properly  managed,  is  of  great 
aid  in  effecting  the  germination  of  seeds,  and  it  is  well  all  should  know  why  this  is  so. 

7 


PROTECTED    BV   POTS. 


SEEDS   PROTECTED   BY    LATH    FRAME. 


CAUSES   OF   FAILURE. 

In  the  first  place,  however,  \ve  will  examine  reasons  why  seeds  often  fail  to  grow.  If  seeds 
are  planted  too  deep,  they  either  rot  in  the  damp,  cold  earth,  for  the  want  of  warmth  necessary  to 
their  germination,  or,  after  their  germination,  perish  before  the  tender  shoots  can  reach  the  sun 
and  air ;  and  thus  that  which  was  designed  for  their  nourishment  proves  their  grave. 

If  the  soil  is  a  stiff  clay,  it  is  often  too  cold  at  the  time  the  seeds  are  planted  to  effect  their 
germination ;  for  it  must  be  understood  that  warmth  and  moisture  are  necessary  to  the  germina- 
tion of  seeds.  Neither  of  these  will  do  alone.  Seeds  may  be  kept  in  a  warm,  dry  room,  in 

dry  sand  or  earth,  and  they  will  not  grow.  They  may 
be  placed  in  damp  earth,  and  kept  in  a  low  tempera- 
I  ture,  and  they  will  most  likely  rot,  though  some  seeds 
;  will  remain  dormant  a  long  time  under  these  circum- 
stances. But  place  them  in  moist  earth,  in  a  warm 
room,  and  they  will  commence  growth  at  once.  In- 
deed, if  seeds  become  damp  in  a  cold  store-room  they 
rot,  while  if  the  room  is  warm  they  germinate,  and 
thus  become  ruined,  so  that  seedsmen  have  to  exer- 
cise great  care  in  keeping  their  seeds  well  aired  and 
dry.  This  accounts  for  the  "  sprouting"  or  "  growing"  of  wheat  in  the  sheaf,  when  the  weather 
is  warm  and  showery  at  harvest  time,  and  shows  why  farmers  are  so  anxious  for  good  harvest 
weather,  so  that  they  may  secure  their  grain  perfectly  dry.  Another  difficulty  with  a  heavy  soil 
is  that  it  becomes  hard  on  the  surface,  and  this  prevents  the  young  plants  from  "  coming  up  ;" 
or,  if,  during  showery  weather,  they  happen  to  get  above  the  surface,  they  become  locked  in,  and 
make  but  little  advancement,  unless  the  cultivator  is  careful  to  keep  the  crust  well  broken  ;  and 
in  doing  this  the  young  plants  are  often  destroyed. 

If  seeds  are  sown  in  rough,  lumpy  ground,  a  portion  will  be  buried  under  the  clods,  and  will 
never  grow ;  and  many  that  start,  not  finding  a  fit  soil  for  their  tender  roots,  will  perish.  A  few 
may  escape  these  difficulties,  and  flourish. 

All  of  the  foregoing  cases  show  good  reason  for  failure,  but  there  is  one  cause  which  is  not  so 
apparent.  The  soil,  we  will  suppose,  is  well  prepared,  fine  as  it  can  be  made,  and  of  that  loamy 
or  sandy  character  best  fitted  for  small  seeds.  We  will  suppose,  too,  that  the  seeds  were  sown 
on  the  surface,  with  a  little  earth  sifted  over  them,  and  that  this  was  not  done  until  the  season 
was  so  far  advanced  as  to  furnish  the  warmth  necessary  to  secure  vegetation.  Under  these  very 
favorable  circumstances  many  seeds  will  grow ;  and  if  the  weather  is  both  warm  and  showery, 
very  few  will  fail.  But  if,  as  is  very  common  at  the  season 
of  the  year  when  we  sow  our  seeds,  we  have  a  succession  of 
cold  rain  storms,  many  of  the  more  tender  kinds  will  perish. 
A  night's  frost  will  ruin  many  more.  If,  however,  the 
weather  should  prove  warm  and  without  showers,  the  sur- 
face will  become  very  dry,  and  the  seeds,  having  so  slight  SEEDS  GROWING  IN  POTS. 
a  covering,  will  be  dried  up  and  perish  as  soon  as  they  germinate,  and  before  the  roots  attain 
sufficient  size  and  strength  to  go  down  in  search  of  moisture.  Of  course,  the  finer  and 
more  delicate  seeds,  and  those  natural  to  a  more  favorable  climate,  suffer  most. 

HOT-BEDS   AND   COLD-FRAMES. 

It  is  to  overcome  the  evils  above  suggested  that  hot-beds  are  useful.  By  being  protected  at 
the  sides  and  ends  with  boards,  and  covered  with  glass,  they  confine  the  moisture  which  arises 
from  the  earth,  and  thus  the  atmosphere  is  kept  humid  and  the  surface  moist,  and  the  plants  are 
not  subjected  to  changes  of  temperature,  as  a  uniform  state  can  be  maintained  no  matter  what 
the  weather  may  be.  The  bottom  heat  of  the  hot-bed  warms  the  soil,  and  enables  the  grower  to 
put  in  his  seed  early,  and  obtain  plants  of  good  size  before  the  soil  outside  is  warm  enough  to 
receive  the  seed.  Care,  however,  is  required  to  prevent  scorching  the  young  plants.  In 
bright  days  the  heat  is  intense  inside  the  frame,  and  unless  air  is  freely  given,  or  some 
course  taken  to  obstruct  the  rays  of  the  sun,  most  likely  a  great  portion  of  the  plants  will  be 
ruined.  Some  time  since,  I  was  called  to  examine  a  hot-bed,  as  the  seeds  planted  did  not  grow, 
when  I  found  they  had  been  all  burned  up,  except  a  few  along  the  edges  that  were  shaded 


POTS    OF   SEED   SUNK   IS   MOSS. 


t>y  the  sides  and  ends  of  the  frame.  When  the  sun  gets  pretty  warm,  give  the  glass  a  thin  coat 
of  whitewash.  This  gives  a  little  shade,  and,  with  some  air  during  the  middle  of  bright  days, 
•will  make  all  safe.  The  hot-bed  is  made  by  forming  a  pile  of  horse  manure  with  the  straw  used 
for  bedding,  or  leaves,  some  three  feet  in  height.  Shake  all  together,  so  that  straw  and  manure 
will  be  equally  mixed.  It  may  be  sunk  in  the  ground  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches,  or  made  on  the 
•surface.  On  this  place  about  five  inches  of  good  mellow  soil.  Then  set  the  frame  and  keep  it 
closed  until  fermentation  takes  place  and  the  soil  is  quite  warm.  It  is  better  to  wait  a  day  or 
two  after  this,  and  then  sow  the  seeds.  The  principal  advantages  of  a  hot-bed  can  be  secured 
"by  what  is  called  a  cold-frame.  This  is  simply  a  hot-bed  frame,  with  sash,  as  shown  in  the 
•engraving,  placed  upon  a  bed  of  fine,  mellow  earth,  in  some  sheltered  place  in  the  garden.  By 
the  exclusion  of  air  and  the  admission  of  sun,  the  earth  becomes  warm,  and  the  moisture  is 

confined,  as  in  the  hot-bed.  After  the  frame  is  secured  in  its 
place,  a  couple  of  inches  of  fine  earth  should  be  placed  inside, 
and  the  frame  closed  up  for  a  day  or  two  before  the  seeds  are 
planted.  As  the  cold-frame  depends  upon  the  sun  for  its 
warmth,  it  must  not  be  started  as  soon  as  the  hot -bed,  and  in 
this  latitude  the  latter  part  of  April  is  soon  enough.  Plants 
will  then  be  large  enough  for  transplanting  to  the  open  ground 
as  soon  as  danger  from  frost  is  over,  and,  as  a  general  thing,  they  will  be  hardier  and  better  able 
to  endure  the  shock  of  transplanting  than  if  grown  in  a  hot-bed.  A  frame  of  this  kind  any  one 
can  manage.  Watering  occasionally  will  be  necessary ;  and  air  must  be  given  on  bright,  warm 
days.  Shade  also  is  necessary.  These  frames,  when  so  small  as  to  be  conveniently  moved  by 
the  hand,  are  called  hand-glasses.  A  simple  frame  or  box,  with  a  couple  of  lights  of  glass  on 
the  top,  will  answer  a  very  good  purpose,  though  when  small  it  would  be  better  to  have  the  front 
of  glass.  A  very  good  hand-glass  is  made  of  a  square  frame,  with  a  light  of  glass  at  each  side 
and  on  the  top.  These  contrivances,  though  so  simple  as  to  be  made  by  any  one  handy  with 
tools,  are  exceedingly  useful,  as  they  prevent  the  drying  of  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  afford 
the  plants  shelter  from  sudden  changes  of  the  temperature,  cold  storms  and  frosty  nights.  The 
engravings  show  several  forms  of  which  they  may  be  made.  Seeds  may  be  sown  in  the  house  in 
pots,  &c.,  but  the  greatest  difficulty  is  that  in  pots  the  soil  dries  very  rapidly,  and  young  plants 
are  apt  to  suffer.  A  very  good  plan  is  to  cover  the  pots  with  glass,  as  we  have  shown  in  the 
engraving,  removing  it  occasionally  for  air,  &c.  Where  very  fine  seeds  are  sown  in  pots,  the 
watering,  unless  carefully  done,  generally  results  in  great  injury.  A  wet  paper  placed  over  the 
top  of  the  pot  will  afford  moisture  enough  for  the  germination  of  fine  seeds.  If  pots  are  used 
it  is  well  to  sink  them  to  the  rim  in  a  box  of  moss,  or  something  of  the  kind,  that  will  hold 
moisture,  and  prevent  the  diying  of  the  earth  in  the  pots.  A  shallow  box  may  be  used  to 
advantage,  sowing  the  seed  carefully  in  narrow  drills. 

When  these  conveniences  are  not  to  be  had,  make  a  bed  of  light,  mellow  soil,  in  a  sheltered 
situation  in  the  garden;  and  as  soon  as  the  weather  becomes  settled,  and  the  ground  warm,  sow 
the  seeds,  covering  them  with  a  little  fine  earth,  and  if  very 
small  sift  it  upon  them.  Some  one  has  given  as  a  rule  that 
seeds  should  be  covered  twice  the  depth  of  their  own  diameter; 
that  is,  that  a  seed  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  through  should  be 
covered  one-eighth  of  an  inch.  Perhaps  that  is  as  near  correct 
as  any  general  rule  can  be.  If  the  weather  should  prove  dry 
after  sowing,  it  would  be  well  to  cover  the  beds  of  very  small 
seeds  with  damp  moss,  or  what  is  better,  with  evergreen  boughs  or  boards,  or  something  that 
will  afford  partial  protection  from  the  sun  and  wind.  •  A  very  good  plan  is  to  nail  lath  to  a  frame, 
as  shown  in  the  engraving,  leaving  the  open  spaces  about  as  wide  as  the  lath.  Seeds  do  not 
require  light  for  their  germination,  and  will  grow  quite  as  well  in  the  dark  as  the  light  until 
they  are  above  ground.  Bell-glasses  are  convenient  both  for  in-doors  or  garden  use,  only  care 
must  be  given  to  afford  plenty  of  air,  especially  on  bright  days,  and  shading  may  be  necessary. 
An  inverted  flower  pot  answers  almost  as  good  a  purpose,  but  when  the  young  plants  are  up 
they  will  need  light,  which  can  be  afforded  for  a  few  days,  and  until  the  plants  are  large,  by 
•elevating  the  pot,  as  shown  in  the  engraving.  Light  and  air  should  be  furnished  as  soon  as  the 
plants  are  above  ground,  or  they  will  become  weak  and  pale.  Of  course,  it  is  designed  that 

9 


SEEDS   IN   A   BOX. 


plants  from  the  hot-bed,  cold-frame  and  seed-bed  shall  be  transplanted  to  the  border  or  beds  where 
they  are  to  flower,  and  these  helps  are  intended  mainly  for  Tender  and  Half-Hardy  Annuals, 
described  in  an  article  on  the  Classification  of  Flowers,  on  another  page.  The  Hardy  Annuals 
may  be  sown  where  they  are  to  flower,  though,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  varieties  difficult  to 
transplant,  it  is  best  to  sow  all  in  a  seed-bed. 

All  seeds  of  hardy  and  half-hardy  Annuals,  and  Perennials,  and,  in  fact,  nearly  all  flower 
seeds,  can  be  sown  in  the  South  in  the  autumn.  The  plants  are  thus  enabled  to  make  vigorous 
growth  in  the  early  spring,  and  become  well  matured  before  the  heat  of  summer.  The  Perennials 
should  be  sown  so  early  as  to  make  a  fair  growth  before  winter  sets  in.  Then  they  will  flower 
the  next  summer.  The  Hardy  Annuals  generally  do  best  sown  rather  late,  so  that  the  seed  will 
remain  in  the  ground  and  be  ready  to  start  at  the  first  approach  of  spring. 

TRANSPLANTING. 

All  the  operations  of  the  garden  should  be  done  with  neatness  :  no  crooked,  irregular  rows 
are  admissible.  The  engraving  shows  how  easily  lines  are  marked  in  a  bed  with  a  rod  or  ruler. 
After  plants  in  the  seed-beds  have  obtained  their  second  leaves  and  made  an  inch  or  two  cf 
growth,  they  should  be  removed  to  the  garden  beds  or  border.  This  should  be  done  on  a  dull, 
showery  day,  if  possible,  if  not,  the  plants  may  require  shading  after  removal  until  they  become 
established.  In  transplanting  in  dry  weather,  always  give  the  plants  as  they  stand  in  the  seed- 
bed a  good  soaking  with  water,  and  also  the  soil 
to  which  they  are  to  be  removed,  an  hour  or  so 
before  removal.  In  removing,  disturb  the  roots 
as  little  as  possible.  If  the  plants  are  not  too 
thick,  there  is  no  need  of  injuring  the  roots  ;  and 
in  sowing,  it  is  well  to  have  this  in  view,  and 
sow  evenly  and  thinly.  As  soon  as  the  young 
plants  come  up,  if  too  thick,  a  portion  should  be 
removed.  A  few  plants,  with  long  tap-roots, 
will  not  bear  removal  well.  The  Larkspurs  are 
difficult :  and  these  and  the  Poppies,  and  plants 

MARKING  FOR  PLANTING.  with  like  roots,  should  be  sown  where  they  are 

to  flower.  Still,  there  are  few  plants  but  can  be  removed  when  young,  with  proper  care.  Sweet 
Peas,  Candytuft,  and  a  few  flowers  of  similar  character,  that  do  best  if  sown  as  early  as  the 
ground  can  be  got  ready,  should  always  be  sown  where  they  are  to  flower. 

DISAPPOINTED  CULTIVATORS. 

Many  years  of  experience  and  careful  estimates  have  convinced  me  that  while  nearly  all 
of  my  customers  succeed  in  growing  excellent  flowers  from  the  seeds  they  receive,  and  are 
not  only  satisfied,  but  enthusiastic  over  the  results,  some  two  or  three  per  cent,  totally  fail, 
or  fail  to  such  an  extent  as  to  feel  quite  dissatisfied  with  the  expenditure  and  labor  of  the 
season.  To  this  small  number  I  cannot  give  much  space,  but  will  make  a  few  remarks  that  may 
be  profitable,  and  prevent  disappointment  in  the  future. 
Some  are  disappointed  because  flowers  do  not  prove 
what  they  expected.  It  should  be  remembered  that  I 
do  not  agree  that  flowers  shall  meet  the  expectations  of-; 
any  person.  The  first  thing  is  to  ascertain  what  it  is 
right  to  expect.  Not  the  notion  of  any  person,  but  the 
descriptions  I  have  given  must  be  the  standard.  The 
descriptions  and  drawings  are  not  exaggerated,  yet  they 
represent  plants  and  flowers  that  have  been  well  grown : 

neglected,  half-starved  plants  will  present  a  very  different  _  .. 

r  r  7  Full     length    portrait     of    some     unhappy 

appearance.  Any  specimen  of  the  animal  as  well  as  the  woman-s  husband.  The  man  who  thinks 
vegetable  kingdom  will  become  dwarfed  and  deformed,  and  it  nonsense  for  wife  and  girls  to  make 
lose  every  trace  of  beauty  by  ill-treatment  and  neglect,  flowerbeds. 

Then  the  descriptions  must  be  well  understood.  If  I  call  some  little,  delicate  flower,  like  a 
Lobelia,  a  fine  variety,  you  have  a  right  to  expect  it  to  be  a  fine  Lobelia  ;  but  have  no  right  to 
expect  it  to  be  as  large,  fine  and  showy  as  an  Aster,  a  Ten-Weeks'  Stock,  or  a  Zinnia,  or  any 

10 


other  of  our  large,  brilliant  flowers.  It  is  fine  in  its  place,  but  not  fine  for  a  display  in  the 
garden.  A  pen-knife  is  good  for  the  purpose  for  which  it  was  designed,  but  it  is  not  exactly 
fitted  for  wood-chopping.  I  advertise  double  Zinnias,  double  Stocks,  &c.;  but  you  have  no  right 
to  complain  and  ihink  you  are  cheated  if  one-fourth  should  come  single,  but  should  pull  up  the 

single  ones  as  fast  as  they  show  their  character,  and  enjoy 
the  good  instead  of  mourning  over  the  bad.  Many  varie- 
ties of  double  flowers  do  not  give  seed,  so  we  have  to 
obtain  double  seed  by  fertilizing  the  single  flowers  with  the 
pollen  of  the  double,  and  by  other  slow  and  difficult  pro- 
cesses known  to  the  experienced  seed-grower.  These 
operations  are  usually  only  partially  successful,  and,  as  a 
necessary  consequence,  some  of  the  seed  will  give  single 
flowers ;  and  yet  intelligent  men,  and  correspondents  of  the 
press,  and  officers  of  Agricultural  societies,  and  others  who 
ought  to  know  better,  often  scold,  and  write  complainingly 
because  seed  purchased  as  double  produced  single  flowers. 
Again,  I  advertise  separate  colors  of  Phlox  Drummondii, 
woman'  h  Dianthus,  Asters,  &c.  Occasionally,  with  some  of  these, 

This,  with  some 


Portrait   of   the    fortunate 

band,  who  makes  wife  and  children  happy    you   will   find  a  little   mixture   of  color. 


and  home  pleasant. 


things,  can  not  be  avoided,  even  with  the   greatest  care. 


se  flower  seeds  never  come  up 
scratched  UP- 


There  always  has  been,  and  always  will  be,  a  little  uncertainty  in  growing  flowers  from  seed. 

They  are  prone  to  mix  and  "sport."      If  it  were  not  for  this  disposition,  we  could  never  obtain 

new  varieties.      When  plants  or  trees  are  grown  from  cuttings,  or  are  produced  by  budding  or 

grafting,    all    mixture    is    the    result    of  carelessness, 

accident  or  fraud.      This  is  not  the  case  with  plants 

produced  from  seed.     While  many  varieties  will  come 

almost  or  quite  true  from  seed,  with  good  care,  others 

are  far  less  reliable  in  this  respect.      All  I  can  prom- 

ise is  that  I  have  done  all  that  human  care  and  skill 

can  do  to  produce  distinct  colors,  and  when  there  is 

very  much  uncertainty  in  regard  to  color  I  advertise 

them  only  as  "mixed  colors."       For   this   reason  I 

advertise  only  "mixed  colors"  of  many  varieties. 
Occasionally  we  hear  complaint  that  seeds  do  not 

grow  —  perhaps  one  or  two  varieties  failed  out  of  a 

hundred,   and   the  cultivator  is   like   the   shepherd   in      The  woman 

the  Scriptures,  who  left  the  ninety-nine  in  the  wilder-       unless  they 

ness  and  went  in  search  of  the  lost  one.      This  was  well  for  the  shepherd  and  the  sheep,  but  is 

not  a  good  plan  for  florists  and  flower  seeds.       If  you  have  ten  or  twenty  varieties,  and  all 

grow  nicely  but  one  or  two,  just  enjoy  the  success,  instead  of  making  yourself  miserable  over 

failures.  The  best  and  most  skillful  gardeners  will 
fail  occasionally,  and  neither  the  seed  nor  the  gar- 
dener be  very  much  to  blame.  Every  professional 
gardener  knows  this.  There  is  a  wonder  —  a  mys- 
tery —  in  vegetable  as  well  as  in  animal  life.  Our 
friends  fail,  droop  and  die  —  our  little  ones  pass  away 
iust  as  they  are  taking  deep  root  in  our  hearts.  We 
feel  the  deathly  pangs,  but  cannot  save.  But  the 
variety  that  failed  was  the  one  of  all  you  most 
desired.  Of  course,  what  we  cannot  have  we  always 
want  the  most.  The  fish  that  escapes  from  the  hook 
is  always  the  largest. 
The  woman  whose  flower  seeds  all  come  up.  But,  if  you  fail  to  any  great  extent,  make  up  your 

mind  there  is  trouble  somewhere  —  some  mismanagement  —  and  resolve  to  find  it  out,  if  possi- 

ble.      Don't  jump  at  the  conclusion  that  the  seed  was  bad,  because  it  is  not  true,  and  thousands 

will  praise  the  seed  you  condemn  as  bad.     By  concluding  that  you  are  all  right  and  the  seed  all 

'  11 


wrong,  you  will  not  only  lose  the  seed,  but  the  benefit  of  experience.  It  will  not  help  the 
matter  to  say  that  seeds  of  your  own  growing  came  up  in  the  same  beds,  unless  you  had  just  the 
same  varieties.  As  a  general  rule,  the  finer  the  varieties  of  flowers  the  less  vitality  in  the  seeds. 
One  may  grow  almost  anywhere  and  anyhow,  another  require  the  most  favorable  circumstances 
for  its  germination.  This  is  particularly  the  case  with  most  double  flowers,  even  of  the  same 
species  or  variety.  A  single  Aster  will  give  more  seed  than  a  hundred  of  double,  and  the  seed 
will  be  larger,  and  produce  earlier,  stronger  plants,  and  will  grow  under  unfavorable  circum- 
stances, where  the  seed  from  the  double  flower  would  decay.  Hence,  if  there  happen  to  be 
three  seeds  from  a  single  plant  in  a  package,  and  all  should  grow,  these  three  plants  would  produce 
flowers  before  any  others,  and  those  not  acquainted  with  the  facts  would  say  at  once,  "  all  my 
Asters  are  going  to  be  single."  If,  through  a  bad  season  or  soil,  all  the  Aster  seed  from  the 
double  flowers  had  died,  and  only  the  more  robust  from  the  single  flower  lived,  of  course,  the 
complaint  is,  "  I  had  only  three  plants  from  a  package  of  seeds,  and  that  was  plenty,  for  they 
were  very  poor  flowers."  A  beautiful  flower  is  often  obtained  at  the  sacrifice  of  the  vigor,  and 
not  unfrequently  the  constitution,  of  the  plant.  After  laboring  long  and  anxiously  to  secure 
some  desired  improvement,  it  is  not  uncommon,  just  as  success  seemed  about  to  crown  our 
labors,  to  find  all  our  hopes  blasted  on  account  of  some  defect  in  the  plant  —  a  grand  flower 
secured  and  a  healthful  plant  ruined. 


THE    LAWN    AND    GARDEN. 


WALK   STAKED   OUT. 


Man  may  be  refined  and  happy  without  a  garden ;  he  may  even  have  a  home,  I  suppose, 
without  a  tree,  or  shrub,  or  flower;  yet,  when  the  Creator  wished  to  prepare  a  proper  home  for 
man,  pure  in  all  his  tastes  and  made  in  His  own  likeness,  He  planted  a  garden  and  placed  this 
noblest  specimen  of  creative  power  in  it  to  dress  and  to  keep  it.  A  few  suggestions  on  the 
Improving  of  Grounds  and  the  Adornment  of  Rural  Homes  may  be  useful,  and  prevent  a  great 
many  expensive  and  troublesome  mistakes. 

MAKING   LAWNS  AND  WALKS. 

In  the  first  place,  the  space  in  front  of  the  house,  and  generally  the  sides  exposed  to  view 

from  the  street,  should  be  in  grass.  No  arrangement 
of  beds,  or  borders  of  box,  or  anything  else,  will 
look  so  neat  and  tasteful  as  a  well  kept  piece  of 
lawn.  It  can  also  be  kept  in  better  order  at  less  cost 
than  in  any  other  way.  Mixed  beds  of  flowers  or  of 
shrubbery  in  the  most  conspicuous  part  of  the  garden 
are  always  unsatisfactory.  Get  a  good  plat  of  grass, 
and  dry,  neat  walks,  and  all  other  things  will  soon 
follow  with  but  little  trouble. 
The  very  first  thing  needed  in  improving  ground  is  to  obtain  good  drainage.  Have  good 
drains  made  to  carry  off  all  waste  water  from  the  house  and  surplus  water  from  the  soil.  These 
can  be  made  of  stone,  laid  in  any  way  that  will  leave  an  open  and  secure  space  for  the  water  to 
pass  through,  though  where  drain  tile  can  be  obtained  they  are  as  good  as  anything  and 
usually  cheaper.  The  drains  should  be  from  two  to  four  feet  deep.  Have  the  work  well 
done,  for  this  is  the  foundation  of  all  improvement,  and 
the  correction  of  any  failure  is  made  only  with  a  good  deal 
of  trouble  and  expense.  This  secures  a  dry  soil  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year,  and  a  healthy  growth  of  plants  or  trees. 

The  next  thing  is  to  prepare  the  soil  and  make  the 
walks.  Make  no  more  roads  than  are  absolutely  neces- 
sary, as  many  walks  divide  the  lawn  and  greatly  disfigure 
it.  Of  course,  there  must  be  a  bold  walk  to  the  front  door, 
and  one  passing  from  this  to  the  rear  of  the  house,  and  in 
general  no  more  will  be  necessary.  These  must  be  PLANTING  FOR  CURVED  WALKS. 

made  in  the   most   convenient  places  —  in  those  one  would  naturally  take  in  going  from  one 
place  to  another.     The  curved  line  is  the  line  of  beauty,  yet  we  often  see  attempts  at  curved 

12 


walks  where  a  straight  one  would  be  much  better.  Every  curve  should  be  a  sensible  one ;  that 
is,  have  a  reason  for  its  course ;  therefore  arrange  your  planting  so  as  to  make  an  apparent 
necessity  for  every  turn.  The  idea  is  shown  in  the  little  sketch  accompanying,  where  the  walks 
curve  to  accommodate  the  trees. 

If  the  ground  to  be  improved  is  only  a  small  lot,  it  can  be  done  best  by  the  spade,  and  it  is 

not  well  to  endeavor  to  do  it  with  the  plow.  In 
that  case,  mark  out  the  walks  first.  Do  this  by 
setting  up  little  sticks  on  the  line  you  design  for 
the  road,  as  shown  in  the  engraving,  changing 
them  until  you  get  just  the  curve  that  seems  graceful 
'and  pleasant  to  the  eye.  Put  a  row  of  sticks  on 
each  side  of  the  road,  measuring  carefully  so  as  to 
•  get  the  width  uniform.  Another  plan  for  securing 
the  desired  curve  to  walks  is  the  use  of  a  stout  line. 
Next,  remove  the  earth  from  the  walk  to  about  the  depth 
The  walks,  of  course,  have  somewhat 


LOCATING    WALK    WITH    LINE. 


The  idea  is  shown  in  the  engraving. 

of  eighteen  inches,  using  it  to  fill  up  any  low  places. 

the  appearance  of  ditches.      The  operator  is  now  prepared  to  pulverize  the  soil  with  the  spade. 

Have  it  done  thoroughly,  sending  the  spade  well  down,   and  completely  inverting  the  soil,  but 

leaving  about  six  inches  on  each  side  of  the  walk  undisturbed  for  the  present,  so  as  not  to  break 

the  line  of  the  road.     All  stones  found  in  digging  should  be  thrown  into  the  roads,  and  often 

sufficient  will  be  obtained  to  fill  within  six  or  eight  inches  of  the  surface ;  if  not,  enough  can  be 

procured  usually  without  much  difficulty.     The  stone  cutter's  yards  and  the  stone  piles  in  the  roads 

and  fields  generally  furnish  abundant  material.       When  the  walks  are  filled  with  this  rough 

material  to  within  six  inches  of  the  surface  of  the  soil,  the  ground  being  raked  off  nice  and 

smooth,  dig  the  six  inches  left  undug  on  the  edges  of  the  walks,  being  careful  to  keep  the  edges 

true  and  as  originally  staked  out,  and  then  set  a  turf  about  six  inches  wide  for  a  border  to  the 

walk,  as  shown  in  the  engraving,  keeping  the  turf  as 

low   as   the  level   of  the   adjoining  soil,    or  a    little 

lower,  and  to  do  this,  remove  two  or  three  inches  of  , 

the  soil  where   the   turf  is  to  set,   according   to   its 

thickness. 

A  good  deal  of  this  rough  work  can  be  done  in 
the  autumn,  so  as  to  leave  only  the  finishing  up  in 

the  spring ;  but  if  commenced  in  the  spring,  it  should  WALKS  WITH  TURF  EDGING. 

be  hurried  up  so  as  to  get  the  grass  sown  as  early  as  possible,  for  grass  seed  will  not  start  well 
unless  it  has  the  benefit  of  spring  showers.  Lawn  Grass  sown  about  the  first  of  September, 
so  as  to  have  the  benefit  of  autumn  rains,  will  usually  make  a  fine  growth  before  frost,  and  be  in 
excellent  condition  in  the  early  spring,  almost  appearing  like  an  old  lawn  by  July.  All  being 
done  as  previously  advised,  sow  the  grass  seed  on  the  well  prepared  surface,  raking  it  in,  and  if 
pretty  dry,  it  is  well  to  roll  the  soil  after  sowing.  Sow  Blue  Grass,  or  a  preparation  of  the  most 
desirable  grasses  for  lawns,  sold  as  Lawn  Grass,  at  the  rate  of  four  bushels  to  the  acre.  In  our 
Lawn  Grass  we  always  put  a  little  Sweet  Vernal  Grass,  on  account  of  its  delightful  fragrance. 
If  you  use  Blue  Grass,  get  a  little  Venial  and  use  with  it,  a  pound  or  two  to  the  acre.  Most 

persons  also  like  a  pound  of  White  Clover  to  the 
i  acre.      If  the  grass  is  sown  early  in  the  spring  and 
[the  weather  is  at  all  favorable,   by  the  first  of  July 
the    lawn  will    look    pretty   green,    and  from   the 
middle  to  the  last  of  July  i$ill  need  cutting,  and 
after  that  must  be  cut  as  often  as  the   little  lawn 


SECTION   OF    WALK. 


mower  can  get  a  bite.  These  lawn  mowers  are  a  real  blessing,  for  not  one  in  ten  thousand 
can  cut  a  lawn  properly  with  a  scythe,  and  therefore  our  lawns,  before  the  introduction  of 
mowers,  always  looked  wretched. 

It  will  be  strange  if  a  great  army  of  weeds  do  not  appear  with  the  grass,  but  do  not  take  it  for 
granted  that  these  weeds  came  from  the  grass  seed  sown,  because  if  you  had  not  sown  any  grass 
the  weeds  would  have  been  just  as  abundant.  The  farmer  who  finds  the  weeds  among  his  corn 

13 


PARK     SCENERY. 


and  potatoes  never  imagines  that  he  planted  them  with  the  seed.  As  soon  as  the  grass  and  weeds 
get  high  enough  to  be  cut  with  a  scythe  or  lawn  mower,  cut  close  and  evenly,  and  repeat  this 
as  often  as  possible,  and  the  weeds  will  gradually  disappear,  but  if  allowed  to  grow  they  will 
soon  smother  the  grass  and  ruin  the  lawn.  A  few  perennial  weeds,  like  docks,  thistles  and 


HOME   LAWN. 

dandelions  may  be  removed  by  cutting  the  roots  as  far  down  as  possible  with  some  narrow, 
sharp  implement.  Two  or  three  such  cuttings  will  generally  destroy  them,  but  a  pinch  of  salt 
after  cutting  will  make  the  work  sure. 

After   sowing  the    grass,    finish   the    walks  by    covering  the  rough   stones    with  five  or  six 
inches  of  gravel,   as  clean  as  can  be  procured.       It  is  best  to  leave  the  finishing  of  the  walks 

14 


until  the  last,  because,  even  after  sowing  the  grass  seed,  at  raking  it  in,  a  quantity  of  stones  will  be 
gathered,  and  you  will  need  a  place  to  put  them  and  the  walk  will  need  the  stones.  A  section 
of  the  road  when 
done  will  appear  as 
shown  in  the  engrav- 
ing, and  it  will  be  al- 
ways dry  and  free 
from  weeds  and  grass. 
If  the  earth  should 
wash  from  the  lawn 
and  cause  weeds  to 
start,  sow  salt  along 
the  edges  and  you 
will  see  no  weeds  for 
a  season. 

In  very  small  places 
it  would,  perhaps,  be 
as  cheap  to  sod  the 
whole,  instead  of  sow- 
inggrassseed.  Where 
this  is  desirable,  good 

turf  can  be  procured  from  the  roadside  or  pasture,  and  it  should  be  well  and  neatly  laid. 
In  large  places  the  plow  can  be  used  instead  of  the  spade,  and  with  great  economy  of  labor. 
In  that  case  the  whole  lot  should  be  well  plowed  and  dragged  before  the  walks  are  staked 
out.  After  this,  stake  the  walks  and  remove  the  earth  the  necessary  depth,  using  it  to  level  off 
'  the  low  places.  There  will  always  be  a  good  deal  of  work  for  the  spade  and  rake. 

PLANTING   AND   ORNAMENTING  THE   LAWN. 

Two  great  errors  are  usually  made,  both  by  gardeners  and  amateurs  ;  one  destroying  the  lawn 
by  cutting  it  up  with  unnecessary  walks  and  flower  beds,  the  other  producing  the  same  result  by 
almost  literally  covering  it  with  trees  and  shrubbery.  Grass  cannot  grow  well  among  the  roots 
and  under  the  shadow  of  trees  and  shrubs,  and  no  lawn  can  look  well  cut  up  in  sections  by 
numerous  roads.  Most  of  the  little  lawns  we  see  in  this  country  are  almost  entirely  destroyed  by 


ENGLISH    PARK,    QUEEN   VICTf 


1SBORNE    HC 


FORMS   OF   BEDS. 

one  or  both  of  these  causes.  The  main  part  of  the  lawn  should  be  left  unbroken  by  any  tree  or 
shrub,  as  a  general  rule,  with  only  an  occasional  fine  specimen,  like  a  Purple  Beech,  or  Magnolia, 
or  cut-leaved  Birch.  The  shrubbery  should  be  in  clumps  or  groups,  in  proper  places,  and  so 
thick  as  to  cover  all  the  ground.  The  soil  under  them  should  be  kept  cultivated  and  clean  like  a 
flower  bed.  Trees  in  appropriate  places  for  shade  and  beauty,  are,  of  course,  desirable ;  but 
plant  for  the  future,  not  for  the  present,  and  always  have  in  view  the  size  and  form  and  habits  of 
the  trees  when  full  grown,  and  not  their  present  small  size,  and,  perhaps,  delicate  form. 

Tree   planting   must  be  governed  by  the    extent   of  the 
grounds.       In   a   lawn    em- 
bracing many  acres,   forest 
trees,  or  trees  of  large  size, 
may  be  admitted;  and  then 

it  will  partake  somewhat   of  RIBBON  BED. 

the  character  of  European  parks,  the  nature  of  which  we  have  endeavored  to  show  in  the  engraving. 
These  are  not  given  the  same  care  and  expense  as  small  lawns;  indeed,  the  grass  is  often 
kept  short  by  sheep,  and  seldom  mown.  That  portion  of  the  lawn  of  such  parks  immediately 

15 


1HH150N    P.KI) 


around  the  house,  however,  is  always  planted  with  the 
most  beautiful  trees  and  kept  in  the  best  possible  condition, 
just  in  the  manner  necessary  for  small  lawns,  which  are 
most  common  in  this  country.     We  have  endeavored  to 
illustrate  these  two  styles  by  the  aid  of  engravings,  and  hope  to  have 
made  the  subject  plain. 

The  great  difficulty  with  American  gardens  is  that  they  are  too  large, 
and  not  sufficiently  cared  for.  If  we  gave  the  same  amount  of  labor  on  a 
quarter  of  an  acre  that  we  now  expend  on  an  acre,  the  result  would  be  much 
more  satisfactory.  No  one  should  have  more  ground  in  garden  than  he 
can  keep  in  the  very  highest  state  of  cultivation.  It  is  this  kind  of 
excellence  that  affords  pleasure,  while  failure  or  partial  success  is  a  source  of 
pain.  It  is  not  only  a  fault  to  cultivate  too  much  ground,  but  even  too  many  flowers.  Some 
seem  anxious  to  obtain  and  grow  everything.  This  is  not  best,  especially  where  there  is  not  a 
good  deal  of  time  and  money  to  be  devoted  to  the  work.  A  choice  selection  is  best,  and  I  like 
every  cultivator  of  flowers  to  have  a  pet  or  hobby.  Take,  for  instance,  the  Pansy,  and  make  it  a 
pet.  Obtain  the  choicest  seed,  and  give  the  plants  the  best  of  care,  and  you  will  see  to  what 
wonderful  perfection  it  can  be  grown.  In  a  few  years  you  will  tire,  perhaps,  of  this.  Then 
adopt  the  Balsam,  or  Stock,  or  Aster.  Always  have  something  choice  —  something  grown  better 
than  any  one  else  is  growing  it — something  you  have  reason  to  be  proud  of.  It  will  astonish  you 
to  see  how  flowers  thrive  under  such  petting,  and  what  a  wonderful  exhibition  they  make  of 
their  gratitude. 

Some  persons  may  think  from  what  we  have  said  in  favor  of  grass  in  front  of  the  house  in 
preference  to  beds  of  flowers,  that  we  are  no  friend  to  these  beautiful  treasures — these  delightful 
children  of  the  field  and  garden,  who  speak  to  us  in  every  fragrant  breath  and  lovely  tint  and 
graceful  form,  of  Him  who  spake  from  naught  this  matchless  beauty.  We  only  wish  them  to  be 
treated  in  a  proper  manner.  In  the  center  of  the  lawn,  especially  if  opposite  a  window,  it  is  well 
to  make  a  round  or  oval  bed,  and  on  the  border  or  near  the  edges  of  the  lawn,  beds  of  various 
simple  forms.  A  few  plans  for  these  we  have  given. 

16 


BULB     GARDEN. 


The^e  beds  should  be  filled  with  flowers  that  will  keep  in  bloom  during  the  whole  season, 
and  it  is  best  generally  to  have  but  one  kind  in  a  bed.  Phlox  Drummondii,  Verbena,  Portulaca, 
and  the  scarlet  Geraniums,  are  well  adapted  for  this  purpose,  and  occasionally  it  is  well  to 
introduce  the  ribbon  style.  The  plan  is  to  set  plants  of  the  same  height  and  color  in  a  row, 
several  rows  forming  the  bed,  and  giving  it  the  appearance  of  the  stripes  in  ribbons,  as  shown 
in  the  engravings  p.  15.  To  make  a  bed  of  this  kind  select  flowers  of  similar  height  and 
habit.  Of  course,  if  one  row  loses  its  flowers  the  effect  is  spoiled.  If  a  circular  bed  is  made, 
the  rows  toward  the  center  may  be  taller  than  the  outside  rows.  A  very  cheap  and  pretty 
ribbon  bed  can  be  made  by  using  the  different  colors  of  the  same  flower,  like  Phlox  Drum- 
mondii, and  for  a  beginner  we  know  of  no  flower  as  good.  These  beds,  it  must  be  remembered, 
are  for  the  adornment  of  the  grounds,  and  they  furnish  no  flowers  for  the  house — no  presents  for 
friends,  no  bouquet  for  the  dining  room,  or  for  schools  or  churches,  or  the  sick  room.  These  we 
must  have.  So,  just  back  of  the  lawn,  make  generous  beds  of  flowers' that  you  can  cut  freely — 
Asters,  Balsams,  Zinnias,  Stocks,  Mignonette,  Sweet  Peas,  &c.  In  these  beds  you  can  also 
grow  the  Everlasting  Flowers  for  winter  use,  and  the  plants  designed  for  winter  flowering  in  the 
house.  It  is  best  to  make  such  beds  oblong,  about  four  or  five  feet  in  width,  so  that  one  can 
reach  half  way  across,  with  alleys  or  paths  between. 

THE   BULB   AND    PERENNIAL  GROUNDS. 

There  is  also  a  sameness  about  lawn  beds  that  in  time  becomes  tiresome.  They  are  beautiful, 
but  it  is  unchanging  beauty ;  a  bed  of  beauty,  but  no  plant  has  character  or  beauty  of  its  own, 
each  one  contributing  its  share,  and  sacrificing  itself,  for  the  general  good.  Often,  a  little  tired, 
we  turn  from  the  well  kept  lawn,  with  its  masses  of  bright  colors,  to  the  beds  of  Perennials  and 
the  Bulb  Garden,  and  there  we  find  each  plant  in  its  own  character,  standing  alone,  and  doing 
its  best  to  secure  our  admiration.  Every  day  there  seems  to  be  a  new  development :  some  plant 
that  we  obtained  long  ago,  and  for  whose  blossoms  we  have  been  waiting  and  watching,  shows 
buds,  and  in  a  day  or  two  flowers  ;  and  another,  almost  forgotten,  to  our  surprise  we  find  in 

17 


SUMMER-HOUSE   GARDEN   SCENE. 

flower.  In  our  Perennial  Beds  we  have  many  old  friends,  the  Hollyhock,  the  Sweet  William, 
the  Canterbury  Bell,  and  a  host  of  others,  while  the  Bulb  Garden  is  made  glorious  by  the  Lilies, 
Poeonies,  Gladioli  and  Dahlias,  and  a  score  of  elegant  flowers  that  have  been  known  and  loved 
for  ages.  The  flowers  of  this  class  do  not  keep  in  bloom  a  long  time,  and  therefore  are  not  suited 
for  the  lawn,  where  a  continuous  show  of  flowers  is  absolutely  necessary ;  but  in  a  position  a 
little  retired,  like  the  border  of  the  lawn,  or  in  its  rear,  nothing  can  be  more  interesting,  more 
beautiful,  or  more  instructive. 

GARDEN    ADORNMENTS. 

There  are  a  good  many  things  that  may  be  called  garden  adornments,  or  garden  furniture, 
some  of  them  expensive,  while  others  are  obtained  with  the  exercise  of  a  little  skill  and  taste. 

A  neat  Conservatory  gives  dignity  and  somewhat  of  an 
aristocratic  air  to  any  garden,  if  in  good  condition,  or 
what  gardeners  call,  "kept  up;"  otherwise  it  gives 
the  whole  an  air  of  shabby  gentility  that  is  painful  to 
behold.  Next  to  the  Conservatory,  we  may  class  the 
Summer-house,  and  this  may  cost  but  little ;  indeed, 
more  depends  upon  the  situation,  tastefulness  of  design, 
and  neatness  of  construction,  than  size  and  cost. 

Of  all  the  adornments  of  the  lawn,  nothing  is 
more  effective  than  a  well  filled  and  well  kept  vase. 
Of  course  it  is  better  to  have  one  of  a  graceful  form  ; 
but  almost  anything  will  look  Well  if  adorned  with 
healthy,  and  particularly,  drooping  plants.  It  is  not  of 
much  importance  what  the  plants  are  if  they  are  only 
vigorous.  All  the  ornamental-leaved  plants  are  appro- 
priate for  the  top  or  center  of  the  vase,  while  a  few 
drooping  plants  should  be  placed  near  the  edges  and 
allowed  to  droop  at  least  halfway  to  the  ground.  For 
this  purpose  the  Verbena  or  the  Petunia  will  answer ; 
indeed,  fewer  plants  appear  better  than  a  good  strong 
Petunia.  The  evaporation  from  vases  is  very  gr§at, 
much  more  than  is  generally  supposed,  as  every  side  is 
VASE  WELL  CARED  FOR.  exposed  to  air  and  sun,  and  they  must  receive  a 

copious  supply  of  water  every  evening  to  keep  the  plants  in  good  condition. 

18 


ROCKERY    TO    SCREEN    AN    ABJUTT    BANK. 

Another. very  pretty  ornament  for  the  garden  is  the  Rockery,  made  of  rough  stones,  taste- 
fully laid  up,  with  earth  sufficient  for  the  growth  of  plants  suitable  for  this  work.  Low  growing 
plants  with  succulent  and  ornamental  foliage  are  appropriate  to  the  rockery  —  Portulaca  is 
admirable.  I  would  like  my  readers  who  have  had  no  experience  in  this  kind  of  garden 
ornamentation  to  try  a  specimen  in  some  retired  quarter  of  the  garden,  so  that  if  it  proves  a 

failure  no  harm  will  be  done.  There  is  nothing 
more  interesting  than  a  good  rockery,  and 
nothing  more  unsightly  than  a  poor  one.  To 
be  good  it  must  be  somewhat  natural  in  appear- 
ance and  have  an  appropriate  position,  and  be 
furnished  with  suitable  and  healthy  plants.  A 
pile  of  stones  thrown  together  in  the  center  of 
of  a  lawn  looks  bad  enough,  and  it  would  be 
hardly  possible  to  remedy  the  evil  of  location 
by  any  skill  in  planting ;  but  a  little  rockery  in 
some  retired  corner  gives  variety  and  beauty  to 
the  garden  scene. 

Few  things  pleased  us  more  when  in  Europe 

j€58M£tJL  Pif  IpF  than  the  skill   exhibited  in  giving  an   air  of 

2aMB»MM™E  — -  rural  taste  to  small  city  lots,  many  of  them  so 

very  small  that  few  Americans  would  be 
willing  to  attempt  ornamental  gardening  on  so 

C-B-^jg^g  -1 —         «  diminutive  a  scale.     And  yet,  if  we  can  make 

^2ZwHf OKKfc^SltiAkSr^l,  |bi — la   parlor    or    sitting-room    beautiful    in    winter 

with  a  few  plants,  why  can  we  not  make  a 
small  paradise  of  a  little  twenty-foot-square 
"  front  yard?"  Many  of  the  yards  we  refer  to 
were  not  more  than  twenty  feet  in  width,  and 
yet  remarkable  as  specimens  of  taste.  Some 
of  these  little  gardens  were  attached  to  houses 
in  rows  ;  others  belonged  to  what  are  known 
as  semi-detached  cottages  —  that  is,  two  only 
joined  together. 

We  give  a  specimen  of  one  of  these  little 
front  gardens,  or,  as  they  are  sometimes  called, 
BALCONY  GARDEN.  entrance  courts.      The  lots  are  sometimes  so 

narrow  that  the  raised  bed  is  made  several  feet  from  the  center  to  allow  of  free  passage  on  one 
side.  The  English  people  seem  to  love  seclusion,  and  so  the  front  yard  is  usually  bounded  by  a 
wall  on  every  side,  as  we  have,  in  a  measure,  shown  in  the  engraving,  and  would  be  fearfully 
unsightly  but  for  the  fact  that  these  walls  are  ornamented,  and  sometimes  concealed  with  climbers 
and  other  beautiful  plants.  The  ornamental  border  that  surrounds  the  central  bed  is  usually 

19 


rich,  and  made  to  resemble  stone. 


The  border  for  the  beds  on  the  -ides  is  generally  common 

1 ._  „  burnt  clay  tiles, 

of  neat  designs. 
Occasionally  a 
vase  is  used 
for  the  center ; 
and  we  have 
seen  a  little 
rockery  occupy 
I  the  place,  but  it 
is  not  the  place 
for  a  rockery. 
The  space  not 
occupied  by 
beds  is  covered 
with  flagging  or 
gravel.  Some- 
times the  side 
walls,  and  even 
I-MKANCK  COURT.  the  front  garden 

wall  furnish  support  for  rockeries,  which  then  take  the  place  of  the  borders  shown  in  the  engraving. 

We  introduce  this  illustration  for  the  encouragement  of  those  dwellers  in  our  cities  and  villages 

who  have  not  yet  learned  how  much  can  be  made  of  little. 

BALCONY   GARDENS. 

Those  who  have  noticed  the  advance  of  rural  taste  in  America  during  the  past  thirty  years- 
have   seen    developments    unequaled   in    any 

country,  in  any  age  of  the  world.     Beautiful 

orchards  and  lawns,  and  gardens,   and  tasteful 

houses  abound,  where,  a  few  years  ago,  we  saw 

the   crooked  rail  fence,  the  trees  and  stumps 

and  small  log  cabins.  We  scarcely  pass  through 

a  village  in  any  part  of  the  country,  but  we 

see  some  place  so  nicely  arranged,  so  beautiful, 

and   possessing  some   feature  so  entirely  new, 

that  we  are  tempted  to  take  out  our  pencil  and 

make  a  sketch  on  the  spot. 

We  have  to  thank  the  architects  in  Roch- 
ester for  planning  houses  with  shady  recesses 

over  the  front  doors,  which  afford  opportunity 

for  the  most  elegant  adornment,  and  which  our 

people  have  not  been  slow  to  improve.     We 

were  so  pleased  with  this  feature,  that  we  had 

drawings  taken  of  two  which  presented  exhi- 
bitions of  rural  beauty  that  gave  more  pleasure 

to   their    owners    and    to   the   thousands  who 

passed  by,  than  would  thousands  of    dollars 

expended  in  architectural  display.    With  plenty 

of  water,   plants  can  lie  kept  in  such  situations 

through  the  summer  in  perfect  health. 

In  the  selection  of  plants  for  such  places 

more  regard  must  be  had  to  elegant    foliage 

than   beautiful    flowers;    but    it   is    absolutely 

necessary  to  obtain    those   that  will   keep   in 

perfection    a   long  time,    whether    chosen    for 

foliage  or  flowers.     Plants  that  rapidly  attain  their  best  estate,   ripen   and   pass  away,  may  be 

20 


iiAi.roxv  GARDEN. 


interesting  and  useful  in  appropriate  places,  and  generally  furnish  flowers  abundantly  for  cutting, 

but  should  not  be  planted  in  vases  or  baskets,  nor  on  the  lawn,  where  a  good  show  must  be  kept 

up  the  whole  season. 

WINDOW     K0>. 
To  those  who  are  not  fortunate  enough  to  have  balconies,  we  propose  to  show  how  easily  and 

cheaply  they  may  provide  a  substitute.     A  common  box,  the  length  of  the  window,   about  eight 

inches  deep  and  ten  inches  wide, 
can  be  fastened  on  the  outside  of 
the  window  by  means  of  brackets, 
either  iron  or  wood.  This  may  be 
painted,  or,  what  is  still  better, 
covered  with  oil  cloth.  Get  some 
small,  set  figure,  and  you  have  an 
imitation  of  a  tile  box  at  very  little 
cost.  In  Europe,  these  boxes 
boxes  are  to  be  seen  in  thousands 


WINDOW    BOX. 


<>f  windows,  and   many  of  them  both  elegant  and  expensive,  some   made  of  iron  and  covered 
with  costly  tiles.     The  one  we  propose  is  almost  as  beautiful,  and  ridiculously  cheap. 

PLANTS   FOR   BALCONIES.   WINDOW  BOXES,  AND  BEDDING. 

PLANTS  FOR  BALCONIES. — Among  plants  most  useful  for  balconies  we  suggest  the  following: 
Abutilons,  Achyranthus,  Begonias,  Coleus,  Clematis,  Convolvulus,  Canary-bird  Vine,  Dracaenas, 
Geraniums  (double  and  single),  German  Ivy,  Honeysuckles  (Halleana,  and  golden- veined ), 
I-obelias,  Moneywort,  Xepeta  (Ground  Ivy),  Othonna,  Tropaeolums,  Veronica  and  Vinca. 

PLANTS  FDR  \VINIK>W  BOXKS.  —  Geraniums,  Lobelias,  Vinca  variegata,  Sweet  Alyssum, 
Othonna,  Ivy  Geraniums,  Convolvulus  Mauritanicus,  Thunbergias,  Tropseolum,  Maurandya, 
Calampelis  scabra,  and  ( German  Ivies. 

A  great  variety  of  plants  is  not  needed  for  Lawn  Beds,  indeed  the  number  of  suitable  plants 
is  not  large.  What  we  require  is  a  strong  show  of  color  like  that  furnished  by  the  scarlet 
Geraniums,  or  a  ma>s  of  foliage  of  a  tropical  appearance,  like  that  supplied  by  the  Canna,  Cala- 
dium,  &c.,  or  a  bed  of  the  more  delicate,  variegated  and  ornamental  foliage,  for  which  purpo>e 
the  Coleus  and  variegated  Geranium  are  adapted.  For  the  different  purposes  mentioned,  in 
addition  to  the  Annuals  already  named,  and  grown  from  seed,  we  name  a  few  of  the  best : 

DWARF  PLANTS  FDR  EDGINGS  OR  BORDERS  OF  BEDS. — Alternanthera,  Armeria  or  Thrift, 
and  Pyrethrum  aureum. 

WHITE  I.KAVKD  PLANTS. — Glaucium,  Centaurea  and  Cineraria  maritima. 
SIID\VY-I  OLORKD  FOLIAGE. — Achyranthus,  Coleus,  and  Bronze  and  Silver-leaf  Geraniums. 
SCARLET  GERANIUMS. — Gen.  Grant  and  Queen  of  the  We>t. 

TALL  FOLIAGE  PLANTS. — Caladium  esculentum,  three  to  four  feet  in  height,  leaves  more  than 
two  feet  in  length.  Cannas,  from  three  to  five  feet  in  height;  a  variety  called  Robusta,  from  five 
to  eight  feet.  Ricinus  (Castor  Oil  Bean),  from  .six  to  twelve  feet. 

BED  OF  TALL  FOLIAGE  PLANTS. — For  a  bed  of  tall  Foliage  Plants  we  would  advise  some- 
thing like  the  following  :  Ricinus  or  Cannas  in  the  center.  If  the  center  is  Ricinus  they  may 
be  surrounded  with  a  circle  of  Cannas.  The  next  circle  should  be  Caladiums,  with  an  outside 
border  of  Coleus  or  Centaureas.  The  Ricinus  will  grow  from  seed  as  easily  as  Corn.  Good 
bulbs  must  be  planted  both  of  the  Caladiums  and  Cannas.  Young  plants  of  Coleus,  Centaurea. 
&c.,  are  grown  by  most  florists  for  the  purpose  of  bedding,  and  are  obtained  at  very  little  cost. 


21 


THE    WINTER    GARDEN. 


To  make  home  cheerful   during  the  long  winter   of   the  North,  there  is  nothing  that  can 

compare  with  flowering  plants.     They  are  a  constant,  ever-developing  delight.     Each  day  brings 

new  leaves  and  buds  and  blossoms,  and  new  forms  of  loveliness,  and  we  look  and  wonder  and 

admire.  With  house  plants, 
a>  with  all  other  things,  suc- 
cess is  essential  to  enjoyment. 
There  is  pleasure,  too,  in 
having  plants  as  much  as 
)ossible  the  work  of  our  own 
skill  —  grown  from  seeds  or 
cuttings  or  trained  by  our 
own  hands.  We  shall  en- 
deavor to  give  a  few  sugges- 
tions that  we  hope  will  be 
useful,  and  n)ake  the  road  to 
success  somewhat  easy.  We 
do  not  propose  to  instruct 
those  who  have  greenhouses 
and  gardeners,  as  we  have 
felt  that  our  mission  was  a 
more  humble,  and  yet,  we 
think,  a  more  glorious  one — 
to  create  a  love  of  flowers 
among  the  millions. 
Thousands  of  persons  purchase  vigorous,  beautiful  plants  from  the  green-houses  every  year, 

and  are  pained  to  see  them  gradually  and  surely  lose  all  trace  of  beauty,  and  finally  droop  and  die. 

How  can  we  prevent  this?     Plants,  like  ourselves,  need  air,  li<jht,  warmth,  food  and  drink,  and 

these  in   proper 

quantities,        or 

they  will    suffer 

and  finally  die. 
The       great 

desideratum     in 

window     plants 

is,  that  they  give 

us  either  flowers 

or  foliage  during 

the  long  winter 

months.        This 

we    can    secure 

only    by  careful 

attention     to     a 

few       necessary 

details.     First  of 

all,     plants      in 

proper  condition 

must      be      ob- 
tained. We 

must  not  expect 

those  that  have 

given  us  of  their  bounty  all   summer  to  continue  flowering  through  the  winter.     A  season  of  rest 

is  absolutely  necessary  to  almost  all  plants.     Preparation  for  winter  should  begin  as  early  as  June. 
>  22 


Even  earlier  than  this,  seed  of  Chinese  Primrose  and  Cineraria  should  be  sown.     Plants  for 
winter  flowering  should  be  kept  in  pots  all  summer,  or  plants  in  a  proper  state  must  be  procured 

from  some  florist  in  the  early  fall.  All  buds 
should  be  taken  from  plants  designed  for  winter 
flowering  until  about  the  middle  of  August.  After 
that  they  may  be  allowed  to  grow  that  we  may 
have  early  winter  flowers.  The  later  the  buds 
are  pinched  off  in  the  summer,  the  later  will  the 
plants  be  in  coming  into  flower  in  the  winter. 
•I  This  is  especially  the  case  with  Carnations,  Chry- 
santhemums, Bouvardias,  Heliotropes,  and  simi- 
lar plants.  Plants  should  be  brought  into  the 
house  and  placed  in  position  before  the  winter 
fires  are  made,  that  they  may  become  "  wonted" 
to  their  in-door  life. 

HEAT. — Most  of  our  plants  are  injured  by 
too  much  heat.  For  a  general  collection  of 
house  plants,  it  is  not  best  to  allow  the  thermom- 
5  eter  to  be  above  seventy,  and  if  they  could  be 
*  kept  in  a  room  where  the  thermometer  would 
usually  not  range  much  above  sixty-five  it  would 
be  the  better.  In  the  night  time  fifty  is  high 
enough.  Give  a  little  fresh  air  every  fine  day, 
and  all  the  sunlight  attainable.  An  effort  should 
be  made  to  give  moisture  to  the  atmosphere,  for 
our  own  good  as  well  as  the  health  of  the  plants.  This  can  be  done  in  various  ways  by  evapo- 
rating water ;  but  when  plants  are  in  a  separate  apartment,  like  a  little  green-house,  it  can  be 
done  more  conveniently  and  effectually,  although  this  separate  apartment  be  only  a  bay  window, 
with  glass  doors,  separating  it  from  the  living  room.  In  this  place  water  can  be  used  freely, 
by  syringing,  &c.,  and  a  moist  atmosphere  preserved.  The  temperature,  with  this  arrangement, 
can  be  kept  lower  than 
would  be  comfortable  in  the 
living  room,  and  the  plants 
are  saved  from  dust  and 
many  evils  which  we  man- 
age to  endure  and  live,  but 
which  generally  prove  too 
much  for  the  plants 

AIR  AND  LIGHT.  —  Ev- 
ery one  knows  that  a  plant 
grown  in  the  dark  is  weak 
and  colorless ;  and  if  it  has 
plenty  of  light  and  little 
air,  while  it  will  have  the 
natural  color,  it  will  be 
slender  and  sickly.  The 
gardener,  therefore,  is  care- 
ful to  give  his  green-houses 
and  hot-beds  not  only  light, 
but  air  at  every  convenient 
opportunity.  In  winter,  he 
hails  a  bright,  sunny  day  with  delight. 


Plants  will  suffer  from  a  current 


as  their  owner  would,  but  both  are  benefited  by  an  invigorating  breath  of  fresh  air.  Provide, 
therefore,  for  air  in  some  way,  especially  on  pleasant  days,  and  every  day,  unless  the  weather  is 
too  cold  —  when  the  mercury  registers  within  10  deg.  of  zero.  This  can  be  done  by  opening 

23 


«^- 


a  window  as  far  from  the  plants  as  possible.  When  too  cold,  a  door  or  window  in  an  adjoining 
room  can  be  opened.  Care  should  be  taken,  however,  that  no  direct  draft  blows  upon  the  tender 
plants,  for  nothing  is  worse  than  cold  drafts  for  both  plants  and  persons.  The  cracks  around 
the  sash  and  casing  should  be  effectually  closed.  This  can  be  done  very  neatly  by  pasting  narrow 
strips  of  paper  over  them.  A  storm-sash  or  double  window  is  the  .surest  protection  against  fro-t, 
and  next  to  this  is  a  paper  curtain  between  the  plants  and  the  window. 

THE    SOIL    AND    WATER. 

The  soil  used  in  potting  should  be  neither  too  sandy,  as  it  will  dry  out  too  quickly  ;  nor  too 
heavy,  for  this  holds  the  water  too  long,  and  is  apt  to  become  soggy.  A  mixture  of  sand,  leaf- 

-i  mould  and  common  garden  loam  will 
I  suit  almost  all  kinds  of  room  plants. 
I  would  recommend  the  use  of  finely 
powdered  charcoal  in  the  bottom  of 
the  pots,  not  so  much  to  secure  good 
drainage  as  to  correct  ascidity  in  the 
soil  occasioned  by  over-watering.  A 
moderate  use  of  stimulants  will  l>e 
found  very  beneficial  to  growing  plants, 
but  they  should  not  be  used  on  such 
as  are  partially  or  wholly  dormant. 
Bone-dust,  guano,  and  special  ammo- 
niated  preparations  are  the  most  con- 
venient, especially  for  city  resident. 
To  those  who  have  the  facilities  for 
making  liquid  barn-yard  manure,  I 
would  say,  use  that  in  preference  to 
any  other. 

The  subject  of  watering  is  one  that 
cannot  be  too  carefully  studied.  How 
and  when  to  water  must  be  learned  by 
experience.  General  directions  only 
can  be  given.  First  of  all,  invariably 
use  warm  water.  Water  only  when 
the  soil  becomes  dry,  and  apply 
enough  to  wet  the  whole  body  of  earth 
in  the  pot.  Water  sparingly  rather 
than  too  often.  Plants  die  more  easily 
from  drowning  than  from  thirst. 
CLEANLINESS  is  as  necessary  to  the  health  of  plants  as  to  animals,  and  it  is,  therefore,  neces- 
sary to  secure  them  from  dust  as  much  as  possible,  and  also  to  cleanse  the  plants  frequently  by 
syringing  or  washing.  Even  here  a  little  caution  is  necessary,  for  while  the  smooth-leaved 
plants,  like  Ivies,  are  benefited,  not  only  by  showering,  but  even  by  washing  the  leaves  with 
a  cloth  or  sponge,  the  rough-leaved  plants,  like  the  Begonia  Rex,  do  not  like  to  have  the 
surface  of  their  leaves  frequently  moistened,  and  should  be  cleaned  with  a  soft  brush.  It 
would,  therefore,  be  well  to  remove  such  plants  before  syringing.  Take  every  precau- 
tion, however,  to  prevent  the  accumulation  of  dust  upon  the  plants;  and  above  all  endeavor 
to  screen  them  from  that  terrible  infliction,  carpet-sweeping.  It  may  be  well  enough  to  kill  the 
old  people  by  compelling  them  to  breathe  clouds  of  dust,  but  send  the  children  into  the  fresh 
air  to  skate,  or  to  snow-ball,  and  spare  the  plants,  if  possible.  The  essentials  of  success  in 
plant  culture  are  suitable  soil,  air,  light,  moderate  and  regular  heat,  a  moist  atmosphere,  regular 
and  moderate  watering,  and  freedom  from  dust  and  foul  gas. 

We  have  given  a  few  illustrations  of  Window  Gardens,  all  taken  from  photographs  sent  us  by 
our  amateur  friends,  and  we  think  they  will  show  that  success  is  within  the  reach  of  all,  and 
under  almost  any  conceivable  circumstances. 

24 


THE    CONSERVATORY. 

The  Winter  Garden  proper,  or  Conservatory,  is  a  delightful  spot  in  which 
to  spend  an  hour  occasionally  during  the  cold  storms  of  winter — a  little 
Eden  of  our  own  making  —  a  tropical  summer  brought  to  our  own  doors. 
All  who  can  afford  the  expense,  we  think,  should  enjoy  this  luxury.  It  costs 
something,  to  be  sure,  but  the  money  is  not  wasted.  The  making  of  the 
building  gives  employment  to  those  who  need  it,  very  likely ;  the  purchase 
of  plants  encourages  the  florist  to  continue  the  culture  of  these  beautiful 
objects. .  Money  spent  in  luxuries  that  are  elevating  and  refining  is  well  spent.  The  florist  who 
grows  plants  for  sale  finds  that  the  demand  is  greatest  for  small  specimens.  He  therefore  crowds 
every  possible  space  with  plants  so  as  to  secure  as  great  a  return  as  possible.  Amateurs,  how- 
ever, who  erect  conservatories  for  pleasure  make  a  great  mistake  when  they  imitate  the  florist  in 
this  respect.  Private  conservatories  are  made  for  pleasure,  and  should  be  arranged  somewhat  in 
the  manner  of  a  garden,  with  a  few  large  and  beautiful  plants,  and  broad  walks,  where  the  pro- 
prietor and  his  family  can  lounge  away  an  hour  pleasantly,  in  a  measure  free  from  care. 

What  a  blessing  a  rich  man  would  be  to  a  neighborhood,  if  he  were  to  build  such  a  conser- 
vatory as  we  have  described,  and  say  to  his  neighbors  and  their  children  that  it  was  constructed 
partly  for  their  pleasure,  and  that,  at  certain  times,  say  two  or  three  days  in  a  week,  all  were 
invited  to  call  and  enjoy  its  pleasures  at  their  convenience.  Something  of  this  kind  is  by  no 
means  uncommon  in  Europe,  and  we  have  often  had  the  pleasure  of  uniting  with  the  public  in 
visiting  the  private,  yet  magnificent,  grounds  and  houses  of  many  gentlemen,  both  in  England  and 
on  the  Continent.  The  idea  that  the  people  will  injure  or  destroy  plants  or  flowers  is  entirely 
fallacious.  Tens  of  thousands  of  people,  on  some  days,  visit  the  Kensington  gardens  and 
conservatories,  yet  nothing  is  harmed.  Indeed,  if  we  wished  to  give  an  object  lesson  on  good 
manners,  we  would  point  to  the  gardens  where  the  masses  of  the  people  congregate.  The 
American  people  need  education  on  this  point.  We  have  given  in  the  engraving  something 
of  an  idea  of  what  we  think  an  amateur  conservatory  should  be. 

B 


WARDIAN   CASE. 


WAR1MAN    CASKS    AND    FERNERIES. 

Some  plants  will  not  endure  the  atmosphere  of  our  living  rooms,  such  as  the  Ferns,  and  like 
plants,  that  are  found  growing  naturally  in  shady  places  in  the  woods  and  groves,  and  on  the 
cool  banks  of  brooks.  For  the  purpose  of  growing  these  successfully  the  Wardian  Case  or 
Fernery  is  necessary.  These  are  simply  glass  cases,  that  exclude  outside  air  and  dust,  while,  of 

course,  the  air  inside  is  confined  and  hu- 
mid.    Here  ferns,  and  other  delicate  plants, 

will  grow  and  flourish  with  a  luxuriousness 

unknown  to  plants  cultivated  in  the  open 

air,  or  subjected  to  the  dust  and  drafts  of 

our  parlors.     The  soil  should  be  light  and 

porous,    composed   of    leaf-mould   with   a 

little  sand.      To  fill  them  properly  put  a 

layer  of  broken  charcoal,  an   inch  and  a 

half  in   depth,  in  the  pan  which  is  found 

at  the  bottom  of  the  fernery,  and  upon  that 

place  the  soil.      When  setting  the  plants, 

give  a  good  supply  of  water  to  settle  the 

soil,  but  not  enough  to  make  it  soggy  :  the  earth  should  absorb  it  all. 

Place  the  glass  over  them,  and  for  the  first  few  days  watch  the  case 

closely.  If  any  of  the  plants  show  signs  of  moulding,  raise  the  glass 
and  let  part  of  the  moisture  escape.  In  regard  to  ventilation  no  stated  directions  can  be  given. 
A  few  Ferns  and  Lycopods  will  live  in  an  air-tight  case,  yet  even  these  will  do  fully  as  well  if  a 
little  air  is  admitted.  We  would  advise  an  airing  once  a  week.  The  glass  should  not  be  left  off 
too  long  —  fifteen  minutes  will  be  enough.  Ferns,  Mosses,  Begonias,  Gesnerias,  Peperomias, 
Marantas  and  Dracaenas,  can  be  used  to  good  advantage.  Many  plants  from  the  woods  do  nicely, 
such  as  Partridge  Vine,  Hepaticas  and  Trailing  Arbutus.  With  a  little  experience  and  care 
these  cases  will  make  an  ornament  worthy  of  a  place  in  any  parlor. 

PLANTS    FOR    HOUSE    CULTURE. 

In  giving  a  list  of  plants  for  house  culture  we  name  a  few  varieties  only,  and  such  as  we 
know  to  be  of  easy  culture,  of  real  merit,  and  that  will  please  the  lovers  of  flowers. 

FOR   TEMPERATURE   BY    DAY  65°,   AND   45°   BY   NIGHT. 

Foliage  Plants. — Dractenas,  Euonymous,  Farfugium,  Begonias  (Rex  type),  Rubber  Tree, 
Abutilon  Thompsonii,  Palms,  Hard  Ferns,  Vinca  variegata. 

Climbers.  —  Solanum  Jasminoides,  Ivies,  Coboea  scandens,  Pilogyne  suavis,  Maurandya, 
Lygodium,  Hoya  or  Wax  Plant,  Passion  Vine. 

Bulbs.  —  Hyacinths,  Tulips  (Due  Van  Thol),  Crocus,  Narcissus,  Cyclamen,  Oxalis. 

Flowering  Plants.  —  Abutilons,  Jasminum  grandiflorum,  Geraniums,  Fuchsias,  Carnations, 
Primulas,  Libonia,  Cupheas,  Camellias,  Azalias,  Violets,  Roses,  Othonna  crassifolia,  Oleanders, 
Chrysanthemums,  Callas. 

Of  the  above,  Geraniums,  Camellias,  the  Holland  Bulbs,  Primroses,  Violets,  Chrysanthemums 
and  Carnations,  will  do  best  kept  quite  cool. 

FOR  TEMPERATURE  OF    75°   TO   80°   BY   DAY,   AND   60°   BY   NIGHT. 

Begonias,  Bouvardias,  Cissus,  Crotons,  Heliotropes,  Marantas,  Tropseolum,  Salvias,  Poin- 
settias,  Smilax. 


INSECT    ENEMIES    TO    HOUSE    PLANTS. 


GREEN-FLY 

MAGXIFIED. 


The  cultivators  of  house  plants  have  an  army  of  enemies,  small,  to  be  sure,  but  numerous 
and  active.  Fortunately,  they  are  not  very  brave,  but  like  to  attack  the  weak,  and  soon  become 
discouraged  when  they  meet  with  vigorous  opposition.  Indeed,  they  seem  to  know  where  they 
have  a  chance  of  victory  and  seldom  attack  plants  that  are  well  watched  and  cared  for. 

THE    GREEN-FLY. 

The  "green-fly"'  every  plant  raiser  knows,  and  he  knows,  too,  to  his  sorrow,  how  destructive 
it  is  if  left  to  itself.  The  plants  which  this  insect  attacks  are  the  softest  and  most  succulent, 
and  at  the  ends  of  the  young  shoots,  and  the  softest  leaves.  It  sucks  the 
juices  so  as  materially  to  injure  the  plant  in  a  short  time.  The  insects  of  this 
kind  (ApAis)  increase  with  such  wonderful  rapidity  that  REACMVR  has  proved 
that  in  five  generations  one  aphis  may  be  the  progenitor  of  six  thousand 
millions,  and  there  may  be  ten  generations  in  a  year. 

The  insect  inflicts  the  injury  by  means  of  a  long  rostrum  or  beak  through 
which  it  sucks  out  the  juices  —  the  rostrum,  when  not  in  use,  lies  inflected 
beneath  the  breast.  Their  bodies,  at  the  hinder  extremity,  are  furnished  with  two  little  promi- 
nent or  knotty  openings,  from  which  exude  almost  continually  little  drops  of  a  sweet  or  honey- 
like  fluid.  As  they  take  in  great  quantities  of  sap,  they  would  soon  become  gorged  if  they  did 
not  get  rid  of  the  superabundant  fluid.  The  leaves  and  bark  of  plants  much  infested  by  these 
insects  are  often  completely  sprinkled  over  with  drops  of  this  sticky  fluid,  which,  on  drying, 
becomes  dark  colored  and  greatly  disfigures  the  foliage. 

Of  all  the  means  that  have  been  employed  for  the  destruction  of  this  insect,  that  which 
has  proved  most  efficient  and  the  one  now  almost  universally  practiced,  is  fumigation  with 
tobacco.  Some  plants,  such  as  Heliotropes,  Salvias,  Lantanas,  and  some  others  with  soft,  downy 
foliage,  will  not  bear  ordinary  fumigations  without  injury  to  the  leaves,  and  these  plants,  there- 
fore, should  not  be  subjected  to  it.  Many  plants  in  full  flower,  but  especially  Pelargoniums,  will 
throw  off  their  expanded  blooms  after  smoking,  and  therefore  it  is  best  to  remove  such  plants  before 
fumigating.  Care  should  be  used  also  to  have  the  foliage  of  all  the  plants  dry,  for  if  they  are 
wet  or  damp,  the  smoke  will  be  apt  to  injure  such  as  are  of  a  soft  texture.  If  the  plants  are  in 
a  conservatory  attached  to  the  house,  the  time  chosen  for  fumi- 
gating should  be  a  still  evening  when  there  is  little  or  no  wind 
stirring,  and  the  temperature  of  the  house  should  be  pretty  well 
up,  as  then  the  insects  are  more  active  and  the  smoke  will  more 
easily  affect  them.  A  few  chips  or  a  little  charcoal  may  be  placed 
upon  a  small  furnace  or  a  pan  and  ignited,  and  then  a  small  quan- 
tity of  tobacco  placed  upon  it  —  the  tobacco  should  have  been 
previously  dampened  so  as  to  prevent  its  burning  too  rapidly  or 
blazing. 

When  only  a  plant  or  two,  or  a  small  number  of  them  are  to  be 
treated,  they  can  be  fumigated  under  an  inverted  barrel  or  large 
box  in  a  back  room  or  shed.  Single  plants  may  be  fumigated  by 
making  a  bell  of  a  newspaper,  as  shown  in  the  engraving.  The 
smoke  can  be  introduced  by  means  of  a  tobacco-pipe.  Fill  the; 
bowl  two-thirds  full  of  quick-burning  tobacco,  and  after  lighting,  j 
place  a  piece  of  cotton  cloth  over  the  bowl,  and  blow  the  smoke' 
through  the  stem,  with  the  mouth.  Instead  of  fumigation,  a  weak 
solution  of  tobacco  may  sometimes  be  used  quite  as  effectively  ;  this  is  often  the  more  convenient 
way  for  a  few  plants.  Soak  or  steep  some  tobacco  in  water  until  the  strength  is  extracted.  The 
strength  of  the  water  may  be  determined  by  dipping  a  leaf  into  it  or  letting  it  remain  in  it  for  a 
short  time  —  if  the  leaf  is  browned  or  burned,  or  turns  so  when  taken  out  of  the  water,  the  solu- 
tion is  too  strong,  and  must  be  reduced  by  increasing  the  quantity  of  water.  When  the  right 
degree  of  strength  is  acquired,  dip  the  whole  plant  into  the  water  and  afterwards  syringe  it  off 
with  clean  water.  What  we  desire  to  impress  most  forcibly  on  the  minds  of  our  readers,  and 


especially  those  who  keep  only  a  small  number  of  plants  in  the  living-room,  is  the  better  way,  of 
watching  them  so  closely  and  syringing  and  washing  them  so  frequently  that  the  fly  is  kept  under 
and  the  plants  maintained  in  the  highest  state  of  health. 

THRIPS. 

This  is  an  exceedingly  active  little  insect,  and  seems  to  leap  rather  than  fly.  The  engraving 
shows  a  thrip  of  natural  size,  fig.  f,  and  the  same  insect  magnified,  fig.  h.  These  insects  are 
extremely  small,  and  have  long,  slender  bodies,  with  very  narrow  wings  which  are  fringed  with 
fine  hair.  They  live  on  leaves,  flowers,  in  buds,  and  even  in  the  crevices  of  the  bark  of  plants, 
but  are  so  small  that  they  readily  escape  notice,  the  largest  being  not  more  than  one-tenth  of  an 
inch  in  length.  The  color  of  the  insect  varies  from  a  whitish  yellow  to  a  dark  brown.  It 
attacks  the  extremities  of  young  shoots  and  tender  leaves,  which  become 
brown  and  shriveled,  and  will  crumble  to  dust  when  rubbed  between  the 
thumb  and  finger. 

The  same  means  that  have  been  recommended  for  the  destruction  of  the 
"  green-fly"  serve  for  this  little  pest  also,  but  it  does  not  succumb  so  readily 
—  the  fumigation  must  be  more  frequently  and  persistently  practiced.     As  we 
have  said   in  reference  to  the  "green-fly,"  so  with  this  insect;  it  maybe  prevented  to  a  great 
extent  from  multiplying,  by  syringing  and  frequently  washing  the  leaves  of  the  plants. 

If  a  vinery  should  be  seriously  attacked  with  thrips,  wait  until  all  tr,e  foliage  and  fruit  are 
taken  off  the  vines ;  then  remove  all  kinds  of  plants  that  have  green  leaves  into  other  houses, 
and  shut  up  the  vinery  close  and  fill  it  with  the  fumes  of  sulphur. 

RED    SPIDER. 

The  RED  SPIDER  (Acarus  tellarius),  is  a  troublesome  little  insect,  and  one  which,  if  allowed 
to  run  unchecked,  would  speedily  bring  devastation  and  total  ruin  to  the  plants  of  the  house  or 
conservatory ;  but  it  is  no  doubt  designed  for  some  beneficial  purpose.  We  can  more  clearly  see 
the  compensating  good  from  its  attacks  than  in  the  case  of  most  other  plant-preyers.  If  it  were 
not  for  the  wholesome  fear  which  it  continually  inspires,  gardeners  and  other  plant-growers 
would  probably  very  frequently  maintain  an  atmosphere  so  dry  as  materially  to  injure  or  destroy 
their  plants.  If  you  catch  a  glimpse  of  a  red  spider  you  may  be  sure  that  the  atmosphere  of 
your  plant-room  has  been  kept  too  dry  —  if  it  is  your  living-room,  it  has  also  been  too  dry  for 
the  health  of  the  human  occupants.  It  will  be  seen  by  the  engraving  that  the  insect  is  very 
minute,  as  shown  by  the  little  dot  a  ;  the  same,  highly  magnified,  appears  at 
b.  The  body  is  of  a  blood-red  color,  and  the  feet  a  light  red. 

A  plant  upon  which  this  insect  has  taken  up  his  abode,  in  a  short  time 
shows  some  leaves  turning  yellow,  indicating  premature  decay  —  when  they  are 
numerous  they  work  webs  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves,  and  sometimes  all 
over  it,  until  the  plant  becomes  a  mass  of  half  dead  and  decayed  leaves. 

Water  is  fatal  to  the  red  spider,  and  as  before  remarked ;  with  an  atmosphere 
of  proper  humidity  this  insect  would  never  get  a  foot-hold.  When  once  firmly  established  upon 
the  plants,  the  speediest  way  to  destroy  them  is  by  the  fumes  of  sulphur.  This  remedy,  however, 
must  be  used  with  much  caution,  as  the  free  use  of  it  will  cause  most  plants  to  shed  their  leaves. 

Fortunately,  but  little  of  it  is  required ;  and  in  the  green-houses  it  has  been  found  sufficient 
to  mix  a  little  flour  of  sulphur  with  water,  or  with  milk,  which  is  said  to  be  better,  and  to  paint 
or  smear  with  it  a  small  surface  of  the  heating  pipes  or  the  flue  ;  a  very  little  of  it  in  the  atmos- 
phere proves  sufficient  for  the  destruction  of  the  insect.  In  the  case  of  a  few  house-plants,  we 
think  that  sponging  of  the  leaves  on  both  sides,  and  syringing  the  plants  so  that  the  water  is 
thrown  on  the  under  as  well  as  upper  sides  of  the  leaves,  will  be  effectual  without  recourse  to 
sulphur. 

SCALE    INSECT. 

The  Coccus,  or  SCALP:  INSECT,  is  a  common  pest  on  some  kinds  of  plants — the  Orange,  the 
Myrtle,  the  Camellia,  the  Oleander,  and  many  other  hard-wooded  plants  are  apt  to  be  infested 
by  them.  There  are  many  species  of  Coccus,  varying  slightly  from  each  other.  One  kind  of 
plants  is  the  home  of  one  variety,  and  another  sort  devotes  its  attention  exclusively  to  some  other 
kind.  The  Grape,  the  Pear,  the  Elm,  and  almost  every  kind  of  our  cultivated  and  forest  trees 
has  its  special  representative  of  this  class  of  insects.  In  the  engraving  the  insect  of  natural  size 

28 


RED   SPIDER    lACAf 
US   TELLARIUS.  I 


is  shown,  a;  when  magnified,  the  upper  side,  b,  represents  a  shield,  and  the  legs  are  only  seen 

when  it  is  turned  on  its  back,  f. 

The  remedy  in  this  case  is  by  washing  the  plant  by  hand  and  forcing  the  insect  off  with  the 
thumb  or  finjer-nail ;  or  take  a  small,  stiff  brush  and  soap-suds,  and 
brush  the  plant  until  it  is  thoroughly  clean.  The  name  of  the 
species  that  infests  the  Myrtle,  Orange,  Oleander,  &c.,  is  Coccus  Hes- 
peridum.  A  London  friend  writes  that  a  little  alcohol,  applied  with  a 
camel  hair  brash,  such  as  is  used  in  painting  with  water  colors,  will 
kill  any  insect  it  touches. 

The  MEALY  BUG  (Coccus  Adoniduni),  is  similar  to  the  previously 

mentioned  insect,  except  that  it  is  cov-  , 


COCCI'S,    OK   SCALE   INbELT. 


ered  with  a  white,  mealy  or  downy 
substance.  Both  of  them  insert  their 
teaks  into  the  l^ark  or  leaves,  and  draw 
from  the  cellular  sulwtance  the  sap  that 
nourishes  them.  A  weak  mixture  of 
whale-oil  soap  and  water  in  the  propor- 
tion of  one  pound  of  soap  to  five  gal- 
lons of  water,  will  be  found  destructive  to  them.  With  a  few  plants,  only,  we  would  recom- 
mend the  use  of  a  soft  brush  and  water,  and  in  this  way  they  can  be  readily  removed. 

^    •    •• 

COLD    PITS. 


OLEANDER    LEAF   WITH    SCALE    INSECT. 


There  are  some  plants  that  are  unable  to  bear  a  Northern  winter,  yet  can  endure  a  good  deal 
of  what  looks  like  hard  treatment.     For  instance,  they  can  be  taken  up  from  the  garden  in  the 

autumn,  and  placed  in  a  tolerably  light  and 
dry  cellar  and  in  the  spring  are  ready  for 
transplanting  again  to  the  garden.  There 
are,  however,  but  few  cellars  fit  to  preserve 
plants  during  the  winter,  and  in  these  only 
the  most  enduring  and  long-suffering  are 
safe.  "\Yhat  is  known  to  gardeners  as  the 
COLD  PIT  is  only  an  out-door  cellar,  ex- 
pressly made  for  the  preservation  of  plants. 
In  such  pits  many  of  the  more  hardv 

FIG.    I.  ,  ,  ,  r   11  •    ' 

green-house  plants  may  be  successfully  win- 
tered. The  following  list,  including,  perhaps,  those  plants  which  amateurs  would  be  most 
likely  to  possess,  may  be  wintered  perfectly  in  a  cold  pit : — Abutilon,  Bouvardia,  Camellia, 
Carnation,  Cestrum,  Crape  Myrtle,  Erica, 
Fuchsia,  Geraniums,  Hydrangea,  Lantana, 
Laurestinus,  Laurus,  Oleander,  Pittosporum, 
Pomegranate,  Roses  of  all  kinds,  Tritoma 
uvaria,  Yucca,  and  many  others  of  like  nature. 
Soft-wooded  plants,  like  Verbenas  and  Helio- 
tropes, are  apt  to  mildew. 

A  pit  (fig.  I  )  for  the  purpose  described 
should  be  situated  in  as  sheltered  a  position 
as  possible,  and  have  thorough  drainage.  It 
may  be  not  more  than  four  feet  deep,  and  be 
reached  from  the  top  or  outside  when  the  sash 
is  removed ;  or  it  may  be  from  six  to  eight 
feet  in  depth,  with  several  shelves,  like  fig.  2, 
and  of  a  size  to  suit  the  number  of  plants  to 

be  kept.     If  built  on  the  side  of  the  house   it  may  adjoin  the  cellar,  and  have  an  entrance  into 
it  through  the  cellar  wall ;  but  as  dampness  is  the  great  enemy  of  such  a  place,  this  trouble  may 

' 


he  obviated  by  building  a  double  or  hollow  brick  wall.    When  it  is  not  convenient  to  build  a  stone 
or  brick  wall,  or  where  lumber  is  cheap  or  easily  to  be  obtained,  the  walls  may  be  built  by  taking 
pieces  of  two-by-four  studding  and  nailing  to  them  on  each  side  rough  boards,  so  as  to  form  a 
double  wall  of  boards  with  an  air  chamber  (fig.  3.)     These  may  then  be 
slipped   into   their  places   at  the  sides  and  ends   of  the  pit   and  fastened 
together.     The  front  wall  should  not  rise  over  six  inches  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground,  and  the  rear  wall  only  enough  higher  to  give  the  sash 
sufficient  slope  to  carry  off  the  water  easily.     The  back  side  can  be  banked 
up  with  earth  within  a  few  inches   of  the  upper  edge.       A  pit  of  small 
size  may  be  made  not  more  than  six  feet  in  width  and  six,   nine  or  twelve 
feet   in  length,  and  it  may  then  be  covered  with  common  hot-bed  sash> 
which  are  usually  made  about  three  feet  by  six  feet.     Of  course  it  can  be 
made  as  large  as  desired,  even  so  large  as  to  require  a  span  roof,  which 
may  be  made  stationary  or  with  moveable  sash,  at  one's  option.     In  stormy 
FIG-  3-  weather  it  is  necessary  to  furnish  better  protection  than  that  afforded  by  the 

glass,  and  this  is  secured  usually  by  heavy  straw  matting,  and  it  is  well  to  have  narrow  board 
shutters  that  can  be  handled  easily,  to  cover  the  glass,  and  over  these  the  matting  is  placed. 
The  two  will  secure  exemption  from  frost  in 
the  worst  possible  weather. 

The  straw  mats,  which  we  have  referred 
to  for  covering  the  pit,  are  also  very  useful 
articles  for  the  gardener  in  shading  his  forcing 
frames  or  protecting  them  from  the  cold  in 
nights  of  early  spring.  These  mats  are  easily 
made  and  one  can  employ  his  time  upon  them 
in  very  cold  or  stormy  weather,  when  nothing 
can  be  done  to  advantage  outside.  In  order 

to  make  a  good  article  and  to  work  to  best  advantage  it  is  best  to  employ  a  frame,  such  as  shown 
in  fig.  4.  This  frame  may  be  made  of  two  pieces  of  two-by-four  stuff  for  the  sides,  of  the  length 
required  for  the  mat,  and  of  two  transverse  pieces  morticed  into  them  at  the  ends.  Four  feet 
will  be  found  a  very  convenient  width  for  the  frame.  This  frame  work  can  rest  upon  a  pair  of 
wooden  horses,  about  two  feet  in  height,  in  which  position  the  labor  can  be  most  easily  performed. 
In  the  engraving  we  have  shown  only  two  strings,  but  a  mat  of  four  feet  width  should  have  at 
least  four  strings,  which  will  make  the  spaces  between  them  about  nine  and  one-half  inches  in 
width ;  closer  tying  than  this  even  would  be  preferable.  Screws  are  inserted 
at  the  proper  distances  on  the  cross  pieces,  to  which  the  strings  are  attached. 
The  straw  is  placed  on  the  strings  so  as  to  have  all  the  butts  or  lower  ends 
come  against  the  sides  of  the  frame,  with  the  tops  meeting  in  the  middle, 
and  so  thin  as  to  have  the  mat  not  more  than  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in 
thickness  when  finished.  The  stitches  should  not  be  more  than  three-fourths 
of  an  inch  in  width.  The  tieing  string  should  be  wound  on  a  reel,  and 
FIG.  5.  there  should  be  one  of  them  for  each  stationary  string.  The  method  of  tie- 

ing  is  shown  in  the  illustration,  fig.  5.  Take  a  little  of  the  straw  with  the  left  hand  and  work 
the  reel  with  the  right,  first  over  the  straw  and  then  under  the  stationary  string,  bringing  it  back 
between  the  two  strings,  pulling  tightly  and  pressing  the  straw  so  as  to  have  a  flat  stitch.  In  this 
way  the  work  is  continued  until  the  mat  is  finished.  During  the  daytime,  except  when  the 
weather  is  very  severe,  the  matting  and  shutters  should  be  removed  and  the  plants  exposed  to  the 
full  light,  and,  when  the  temperature  will  admit  of  it,  —  as  it  often  will  at  mid-day,  even  in  some 
of  the  more  Northern  States, — the  sash  should  be  removed  partially  to  allow  the  moisture  to 
evaporate,  and  thus  secure  the  plants  from  mildew,  which  is  the  result  of  dampness  in  a  low 
temperature.  Great  care  should  be  exercised  about  giving  the  plants  any  water,  as  it  is  desirable 
to  keep  them  as  nearly  as  possible  in  a  state  of  rest,  and,  if  it  were  not  for  the  ventilation,  the 
moisture  in  the  pit  would  be  quite  sufficient.  Pits  in  different  localities  will  vary  considerably  in 
this  respect,  some  being  much  drier  than  others.  Such  pits  may  also  be  used  for  germinating  seeds, 
striking  cuttings,  and  rearing  young  plants  in  the  spring  and  summer,  with  proper  ventilation. 

30 


FLORAL    DECORATIONS. 


There  are  times  in  all  our  lives  when  the  heart  is  joyous,  and  its  rapturous  throbs  make  the 
eyes  sparkle  with  delight,  and  wreath  the  face  with  smiles.  We  delight  to  give  expression  to 
this  joy  in  kind  acts  and  pleasant  words,  in  adorning  our  homes  with  garlands  and  flowers,  in 
presenting  our  loved  ones  with  bouquets  and  other  marks  of  regard.  The  "  Merry  Christmas  " 
and  the  "  Happy  New  Year,"  CHARLEY'S  return  from  school,  the  baby's  birthday,  and  sister's 
wedding,  must  all  be  honored,  and  how  so  innocently,  so  tastefully,  so  sweetly  as  with  garlands 
of  flowers  ?  Then  the  church  and  school  room  must  be  trimmed,  and  mottoes  be  made,  by 
fingers  which  know  nothing  of  the  painter's  art,  and  that  have  not  fashioned  a  Roman  capital 
since  they  printed  letters  to  little  friends,  long,  long  ago.  We  will  endeavor  to  show  how  it  is 
done,  with  the  aid  of  a  few  illustrations,  and  hope  to  make  the  subject  so  plain  that  all  may 
understand,  and  with  a  little  practice  become  expert  in  the  art  of  Floral  Decoration. 

FORMING    LETTERS. 

The  forming  of  letters  neatly  and  rapidly  is  no  mean  accomplishment,  and  those  who  possess 
this  art  are  almost  invaluable  at  all  festive  gatherings.  How  beautiful  the  word  "  WELCOME,"  on 
some  occasions;  and  "  PEACE  ON  EARTH,"  will  be  new  and  glorious  every  Christmas.  These 
letters  are  usually  made  of  dry  or  Everlasting  Flowers  and  dry  moss,  cedar  or  other  evergreens. 

Obtain  heavy  straw  board  at  the  book  or  paper  stores,  as 
shown  in  Figure  1,  and  mark  out  the  letters  with  a  pencil, 
Determine  the  height  you  wish  the  letters,  and  divide  that 
into  six  equal  parts  by  drawing  lines  entirely  across  the 

•  xj     y<i               •$%, j    •*.!•?..  i  board,  as  shown  in  Figure  2.       Four  of  these  divisions  will 

I  k  i      Z3B»  A  W         •<•  be  a  good  proportion  for  the  width  ; 
1  m     \  W 1   A  I  of   most   letters,  as  seen    by  the 

same  figure.  The  few  letters  that 
vary  from  this  can  be  correctly 
made  by  the  following  arrange- 
ment. Suppose  the  letters  are 

six  inches  high,  then  four  inches  would  be  the  proper  width  for  B,  C, 
D,  H,  N,  O,  P,  Q,  R,  S,  U,  Z;  four  and  a  half  inches  wide  for  A,  G,  K,  T,  V,  X,  Y,  &;  the 
letter  M  should  be  five  inches,  W  six  inches,  E,  F,  L  three  and  a  half  inches,  J  three  inches,  and 
I  one  inch  wide.  By  this  arrangement  letters  of  any  size  can  be  made  by  simply  dividing  the 
height  into  six  sections,  and  using  four  such  sections  for  the  ordinary  width  of  the  letters,  varying 
the  width  to  suit  the  other  letters,  as  already  shown,  and  always  making  the  letters  one  section  in 
thickness.  (See  engraving,  No.  2.)  Letters  made  by  this  rule  look  rather  thin,  but  when  covered . 
with  flowers  or  evergreens  they  are  just  what  is  wanted.  The  letters  being  cut  from  the  straw- 
board  with  a  sharp  knife  or  strong  shears,  are 
ready  to  be  covered.  This  can  be  done  by  tying 
with  dark  thread,  small  branches  of  evergreens 
over  the  face  of  the  board,  with  a  few  Everlasting 
Flowers  or  bright  berries  to  relieve  the  sombre 
color.  Better  letters,  however,  can  be  made  with 
;  dry  moss  and  Everlasting  Flowers,  as  shown  in 
figure  3.  Tie  the  moss  over  the  face  of  the  letter 
as  evenly  as  possible,  then  cut  the  stems  of  the 
flowers  short,  leaving  only  about  half  an  inch.  Dip  the  stem  in  a  little  paste,  and  insert  it  in  the 
moss,  and  when  dry  it  will  remain  secure.  We  have  made  very  pretty  letters  by  covering  the 
board  with  Gomphrenas,  or  Immortelles,  fastened  to  it  with  thick  paste.  Crosses,  or  any  desired 
form,  can  be  made  in  the  same  way  as  letters. 

MAKING     FLORAL    DESIGNS. 

Flowers  are  arranged  in  many  beautiful  forms,  suitable  to  almost  eveiy  occasion.  In  the 
hands  of  the  skillful  florist  they  are  made  to  speak  words  of  hope  to  sorrowing  hearts,  and  sin£ 
songs  of  joy  in  the  hour  of  gladness.  These  Floral  designs  can  be  ordered  of  any  professional 

31 


florist,  but  there  are  many  of  our  readers,  who,  from  location  or  circumstances,  are  not  able  to 
employ  such  aid.  There  are  also  occasions  when  a  present  of  a  floral  ornament,  the  work  of  the 
donor,  would  be  prized  very  highly,  when  the  same  procured  from  another  would  neither  be 


appropriate  nor  pleasant.       We  therefore  think  a  few  hints  on  the  making  of  floral  designs  from 
fresh  flowers  will  not  be  unacceptable. 

The  engravings  show  three  of  the  most  common  designs,  wreath,  crown  and  cross  ;  next  to 
these,  the  anchor  is  most  frequently  used.  The  outline  engravings  show  the  forms  made  of  wire, 
and  the  lower  engravings  the  designs  finished.  These  wire  forms  can  be  obtained  at  very  little 
cost,  of  nearly  all  florists  and  wire-workers ;  a  full  set  costs  but,  very  little,  and  can  be 
used  scores  of  times.  These  wire  frames  are  filled  with  damp  moss,  well  packed  in,  and 
secured  at  certain  points  with  light  twine  or  thread,  if  necessary,  to  keep  the  moss  in 
place.  Obtain  a  package  of  the  common  wooden  tooth-picks,  sharpened  at  both  ends, 
and  divide  them  in  the  middle  ;  cut  the  stems  of  the  flowers  short  and  fasten  them  to  these 
picks  with  a  fine  wire  or  thread,  as  shown  in  the  engraving.  Of  course,  these  little 
wooden  spikes  can  be  easily  made,  but  they  cost  comparatively  nothing.  Insert  these 
picks  in  the  moss,  which  will  keep  the  flower  in  just  the  position  desired.  Foliage 
may  be  treated  in  the  same  manner.  A  little  taste,  experience  and  patience  will  soon 
enable  any  one  to  make  these  designs  in  a  rapid  and  artistic  manner;  It  is  well  to  get  a  few  of 
the  mo^t  common  designs  and  keep  on  hand,  so  as  to  be  in  readiness  for  any  occasion. 

FOR    THE    CHURCH. 

All  church  decoration  should  be  neat  and  simple.  It  is  better  to  have  too  little  than  too  much. 
The  church  should  not  be  made  to  resemble  a  vast  conservatory  nor  an  evergreen  bower,  but 
should  appear  like  a  church  tastefully  decorated  in  honor  of  Him  whose  temple  it  is.  The 
wreaths  should  not  be  large  and  heavy,  as  this  gives  a  gloomy  appearance,  but  light  and  airy. 
and  a  few  flowers  or  bright  berries  have  an  enlivening  effect,  especially  if  the  evergreens  are 
dark,  as  our  arborvitaes  and  hemlocks  are  in  winter. 

Most  ladies,  we  presume,  understand  the  making  of  wreaths.  Procure  strong  cord,  and 
fasten  both  ends  to  some  stationary  objects.  Then,  having  the  evergreens  cut  into  small 
branches,  fasten  them  to  the  main  cord  by  winding  with  a  smaller  twine,  working  in  the  flowers 
at  the  same  time.  Crosses,  and  other  designs  can  be  made  of  straw-board  and  covered  as 
previously  described ;  or  if  any  object  very  large  is  required,  the  design  can  be  cut  from  boards. 
Letters  covered  with  rice  are  very  pretty  among  dark  evergreens. 

32 


FOR    THE    HOUSE. 

Decorations  for  the  house  require  to  be  much  lighter  than  for  church  or  any  large  building. 
A  simple  light  wreath  attached  to  the  cornice  has  a  very  pleasant  appearance,  even  if  nothing 
more  is  done,  but  a  little  trimming  around  the  windows  and  doors  add  but  little  to  the  labor,  and 


CEILING     FESTOONED. 


gives  a  completeness  to  the  work  that  more  than  compensates  for  any  extra  trouble.  The 
engraving  shows  a  portion  of  a  room  pretty  elaborately  trimmed,  and  yet  all  the  work  is  light,  and 
the  effect  would  be  pleasing.  If  the  ceiling  is  not  too  low,  a  few  wreaths  or  festoons  suspended 
from  the  cornice  and  looped  up  in  the  center,  somewhat  as  shown  in  the  first  engraving,  is  desir- 
able for  full  decoration.  The  gas  fixtures  should  also  receive  a  little  attention. 


PARLOR    TKIMMKI). 


In  countries  where  the  Ivy  grows  wild  it  is  used  freely  for  decorative  purposes,  and  being  an 
evergreen  it  can  be  obtained  at  all  seasons.  In  America  it  does  not  succeed  so  well,  but  still  can 
often  be  obtained,  as  it  flourishes  abundantly  in  the  house  with  even  half  a  chance,  making  a 
most  rapid  growth.  Its  leaves  are  so  beautiful  and  contrast  so  finely  with  our  common  ever- 
greens that  a  little  Ivy  should  be  procured,  if  possible,  and  used  where  it  will  produce  the  most 

33 


effect.       In  many  sections  of  our  country  the  Laurel    grows    abundantly,  and  we    are    always 
pleased    to    obtain    a    package    from    our    friends    about    Holiday    time.         Its    broad,    green 

leaves,  are  unsurpassed,  even  by  the  Ivy,  for  winter 

decoration.        Smilax    excels    everything    we    are 

acquainted   with    for    tasteful    trimming.       It  is  so 

light   in  appear- 
ance, of  such   a 

clear,      glossy 

green,    that     for 

trimming  dresses 

or  the    hair,   or 

any  light  materi- 
al, we   know  of 

nothing    in    the 

world  its  equal. 

Our      engraving 
:  shows   a  curtain 

trimmed        with 

this        beautiful 

1  plant.       It   is   a 

climbing      vine, 

growing     to      a 

great  length,  and 

can  be  bought  of 

PICTURE   TRIMMED    WITH    IVY.  flonStS        by        the 

yard.       It  succeeds  very  well  in  the  house,  and  may  be  grown  either  from  the  bulbs  or  seeds. 

FOR    THE    TABLE. 

The  subject  of  Floral  Decoration  for  the  table  is  attracting  a  good  deal  of  attention,  and  in 
Europe  prizes  are  awarded  at  many  of  the  Horticultural  exhibitions  for  the  most  highly  orna- 
mented dining  table.  We  have  seen  many  such  on  exhibition,  and  our  objection  to  many  of 
them  has  been  that  the  floral  ornaments  obstructed  the  view,  so  that  persons  sitting  on  one  side 


TABLE  WITH  FLORAL  DECORATIONS. 

of  the  table  could  scarcely  see  their  friends  on  the  other,  much  less  converse  with  them.  The 
accompanying  plan  obviates  this  objection  in  a  great  measure.  The  tall  ornaments  are  of  glass, 
and  very  light,  so  as  to  obstruct  the  view  as  little  as  possible.  The  low  margin  is  glass  troughs 
filled  with  water,  in  which  small  flowers  are  arranged.  These  glass  troughs  are  made  straight, 
and  half  and  quarter  circles,  so  that  combined  they  can  be  made  to  assume  any  form  desired, 
even  letters  and  monograms,  for  which  purposes  we  have  seen  them  used  on  festal  occasions. 
Sometimes  the  central  ornaments  are  omitted,  and  these  flower  borders  surround  and  ornament 
the  Thanksgiving  Turkey. 

34 


BOUQUET     MAKING. 

Arranging  flowers  loosely  and  prettily  and  naturally  in  vases  and  other  ornamental  receptacles 
for  flowers,  is  a  very  easy  work,  requiring  only  good  taste  and  some  knowledge  of  the  harmony 
of  colors.  As  a  rule  ladies  do  this  work  well,  and  need  no  suggestions  from  us.  The  filling  of 
baskets  is  a  little  more  difficult,  because  more 
formal  or  artificial.  First,  line  the  basket  with 
tin  foil,  or  scatter  a  little  Lycopodium  or  other 
green  material,  to  form  a  kind  of  green  lining, 
and  over  this  put  a  lining  of  strong  paper.  If 
the  basket  is  not  so  open  as  to  show  the  lining, 
a  simple  lining  of  paper  will  be  enough.  Then  fill  the 
basket  with  damp  saw-dust,  rounding  it  off  at  the  top  and 
covering  with  damp  moss,  inserting  the  stems  of  the  flow- 
ers in  the  moss.  If  the  natural  stems  are  not  suitable  for 
this  work  the  flowers  can  be  "  stemmed,"  that  is,  fastened  to  sticks,  as 
recommended  for  floral  designs.  It  is  well  to  give  an  edging  or  border 
mainly  of  green.  Very  few  flowers  have  stems  suitable  for  nice  bouquet 
work,  so  it  is  the  custom  to  "  stem"  all  flowers,  that  is,  give  them  artificial 
stems,  and  the  material  used  for  this  purpose  is  broom  brush  or  wire,  to 
which  the  flowers  are  attached  with  spool  cotton  or  fine  wire.  These  stiff 
stems  can  be  made  to  hold  the  flowers  in  any  position  desired.  To  keep 
the  flowers  from  crowding  each  other,  and  also  to  supply  moisture,  it  is 
usual  to  wind  damp  moss  around  the  stem  of  the  flower  at  its  connection  with  the 
artificial  stem.  The  central  flower,  which  is  usually  the  largest,  must  have  a  stiff,  straight  stem, 
as  seen  in  the  engraving,  for  this  really  forms  the  back  bone  of  the  bouquet,  as  well  as  the  handle. 
Fasten  the  steins  of  all  flowers  around  this  central  flower,  as  in  the  small  engraving  of  a  bouquet, 

as  it  would  appear  divided  near  the  middle,  showing  the 
way  the  flowers  are  fastened  to  the  main  stem,  as  well  as 
the  manner  in  which  they  are  kept  from  crowding  each 
other.  After  the  flowers  are  all  properly  attached,  and 
the  bouquet  formed,  cut  off  the  handle  to  the  desired 
length  and 
cover  this  with 
tinfoil,  or  wind 
with  ribbon, 
leaving  a  loop, 
so  that  the 
bouquet  may  be 

suspended  if  desired.  Ornamental  papers,  prepared  for  the  purpose,  are  very  pretty,  and  can  lie 
obtained  at  a  small  price  of  most  florists.  These  cover  the  handle  and  bottom  of  the  bouquet, 
and  also  usually  make  a  quite  ornamental  border.  Our  remarks  are,  of  course,  designed  for 
hand  bouquets,  but  larger  bouquets  are  made  in  the  same  manner,  except  that  they  are  more 
pyramidal  in  form. 

BOUQUET  AND  TRIMMING  GREEN. 

In  this  section  of  the  country,  and   in  many  others,  the  Cedars  and    Hemlocks  are  the  most 
easily  obtained,  and  are  generally  used  to  furnish  the  green  foi  decorative  purposes  in  the  winter. 

There  are,  however,  two 
little  plants  {Lycopoditti>i*\ 
one  known  as  the  Ground 
Pine,  and  the  other  the 
Running  Pine,  and  they  are 
the  prettiest  things  we  know  anything  about  for  winter  trimming,  excepting,  of  course,  Smilax, 
which  is  not  to  be  had  in  large  quantities.  These  Lycopodiums  grow  in  partially  shaded  woods, 
in  hilly  places,  and  usually  on  a  poor,  sandy  soil.  The  Ground  Pine  is  used  in  winter  for  bou- 

35 


quet  making,  and  is  called  Bouquet  Green.  They  are  both  kept  by  florists,  and  sold  at  about 
$5.00  a  barrel.  In  smaller  quantities  the  Ground  Pine  is  sold  at  25  cents  a  pound,  and  the 
Running  Pine  in  packages  of  ten  yards  for  50  cents.  We  give  engravings 
showing  the  appearance  of  each  kind,  the  first  one  being  the  Running  Pine,, 
and  its  adaptation  to  light  festoon 
work  will  be  readily  understood. 
The  Lycopodiums  seem  to  delight 
in  high  hills  and  cold  situations. 

We  have  advised  the  use  of  a 
few  bright  berries  wherever  they 
can  be  obtained,  for  lighting  up 
the  sombre  evergreens  used  for  winter  decoration.  In 
England  the  Holly  furnishes  the  most  brilliant  scarlet, 
and  the  Mistletoe  the  purest  white.  In  many  sections 
of  America  the  American  Holly,  Ilex  opaca,  leaves 
nothing  to  be  desired  in  the  way  of  a  scarlet  berry, 
while  in  others  the  Winter  Berry,  Ilex  verticillata,  ENGLISH  HOLLY. 

/        ,  illuminates  moist  places  until  late  in  the  winter. 

Another  Holly,  Ilex  lisvigata,  known  as  the 
Smooth  Winter  Berry,  abounds  in  the  West, 
we  believe.  We  have  a  good  many  other  berry- 
bearing  plants  that  furnish  the  most  elegant 
berries  in  the  world,  but  unfortunately  they  are 
usually  destroyed  by  frosts  and  storms  before 
Holiday  time;  but  some  of  them  may  be  pre- 
served in  a  cool,  damp  cellar,  the  stems  being 
placed  in  water.  Among  them  we  would  name 
the  Strawberry  Shrub,  Mountain  Ash,  Snow 
Berry  and  Bitter  Sweet,  all  of  which  are  elegant, 
WINTER  BERRY,  (ILEX  VERTICILLATA.)  but  the  Strawberry  Shrub  produces,  we  sometimes 

think,  the  most  beautiful  berry  in  the  world.  At  the  time  we  write  this,  November  22d,  the 
Euonymus  Shrubs  are  ablaze  with  beauty. 

BUTTON-HOLE    FLOWERS. 

It  is  not  loug  ago,  at  least  it  does  not  seem  long  to  us,  when  any  gentleman  who  wore  a 
flower  in  the  button-hole  of  his  coat,  or  any  lady  who  adorned  hair  or  dress  with  a  few  flowers, 

would  be  thought  vain, 
silly,  foppish,  etc.  We 
well  remember,  some 
years  since,  when  spend- 
ing a  day  or  two  with 
some  English  friends 
between  Port  Hope  and 
Rice  Lake,  once  when 
we  were  in  the  carriage, 
just  ready  to  start  on  an 
excursion,  the  gentle- 
man hastily  jumped  from 
the  carriage,  requesting 
the  driver  to  wait  a  min- 
ute, as  he  had  forgotten 
the  button-hole  flowers. 
He  soon  returned  from 
the  garden  with  flowers 

for  all,  which  soon  adorned  coats  and  dresses.  It  seemed  very  strange  for  an  old  gentleman 
to  act  so,  and  yet  it  was  very  thoughtful  and  pretty.  Flowers  are  now  worn  on  all  festive 
occasions,  even  in  this  country,  and  nowhere  are  they  more  prized. 

36 


BUTTON-HOLE   BOUQUET. 


BUTTON-HOLE    FLOWER. 


water  and  attached  to 
fresh  for  a  day  or  two. 


In  the  first  place,  there  is  the  Button-hole  Bouquet,  proper,  which  is  composed  of  a  few  very 
fine  flowers  tastefully  arranged,  as  shown  in  our  engraving.  This  must  not  be  confounded  with 
the  Button-hole  Flower,  which  is  simply  a  single  flower,  like  a  rose-bud,  or  a  Tuberose,  with  some 
pretty,  sweet-scented  leaf  for  a  back-ground,  which  we  have  also  attempted  to  illustrate.  Both  are 
good.  No  leaves  are  more  desirable  for  this  purpose  than  the  sweet-scented  Geraniums,  and  we  give 

figures  of  the  best  kinds.       Plants  of  either  of  these  can 

be    obtained     at     30 

cents  each,   and   one 

or  two  plants  will  fur- 
nish   all    the    leaves 

that  will  be  needed. 
It  will  be  seen  that 

the  button-hole   flow. 

er  is  merely  attached 

to  the  stem  of  the  leaf 

by  a  thread  or  string. 

This  is  designed  to  be 
?Bls3^£?  inserted   in  the   little 

*  -^  Bouquet  Holder, 

which    is    filled   with  APPLE. 

coat,  dress    or  hair  by  the  pin.       In  this  way   the  flowers  will  keep 
The  button-hole  bouquet  is  arranged  differently.       The  stems  of  the 
flowers  are  covered  with  a  little  damp  moss  or  cotton,  the  whole  being  surrounded  with  tin-foil, 

and  fastened  to  the  coat  or  dress  with  a  common  pin. 

Of  course,  the  holder  may  be  used  with  either,  or  both 

may   be   arranged  for 

tin-foil.        The    Bou- 
quet Holder  is  of  glass, 

of  any  color  desired, 

and  costs,  by  mail,  20 

cents  each. 

The  Balm  and  Ap- 
ple-leaved Geraniums, 

particularly  the  latter, 

are     great      favorites 

with   every    one,  and 

are  useful  for  many  or- 
namental      purposes. 

The  very  beautiful  cut  foliage  of  the  J?osea.nd  Dr.  Livingston  Geraniums  are  sufficiently  attractive 
in  form  alone  to  insure  general  popularity,  but  when  added  to  this  is  their  delicate  and  delightful 
fragrance,  we  know  we  shall  be  pardoned  for  urging  every 
one  who  cultivates  flowers  to  secure  at  least  one  of  these 
plants.  They  grow  easily  from  slips,  and  do  nicely  in  The 
house,  and  when  once  secured,  there  will  be  no  necessity 
for  again  purchasing  during  a  life-time,  for  in  the  early 
autumn  slips  can  be  taken  off,  and  potted  for  winter  use  in  the  house,  and  in  the  early  spring 
slips  can  be  potted,  and  in  three  or  four  weeks  they  will  be  sufficiently  rooted  to  transfer  to  the 
open  ground. 


TV. 


DR.    LIVINGSTON. 


BOUQUET   HOLDER. 


WATER    GARDENING. 


We  have  not  heretofore  spoken  of  a  species  of  gardening  that,  perhaps,  will  be  new  to  many 
of  our  readers,  WATER  GARDENING.  We  all  love  to  wander  along  the  streams  in  the  summer 

time,  and  gather  the  wild  flowers  that 
adorn  their  banks,  yet  few  may  have 
thought  of  cultivating  those  cold  water 
plants  in  the  low  meadow  near  the  woods, 
or  in  the  shallow  water  by  the  banks  of 
the  brook.  A  notice  of  a  few  of  our  best 
common  water  plants  may  be  profitable. 
Among  the  many  beautiful  flowers  that 
adorn  our  world  there  are  none  more 

NUPHAR  ADVENA.  KYMPH.EA    ODOKATA.  gOrgCOUS  than  the  WATER   LlLIES. 

Nuphar  advena  is  the  common  yellow  WTater  Lily,  that  abounds  almost  everywhere,  we 
believe,  in  our  Middle,  Northern  and  Western  States.  It  is  a  showy  flower,  and  stands  well  up 
from  the  water,  on  a  strong  stem,  as  shown  in  the  engraving. 

Nymphcea   odorata    is  the   most  beautiful   of   all  our    native   Water   Lilies.        It  is   usually 
as   white  as  snow,   though  occasionally  highly  tinted  with  pink,  and  as  fragrant  as  a  Violet. 
It  generally  sits   gracefully   upon  the  water,   though,    in   shallow   places,   the  flower    is    some- 
times borne  above  the  surface. 

NympJuza  tuberose  is  larger 
than  Nymphtza  odorata,  not  very 
fragrant,  and  never  tinted  with 
pink. 

Calla  palustris  is  our  native 
Calla,  and  is  quite  common  in 
many  portions  of  the  North.  The 
root  stocks  were  formerly,  we 
believe,  gathered  and  eaten  by 
the  Indians,  as  they  yield  con- 
siderable starch. 

Sagittaria  sagittifolia. — This 
is  a  very  handsome  aquatic,  with 
arrow-headed  leaves,  from  which 
It  is  common  in  half  the  world. 


TYPHA    LATIFOLIA. 


its  name  is  derived, 
for  the  bulbs,  for  food. 

Pontederia  cor  dot  a, 
commonly  called  Pick- 
erel-weed, is  common 
over  a  large  section  of 
our  country.  It  is  found 
in  shallow  water,  is  a 
vigorous  plant,  with 
long-stalked  leaves,  of 
the  arrow-head  form, 
with  a  one-leaved  stem, 
terminated  bv  a  spike 


IRIS   VERSICOLOK. 

In  China  it  is  cultivated  extensively 
It  is  very  common  in  all  our  inland  waters,  creeks  and  swamps. 

of  puqilish-blue  flowers. 
Ranunculus  aqua  tills 
is  a  beautitul  little  plant, 
particularly  in  foliage. 
It  is  called  the  Water 
Crowfoot.  The  flowers 
are  white,  l>orne  well 
up  above  the  water. 

Caltha palustris.  This, 
we  think,  every  one  will 

CALTHA   PALUSTRIS.      MENYANTHES   TKIFOLIATA. 


recognize    as    the   well- 
known  Cowslip,  used  by  housewives  in  the  spring  for  "  greens,"  and  often  sold  in  our  markets. 

Menyanthes  trifoliata,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  our  aquatic  plants,  is  found  in  cold  bogs 
all  over  the  North.     The  flowers  are  pink  and  white,  and  delicately  fringed. 

Typha  latifolia  is   the  well-known  Cat's-tail  Flag,   and   often   erroneously   called    Bullrush, 
which  is  quite  another  plant. 

Iris  versicolor.  —  Almost   every  one  is  acquainted  with  some  of  the  garden  varieties  of  Iris, 
but  there  are  many  who  never  saw  our  native  I.  versicolor  flowering  on  the  banks  of  streams. 

38 


CLASSIFICATION    AND    NAMES    OP    FLOWERS. 


The  flowering  plants  of  our  gardens,  besides  shrubs,  trees,  &c.,  are  HERBACEOUS  PEREN- 
NIALS, BIENNIALS,  ANNUALS  and  BULBOUS. 

HERBACEOUS  PERENNIALS  are  plants  which  die  down  to  the  ground  every  autumn,  but  tha 
roots  continue  to  live,  and  new  branches  and  flower  stems  are  thrown  up  for  many  years.  Some 
continue  indefinitely,  but  others  die  after  three  or  four  years,  like  the  Sweet  William  ;  but  if  the 
roots  are  divided  every  year,  they  will  continue  to  live  and  increase.  These  are  called  Imperfect 
Perennials. 

BIENNIALS  are  those  that  flower  the  second  season  after  the  seed  is  sown,  and  then  die,  unless 
particular  care  is  taken  to  preserve  them,  by  dividing  the  roots,  or  retarding  the  flowering  at 
the  usual  time  by  removing  the  buds.  Some  of  these  classes  flower  the  same  season  under  favor- 
able circumstances,  as  when  the  seed  is  sown  early. 

ANNUALS  flower  the  first  season,  perfect  their  seeds,  and  then  die.  Some  varieties  that  are 
grown  as  Annuals  in  a  Northern  climate,  are  either  Perennials  or  Biennials  in  their  Southern 
home,  where  there  are  no  severe  frosts.  Annuals  flower  in  a  few  weeks  or  months  after  being 
planted,  and  can  be  depended  upon  for  a  brilliant  show.  Annuals  are  classed  as  hardy ;  half- 
hardy  and  tender.  Hardy  Annuals  are  those  that,  like  the  Larkspur,  Candytuft,  &c.,  may  be 
sown  in  the  autumn  or  very  early  in  the  spring,  in  the  open  ground.  The  half-hardy  varie- 
ties will  not  endure  frost,  and  should  not  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  until  danger  from  frost 
is  over.  The  Balsam  and  the  Marigolds  belong  to  this  class.  The  tender  Annuals  generally 
require  starting  in  a  green-house  or  hot-bed  to  bring  them  to  perfection,  and  should  not  be 
set  in  the  open  ground  until  the  weather  is  quite  warm.  The  Cypress  Vine  and  the  Sensitive 
Plant  belong  to  this  class;  but,  fortunately,  very  few  of  our  fine  Annuals.  Some  of  them  do 
tolerably  well  if  sown  in  the  open  ground  the  latter  part  of  May,  but  very  great  success  is  not  to 
be  expected  in  this  way.  It  must  be  admitted,  however,  that  these  distinctions  are  not  well 
defined,  and  it  is  difficult  to  say  where  some  kinds  belong.  In  a  climate  sufficiently  South,  of 
course,  those  kinds  we  describe  as  tender  are  perfectly  hardy. 

BULBS  are  divided  into  Hardy,  Holland  and  Tender.  The  Hardy  includes  all  that  will  bear 
a  Northern  winter.  Holland,  those  exclusively  grown  in  Holland,  like  Hyacinths,  Crocuses, 
Tulips,  &c.  Tender,  those,  like  the  Gladioli  and  Tuberose,  that  will  not  bear  freezing,  and 
therefore  must  be  planted  in  the  spring. 


We  make  a  rather  different  division  in  this  work,  and  one  which,  we  think,  will  be  found 
quite  convenient. 

1st.  ALL  KINDS  that  PRODUCE  FLOWERS  the  same  SEASON  the  SEED  is  SOWN,  are  arranged  in 
one  Department,  under  the  heading  of  ANNUALS.  This  Department  includes  the  following  sub- 
divisions :  Climbers,  Everlastings  and  Ornamental  Grasses. 

ad.  Under  the  name  of  PERENNIALS,  all  plants  produced  from  seed  that  bloom  the  second 
season  after  planting. 

jd.  GREENHOUSE,  describing  the  leading  plants  grown  from  seeds  adapted  to  Greenhouse 
culture. 

4th.  BULBS  AND  PLANTS.  This  Department  has  two  divisions  :  Tender  Bulbs  and  Tubers, 
embracing  all  those  tender  bulbs,  like  the  Dahlia,  Gladiolus,  Tuberose,  &c.,  that  will  not  bear 
frost,  and  consequently  must  be  planted  only  in  the  spring  in  a  Northern  climate.  Hardy  Plants 
and  Bulbs,  embracing  all  the  Lilies,  Paeonies,  and  other  things  that  will  endure  our  winters,  and 
consequently  can  be  planted  either  in  the  fall  or  spring. 

5th.  HOLLAND  BULBS.  This  Department  embraces  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  and  all  other  Bulbs 
known  as  Holland  Bulbs,  and  these  must  be  planted  in  the  autumn. 

To  aid  in  a  inore  general  understanding  of  the  subject  we  give  a  GLOSSARY,  explaining  and 
illustrating  the  botanical  terms  in  most  common  use,  and  also  a  PRONOUNCING  VOCABULARY  of 
BOTANICAL  NAMES,  which  will  serve  as  a  guide  to  their  proper  pronunciation,  and  give  much 
information  regarding  their  origin  and  meaning. 

39 


Alternate    Leaves 


Ament  or  Catkin. 


Leaf   with   auricu- 
late  base. 


Axillary  Bud. 


Labiate  or  Bilabi- 
ate Corolla. 


BOTANICAL    GLOSSARY. 

ABORTIVE  :    Imperfectly  developed. 

ACHENIUM  :    A  small,  hard,  seed-like  fruit. 

ACULEATE  :    Furnished  with  prickles. 

ALA  :  A  wing ;  plural  al<z ;  the  side  petals  of  a  papilio- 
naceous flower.  See  Wing. 

ALATE  :    Winged  ;  as  the  seeds  of  the  Maple,  Elm,  &c. 

ALTERNATE  :  Leaves  are  said  to  be  alternate  when  they 
are  situated  first  on  one  side  then  on  another  of  the 
stem  or  branch,  but  not  opposite  to  each  other. 

AMENT  :    A  scaly  spike,  as  the  Willow  :  a  catkin. 

ANTHER  :  The  head  and  essential  part  of  the  stamen, 
containing  the  pollen. 

APETALOUS  :    Destitute  of  petals. 

AURICULATE  :  Having  lobes  or  appendages  like  the  ear, 
as  at  the  base  of  some  leaves. 

AXIL  :    The  angle  or  upper  side  between  a  leaf  and  stem. 

AXILLARY  (buds,  &c.) :    Situated  in  the  axil. 

BELL-SHAPED  :    Having  a  bell-form. 

BERRY  :  A  fruit,  pulpy  or  juicy  throughout ;  as  the 
Gooseberry,  Cranberry,  Tomato,  &c. 

BILABIATE  :    Two  lipped ;  as  the  corolla  of  the  Salvia,  &c. 

BRACT  :  A  small  leaf  or  scale,  from  the  axil  of  which  a 
flower  or  its  pedicel  proceeds.  Bracts  in  general,  are 
the  leaves  of  an  inflorescence  more  or  less  different 
from  ordinary  leaves. 

BRACTLET  :    A  bract  on  the  pedicel  or  flower-stalk. 

BULB  :  A  roundish  body  produced  by  a  plant  either  above 
or  below  the  ground,  (usually  the  latter,)  and  which  is 
really  a  bud.  It  consists  of  a  cluster  of  partially  de- 
veloped leaves,  and  as  it  grows  it  produces  a  stem  and 
roots ;  as  the  Tulip,  Lily,  &c. 

CALYX  :  The  outer  covering  or  leaf-like  envelope  of  a 
bud  or  flower,  as  shown  at  A  in  the  engraving. 

CAMPANULATE  :    Bell-shaped. 

CAPSULE  :  Any  dry  seed  vessel  or  pod  which  opens  by 
seams  in  a  regular  way. 

CARPEL  :  A  simple  pistil,  or  one  of  the  parts  of  a  com- 
pound pistil. 

CATKIN  :    A  scaly,  deciduous  spike  of  flowers;  an  ament. 

ClLlATE :  Having  the  margin  furnished  with  a  fringe  of 
hairs  or  bristles  like  the  eyelashes  fringing  the  eyelids. 

CLAW  :    The  narrow  base  of  some  petals. 

CORDATE:    Heart-shaped;  as  a  cordate  leaf. 


Campanulate    or 
Bell-shaped. 


Bracts 


Bulbs. 


Calyx. 


Capsule. 


Petal  of  Pink  ;  C, 
Claw. 


Cordate  Leaf. 


Flower  of  Fuchsia. 
B  is  the  Corolla. 


40 


C,  C,  Cotyledons, 
or  Seed  Leaves  of 
a  young  plant. 


Corymb. — Phlox. 


Dentate  Leaf. 


Digitate         Leaf. 
Horsechestnut. 


Disk. 


Drupe. 


An    Emarginate 
Leaflet. 


CORM  :     A  solid  bulb,  like  that  of  the  Gladiolus  and  Crocus. 
COROLLA  :    Inner   covering   of   a   flower ;    name  of  the 

petals  taken  collectively. 
CORYMB  :    A  flat  or  convex  flower  cluster,  in  which  the 

flower-stalks    or   peduncles    are    produced    alternately 

along  the   common  stalk  and  rise  to  the  same  height, 

so  as  to  form  a  flat  or  slightly  rounded  surface,  and  the 

expansion  of  the  flowers  proceeds  regularly  from  the 

circumference  to  the  center ;  as  in  Phlox  Drummondii. 
COTYLEDONS  :  Seed  lobes  ;  the  first  leaves  in  the  embryo. 
CYME  :  A  flower  cluster  resembling  a  corymb  in  form, 

but  differing  from   it  by  the  expansion  of  the  flowers 

from  the  center  to  the  circumference. 
DEFLEXED  :    Bent  downwards. 
DEHISCENCE  :    The   mode    in   which   an   anther  or  pod 

bursts  or  splits  open. 

DEHISCENT  :    Opening  in  a  regular  manner  by  dehiscence. 
DENTATE  :    Toothed. 
DIGITATE  :     A  compound  leaf  is  said  to  be  digitate  when 

all  of  its  leaflets  start  out  from  the  apex  of  the  petiole. 
DISK  :  The  central  part  of  a  head  of  flowers,  like  the 

Sunflower,  in  distinction  from  the  flowers  at  the  margin 

called  the  ray.     An  enlarged  part  of  the  receptacle. 
DOWNY  :    Clothed  with  a  coat  of  soft  and  short  hairs. 
DRUPE  :    A  stone  fruit. 
EMARGINATE  :    Notched  at  the  summit. 
EMBRYO  :    The  rudiment  of  the  plant  in  the  seed. 
EQUITANT  :    {Riding  straddle)  :     Leaves  are  said  to  be 

equitant  when  their  bases  or  edges  alternately  overlap 

each  other,  as,  the  equitant  leaves  of  the  Iris. 
EXTRORSE  :  Turned  outwards  :  the  anther  is  extrorse  when 

fixed  to  the  outside  of  the  filament  and  faces  the  petals. 
FASCICLE  :  A  close  cluster ;  a  cyme  with  the  flowers  much 

crowded  ;   as  the  Sweet  William. 
FEATHER-VEINED  :    Veins  proceeding  from  a  mid-rib  at 

an  acute  angle. 
FROND  :     The  leafy  part  of  a  fern ;  a  combination  of  leaf 

and  stem,  as  in  many  Algae  and  Liverworts. 
GAMOPETALOUS  :     Having  the  petals  united  so  as  to  form 

a  tube ;  monopetalous. 

GENUS  :     A  class  more  extensive  and  higher  than  a  species. 
GERM  :     A  growing  point ;  a  bud ;  that  which  is  to  develop 

an  embryo. 

HABIT  :    The  appearance  and  mode  of  growth  of  a  plant. 
HERBACEOUS  :    Of  the  texture  of  herbs ;  not  woody. 


Embryo. 


Equitant  Leaves. 


Feather- veined 
Leaf. 


Frond  of  Fern ;  E 
frond ;  F  stipe. 


Convolvulus ;  gam- 
opetalous  flower. 


I 


C,    Internode  ;   D, 
Node  or  Joint. 


G,  Involucre. 


Laciniate  Leaf. 


41 


Lanceolate  Leaf. 


Rose  Leaf,  show- 
ing five  leaflets. 


Legume. 


A  Leaf  with  lobes. 


Beet  Leaf,  show- 
ing mid-rib. 


Opposite  Leaves  of 
Nummularia. 


HIRSUTE:     Hiiry;  having  stiffish  or  beard- like  hairs. 

HORTUS  SlCCUS  :  An  herbarium,  or  collection  of  dried 
plants. 

HYBRID  :    A  cross  between  two  allied  species. 

INSERTION  :  The  mode  or  place  of  attachment  of  an  organ. 

INTERNODE  :    The  part  of  a  stem  between  the  nodes. 

INTRORSK  :  Turned  inwards ;  an  anther  is  introrse  when 
it  faces  the  pistils. 

INVOLUCRE  :  A  whorl  or  set  of  bracts  around  a  flower, 
umbel,  or  head,  as  shown  at  G  in  the  engraving. 

LABIATE  :    Lipped ;  bilabiate. 

LACINIATE  :  Cut  irregularly  into  deep,  narrow  lobes ; 
slashed. 

LANCEOLATE  :     Lance-shaped. 

LEAFLET  :  One  of  the  parts  or  divisions  of  a  compound 
leaf,  as  seen  in  the  Horsechestnut  leaf.  (See  engrav- 
ing of  digitate  leaf.) 

LEGUME  :  The  fruit  of  a  leguminous  plant ;  as  the  pod 
of  a  pea;  a  single,  two-valved  carpel. 

LOBE  :  Any  projection  or  division,  especially  of  a  some- 
what rounded  form. 

LoMENT  :  A  pod  like  the  legume,  of  two  valves,  but 
divided  into  small  cells,  each  containing  a  single  seed. 

MACULATE  :    Spotted. 

MARGINATE  :  Having  an  edge  or  margin  different  from 
the  rest. 

MIDRIB  :    The  middle  or  main  rib  of  a  leaf. 

NEEDLE-SHAPED  :  Long,  slender  and  rigid,  like  the 
leaves  of  pines. 

NERVE  :  A  name  for  the  ribs  or  veins  of  leaves  when 
simple  and  parallel. 

NETTKD-VEINED  :  Furnished  with  branching  veins  form- 
ing net- work. 

NODE  :  A  knot ;  the  joint  of  a  stem  from  which  springs 
a  leaf  or  a  pair  of  leaves. 

OBCORDATE  :  Heart-shaped,  with  the  attachment  by  the 
pointed  end. 

OBLANCEOLATE  :  Lance-shaped,  with  the  attachment  at 
the  tapering  point. 

OBOVATE  :    Ovate,  but  with  the  broad  end  upward. 

OPPOSITE  :  Placed  on  opposite  sides  of  some  other  body  ; 
thus  when  leaves  are  opposite  they  are  on  opposite  sides 
of  the  stem  ;  and  petals  on  opposite  sides  of  flowers. 

ORBICULAR  :    Circular  in  outline,  or  nearly  so. 


Orbicular   Leaf   of 
Tropaeolum. 


Oval  Leaf. 


4-2 


Pistil,  with  Ovary 
laid  open,  show- 
ing the  ovules. 


Leaf  of  Begonia 
Rex,  showing  the 
netted  veins. 


O  bcordateLeaflets 
Oxalis  Bowei. 


Oblanceolate  Leaf 


Obovate  Leaf. 


Ovate  Leaf. 


Thistle  Seed,  with 
crown  of  pappus. 


>4  Wallflower.  Ped- 
uncle M,  and 
pedicel  N. 


Peltate,  or  shield- 
shaped  leaf. 


Pepo.  Cucumbers. 


OVAI,  :     Broadly  elliptical. 

OVARY  :  That  part  of  the  pistil  containing  the  ovules  or 
future  seeds,  and  in  the  course  of  development  becomes 
the  fruit. 

OVATE  :   Egg-shaped  ;  like  the  section  of  an  egg  lengthwise. 

PALMATK:  Digitate  (see  p.  27);  resembling  the  hand 
with  the  outspread  fingers  ;  spreading  from  the  apex  of 
a  petiole  as  the  leaflets  or  divisions  of  a  leaf. 

PANICLE  :  An  open  flower  cluster  more  or  less  branched, 
after  the  style  of  a  head  of  oats. 

PAPPUS  :  Thistle-down,  and  the  similar  formation  in 
other  flowers. 

PEDICEL  :     The  stalk  of  each  single  flower  of  a  cluster. 

PEDUNCLE  :  A  flower  stalk  of  a  single  flower  when  borne 
singly,  or  of  a  cluster. 

PELTATE  :  Shield-shaped ;  applied  to  a  leaf  when  the 
petiole  is  attached  to  its  lower  surface. 

PEPO  :     A  fruit  like  the  Melon  and  Cucumber. 

PERIANTH  :  All  the  flower-leaves  taken  collectively  when 
they  appear  so  much  alike  that  they  cannot  be  dis- 
tinguished as  calyx  and  corolla  ;  as,  for  example,  in 
the  flowers  of  the  Lily  family. 

PERICARP  :  The  ripened  ovaiy ;  the  shell  or  rind  of  any 
fruit  taken  as  a  whole.  When  it  separates  into  layers 
each  layer  may  have  a  different  name,  but  the  whole 
taken  together  constitutes  the  pericarp. 

PETAL  :    A  leaf  of  the  corolla. 

PETIOLE  :    A  leaf-stalk. 

PINNATE  :  P'eather-shaped  ;  a  pinnate  leaf  consists  of 
several  leaflets  arranged  on  each  side  of  a  common 
petiole. 

PISTIL  :  The  central  and  seed-bearing  organ  of  the 
flower,  consisting  of  three  parts,  the  ovary,  the  style 
and  the  stigma. 

PLUMOSE  :  Feathery ;  when  any  slender  body  is  beset 
with  hairs  along  its  sides,  like  the  plume  or  beards  on 
a  feather. 

POLLEN  :     The  fertilizing  dust  or  powder  of  the  anther. 

PYRAMIDAL  :     Shaped  like  a  pyramid. 

RACEME  :  A  flower  cluster  with  the  flowers  arranged 
singly,  on  short  pedicils,  along  the  common  flower- 
stalk  ;  as  the  Lily  of  the  Valley  and  the  Dicentra. 

RACHIS  (the  backbone)  :    The  axis  of  a  spike. 

RADIATE  or  RADIANT  :  Furnished  with  ray-flowers  dis- 
tinct from  disk  flowers  ;  as  in  the  Sunflower,  &c. 


Perianth. 


Pericarps  :    Hazel- 
nut,  Pea  &  Cherry. 


Nemophila,   show 
ing  its  five  petals. 


Pelargonium  Leaf. 
O,  Petiole. 


Pinnate  Leaf  of 
Clianthus. 


Pistil.       Ovary    J  ; 
Style,  I;  Stigma,  H 


Anther,     discharg 
ing  pollen. 


Raceme      of 
Dicentra. 

43 


Gaillardia.        Ray 

flowers      around 
the  margin. 


Reflexed  Segments 
of  Perianth. 


Revolute  Segments 
of  Perianth. 


A  Ringent  Corolla. 
Salvia. 


Rhizome  or  Root- 
stock. 


Rotate      Flower. 
Potato  Blossom. 


Sagittate  Leaf. 


Leaf  with  Sinuate 
Margin. 


RADICAL  :  Pertaining  to  the  root,  or  apparently  coming 
from  the  root. 

RADICLE  :    The  first  root  of  a  plant  in  the  embryo. 

RAY  :  A  marginal  floret  of  a  compound  flower ;  as  in 
the  Aster,  Sunflower,  &c. ;  the  branch  of  an  umbel. 

RECEPTACLE  :  Head  of  a  flower-stalk  from  which  the  or- 
gans of  a  flower  grow  or  into  which  they  are  inserted. 

RKFLEXED  :    Bent  outwards  or  backward. 

REVOLUTE  :     Rolled  backward. 

RINGENT  :    Grinning,  gaping  open. 

RIB  :  One  of  the  principal  pieces  of  the  framework  of 
a  leaf. 

ROOTLETS  :    Little  roots  or  root-branches. 

RooTSTOCK  :  Root-like  stem  under  ground  ;  an  under- 
ground stem. 

ROTATE  :  Wheel-shaped ;  a  monopetalous  corolla,  ex- 
panding into  a  flattish  border,  with  scarcely  any  tube. 

RUGOSE  :    Wrinkled,  roughened  with  wrinkles. 

SAGITTATE  :    Arrow-shaped. 

SCABROUS  :    Rough  to  the  touch. 

SCANDENT  :     Climbing. 

SCAPE  :  A  peduncle  or  flower-stalk  rising  from  the  crown 
of  a  root. 

SEPAL  :    A  single  part  or  division  of  the  calyx. 

SERRATE  :  Toothed,  like  a  saw ;  having  the  margin  cut 
into  teeth  pointing  forward. 

SERRULATE  :    Same  as  "  serrate,"  but  with  fine  teeth. 

SESSILE  :  Sitting ;  without  a  stalk  ;  as  a  leaf  without  a 
petiole,  or  anther  without  a  filament. 

SlLICLE :    A  short  and  broad  pod  of  the  Cress  family. 

SlLlQUE  :    A  long  pod  peculiar  to  the  Cress  family. 

SINUATE  :    Strongly  wavy. 

SPADIX  :    A  fleshy  spike  of  flowers. 

SPATHE  :    A  sheathing  bract  which  envelopes  a  spadix. 

SPICATE  :    Pertaining  to  or  resembling  a  spike. 

SPIKE  :  A  flower-cluster  in  which  the  flowers  are  sessile 
on  the  axis  or  rachis,  as  in  the  Mullein. 

SPINE  :    A  thorn. 

SPINDLE-SHAPED  :    Tapering  to  each  end  like  a  Radish. 

SPINOSE  :    Thorny. 

STAMEN  :  One  of  the  essential  organs  of  a  flower,  which 
secretes  and  furnishes  the  pollen  or  fertilizing  dust ;  it 
consists  of  two  parts,  the  anther  and  the  filament. 

STAMINATE  :    Furnished  with  stamens. 

STELLATE  :    Starry  ;  arranged  in  rays  like  those  of  a  star. 


Calla  Spathe,    en 
closing  Spadix. 


Spike  of  Gladiolus. 


44 


Spines. 


A  Scape.     Tulip. 


Trillium.  S,  sepals 


Sessile  Leaves. 


Silique  of  Mustard. 


Stamen. 


Pistil,     showing 
Stigma  at  H. 


Mushroom,    show- 
ing Stipe  or  Stem. 


Leaf,  with  pair  of 
Stipules. 


Raspberry,    show- 
ing Stolon  at  S. 


Pistil,      Style  at  I. 


STIQMA  :    The  part  of  the  pistil  which  receives  the  pollen. 
STIPE  :     The  stalk  of  a   pistil ;  the  stem  of  a  Fern  ;  the 

stem  of  a  Mushroom  or  of  any  fungus. 
STIPULATE  :    Furnished  with  stipules. 
STIPULE  :    An  appendage  at  each  side  of  the  base  of  some 
petioles  or  leaves ;  resembling  small  leaves  in  texture 
and  appearance. 

STOLON  :    Trailing,  rooting  shoots. 
STYLE  :    The  middle  part  of  the  pistil  which  bears  the 

stigma. 

SUBULATE  :    Awl-shaped. 
TENDRIL  :    A  spiral  shoot   that   twines  around   another 

body  for  support. 

THROAT  :    The  orifice  of  a  monopetalous  corolla. 
THYRSE  or  THRYSUS  :    A  compact   panicle,   of  a   pyra- 
midal or  oblong  shape  ;  such  as  a  cluster  of  the  Lilac 
or  Horsechestnut. 
TOMENTOSE  :    Wooly ;  covered  with  close,  short  hair,  so 

as  to  be  perceptible  by  the  touch. 
TORUS  :    The  receptacle  of  the  flower. 
TRUNCATE  :    Appearing  as  if  cut  off  at  the  tip. 
TUBE  :    The  tubular  part  of  a  monopetalous  corolla,  as 

distinguished  from  the  spreading  border  or  limb. 
TUBER  :    A  thickened  portion  of  an  underground  stem, 

provided  with  eyes  (buds)  on  the  sides,  as  a  Potato. 
TUMID  :    Swollen. 

UMBEL  :    A  flower-cluster,  in  which  all  the  pedicels  spring 

from  the  same  point,  and  the  expansion  of  the  flowers 

or  infloresence  is  from  the  circumference  to  the  center. 

UNDULATE  :    Wavy ;  wavy  margined. 

VEIN  :    One  of  the   small  ribs  or  fine  branches  of  the 

framework  of  the  leaves. 
VEINLET  :    One  of  the  smaller  veins. 
VENATION  :    The  arrangement  of  the  veins  of  leaves,  &c. 
VENTRICOSE  :    Inflated  or  swelled  out  on  one  side. 
VERSATILE  :    Swinging,  as  the  anthers  of  the  Lily. 
VlLLOSE  :     Shaggy,  with  long  and  soft  hairs. 
Viscous,  VISCID  :    Glutinous,  clammy. 
WAVY  :     The   surface  or  margin  alternately  convex  and 

concave. 
WHORL  :    Arranged  in  a  circle  around  a  stem ;  applied 

to  leaves,  flowers,  bracts,  &c. 

WING  :    Any  kind   of  membranous    expansion  ;  the  two 
lateral  petals  of  a  papilionaceous  flower. 


T,  Tendril. 


Gloxinea.       T, 
Tube. 


Thyrse.     Lilac. 


Truncate  Leaf. 


Tuber  of  Madeira 
Vine. 


Umbel. 


Versatile      anthers 
of  the  Lily. 


Whorl   of  Leaves. 


Winged.      Seed  of 
Maple. 


Pea  Flower.  W, 
W,  Wing ;  B, 
Banner;  K,  Keel. 


PRONOUNCING    VOCABULARY     OF    BOTANICAL    NAMES. 

This  Vocabulary  contains  the  Botanical  names  of  the  orders,  genera  and  species  or  sub-species  that  are  men- 
tioned in  the  FLORAL  GUIDE  and  FLOWER  AND  VEGETABLE  GARDEN.  It  does  not  include  the  names  of  varieties. 

The  accent  (')  shows  the  accented  syllable. 

The  words  are  divided  into  syllables,  and  each  syllable  should  be  separately  pronounced  in  the  usual  manner 
of  such  combinations  of  letters. 

In  some  cases,  the  division  into  syllables  has  been  made  to  indicate  the  correct  sounds  rather  than  to  be  critically 
exact.  In  names  derived  from  the  names  of  persons,  the  form  of  the  proper  name  has  been  preserved,  without 
reference  to  the  exact  division  of  the  syllables,  in  all  cases  where  it  could  be  done,  and  at  the  same  time  the  correct 
pronunciation  indicated. 

The  letter  a  at  the  end  of  a  word  has  always  the  sound  of  a  in  papa  •  e  final,  or  preceding  a  final  consonant  has 
its  long  sound ;  i  unaccented,  if  final,  sounds  as  if  written  eye,  but  when  it  ends  a  syllable,  not  final,  it  has  the 
sound  of  e,  as  Drummondii,  (Drummond  e  eye.);  y  is  subject  to  the  same  rules  as  i. 

The  diphthongs  «•  and  if  have  the  sound  of  e ;  and  ch  has  the  sound  of  k. 

FORMATION  OF  SOME  BOTANICAL  NAMES.  —  Names  of  genera  are  sometimes  formed  from  those  of  persons,  to 
compliment  or  commemorate  them  ;  in  such  cases  the  termination  a  or  ia  is  added,  as  Mandevilla  from  Mandeville, 
Bouvardia  from  Bouvard. 

The  name  of  a  species  is  sometimes  derived  from  the  name  of  its  discoverer,  or  of  the  person  who  first  described 
it,  in  which  case  the  name  terminates  in  i  or  ii,  as  Sanfordii  from  Sanford.  When  commemorative  names  are 
given  merely  in  compliment  to  a  person  they  terminate  in  ianus,  iana.  or  ianuin,  as  Hookeriana.  Sometimes 
this  termination  is  also  given  to  the  names  of  countries,  as  Arkansianum,  Africanum,  &c. 

A  BRO' NI  A — From  the  Greek  word,  abros,  delicate;    )   A  MA  RYL'  us  —  The  name  of  a  Nymph  celebrated  by 
referring  to  the  involucre.  the  poet  Virgil. 


A  BU'  TI  LON  —  An  ancient  name  of  a  plant  of  the  same 

family,  now  transferred  to  this  one. 

A  CAN  THA'  CE  x.  —  A    natural   order,    of    which    the 
genus  Acanthus  is  a  type  ;  name  derived  from  akan- 
thos,  a  spine,  some  of  the  species  being  spiny. 
A  CAU'  LIS  —  Stemless. 

Ac  RO  CLI'  NI  UM  (i  short)  —  Derivation  unknown. 
AD  LU'  MI  A  —  Named  in  honor  of  John  Adlum. 
A  DO'  NIS  —  This  plant  is  fabled  to  have  sprung  from 
the  blood  of  Adonis,  when  wounded  by  a  wild  boar; 
alluding  to  the  blood-red  color  of  some  of  the  species. 
JE'  GI  LOPS  —  A  Latin  name  of  a  Jdisease  of  the  eye, 

for  which  this  plant  has  been  supposed  to  be  useful, 
-its  TI  VA'  us,  JEs'  TI  VUM  —  Pertaining  to  summer. 
AF  FI'  NIS  —  Allied  or  related  to. 
AF  RI  CA'  NUS  —  African. 
A'  GA  THA  —  Pleasant,  pleasing  or  pretty. 
A  GE  RA'  TUM  —  Name  a  compound  of  a  privative,  and 
geras,  old ;    as  applied  to  this  plant  the  meaning  is 
not  to  fade  —  the  colors  of  the  flowers  remain  always 
clear. 

A  GRO  STEM'  MA  —  From  agros,  a  field,  and  stetiinia  a 
crown ;  literally  the  crown  of  the  field  ;  in  reference 
to  the  beauty  of  the  flowers. 
A  GROS'  TIS  —  This  is  the  Greek  name  for  grass. 
A  JA'  cis —  Pertaining  to  Ajax  ;  the  marks  on  the  front 
of  Delphinium  Ajacis  were  fancied  toreadAIAI,  in 
which  form  the  name  Ajax  was  sometimes  written. 
A  KE'  BI  A  —  A  latinized  form  of  the  Japanese  name  of 

one  of  the  species  of  this  genus. 
A  LA'  TA  —  Furnished  with  wings  ;  winged. 
AL'  BUS  —  White.   ' 
AL  BI  FLO'  RUM  —  White-flowered. 

A  LON'  so  A  —  Named  after  Alonso,  a  Spanish  botanist. 
AL  PES' TRIS  —  Alpine. 
AL  TER  NI  FO'  LI  us  —  Alternate-leaved. 
AL  THX'  A  —  From  altheo,  to  cure  ;  from  the  medicinal 

qualities  of  some  species. 

A  I.YS'  SUM  —  Compound  of  a  privative,  and  lyssa,  rage ; 
from  a  notion  of  the  ancients  that  the  plant  had  the 
power  of  allaying  rage. 
A  MA'  BI  us  —  Lovely. 
A  MA  RAN  TA'  CE  x.  —  A    natural    order  of   which   the 

genus  Amaranthus  is  a  type. 

A  MA  RAN' THUS — From  the  Greek  word  amarantos, 
unfading. 


A  ME  LI  o  RA'TA  —  Improved. 

A  MEL  LO  i'  DES  —  Resembling  the  Amellus. 

A  MER  i  CA'  NA  —  American. 

AM  MO'  BI  I:M  —  From  attimos,  sand,  and  bio,  to  live  ; 

in  reference  to  the  situation  where  the  plants  grow. 
A  MO'  MUM —  From  a  privative,  and  mounts,  impurity  ; 
in  allusion  to  the  supposed  qualities  of  some  species 
as  poison  antidotes. 

A  NA  GAL'  LIS — As  the  plants  of  this  genus  were  for- 
merly supposed  to  possess  the  power  of  removing 
despondency  they  were  named  from  the  word  anagc- 
lao,  to  laugh. 

AN  DRO'  ME  DA  —  Named  after  the  virgin,  Andromeda. 
AN  DRO  po' GON  —  From    aner,    a   man,   and  pogon,  a 
beard ;    the  little  tufts   of   hairs   on   the   flowers   re- 
semble a  man's  beard. 

A  NEM'  o  NE — From  nin'mos,  the  wind;  many  of  the 
species  inhabit  elevated,  windy  places.  [The 
common  instead  of  the  original  and  correct  pronun- 
ciation, An  e  mo'  ne.] 

A  NEM  o  NE  FLO'  RA  —  Anemone-flowered  ;  flowers  re- 
sembling the  Anemone. 

AN  GEL'  i  CA  —  Named  after  its  supposed  angelic  virtue!.. 
AN'  GLI  CA  —  English. 

AN  TIR  RHI'  NUM — Froma«^/,  similar,  and  rhin,  a  nose  : 
because  the  flowers  of  most  of  the  species  bear  a  re- 
semblance to  the  snout  of  some  animal. 
A  PI  A'  CE  .« — A  natural  order,  of  which  the  genus  Apium 
is  the  prominent  representative;  name  derived' from 
the  Celtic  word  apon,  water ;  in  allusion  to  the  place 
where  the  plants  grow. 
A  PI  cu  LA'  TUM,  (i  short)  —  Resembling  a   bee,   from 

apicula,  a  little  bee. 

A  po  CY  NA'  CE  x. —  A  natural  order  of  which  the  Apo- 
cynum  is  a  representative ;  name  derived  from  apo, 
away,  and  kyon,  a  dog;  supposed  to.be  mortal  if 
eaten  by  dogs  Most  plants  of  this  order  contain 
acrid,  milky  juices,  very  poisonous. 
A  QUI  LE'  (,i  A  —  From  aqiiila,  an  eagle  ;  alluding  to  the 

form  of  the  petal. 
AR  E  NA'  RI  A —  From  arena,  sand  ;  most  of  the  species 

grow  in  sand  or  sandy  places. 

AR  GE  MO'  NE,  i'g  hard)  —  Named  from  argetna,  cataract 
of  the  eye  ;   in  allusion  to  its  supposed  medicinal  prop- 
erties. 
AR  GEX'  TT  I'M  —  Silvery. 


AK  is  TI'  DBS  —  The  name  of  a  renowned  Athenian. 

AR  KAN  si  A'  NVM  —  Arkansan,  from  Arkansas. 

AK  ME'  RI  A  —  Derivation  unknown. 

A  RUN'  DO  —  Latin  arundo,  a  reed. 

As  PAK' A  GUS — From  sparrasso,  to  tear;  on  account 
of  the  strong  prickles  with  which  the  plants  of  some  of 
the  species  are  armed. 

As  PAR  A  GO  i'  DBS  —  Resembling  the  Asparagus. 

As  PE  RU'  LA  —  Diminutive  of  asper,  rough  ;  in  allusion 
to  the  slight  roughness  of  the  leaves. 

As' TER —  From  aster,  a  star;  from  the  resemblance  of 
the  flowers  to  a  star. 

As  TIL'  BE  —  From  a,  privative,  and  stilbe,  brightness; 
not  shining. 

A  TO  MA'  RI  A  —  From  atontus,  an  atom  ;  in  allusion  to 
the  numerous  little  dots  upon  the  petals. 

A  TRI  PI.I  ci  FO'  LI  A  <\  short)  —  Atriplex-leaved  ;  leaves 
like  the  Atriplex  :  Atriplex  is  the  botanical  name  of  a 
culinary  vegetable  commonly  called  Orache. 

A  TRO  coc  ci'  NE  A  (\  short)  —  From  atcr,  black,  and 
coccineus,  scarlet ;  very  dark  scarlet. 

A  TKO  SAN  GUIN'  E  A  —  From  afer,  black,  and  sanguin- 
eus,  bloody,  blood-colored,  blood-red  ;  very  dark  blood 
red  or  very  dark  crimson. 

A  TKO  vi  o  LA'  CE  A — From  atrr,  black,  an&violaceus, 
violet-colored  ;  very  dark  violet-colored. 

Ar  RAN  TI  A' CA — Pertaining  to  the  Orange,  Orange- 
colored  ;  Aurantium,  (from  aurcits,  golden,  or  gold- 
colored,/  is  the  name  of  one  species  of  the  Orange. 

Au  RA'  TUM,  Au'  RE  A  —  From  aurcus,  golden. 

Au  RI'  cr  LA  I'i  short)  —  Latin,  auricula,  the  ear. 

Au  TUM  NA'  LIS  —  Autumnal. 

A  YE'  NA  —  Latin,  avena,  oats. 

A  •/.<•>'  RI  CA —  Pertaining  to  the  Azores  ;  from  the  Azore 
Islands. 

A  zu'  RE  A  —  From  the  Persian  lajaward,  lapis  lazuli, 
a  blue  color;  of  a  sky-blue,  resembling  the  clear  blue 
color  of  the  sky. 

BAR  BA'  TUS —  Having  a  beard,  bearded. 

BA'  KER  i  —  Named  after  Mr.  linker. 

BAL  SA  Ml'  NA  —  The  Arabic  name  is  bs.lassan,  whence 
probably  Balsamina,  Balsam  has  sprung. 

BAL  SA  MI  NA'  CE  x,  —  A  natural  order,  of  which  the 
Balsam  is  the  type. 

BAR  CLAY  A'  NA  —  Referring  to  Mr.  Barclay. 

BAR  TO'  NI  A —  In  honor  of  Dr.  B.  S.  Barton,  a  botanist 
of  Philadelphia. 

BES  SE  RI  A' NA — Named  after  Dr.  Besser,  a  Russian 
Professor  of  Botany. 

BEY'  RICH  i  i. 

Bi'  COL  OR  (i  short) — Two  colored. 

BIG  NO'  NI  A—  In  memory  of  Abbe  Bignon,  Librarian 
to  Louis  XIV. 

Bit;  NO  NI  A'CE.K — The  name  of  a  natural  order,  of  which 
the  Bignonia  is  the  leading  representative. 

Boc  co' NI  A  —  In  honor  of  Paolo  Boccone,  M.  D.,  a 
Sicilian  monk. 

BLOOM  ER  i  A'  NUM  — In  reference  to  Mr.  Bloomer,  an 
amateur  botanist  of  San  Francisco,  California,  in  honor 
of  whom  a  species  of  Lily  was  named. 

BOM  BY  ci'  NUS — From  bombyx,  the  silk  worm  ;  silky. 

BON  DU  CEL'  LA — From  the  French  bonduc,  and  traced 
through  other  languages  to  the  Greek  pontikon,  the 
pontic  nut  or  Filbert ;  the  Filbert  grew  extensively  in 
Pontus,  and  was  made  an  article  of  commerce.  The 
Bonducella  tree  is  a  species  of  Guilandina  in  the  East 
Indies  ;  it  produces  a  three-cornered  pod,  somewhat 
resembling  a  little  Filbert  with  its  husk  on.  The  Bon- 
ducella is  cultivated  as  a  stove  plant,  and  has  flowers 
of  a  peculiar  yellow  color,  and  probably  because  the 
flowers  of  Statice  Bonducella  are  of  a  similar  shade  of 
color  this  name  has  been  given  to  it. 

4 


Bo  RA  GI  NA'  CE  x.  —  The  name  of  a  natural  order,  of 
which  the  Borage  is  a  familiar  representative. 

BOK  BO  NI  EN'  sis —  From  the  Isle  of  Bourbon. 

Bou  VAR'  DI  A  —  In  memory  of  Dr.  Bouvard,  Superin- 
tendent of  the  Royal  Paris  Botanic  Garden. 

Bow  I  EN'  sis,  Bow'  i  i — In  memory  of  J.  Bowie,  a  col- 
lector of  plants  for  the  Kew  Gardens,  London. 

BRA  CHY  co' ME — From  brachys,  short,  and  kouic, 
hair ;  in  allusion  to  the  down  or  pappus  with  which 
the  seed  is  crowned. 

BKA  CHYR  RHJN' CHUM  —  From  brachys,  short,  and 
rynchos,  a  beak  or  snout. 

BRAC  TE  A'  TUM —  Bracteate  ;  furnished  with  bracts. 

BRI'  ZA  —  From  brizo,  to  nod  ;  on  account  of  the  quak- 
ing character  of  the  spikelets. 

BRI  zx  FOR'  MIS  —  Briza-shaped. 

BRI  zo  PY' RUM —  From  brizo,  to  nod,  and  pyros, 
wheat. 

BRO'  MUS  —  So  called  from  bromos,  the  Greek  name  for 
the  wild  oat. 

BRO  WAI/  LI  A  —  Named  in  honor  of  J.  Browallius, 
Bishop  of  Abo. 

BKI:'  NE  us —  Brown. 

BUL  BO  co' DI  UM  —  From  bulbos,  bulb,  and  kodion, 
wool ;  the  bulb  is  wrapped  in  a  wooly  covering. 

BUR  RID  GI  A'  NUM,  BUR  RID'  GI  i. 

BUYCK'  i  i. 

CA  CA'  LI  A — From  kakos,  pernicious,  and  //««,  exceed- 
ingly ;  this  is  a  very  ancient  name,  and  has  probably 
been  transferred  to  this  plant  from  some  other,  so  that 
the  significance  of  the  name  does  not  now  apply 

CA  LAB'  RI  CA  —  Calabrian;  from  Calabria. 

CA  LA'  DI  UM — Meaning  unknown. 

CA  LAM' PE  us  —  From  kalos,  pretty,  and  ampelis,  a 
vine. 

CA  LAN  DRI'  NT  A,  (i  short) —  In  honor  of  J.  L.  Calan- 
drini,  a  German  botanist. 

CAL  CE  o  LA'  RI  A  —  From  calceolus,  a  small  shoe  ;  in 
allusion  to  the  form  of  the  corolla. 

CA  LEN'  DU  LA  —  Named  from  calende,  the  first  day  of 
the  month ;  so  named  because  in  its  native  hab- 
tats  it  may  be  found  in  flower  during  the  calends  of 
each  month,  or,  which  is  the  same  thing,  during  even- 
month  of  the  year. 

CA  LEN  DU  LA' CE  us  —  Calendula-like;  like  the  Calen- 
dula. 

CAL  i  FOR'  NI  cus — Californian. 

CAL  LI  OP' sis  —  From  kallistos,  beautiful,  and  opsis. 
the  eye. 

CAL  LI  RHO'  E — A  Greek  mythological  name. 

CA  LY  CAN'  THUS  —  From  kalyx,  a  calyx,  and  anthos,  a 
flower ;  in  allusion  to  the  colored  calyx  resembling 
petals  which  are  not  present  in  this  class 

CA  LYF7  so  —  A  nymph,  daughter  of  Attas,  who  ruled  in 
one  of  the  islands  of  the  Sicilian  Sea,  and  who  enter- 
tained Ulysses. 

CAM  PA'  NU  LA  —  This  name  is  a  diminuitive  of  cain- 
pana,  a  bell ;  from  the  resemblance  of  the  corolla  to  a 
little  bell. 

CAM  PA  NU  LA'  CE  x. —  The  name  of  a  natural  order  rep- 
resented by  the  Campanula. 

CAM  PA  NU  LA'  TA  —  Campanulate,  or  bell-shaped. 

CA  NA  DEN'  SE  —  Canadian. 

CAN  DE  LA'  BRUM  —  Candelabrum  is  the  Latin  name  for 
Candlestick  or  Chandelier,  which  was  commonly 
made  with  branches  or  arms. 

CAN  ui  DIS'  si  MA  —  Superlative  of  white  ;  whitish. 

CAN'  NA — From  the  Greek  kanna,  a  cane,  a  reed. 

CA  PI  TA'  TA  —  Capitate  ;  having  a  head. 

CAP  PA  RI  DA'  CE  x.  —  A  natural  order,  a  typical  plant 
of  which  is  the  Caper-bush  or  Caper,  (Capparis.) 

CAR  DA  MI  NI  FO'  LIA  —  Cardamine-leaved. 


CAR  DI  NA'  us  —  Meaning   red  or   scarlet   colored;    in 

allusion  to  the  red  hat  and  cassock  of  a  Cardinal. 
CAR  DI  o  PET'  A  LUM  —  Heart-shaped  petal. 
CAR  DI  o  SPER'  MUM  —  From  kardia,  a  heart,  and  spe r- 

ma,  a  seed ;  in  allusion  to  its  round  seeds  which  are 

marked  with  a  spot  like  a  heart. 
CAR  NO'  SA —  Flesh-colored. 
CA  Rl  NA'  TUM  —  Keel-formed  ;  from  carina,   the  keel 

of  a  ship. 
CAR  PA' TI  CA  —  Carpathian.     Carpathia  was  the  ancient 

name  of  an  island  in  the  Grecian  Archipelago. 
CA  RY  o  PHYL  LO  i'  DES  —  Resembling  the  Pink. 
CAS'  SIA  —  Derived  from  the  Hebrew  ketzioth. 
CAU  DA'  TUS  —  Caudate,  having  a  tail ;  from  cauda,  a 

tail. 
CE  LO'  si  A —  From  kelos,  burnt;  the  flowers  of  some  of 

the  species  appear  as  if  singed. 
CEN  TAU'  RE  A,  or  CEN  TAU  RE'  A  —  It  is  said  that  with 

one  of   these   plants  the  Centaur  Chiron  healed  the 

wound  made  in  his  foot  by  the  arrow  of  Hercules. 
CEN  TAU  RI'  DI  UM  (i  short)  —  Similar  to  Centaurea. 
CEN  TRAN'  THUS  —  From  kentron,  a  spur,  and  anthos,  a 

flower ;  the  corolla  being  furnished  with  a  spur  at  the 

base. 
CE'  RES  —  The  daughter  of  Saturn  and  sister  of  Jupiter, 

goddess  of  Agriculture. 
CER  vi  A  KOW'  SKI. 
CHAL  CE  DO'  NI  CA  —  Chalceodonian. 
CHA  MJE  PEU' CE — From  chamai,   on    the    ground,   or 

dwarf,  and  peuke,  a  fir  tree. 
CHA  Jfx  CRIS'  TA  —  From  chamai,  dwarf,  and  crista,  a 

crest,  or  tuft. 
CHEI' RI  —  Kheyrey  is  the  Arabic  name  for  the  genus 

Cheiranthus. 
CHBI  RAN'  THUS — From  its  Arabic  name  kheyrey,  and 

anthos,  a  flower. 

CHI  NEN'  SB,  CHI  NEN'  sis  —  Chinese. 
CHLO'  RIS  —  From  chloros,  green  ;  alluding  to  the  color 

of  the  herbage. 
CHRYS  AN' THA  —  From  chrysos,   gold,  and  anthos,  a 

flower. 

CHRYS  AN  THE  MO  i'  DES  —  Resembling    the    Chrysan- 
themum. 
CHRYS  AN*  THE  MUM  —  From  chrysos,  gold,  nn&anthos, 

a  flower;  because   many   of   the  kinds   bear  yellow 

flowers. 
CHRY  so  CE'  PHA  LUM  —  From  chrysos,   gold,   and  ke- 

phale,  a  head. 
CHRYS  u' RUS — From  chrysos,  gold,  and  oura,a.  tail; 

alluding  to  the  compact  head  of  flowers. 
Ci  n  A' TUM  (i  short)  —  Ciliate,   fringed;    beset   on   the 

margin  with  a  fringe  of  hairs  or  bristles  ;  from  cilium, 

an  eye-lash. 
CIN  E  RA'  RI  A  —  From  cinerarias,  pertaining  to  ashes  ; 

in  allusion  to  the  color  and  appearance  of  the  under 

side  of  the  leaves. 

CIN  NA  BA  RI'  NA —  Vermilion  color. 
CIR  RHO'  SA  —  Furnished  with  a  tendril  or  twining  leaf- 
stem. 
Ci  TRI'  MJS  —  Lemon-colored,  a  greenish-yellow  like  a 

lemon. 

CLARK'  I  A  —  In  honor  of  Captain  Clarke,  who  accom- 
panied Captain   Lewis  in  his  journey  to  the  Rocky 

Mountains. 
CLEM' A  TIS  —  From  klema,  a  vine  branch;  leaves  of 

most  of  the  species  climb  like  the  vine. 
CLE  o' ME — From  kleio,  to  shut;  alluding  to  the  parts 

of  the  flowers. 

CLE  o  PA'  TRA —  A  Queen  of  Egypt. 
CLI  AN*  THUS  —  From    kleios,    glory,    and     anthos,    a 

flower ;  in  reference  to  the  noble  appearance  of  the 

species  of  this  genus. 


Co  BCE'  A  —  In  honor  of  B.  Cobo,  a  Spanish  botanist 

Coc  CIN'  E  A,  Coc  CIN'  NE  us  —  Of  a  scarlet  color. 

Coc  co  LO'  BA  —  From   kokkos,  a  berry,   and   lotos,   a 

lobe  ;  in  allusion  to  the  character  of  the  fruit. 
Cos  LES  TI'  NUM  (i  short) —  From  ccelum,  the  heavens  ; 

referring  to  the  sky-blue  color. 
CCE'  LI     Ro  SA  —  Rose  of  Heaven. 
Co  IX  —  A  name  formerly  applied  to  a  kind  of  Ethiopian 

Palm,  and  which  has  been  transferred  to  the  genus  of 

Grass  which  now  bears  it. 

COL' CHI  CUM  —  Named  after  Colchis,  its  native  country. 
Co'  LE  us — Derived  from  koleos,  a  sheath;  referring  to 

the  manner  in  which  the  stamens  are  united. 
COL  LIN' si  A — In  honor  of  Z.   Collins,  formerly  Vice 

President  of  the  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,  Phila- 
delphia. 
Co  LU  BRI'  NA  —  From  koluber,  a  snake ;  alluding  to  the 

appearance  of  the  twisted  stamens  of  the  flowers  of  the 

Colubrina. 

COM  MU' NIS  —  Common. 
COM  PAC'  TA  —  Compact. 
COM  PCS'  i  TM  —  A  natural  order  composed  of  plants 

which  have  a  number  or  many  flowers  congregated  to- 
gether in  a  head,  like  the  Dandelion,  the  Thistle,  the 

Sunflower,  the  Aster,  &c. 
CON  CHI  FLO'  RA  —  Shell-flowered. 
CON  GES'  TA  —  A  heap,  pile. 
CON  so'  LI  DA  —  Very  firm  or  solid. 
CON  SPI'  cu  UM  —  Remarkable,  attracting  attention. 
CON  VOL'  vu  LUS —  From  con-volvo,  to  roll  together,  roll 

up,  roll  round ;  in  reference  to  the  habit  of  the  plants. 
COR  DI  FO'  LI  UM  —  Heart-shape  leaved. 
Co  RO  NA'  RI  UM  —  Wreath-like. 

Co  RYM  BI  FLO'  RUM  —  Flowers  arranged  in  a  corymb. 
CRA  NI  o  LA' RI  A Like   a  skull;  from   kranium,   a 

skull. 
CRAS  si  FO' LI  A  —  Thick  leaved;    from  crassus,  solid, 

thick,  dense. 

CREP7  is  —  Derivation  unknown. 
CRIS  TA-GAL' LI — From  crista,  a  tuft,  and  gallus,  a 

cock ;  a  cock's  comb. 
CRIS  TA'  TA  —  Crested. 
CRO'  CE  A  —  Saffron-colored. 
CRO'  cus  —  A  Chaldean  name.      Ovid  relates  a  story  of 

a  youth  by  the  name  of  Crocus  being  turned  into  this 

flower. 
CRU  ci'  FE  R.*  —  The  name  of  a  natural  order  of  plants  ; 

literally,  cross-bearing ;    the  flowers  of  the  plants  of 

this  order  have  four  petals  spread  out  in  the  form  of  a 

cross,  as  in  the  Mustard,  Cabbage,  Candytuft,  &c. 
CRU  EN'  TUS —  Covered,  spotted  or  stained  with  blood. 
CRUIK  SHANK'  I  I  (Crook)  —  Named  after  Cruikshank. 
CRYS  TAL  LI'  NUM  —  Crystalline. 
Cu' cu  MIS — From  curvus,   crooked;  referring  to  the 

shape  of  the  fruit. 

Cu  CUR'  BI  TA  —  From  curvitas,  crookedness. 
Cu'  PHE  A  —  From  kuphos,  curved  ;  in  reference  to  the 

form  of  the  capsule. 

Cu  PRE  A'  TA,  Cu'  PRE  us — Copper-colored. 
CY  A'  NUS  —  From  cyaneus,  dark  blue,  sea  blue. 
CY'  CLA  MEN —  Derived  from  kyklos,  circular;  referring 

to  the  round  leaves. 
CYM  BA  LA'RI  A  —  Cymbal-shaped. 
CY  NO  su' RUS — From  kuon,  a  dog,  and  oura,a.  tail; 

from  its  resemblance  to  a  dog's  tail,  whence  the  name, 

Dog's  Tail  grass. 

CY  NO  su  RO  i'  DES  —  Like  the  Cynosurus. 
CY'  PE  RUS  (y  short) —  From   the   Island   of   Cyprus  or 

from  Cypris,  another  name  for  Venus. 
DAM  AS  CE'  NA — From  Dnmascus. 
DAM  PI  E'  RI  —  Referring  to  Captain  William  Dampier, 

a  celebrated  circumnavigator. 


48 


DA  TU'  RA —  An  alteration  of  the  Arabic  name  tatorah. 

DA  VID  SON'  i  I. 

DEL  I  CA  TIS'  si  MA  —  The  most  delicate. 

DEL  PHI'  NI  UM,  (i  short,)  —  From  delphin,  in  reference 
to  the  supposed  resemblance  of  the  nectary  of  the  plant 
to  the  imaginary  figures  of  the  Dolphin. 

DEN  TA' TA  —  Dentate,  toothed;  a  term  applied  to  the 
margin  of  a  leaf  which  has  sharp  teeth  pointing  out- 
ward from  the  center. 

DE  PRES'  SA  —  Pressed  down,  flattened  from  above. 

Di  A  CAN7  THA  —  Two-spined,  or  two-thorned  ;  from 
dis,  two,  and  acantha,  a  spine. 

Di  AN7  THUS —  From  dios  divine,  and  anthos,  a  flower; 
referring  to  the  fragrance  and  beauty  of  the  flower. 

Di  DIS'  cus. 

Di  GI  TA' us,  (shorti,  g  soft,)  —  Of,  or  belonging  to. 
the  finger ;  in  allusion  to  the  resemblance  the  flower 
bears  to  the  finger  of  a  glove. 

Dip7  SA  cus  —  Supposed  to  be  from  dipsao,  to  thirst ;  in 
consequence  of  the  leaves  holding  water. 

Dis  co  I  DA'  LIS —  Discoidal,  resembling  a  disc. 

Di  VER  si  FLO'  RA —  Diverse-flowered. 

Do  DE  CA'  THE  ON —  From  dodcka,  twelve,  and  tkeos,  a 
divinity;  a  name  without  significance  as  applied  to 
the  plant  that  bears  it. 

Do'  LI  CHOS —  From  dolichos,  long  ;  in  reference  to  the 
long  twining  stems. 

DRA  ex.'  NA  —  From  drakaina,  a  female  dragon  ;  be- 
cause the  inspissated  juice  becomes  a  red  powder,  like 
that  produced  from  the  blood  of  the  dragon. 

DRUM  MONO'  I  I  —  Discovered  by  Drummond ;  Mr. 
Thomas  Drummond  was  a  well-known  Naturalist  and 
zealous  collector  of  plants,  chiefly  in  this  country.  He 
died  in  Havana  in  1835. 

Du.N  NET7  TI  I. 

EC  CRE  MO  CAR' PUS — From  ekkr ernes,  pendent,  and 
karpos  fruit;  the  fruit  is  pendent. 

E  LA'  TA,  E  LA'  TI  OR  —  Exalted,  high,  lofty. 

EL'  E  GANS —  Elegant. 

EL  E  GAN  TIS'  si  MA  —  Most  elegant. 

EN  DY'  MI  ON,  (y  and  i  short)  —  A  beautiful  youth,  who, 
on  account  of  his  love  for  Juno,  was  condemned  by- 
Jupiter  to  perpetual  sleep,  in  which  sleeping  condition 
Luna  fell  violently  in  love  with  him. 

ER  i  AN7  THUS —  From  erion,  wool,  and  anthos,  a  flower. 

E  RI' NUS  —  Probably  from  erineos,  the  wild  fig-tree, 
which  has  a  milky  juice;  erinus  is  the  name  of  a 
genus  of  Alpine  plants  with  milky  juice ;  this  term, 
therefore,  has  been  applied  to  some  plants  having  a 
milky  juice. 

E  RY'  si  MUM,  (y  short)  —  From  erion,  to  draw,  to  cure  ; 
it  is  thought  to  be  a  cure  for  a  sore  throat ;  it  is  also 
said  to  draw  and  produce  blisters. 

E  RY  THRI' NA  —  From  erythros,  red;  in  reference  to 
the  color  of  the  flowers. 

Es  cu  LEN'  TUM  —  Esculent,  edible. 

ESCH  SCHOLT'  zi  A  (c  silent) —  From  Dr.  Eschscholtz,  a 
Botanist. 

Eu  o'  NY  MUS — From  eu,  well,  and  onoma,  a  name, 
well  named.  The  application  of  the  name  is  obscure. 

Eu  PHOR' BI  A — Euphorbus  was  physician  to  Juba, 
King  of  Mauritania,  and  first  used  this  plant  in  medi- 
cine ;  Linnaeus  gave  the  name  in  his  honor. 

Eu  TO'  CA  —  From  eutokos,  fruitful ;  alluding  to  the  great 
number  of  seeds. 

Ex  i'  MI  UM  —  Select,  distinguished,  extraordinary,  un- 
common, excellent. 

FAR  FU'  GI  UM  —  The  Farfugium  bears  a  general  resem- 
blance to  Colt's-foot,  or  Tussilago  Farfara,  of  which 
the  ancient  name  was  Farfugium,  and  from  this  cir- 
cumstance it  has  received  its  name ;  the  meaning  of 
the  name  is  uncertain. 


FAS  TU  o'  SA — Proud,  haughty,  disdainful. 

FENZ'  LI  A — In  honor  of  Dr.  Fenzl. 

FER' R.-E,  FER  RU  GI' NE  A  (i  short)  —  Resembling  iron- 
rust  in  appearance  or  color;  brownish-red,  mixed 
with  gray. 

Fi  co  ID'  E  K  —  A  natural  order  of  succulent  plants,  of 
which  the  Mesembryanthemum  is  a  typical  genus ; 
the  meaning  of  the  name  is  unknown. 

FLAM'  MU  LA — A  little  flame. 

FLA'  VA  —  Golden  yellow,  reddish  yellow. 

FLA  vis'  si  MUM —  The  yellowest. 

FLEX  u  o'  SA — Full  of  turns,  tortuous,  flexuous. 

FLO  RE  AL'  BO  —  White-flowered. 

FLO  RE  CAR'  NE  o — Flesh-colored  flower. 

FLO  RE  LU'  TE  o — Yellow-flowered. 

FLO  RE  PLE'  NO  —  Double-flowered. 

FLO' RI  DUS — Full  of  flowers,  abundant  blooming;  fluffi- 
ed  with  rose  color. 

FLO  RI  BUN7  DA  —  Abounding  in  flowers. 

Fo'  LI  is — A  leaf. 

FON  TA  NE  si  A'  NA — In  honor  of  the  celebrated  Des- 
fontaines,  professor  of  Botany  at  Paris. 

FOR  MO'  SA — Finely  formed,  beautiful,  handsome. 

FRA  GA'  RI  A — From  fraga,  strawberries. 

FRU  TES'  CENS  —  Shrubby. 

FUL'  GI  DA — Flashing,  glittering,  shining. 

Fu  MA  RI  A'  CE  x.  —  The  name  of  a  natural  order  of 
plants,  containing,  among  other  genera,  the  Fumaria, 
Dicentra  and  the  Adlumia.  The  name  is  derived 
from  fumus,  smoke ;  alluding  to  the  disagreeable 
smell  of  the  Fumitory,  (Fumaria  officinalis .) 

Fu  MA  RI  x.  FO'  LI  A  —  Fumaria-leaved. 
j    FUCH  si  o  i'  DES  —  Resembling  the  Fuchsia. 
I    GAIL  LAR'  DI  A  —  In  honor  of  M.  Gaillard  de  Marenton- 
neau,  an  amateur  Botanist. 

GA  LA'  THE  A  —  A  sea  nymph  ;  a  female  friend  of  Hor- 
ace, to  whom  he  addressed  an  ode. 

GAN  DA  VEN'  sis  —  Changed  from  Gandensis  ;  from 
Gand,  or  Ghent,  in  Belgium. 

GARD  NER  I  A'  NUS  —  Referring  to  George  Gardner,  a 
Scotchman  and  an  enthusiastic  Botanist  and  plant 
collector,  who  made  extensive  travels  in  South  Amer- 
ica, and  introduced  a  great  many  plants  from  that 
country  into  Great  Britain  ;  he  was  afterward  appoint- 
ed Director  of  the  Botanical  Garden  of  Ceylon,  and 
died  in  1841. 

GE  NI  cu  LA' TA — Bent  abruptly,  like  a  knee;  from 
genu,  3.  knee  ;  geniculatus,  bended  knee. 

GEN  TI  AN  o  i' DES — Resembling  the  Gentian.  The 
Gentian  received  its  name  from  Gentius,  King  of  Illy- 
ria,  who  first  experienced  the  virtues  of  the  plant. 

GE  RA' NI  UM  —  Named  by  Linnaeus,  from  geranos,  a 
crane ;  in  allusion  to  the  crane-like  beak  terminating 
the  carpels. 

GI  GAN  TE7  us  (i  short)  —  Gigantic. 

GIL'  i  A  —  In  honor  of  P.  S.  Gilio,  a  Spanish  botanist  of 
some  note. 

GLA'  BRUM  —  Smooth,  without  hair. 

GLA'  DI  o  LUS  —  Gladiolus,  a  small  sword  ;  alluding  to 
the  sword-shaped  leaves. 

GLAU  co  PHYL'  LA  —  Glaucous-leaved,  that  is,  the  leaves 
covered  with  a  bluish-gray  bloom  or  powder  that  rubs 
off,  like  that  on  a  fresh  plum  or  a  Cabbage  leaf;  from 
glaucus,  bluish-gray,  and  phyllon,  a  leaf. 

GLO  BO'  SA  —  Globose. 

GLOX  i  N.C  FLO'  RA  —  Gloxinia-formed,  flowers  like  the 
Gloxinia 

GLOX  i' NI  A  —  Named  in  honor  of  P.  B.  Gloxin,  a 
botanist  of  Colmar. 

GLOX  i  NO  i'  DES  —  Gloxinia-formed,      '•esembling     the 

Gloxinia. 

!    GODE'TIA  —  Derivation  uncertain. 
19 


COM  PHRE' NA  —  From  goinphos,  a  club;  alluding  to 
the  shape  of  the  flowers. 

GRA'  ci  LIS —  Thin,  small,  slender. 

OKA'  HAM  i  i. 

GRAN'  DK —  Large,  great. 

GRAN  DI  FLO'  RA —  I^arge-flowered. 

GYM  NO  CAR'  PA  —  Naked-fruited  ;  fromgymnos,  naked, 
and  karpos,  a  fruit. 

GY  NE'  KI  UM  —  From  gyne,  a  female,  and  erion,  wool  ; 
in  reference  to  the  stigmas. 

GYP  so' PHI  LA  —  From  gypsos,  chalk,  and  phileo,  to 
love;  in  reference  to  the  favorite  habitat  of  the  plant. 

HAA  GB  A' NA  (g  hard  /  —  Referring  to  Mr.  Haage,  a 
celebrated  florist  and  seedsman,  of  Erfurt,  Prussia. 

HA  LI  CA'  CA  BUM  —  The  capsules  or  seed-vessels  of  the 
Cardiospermum  Halicacabum  are  inflated  like  the 
f>ods  of  Vesicaria;  the  Greek  name  of  Vesicaria  was 
halicacabus. 

HART  WEG'  I  I  —  Referring  to  Mr.  Theodore  Hartweg. 
who  was  at  one  time  a  botanical  collector  in  South 
America  for  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  of  Great 
Britain. 

HED  DE  WIG'  i  i  —  In  honor  of  Mr.  Heddewig. 

HE  DY  SA'  RUM  —  An  old  Greek  name  of  uncertain  origin. 

HE  LI  AN' THUS — From  helios,  sun,  and  anthos,  a 
flower;  on  account  of  the  brilliant  color  of  the  flowers, 
and  from  the  fanciful  idea  that  the  flowers  always 
turned  toward  the  sun. 

HE  LI  CHRY'  SUM  —  From  helios,  sun,  and  chrysos,  gold  ; 
in  allusion  to  the  brilliant  colors  of  the  flowers. 

HE  LI  o  TRO'  PI  UM,  (HELIOTROPE,; —  From  helios,  the 
sun,  and  tropo,  to  turn  ;  the  flowers  are  said  always  to 
turn  to  the  sun. 

HE  LIP*  TE  RUM  —  The  derivation  is  not  apparent. 

HER  BER'  TI  i  —  Referring  to  the  Rev.  William  Herbert, 
Dean  of  Manchester,  a  scientific  horticulturist  and 
botanist. 

Hi  BIS'  cus —  Probably  derived  from  ibis,  a  stork,  be- 
cause that  bird  is  said  to  eat  the  plants  of  some  of  the 
species. 

His  PA'  NI  CA  —  Spanish. 

HOOK  ER  i  A'  NA  —  In  reference  to  one  of  the  Hookers, 
father  and  son,  celebrated  English  botanists. 

HOR'  DE  UM  —  Latin,  hordemn,  barley. 

HOR  TEN'  sis  —  Belonging  to  a  garden  ;  from  hortus,  a 
garden. 

HOY' A  —  In  honor  of  Thomas  Hoy,  a  noted  English 
gardener,  and  Fellow  of  the  Linnaean  Society. 

HUM  BOLDT'  i  i  —  In  reference  to  the  celebrated  travel- 
er and  naturalist,  Baron  von  Humboldt. 

Hu'  ME  A  —  In  honor  of  the  lady  of  the  late  Sir  Abraham 
Hume,  Bart.,  Wormsleybury,  Herts.,  England. 

Hu'  MI  LIS  —  Humble,  small,  low. 

HUN  NE  MANN'  i  i,  HUN  NE  MANN'  i  A  —  In  honor  of 
John  Hunnemann,  a  zealous  botanist,  and  to  whom 
horticulture  is  indebted  for  a  great  number  of  plants. 

HY  A  CIN  THI  FLO7  RUM  —  Hyacinth-flowered. 

HY  A  CIN'  THUS  —  In  Mythology',  Hyacinthus  was  a  boy 
who  was  killed  by  Zephyrus. 

HY  A  CIN  THO  i'  DES  —  Hyacinth  -  shaped,  resembling 
the  Hyacinth. 

HY'  BRI  DA  —  Hybrid  ;  the  progeny  of  the  union  of  two 
species. 

HY  DRAN' GE  A — From  hydor,  water,  and  aggeion,  a 
cup  or  vessel ;  the  capsule  of  some  of  the  species  has 
been  compared  to  a  cup. 

HY  DRO  PHYL  LA'  CE  x.—  The  name  of  a  natural  order, 
commonly  called  the  Water-leaf  family ;  the  applica- 
tion of  the  name  is  obscure. 

HYS  so  PI  FO'  LI  A  —  Hyssop-leaved. 

I  BE  RI  DI  FO'  LI  A  —  Iberis-leaved ;  leaves  like  the  Can- 
dytuft. 


I  BE'  KIS  —  From  Iberia,  the  ancient  name  of  Spain. 

IM  MU  TA'  BI  LIS — Immutable,  unchanging. 

IM  PE  RI  A'  LIS —  Imperial. 

IN  CA'  NA  —  Hoary,  mouldy-colored. 

IN  CAR  NA'  TA —  Flesh-colored. 

IN'  DI  CA  —  Indian;  from  the  Indies. 

IN  DI  vi'  SA  —  Undivided. 

IN  SIG' NIS — Distinguished  by  a  mark,  remarkable, 
noted,  distinguished,  prominent,  extraordinary. 

IN  TEG  RI  FO'  LI  A  —  Whole-leaverl — that  is,  the  leaf  en- 
tire, or  not  divided,  cut  or  lobed. 

IN  VOL  v  CRA'  TUM —  Involucrate,  having  an  involucre. 

I  PO  MCE'  A  —  From  ij>s,  bindweed,  and  honioios,  simi- 
lar; alluding  to  the  twining  habit  of  the  plant. 

I  PO  MOP' sis — From  ipo.\o  strike  forward,  and  opsis. 
sight;  alluding  to  the  dazzling  color  of  the  flowers. 

I'  RIS —  From  iris,  the  rainbow  ;  alluding  to  the  variety 
and  beauty  of  the  colors  of  the  flowers. 

I  SA  BEL  LI'  NA  —  A  peculiar   shade    of  yellow  or  drab. 

I  so'  LE  PIS —  From  tsas,  equal,  and  lepis,  a  scale  ;  al- 
luding to  the  regularity  of  the  scales. 

Ix' I  A — /.r/Vi,  bird-lime  ;  because  of  the  viscid  nature 
of  some  of  the  species 

JACK  MAN' NI  i  —  In  reference  to  George  Jackmann, 
nurseryman,  of  Surrey,  England. 

JA  LA'  PA —  From  a  town  of  that  name. 

JA  PO'  NI  CA  —  Japanese. 

Ju  BA'  TUM  —  Crested,  maned. 

KAUL  FUS' si  A —  In  honor  of  Frederick  Kaulfu--.  M. 
D.,  formerly  Professor  of  Botany  at  Halle. 

KING'  i  i. 

LA  BI  A'  TJE —  The  name  of  a  natural  order,  commonly 
called  the  Mint  family  ;  the  flowers  of  the  plants  in 
this  order  have  always  a  two-lipped  corolla,  hence, 
the  name,  from  labiutn ,  a  lip. 

LAB'  LAB  —  Lablab  is  the  Arabic  name  of  Con-'chniius  : 
the  idea  of  twining  is  probably  the  import  of  the  term. 

LA'  CHRY  MA  —  Lachritna,  a  tear. 

LA  ci  NI  A'  TUS  —  Laciniate;  slashed,  cut  into  deep,  nar- 
row lobes. 

LA  GE  NA'  RIA —  From  Ingcna,  a  bottle ;  localise  of  the 
bottle-shaped  fruit  of  some  of  the  species. 

LA  GU'  RUS — From  lagus,  a  hare,  and  otira,  a  tail  ;  on 
account  of  the  resemblance  of  its  heads. 

LA  MARCK  i  A'  NA  —  In  reference  to  Lamarck,  a  French 
naturalist,  who  wrote  largely  upon  botany  about  the 
end  of  the  eighteenth  century. 

LA  NA'  TA  —  Wooly  ;  clothed  with  long  and  soft  entangl- 
ed hairs. 

LAN  ci  FO'  LI  UM  —  Lance-leaved. 

LAN  TA'  NA  —  One  of  the  ancient  names  of  the  Viburnum, 
and  applied  to  this  genus  by  Linnaeus,  because  of  the 
similarity  of  the  leaves. 

LA  NU  GI  NO'  SA  —  Wooly. 

LAS  SEAUX'  i  i. 

LA  TE  RI' TI  A — From  lateritius,  brick-work:  hc:ire. 
brick-color. 

LA' THY  RUS — From  la,  augmentative,  and  tlunirti.<. 
anything  exciting ;  in  allusion  to  the  medicinal  quali- 
ties of  the  seeds. 

LA  TI  FO'  LI  A  —  Broad-leaved. 
LA  TI  PET'  A  LA —  Broad-petaled. 

LEG  u  MI  NO'  SJE  —  The  name  of  a  natural  order,  com- 
monly called  the  Pulse  Family,  and  of  which  the  com- 
mon Pea  and  the  Bean  are  familiar  representatives. 
Name  from  legumen,  pulse,  leguminous  plant,  the 
Bean. 
LEP  TO'  si  PHON —  From  leptos,  slender,  and  siphon,  a 

tube  ;  alluding  to  the  slender  tube  of  the  corolla. 
LEU  CAN'  TH A — From    Iciikos,    white,  and    anthos,   a 

flower;  white-flowered. 
LEU  co'  JUM  —  From  leukos,  white,  and  ion,  a  violet. 


50 


LEUT  WEIN' I  I — From    Leutwein,    a    German,    whose 

name  is  pronounced  almost  like  light  -wine. 
Li  BO'  NI  A  — •  Named  after  Libon,  who  discovered  it  in 

Brazil  a  few  years  since. 
Li  LA  ci'  NA —  Lilac  colored. 

Li'  LI  UM  (i  short) — From  the  Celtic  word  li,  whiteness  ; 
on  account  of  the  white  flowers  of  some  of  the  species. 
LIM  BA' TA — Having  an  expanded  end,  or  being  bor- 
dered by  something. 

Li  NA'  CE  x.  —  A  natural  order,  commonly  called  Flax- 
worts  ;  the  principal  genus  is  the  Linum,  or  Flax,  and 
from  which  the  order  receives  its  name. 

Li  NA'  RI  A —  From  limim,  flax ;  on  account  of  the  sim- 
ilarity of  the  leaves. 

LIN  DEN'  i  i —  In  reference  to  M.  Linden,  a  prominent 
Horticulturist,  of  Ghent. 

Li'  NUM  —  From  the  Celtic  word  llin,  a  thread ;  the 
fibres  of  one  species  of  Linum  is  the  Flax  of  commerce, 
from  which  linen  cloth  is  made. 

Lo  A'  SA  —  Meaning  unknown. 

Lo  A  SA'  CE  M  —  A  natural  order,  which  receives  its 
name  from  its  leading  genus,  Lousa. 

LOB  BI  A'  NUM —  In  reference  to  William  Lobb,  an  inde- 
fatigable English  plant  collector  and  botanist. 

Lo  BE'  LI  A — In  honor  of  Matthew  Lobel,  a  native  of 
Lille,  who  became  a  botanist  and  physician  to 
James  I. 

LON  GIS'  si  MA  —  Longest;  superlative  of  long. 

Lo  NI  CE'  RA  —  Named  after  Adam  Lonicer,  a  German 
botanist,  who  died  in  1586. 

Lo'  RE  i. 

Lu'  ci  DA  —  Brilliant,  bright,  shining. 

Lu  pi'  NUS —  From  lupus,  a  wolf,  because  Lupines  were 
thought  to  destroy  the  fertility  of  the  soil. 

Lu'  TE  A  —  Golden  yellow,  saffron  yellow,  orange  yellow. 

LYCH' NIS — From  lychnos,^.  lamp;  on  account  of  the 
brilliancy  of  the  flowers  of  some  of  the  species. 

MA  CRO  CAR'  PUS  —  From  makros,  long,  and  karoos,  a 
fruit. 

MAC  RO  si'  PHON — From  makros,  long,  and  siphon,  a 
tube  ;  alluding  to  the  long  tube  of  the  corolla. 

MA  cu  LA'  TA  —  Spotted. 

MA'  JOR  —  Larger. 

MA' LO  PE  —  From  malos,  tender;  in  allusion  to  the 
soft  leaves. 

MAL  VA'  CE  x —  The  name  of  a  natural  order,  contain- 
ing the  genus  Malva,  from  which  it  receives  its  name; 
the  name  is  derived  from  malache,  soft;  in  allusion  to 
the  emollient  qualities  of  the  species. 

MAN  DE  VIL'  LA  —  Named  in  honor  of  Henry  J.  Mande- 
ville,  Esq.,  a  British  Minister  to  Buenos  Ayres,  who 
introduced  this  plant  and  many  others  into  England. 

MAN  GLE'  si  I  —  Referring  to  Captain  James  Mangles,  of 
the  British  navy,  who  was  a  patron  of  botany. 

MA  RAN  TA'  CE  x.  —  The  name  of  a  natural  order  of 
plants,  which  receives  its  name  from  the  Maranta,  or 
Arrow-root.  The  Maranta  received  its  name  from  B. 
Maranti,  a  Venitian  physician  and  botanist,  who  died 
in  1554- 

MAR  GI  NA' TA  —  Marginate;  having  a  border  or  edge 
different  from  the  rest. 

MA  RI' TI  MA  (i  short)  —  Maritime;  pertaining  to  the 
sea. 

MAR  MO  RA'  TA —  Marbled  ;   variegated  like  marble. 

MAR  TYN' i  A  —  In  honor  of  John  Martyn,  F.  R.  S., 
Professor  of  botany  at  Cambridge,  England,  who  died 
in  1768. 

MAU  RAN'  DY  A  —  In  honor  of  Dr.  Maurandy,  Professor 
of  botany  at  Carthagena. 

MAU  RI  TA'  NI  cus  —  Of,  or  from,  Mauritania 

MAX'  i  MUM  —  Greatest. 

ME  LAN  CHO'  LI  cus  —  Melancholic. 


51 


MES  EM  BRY  AN' THE  MUM  —  From  inesembria,  mid- 
day, and  anthemon,  a  flower;  the  flowers  expand 
most  freely  when  fullv  exposed  to  the  sun. 

ME  so  PO  TA' MI  CUM  —  Mesopotamian  ;  of,  or  from 
Mesopotamia. 

MEX  i  CA'  NUM  —  Mexican. 

Mi  CRO  CAR' PUS — From  mikros,  small,  and  karpos,  a 
fruit. 

Mi  MO'  SA —  From  mintos,  a  mimic  ;  the  leaves  of  many 
of  the  species  mimic  animal  sensibility. 

Mi' MU  LUS  (i  short)  —  From  mimo,  an  ape;  so  named 
from  the  ringent  corollas  of  the  flowers. 

Mi'  NI  MUM —  Smallest. 

Mi'  NOR  —  Smaller. 

Mi  RA'  BI  LIS  —  Wonderful,  admirable,  extraordinary. 

Mo  MOR'  DI  CA  —  From  mordeo,  to  bite;  the  seeds  have 
the  appearance  of  being  bitten. 

MON  STRO'  sus  —  Monstrous,  strange,  preternatural. 

MON  TA'  NA  —  Of,  or  from,  a  mountain. 

Mos  CHA'  TUS  —  Musky. 

MUL  TI  CAU' LE  —  From  ittultus,  many,  and  catilis,  a 
stem  ;  many  stemmed  or  stalked. 

MUL  TI'  co  LOR,  (i  short)  —  Many-colored. 

MUL  TI  FLO'  RA  —  Many-flowered. 

Mu  RA'  LIS  —  Of,  or  belonging  to,  a  wall. 

MUR  SEL'  n  i. 

MY  o  so'  TIS —  From  niys,  myos,  a  mouse,  and  otos,  an 
ear ;  a  fancied  resemblance  in  the  leaves. 

MYR  si'  PHYL  LUM  —  From  myrsine,  a  myrtle,  and 
phyllon,  a  leaf;  resemblance  of  the  leaves. 

NAN  KI  NEN'  sis  —  Belonging  to  Nankin. 

NA'  NUS —  Dwarf. 

NAR  BO  NEN'  sis —  Belonging  to  Narbonne. 

NAR  cis' sus  —  A  mythological  youth;  he  was  uncom- 
monly beautiful,  and  fell  so  violently  in  love  with  him- 
self on  beholding  his  image  in  a  fountain,  that  he  wast- 
ed away  with  desire,  until  he  was  changed  into  the 
flower  of  the  same  name. 

NE  BU  LO'  SA  —  Cloudy,  hazy,  misty. 

NE  MO' PHI  LA — From  nemos,  a  grove,  and  phileo, 
to  love ;  the  plants  delight  in  a  shady  situation. 

NE  PA  LEN'  sis —  Belonging  to  Nepaul. 

NE'  RI  UM  —  From  neros,  humid  ;  alluding  to  the  hab- 
itat of  the  plant. 

NE  VA  DEN'  sis —  From,  or  belonging  to  Nevada. 

NIE  REM  BER'  GI  A,  (Nie  pronounced  like  Nee)  —  In 
honor  of  John  Eusebius  Nieremberg,  a  Spanish  Jesuit, 
author  of  a  History  of  Nature,  Antwerp.  1635. 

NI  GEL' LA,  (g  soft) — From  niger,  black;  the  black 
seed,  which  is  the  part  of  the  plant  known  in  cook- 
ery. 

NI'  TI  DA  (i  short)  —  Shining,  glossy. 

No  LA' NA  —  From  nola,  a  little  bell;  because  of  the 
form  of  the  corolla. 

NYC  TA  GI  NA'  CE  JB  —  The  name  of  a  natural  order  of 
plants,  including  the  Mirabilis,  (Four-o'clock,)  Abro- 
nia,  &c.  Name  derived  from  nuktos,  night,  and  gen- 
esis, to  beget,  be  born  ;  the  flowers  of  many  of  the 
species  open  at  night  or  near  sun  down. 

O  BE  LIS  CA'  RI  A  —  From  obcliskos,  obelisk;  in  allusion 

to  the  elevated  disc  of  the  flower. 
O  cu  LA'  TUS — Having  eyes,  or  spots  like  eyes. 
O  DO  RA'  TA  —  Odorous,  fragrant. 

CE  NO  THE'  RA  —  From  oinos,  wine,  and  thera,  a  catch- 
ing ;  the  roots  of  CE.  biennis  were  formerly  taken  after 
meals  as  incentives  to  wine-drinking. 
OP  FI  ci  NA'  LIS,  (i  short)  —  Of  the  office  or  shop;  such 
as  prepared  at  the  dispensary,  or  sold  at  the  drug- 
gist's. 

O  LE  AN'  DER  —  From  the  Latin  lorandrum,  corrupted 
from  rhododendron ,  from  rhodon,  the  rose,  and  den- 
dron,  tree. 


O  NA  GKA'  CE  /£  —  The  name  of  a  natural  order  of  plants, 
of  which  the  CEnothera,  (Evening  Primrose,)  is  a  rep- 
resentative genus  ;  name  derived  from  onager,  a  mili- 
tary engine  for  discharging  large  stones  ;  the  flowers  of 
some  of  the  species  of  •  Evening  Primrose  ^burst  open 
suddenly  at  dusk,  with  a  slight  noise. 
O  RI  EN  TA'  LE —  Oriental. 
O  THON'  NA  —  From  at/tone,  linen ;  alluding  to  the  downy 

clothing  of  the  original  plant. 
O  VA'  TUS  —  Ovate. 
Ox  A' LIS  —  From  oxys,  acid ;  the  leaves  have  an  acid 

taste. 

Ox  Y  u'  RA  —  Derivation  and  meaning  of  name  uncertain. 
PA  LA  FOX'  i  A  —  Named  in  honor  of  Palafox. 
PAL'  LI  BUS —  Pale. 

PA  LUS'  TRIS  —  Marshy,  swampy,  from  low,  damp  places 
PA  NI  cu  LA'  TA  —  Paniculate  ;  flowers  forming  a  panicle 
PA' NI  CUM  —  An  ancient  name  for  an  Italian  grass; 

from panis,  bread. 

PA  PA'  VER  —  From/a/a,  pap,  or  thick  milk  ;  the  juice 
of  the  Poppy  was  formerly  used  in  children's  food  to 
make  them  sleep. 

PA  PA  VE  RA'  CE  x.  —  The  name  of  a  natural  order  of 
plants,  prominently  represented  by  the  Poppy,  and 
from  which  it  receives  its  name. 

PA  RA  DOX'  A  —  Marvelous,  strange,  contrary  to  expec- 
tation, paradoxical. 
PAR  THE'  NI  UM  —  From  Parthenon,  a  virgin  ;  supposed 

medicinal  qualities. 
PAR  THE  NI  FO'  LI  UM  —  Parthenium-leaved ;  leaves  like 

the  Parthenium. 
PAR'  VUM  —  Small. 

PAS  si  FLO'  RA —  ¥*om.passio,  passion,  and  flos,  a  flow- 
er; flowers  of  the  Passion;  the  early  Roman  Catholic 
Missionaries  of  South  America  finding,  in  them,  sym- 
bols of  the  Crucifixion,  —  the  crown  of  thorns  in  the 
fringes  of  the  flower,  nails  in  the  styles  with  their  cap- 
itate stigmas,  hammers  to  drive  them  in  the  stamens, 
cords  in  the  tendrils. 
PA'  TU  LA  —  Patulous,  spreading. 
PA  VO'NI  A  —  In  honor  of  Don  Josef  Pavon,  M.  D.,  of 

Madrid,  a  traveler  in  Peru. 

PE  DA' TA — Pedate  ;  when  leaves  are  cut  in  divisions, 
and  the  lower  divisions  again  lobed  they  are  said  to  be 
pedate. 
PE  NEL'  o  PE  —  The  wife  of  Ulysses  and  mother  of  Tele- 

machus. 

PKN  NA'  TA  —  See  Pinnatus. 
PEN  xi  SE'  TUM  —  From  penna,  a  feather,  and  seta,  a 

bristle. 

PEN  TA  PHYL'  LUM  —  Five-leaved. 

PENT  STE'  MON  —  From  pente,  five,  and  stemon,  a  sta- 
men ;  there  are  fourperfect  stamens  and  one  imperfect. 
PER  EN'  NE,  PER  EN'  NIS —  Perennial. 
PE  RIL'  LA  —  Meaning  unknown. 
PE  ROW  SKI  A'  NUM. 
PER'  si  CA  — Persian. 

PE  TU'  NI  A  —  The  Brazilian  name  for  Tobacco  is  Petun  ; 
applied  to  this  genus  on  account  of  ,its  affinity  to  A7- 
cotiana,  Tobacco. 
PHA  CE'  LI  A —  From  Phakelos,  a  bundle  ;  in  reference 

to  the  disposition  of  the  flowers. 
PHA  LA'  CRE  A  —  Phalacrine,  belonging  to  Phalacria,  an 

ancient  Italian  town. 
PHA  SE'  o  LUS  —  From  pliasflus,  a  little  boat;  fancied 

resemblance  in  the  pod. 
Pic'  TA — Painted,  embellished,  adorned. 
Pic  TU  RA'  TA  —  Painted,  pictured,  variegated. 
Pi  LE7  A  —  From  pileos,  a  cap ;  one  of  the  divisions  of  the 

perianth  in  Pilea  muscosa  resembles  a  cap. 
PIN  NA'  TUS  —  Pinnate  ;  when  leaflets  are  arranged  along    j 
the  sides  of  a  common  petiole. 

52 


PLA  TY  CEN' TRA  —  From  platys,  flat,  and  kentron,  a 
a  spur,  flat  spurred. 

PLATYCLA' DA  — From  platys,  flat  and  klados,  a 
branch  ;  flat-stemmed. 

PLA  TY  STE' MON — From  platys,  flat,  and  stemon,  a. 
stamen. 

PLE'NA  — Double,  full. 

PLE  NIS'  si  MA  —  Most  double. 

Po  KI'  I  cus  —  Of  the  poets,  poetical,  pertaining  to 
poetry. 

Po  LE  MO  NI  A'  CE  JR  —  A  natural  order  of  plants,  re- 
ceiving its  name  from  Polemonium,  one  of  its  genera. 

POR  TU  LA'  CA  —  From  porto,  to  carry,  and  lac,  milk  ; 
on  account  of  the  milky  juice  of  the  plants. 

POR  TU  LA  CA'  CE  f. — A  natural  order  of  plants,  of 
which  the  Portulaca  is  a  representative,  and  from 
which  it  is  named. 

Po  TEN  TIL' LA  — From  potens,  powerful;  supposed 
medicinal  qualities  of  some  of  the  species. 

POTTS'  I  i. 

PRESS'  LI  i  —  Referring  to  the  Messrs.  Prezl,  of  Prague, 
botanists  and  authors. 

PRI' MU  LA  (i  short)  —  from,  primus,  first;  in  allusion 
to  the  early  flowering  of  the  plants. 

PRI  MU  LA'  CE  JE  (i  short)  —  A  natural  order  of  plants, 
receiving  its  name  from  Primula,  one  of  its  genera. 

PRO  BOS  ci'  DE  A  (i  short)  —  Proboscis-like,  snout-like. 

PRO  CUM'  BENS  —  Trailing  on  the  ground. 

PSY'  CHE  —  A  maiden  beloved  by  Cupid,  made  immor- 
tal by  Jupiter. 

Pu  DI'  CA  —  Shame-faced,  bashful,  modest. 

PUL  CHER'  RI  MA  —  Handsomest,  most  beautiful.     . 

PUL'  CHRA  —  Beautiful,  handsome. 

Pu'  MI  LA — Dwarf. 

Pu  NI'  CE  A  (i  short)  —  Reddish,  red,  purple-colored. 

PUR  PU'  RE  A — Purple,  in  its  various  shades. 

PY  RE7  THRUM  —  From  pyr,  fire;  the  roots  are  hot  to 
the  taste. 

QUA' MO  CLIT — From  kyamos,  a  kidney -bean,  and 
klitos,  dwarf;  the  species  of  this  genus  resemble  the 
kidney-bean  in  their  climbing  stems. 

Qui  NA'  TA  —  Quinate,  with  five  leaflets. 

QUIN  QUE  FO'  LI  A  —  Five-leaved. 

QUIN  QUE  VUL'  NE  RUS — From  quinque,  five,  and  i'itl- 
nus,  a  wound. 

RA  DI  A'  TA —  Radiate  ;  furnished  with  ray  flowers. 

RA'  DI  CANS  —  Rooting. 

RA  DO  WITZ'  i  i. 

RA  MO'  SA  —  Branched,  full  of  branches. 

RA  NUN7  cu  LUS — From  rana,  a  frog;  many  cf  the  spe- 
cies are  found  in  moist  places  frequented  by  that  reptile. 

RA  NUN  cu  LA'  CE  x  —  A  natural  order  of  plants,  in- 
cluding the  Ranunculus. 

RA  NUN  cu  LO  i'  DES —  Ranunculus-formed,  resembling 
the  Ranunculus. 

RA  YEN'  NX. 

REE  VE' si  I  —  Referring  to  John  Reeves,  F.  L.  S.,  of 
Canton,  from  whom  the  botany  of  China  has  received 
material  assistance,  and  to  whom  horticulture  is  in- 
debted for  many  of  its  fairest  ornaments. 

RE  TI  cu  LA'  TA  —  Reticulated  ;  interlaced  with  net- 
work. 

RE  TU' sus — Retuse;  a  leaf  is  said  to  be  retuse  when 
there  is  a  depression  at  the  end  where  the  point 
should  be. 

REX  —  The  king. 

RHO  DAN' THE — From  rhodon,a.  rose,  and  anthos,a. 
flower;  in  allusion  to  the  color  of  the  flower-heads. 

RI  CHAR' DI  A  (ch  soft) — In  honor  of  L.  C.  Richard, 
an  eminent  French  botanist. 

RI  ci' NUS  —  From  ricinus,  a  tick ;  resemblance  in  the 
seeds. 


RCE  MER  I  A'  XA. 

Ro7  SEA  —  Rose-colored. 

Ro  TUX  DI  re/  LI  us  —  Round-leaved. 

Ru7  BER,  Ru7  BRA,  Rf  BRO'  RUM,  Ro  BER7  RI  MA — Red. 

SA  LI  ci  FO7  LI  us  —  Willow-leaved ;  from  talijc,  a  w:!- 
low  tree,  andyW/'xj  a  leaf. 

SAL  PI  OLDS'  sis —  From  salpinj:,  a  tube,  and  glossa,  a    ! 
tongue ;  alluding  to  the  tongue-like  style  in  the  mouth 
of  the  corolla. 

SAL'  vi  A  —  From  salvo,  to  save  ;  m  allusion  to  the  heal- 
ing qualities  of  the  sage. 

SAX  DER  so'  xi  i  —  In    reference    to     John    Sanderson, 
Secretary  of  the  Horticultural  Society  of  Natal,  South 
:a. 

SAX  FORD'  i  i. 

SAN  i,ri'  NE  us  —  Crimson  ;  the  color  of  blood. 

SAX  vi  TA7  LI  A —  Derivation  unknown  :  probably  a 
man's  name. 

SAX  A'  TI  LE —  From  saxatilis,  that  dwells  or  is  found 
among  rocks. 

SCA  BI  o7  SA —  From  scaties,  leprosy  ;  some  of  the  spe- 
cies are  said  to  be  useful  in  cutaneous  diseases. 

SCA'  BEK —  Rough,  scurfy. 

ScAN7  DEXS — Climbing. 

SCHIZAX'THUS — From  schizo,  to  cut,  and  ant  hoi,  a 
flower;  in  allusion  to  the  irregularly  divided  corolla. 

SCHEV  ER  I  A'  NUM. 

SCHULZ'I  I  Schultz,  pronounced  like  Shoolts) — Refer- 
ring to  John  Henry  Schultz,  an  eminent  German  botan- 
ist. 

SCIL'  LA  —  From  skyllo,  to  injure ;  the  roots  are  poison- 
ous. 

SCRO  PHU  LA  RI  A'  CE  m. — A  natural  order  of  plants,  in- 
cluding the  Scrophularia,  from  which  it  receives  its 
name  ;  from  scrophvla,  scrofula,  from  its  supposed  use 
in  the  cure  of  the  scrofula. 

Scv  PAN*  THUS — From  tcyphos,  a  cup,  and  anthos,  a 
flower ;  in  reference  to  the  shape  of  the  flower. 

SEL  Low7  ii  —  In  reference  to  M.  Sellow. 

SEM  PER  FLO'  REXS  —  Continuous  flowering 

SER  vs.  FO'  LI  A. 

SE  n'  GE  RA  —  Setaceous  ;  bristle  -  bearing,  having 
coarse  hairs  or  bristles. 

SE  To7  SA — Setous ;  full  of  coarse  hairs  or  bristles. 

Si  BE'  RT.  CA —  Siberian. 

Si'  cu  LUM  —  Sicilian,  of  or  from  Sicily. 

SIE  BOL'  DI  i  iSie  pronounced  like  See.) 

Si  LE7  XE  —  From  xialon,  saliva;  in  allusion  to  the  vis- 
cid moisture  on  the  stalks  of  many  of  the  species,  by 
which  the  smaller  kinds  of  flies  are  entrapped ;  hence, 
also,  the  English  name  of  the  genus,  Catchfly. 

Si  LE  NA'  CE  x — A  natural  order  of  plants,  including 
the  Silene,  and  from  which  it  receives  its  name. 
••'  sis  —  Chinese. 

Si  NU  A'  TA — Sinuate,  bending,  winding. 

SKIN' XER  i — Referring  to  Captain  Thomas  Skinner, 
a  distinguished  botanist. 

So  LA'  XUM  —  Derivation  uncertain. 

So  LA  NA'  CE  x.  —  A  natural  order  of  plants,  containing 
the  Solanum,  and  from  which  it  receives  its  name. 

SOM  NI'  FEKUM  (i  short)  —  From  sain  us,  sleep,  and/era, 
to  bear ;  producing  sleep. 

SPE  ci  o7  SA  (e short) —  Showy,  handsome,  splendid,  bril- 
liant. 

SPE  ci  o  sis'  si  MA  (e  short) — Superlative  of  speciosa. 

SPE7  cu  LUM  (e  short)  —  A  looking-glass,  mirror. 

SPI  CA'  TA — Spicate  ;  in  the  form  of  a  spike. 

SPLEX'  DENS — Bright,  shining,  glittering,  brilliant. 

SPRA'  GUE  A —  In  honor  of  Isaac  Sprague,  an  American 
botanical  artist. 

STA'TI  CE  —  From  statiza,  to  stop;  in  allusion  to  the 
powerful  astringency  of  some  of  the  species. 


STEL  LA'  TA — Stellate  ;  starry,  sparkling,  glittering. 
STE*  RI  LIS  'i  short)  —  Sterile. 

STE7  VEX  I. 

STI'  PA  —  From  tlipe,  a  silky  or  feathery  substance. 
STRI  A'  TA — Striate;  striped. 
STRic7  TUM  —  Bound  or  pressed  together. 
STU  AR7  TI  i. 

Su  A  VE  of  LENS — Sweet-smell-ng,  fragrant. 
SUB  CCE  RU7  LE  us — From   tub,    under,   and  ctfruleus, 
dark-colored,  dark  blue,  coerulean ;  a  shade  somewhat 
lighter  than  coerulean. 
SUL  CA'  TUM  —  Furrowed,  channeled. 
SUL  PHU7  RE  us  —  Sulphur  color. 
Su  PER7  BA  —  Superb. 

Su  si  A'  NA  —  From  Susia,  the  ancient  capital  of  Persia. 
TA  KES7  i  MA  —  A  Japanese  name. 

TAX  A  CE  TI  Fo7  LI  A — Tanacctum-leaved,    or    Tansy- 
leaved. 
TEN  u  i  FO7  LI  A  —  From    ttnuis,    thin,     fine,    slender, 

aa&foliuf,  a  leaf;  fine-leaved. 
TER  MI  XA'  LIS  —  Terminal. 
TEX  A'  NUM  —  Texan  ;  from  Texas. 
THEL  LUS  so*  M  i. 
THOU  ix7  i  i  —  In  reference  to  M.  Thouin,   Professor  of 

Agriculture  at  Pans. 

THUN  BER  GI  A'  NUM  —  Referring  to  Thunberg,  a  Swed- 
ish botanist  and  traveler. 
TI  GRI'  DI  A  (i  short) —  From  tigrit,  a  tiger,  and  eidoi, 

like ;  in  reference  to  the  spotted  flowers. 
Tl  GRI'  xus  —  Tiger-like ;  barred  or  spotted  like  a  Tiger. 
Tixc  TO'  RI  A —  Pertaining  to  dyeing. 
TRA  DBS  CAX7  TI  A —  In  honor  of  John  Tradescant,  gar- 
dener to  Charles  I. 

TRi7  COL  OR  (i  short) — Three-colored. 
TRI  CHO  SAN7  THES  —  From  thrix,  a  hair,  and  attihos,  a 

flower ;  the  corollas  are  ciliated. 

TRI  TO7  MA  (i  short) — From  treii,  three,  and  temno,  to 
cut ;  in  allusion  to  the  three  sharp  edges  of  the  ends  of 
the  leaves. 

TRI  UM'  PHANS —  Triumphant. 

TROP.S'OLUM —  From  tropaian,  a  trophy ;  the  leaves 
resemble  a  buckler,  and  the  flowers  an  empty  helmet. 
ToR7  RET  i  — Referring  to  Dr.  John  Torrey,  the  Ameri- 
can botanist. 

TRY  CHO  UE7  NA  —  Meaning  unexplained. 
Tu  BE  RO7  SA  —  Tuberous. 
Tr/LlPA — (Tulip,)   Said    to  be   from    Thoulyban,  its 

Persian  name. 

TWEED' i  A — In  compliment  to  Mr.  James  Tweedie, 
who  was  an  intelligent  and  indefatigable  collector  of 
plants  in  Brazil  and  Buenos  Ay  res. 

UMBEL  LA7  TA — Umbellate;     having   the    flowers    ar- 
ranged in  a  round,  flat  head,  with  the  peduncles  origi- 
nating from  a  common  center. 
U  si'  co  LOR  i  i  short)  —  One  color. 

VA  LE  RI  A'  XA  —  Said  by  some  to  be  named  after  Vale- 
rius who  first   used  it  in   medicine ;  others  suppose  it 
to  be  derived  from  -valere,  to  be  in  health,  on  account 
of  the  medicinal  qualities  of  V.  offitinalis. 
VA  LE  RI  AN  A'  CE  .£ —  A  natural   order  of  plants,  con- 
taining the  genus  Valeriana,  from  which  it  is  named. 
VA  RI  A'  BI  us — Variable. 

VEITCH'  I  i  —  Alluding  to  the  Messrs.  Veitch,  the  cele- 
brated florists,  of  England. 
VE  xo'  SA  —  Full  of  veins,  veiny,  venous. 
VE  xus' TUM — Lovely,    comely,      charming,    pleasing, 

winning,  agreeable,  graceful,  beautiful. 
VE'  RA  —  True,  real,  genuine. 

VER  BE7  NA  —  Said  to  be  from  its  Celtic  name  Fer/aen. 
VER  BE  XA'  CE  .*  —  A  natural  order  of  plants,  of  which 
Verbena  is  a  representative,  and  from  which  it  takes 
its  name. 


VER  NA'  us —  Pertaining  to  the  spring;  vernal. 
VE  RO'  NI  CA  —  Derivation  of  the  word  is  unknown. 
VER  SCHAF  FELT'  i  I —  In  reference  to  M.  Verschaffelt, 

horticulturist  at  Ghent. 
VER  si'  COL  OR  —  That  changes  its  color ;  various  colors, 

party-colored. 
VES'  TA  —  The  mythological  goddess  of  flocks  and  herds 

and  the  household  in  general. 
Vi  DA'  LIS. 
VIN'  CA  —  Probably  from  vinculum,  a  band ;  in  allusion 

to  the  long,  flexible  shoots. 
Vi'  o  LA  —  The  Latin  name  of  the  flowers,  and  perhaps 

derived  from  ion,  another  name  of  the  same  flower. 
Vi  o  LA'  CE  x,  —  A  natural  order  of  plants,  of  which  the 

Violet  is  the  principal  genus,  and  from  which  it  re- 
ceives its  name. 
VIR  GI  NI  A'  NA  —  Virginian. 
Vis  CA'  RI  A —  From  viscus,  birdlime  ;  in  allusion  to  the 

glutinous  stems. 
Vis'  ci  DA  —  Clammy,  sticky,  viscid. 


VIT  TA'  TA  — Bound  with  a  fillet  or  chaplet. 

VUL  GA'  RIS  —  Common. 

WAIT'  zi  A —  Derivation  uncertain. 

WARS  ZE  wic'  zi  I  —  In  reference  to  Joseph  Von  Wars- 

cewicz,  a  Polish  nobleman,  and  an   ardent  amateur 

botanist  and  plant  collector. 

WASH  ING  TO  NI  A'  NUM  —  Referring     to     Washington 
WEL  TO  NI  EN7  sis — Of  or  from  Welton. 
WHIT  LA'  VI  A  —  Named    by    the     lamented    Professor 

Harvey,  for  his  friend  Whitla. 

WIERCZ  BECK'  I  I  (Wierc  pronounced  like  Weerce.) 
WKAN  GEL  i  A'  NA. 

WRIGHT7  I  I. 

XE  RAN' THE  MUM  —  From  xeros,  dry,  and  anthemon, 
a  flower  ;  alluding  to  the  dryness  of  the  flower,  which 
retains  its  color  and  form  for  years. 

ZE  NO'  BI  A  —  A  Queen  of  Palmyra. 

ZIN'  NI  A  —  In  honor  of  John  Godfrey  Zinn,  formerly  A 
Professor  of  botany  at  Gottingen. 


USEFUL  TABLES. 


Plants  upon  an  Acre  of  Ground. 

Distances  apart.                                           No.  of  Plants.  Distances  apart.                                            No.  of  Plants. 

6  inches  by  6  inches, 174,240       3  feet  by  3  feet, 4,840 

1  foot  by  i  foot,      43,560       4  feet  by  4  feet, 2,722 

i%  foot  by  i  %  foot, I9,36o       5  feet  by  5  feet, ',742 

2  feet  by  i  foot,      21,780       6  feet  by  6  feet, 1,210 

2  feet  by  2  feet, 10,890       8  feet  by  8  feet, 680 

3  feet  by  2  feet, 7,26o        10  feet  by  10  feet, 435 

Quantity  of  Seed  usually  sown  upon  one  Acre. 

About.  About . 

Dwarf  Beans,  in  drills, i  to  i%  bush.        Squash, 2  Ibs. 

Pole  Beans,  in  hills,      8  to  12  qts.        Salsify,  in  drills, 6  to  8  Ibs. 

Early  Peas,  in  drills, iJ4  bush.        Sweet  Corn,  (for  soiling,) 2  to  3  bush. 

Marrowfat  Peas,  in  drills,      4  bush.        Turnip, 1%  Ibs. 

Corn,  in  hills, 8  qts.        Chinese  Sugar  Cane, 10  to  12  qts. 

Beet,  in  drills, 4  to  5  Ibs.        Broom  Corn,  in  hills,      10  to  12  qts. 

Carrot,  in  drills, 2  to  3  Ibs.        White  Clover,  alone, 12  to  15  Ibs. 

Cucumber,  in  drills, i  to  2  Ibs.        Blue  Grass,  alone,  (for  lawn,) 56  Ibs. 

Onion,  in  drills, 4  to  6  Ibs.        Rye  Grass,  alone, 2  bush. 

Parsnip,  in  drills, 4  to  5  Ibs.        Orchard  Grass, 2  to  3  bush. 

Radish,  in  drills, 6  to  8  Ibs.        Mixed  Lawn  Grass, 4  bush. 

Spinach,  in  drills, 8  to  10  Ibs.        Red  Top  Grass,  alone,  (for  lawn,; 4  bush. 

Seed  required  for  a  given  number  of  Plants,  Ac. 

i  oz.  Asparagus  will  produce  about      5°°  plants. 

i  oz.  Brocoli,  Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  Egg  Plant,  Kale,  Tomato,  Leek,  or  Pepper, 3000  plants. 

i  oz.  Celery,  Endive,  or  Lettuce,  will  produce  about 6000  plants. 

i  oz.  Okra,  or  Spinach  may  be  allotted  for  every " 100  feet  of  row. 

i  oz.  Beet,  Onions,  Radish,  or  Salsify,  may  be  allotted  for  every 1 75  feet  of  row . 

i  oz.  Carrot,  Parsley,  Parsnip,  or  Turnip,  may  be  allotted  for  every ...    .  200  feet  of  row . 

i  oz.  Cucumber  is  sufficient  for J5°  hills. 

i  oz.  Musk  Melon  is  sufficient  for .  100  to  125  hills. 

i  oz.  Water  Melon  is  sufficient  for .  40  to  60  hills. 

i  oz.  Pumpkin,  or  Squash  is  sufficient  for 40  to  80  hills. 

i  qt.  Field  Pumpkin  is  sufficient  for 400  to  500  hills. 

i  qt.  Dwarf  or  Bush  Beans  is  sufficient  for 200  teet  of  row,  or  300  hills. 

i  qt.  Pole  Beans  is  sufficient  for 100  to  200  hills. 

i  qt.  Peas  is  sufficient  for 150  to  200  feet  of  row. 


54 


ANNUALS 


THK  first  and  most  important  section  of  our  FLOWER  GARDEN  is  composed  mainly  of 
ANNUALS,  that  is,  those  plants  that  live  but  one  season.  The  seeds  are  sown  in  the  spring,  the 
plants  arrive  at  maturity  in  the  early  summer,  bud,  blossom,  ripen  their  seeds,  and  die  in  the 
autumn,  having  performed  their  entire  mission.  This  class  of  plants,  from  their  nature,  are 
valuable  treasures  to  both  the  amateur  and  professional  gardener.  There  is  no  forgotten  spot 
in  the  garden,  none  which  early  flowering  bulbs  or  other  spring  flowers  have  left  unoccupied  that 
need  remain  bare  during  the  summer ;  no  bed  but  can  be  made  brilliant  with  these  favorites,  for 
there  is  no  situation  or  soil  in  which  some  of  the  varieties  will  not  flourish.  Some  members 
delight  in  shade,  others  in  sunshine ;  some  are  pleased  with  a  cool  clay  bed,  while  others  are 
never  so  comfortable  as  in  a  sandy  soil  and  burning  sun.  The  seed,  too,  is  so  cheap  as  to  be 
within  the  reach  of  all,  while  a  good  collection  of  bedding  plants  would  not  come  within  the 
resources  of  many,  and  yet  very  few  beds  filled  with  expensive  bedding  plants  look  as  well  as  a 
good  bed  of  our  best  Annuals,  like  Phlox,  Petunia  or  Portulaca,  and  for  a  vase  or  basket  many 
of  our  Annuals  are  unsurpassed.  Though  we  risk  our  reputation  for  good  taste,  perhaps,  in 
making  this  statement,  yet  we  have  seen  nothing  better,  and  few  things  that  we  shall  remember 
longer  or  more  pleasantly  than  a  vase  filled  almost  entirely  with  the  striped  Petunia,  and  showing 
all  day  and  every  day  hundreds  of  flowers.  To  the  Annuals,  also,  we  are  indebted  mainly  for 
our  brightest  and  best  flowers  in  the  late  summer  and  autumn  months.  Without  the  Phlox  and 
Petunia  and  Portulaca  and  Aster  and  Stock,  our  autumn  gardens  would  be  poor  indeed,  and  how 
we  would  miss  the  sweet  fragrance  of  the  Alyssum,  Mignonette  and  Sweet  Pea  if  any  ill-luck 
should  deprive  us  of  these  sweet  favorites.  Many  of  our  beautiful  climbers,  such  as  the  Convol- 
vulus and  Cobcea  scandens,  and  nearly  all  our  Everlastings  and  Ornamental  Grasses  are  included 
in  this  section. 

This  Department,  however,  embraces  some  Perennials,  but  only  those  that  flower  the  first 
season,  though  they  do  not  die  at  its  close,  like  the  Annuals.  Among  these  are  the  Pansy,  Dian- 
thus,  Antirrhinum,  &c.,  that  live  for  several  years  under  favorable  circumstances.  In  our  country, 
however,  most  of  these  are  usually  short-lived,  and  are  really  only  to  be  considered  as  hardy 
Annuals.  Under  the  influence  of  spring  showers  and  summer  suns  they  mature  rapidly,  and 
flower  so  freely  that  by  autumn  the  plants  are  so  exhausted  they  cannot  endure  the  rigor  of  our 
winters,  and  in  the  spring  are  usually  worthless,  if  not  entirely  lifeless.  By  removing  a  portion 
of  the  flowers  in  the  summer,  and  encouraging  a  vigorous  growth,  this  class  of  plants  will  remain 
in  perfection  at  least  two  years.  If  seed  is  sown  late  in  the  spring,  or  even  in  summer,  young 
plants  will  give  but  few,  if  any,  flowers  the  first  season,  and  the  second  summer  will  be  in  perfec- 
tion. Many  of  the  flowers  that  we  treat  as  Annuals,  sowing  fresh  seeds  and  growing  new  plants 
every  year,  because  the  plants  are  destroyed  by  frost  in  the  autumn,  are  really  Biennials  or  Per- 
ennials in  their  Southern  home. 

55 


ABRONIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Nyctaginacea. 

BRONIAS  are  trailing  plants,  with  prostrate  branches,  several  feet  in 
length,  and  bearing  clusters  of  sweet-scented  flowers ;  somewhat 
resembling  the  Verbena,  both  in  flower  and  habit  of  plant,  though 
more  robust.  The  Abronias  are  natives  of  California,  and  in  their 
natural  home  make  a  beautiful  flowery  carpet.  The  yellow  variety, 
arenaria,  delights  in  the  most  barren  sand  hills,  and  on  the  borders 
of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  within  a  few  feet  of 
high  water,  with  no  other  sign  of  vegeta- 
tion around,  we  have  seen  the  clean  white 
sand  hills  made  gay  by  this  pretty  plant, 
which  is  known  on  the  coast  of  California 
as  the  Sand-plant.  Umbellata  is  a  deli- 
cate pink  with  a  good  deal  of  fragrance. 
The  seed  does  not  always  germinate  freely,  and  the  plants  in  some  sections  do  not  seem  to  grow 
with  their  native  vigor.  Start  the  seed  under  glass,  first  removing  the  husky  covering.  The 
Abronias,  when  they  succeed,  are  deservedly  admired,  and  therefore  have  some  warm  friends. 

ADONIS,   Nat.  Ord.  Ranunculacece. 

The  Adonis,  a  native  of  Europe,  is  of  the  easiest  culture.  The  finely  cut  foliage  is  ratht-r 
pretty.  The  flowers,  by  no  means  abundant,  are  of  an  intensely  deep  blood  red  color,  and  cup 
shaped.  The  legend  is  that  this  flower  sprang  from  the  blood  of 
Adonis,  when  he  was  wounded  by  the  boar.  It  will  grow  well  in 
the  shade  or  under  trees,  and  this  we  consider  its  principal  recom- 
mendation. A  clump  under  a  tree  or  in  a  shady  corner  of  the 
garden,  or  under  a  hedge,  or  near  a  rustic  summer  house,  is  desir- 
able, but  we  would  not  recommend  it  for 
small  gardens  or  limited  collections.  It 
is  an  every  day  plant  and  will  fill  a  modest 
place  very  satisfactorily ;  but  if  we  attempt 
to  make  much  of  it,  or  put  it  on  exhibi- 
tion it  will  disappoint  and  mortify  us. 
Flowers,  like  people,  have  places  where 
they  do  themselves  and  their  friends  credit, 
while  in  other  situations  there  is  gene- 
ral disappointment  and  mortification.  Seeds  may  be  sown  in  the  garden,  and  plants  should  be 
about  a  foot  apart. 

AGERATUM,  Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 

A  Mexican  flower,  of  a  brush-like  appearance,  not  showy  in  the  garden,  but  prized  by  florists, 
because  it  bears  a  great  many  flowers,  and  keeps  in  bloom  a  long  time,  and  is,  therefore,  desirable 
for  bouquet  making.  In  fact,  there  are  very  few  flowers  that  will  work  up  to  better  advantage, 
and  give  a  more  chaste  appearance  to  a  small 
bouquet  than  the  white  or  delicately  tinted  blue 
Ageratum,  and  as  it  will  grow  well  in  the  house, 
is  Always  a  favorite  with  both  amateurs  and 
florists.  Its  name  has  reference  to  the  long  con- 
tinued flowering  of  the  plant,  and  also  of  the  fact 
that  the  flowers  will  remain  fresh  for  a  long  time 
after  being  gathered,  and  a  very  liberal  transla- 
tion would  be  ever-young.  It  is  well  to  start 
the  seeds  under  glass,  and  then  transplant  to  the 
flowering  fled.  Take  up  the  smallest  plants  in  October,  and  pot  them  for  winter  use.  If  no 
glass  is  to  be  had,  select  a  mellow  soil  and  a  sheltered  spot  for  the  seed  bed,  and  cover  the  seeds 
but  slightly.  Set  plants  six  or  eight  inches  apart  to  form  a  bed  in  the  garden.  A  few  seeds 
sown  the  latter  part  of  August,  if  the  soil  is  kept  moist  and  shaded,  will  make  young  plants  fit  for 
potting  for  winter  flowers. 


AGROSTKMMA,   (Viscaria,)  Nat.  Ord.  Caryophyllacea:. 

The  annual  Agrostemmas,  or,  more  correctly,  Viscartas,  are  very  pretty,  free  blooming  and 
hardy  annuals,  making  desirable  beds  and  useful  for  cutting.  The  flowers  are  something  like  a 
single  Pink,  and  are  borne  on  long,  slender  stems.  The  plants  are 
of  a  rather  straggling  habit,  and  produce  abundance 
of  flowers  with  but  very  little  foliage,  so  that  a  single 
plant,  or  a  few  plants  set  widely  apart,  do  not  present 
a  very  pretty  appearance ;  but  when  planted  thickly 
in  a  bed,  form  a  mass  of  color  quite  satisfactory,  resem- 
bling a  good  bed  of  the  bright  colored  Phlox  Drum- 
mondii.  This  flower  was  introduced  into  England 
from  Sicily  more  than  a  hundred  years  since,  and  is 

quite  popular  and  common  in  English  gardens,  and  is  considered  effective  in 
producing  a  mass  of  bright  color.  We  have  had  very  good  results  in  sowing  this 
seed  in  the  bed  where  it  was  intended  to  bloom,  thinning  out  the  plants  but  very  little, 
if  any.  We  have  been  much  pleased  with  it  as  a  plant  for  edgings  for  beds  of  Gladiolus  or 
other  tall  plants.  Grows  about  twelve  inches  in  height,  and  should  be  set  about  six  inches  apart. 

ALONSOA,  Nat.  Ord.  Serophulariacece. 

The  Alonsoas  are  natives  of  Chili  and  Peru,  and  when  first  introduced  into  Europe  were 
treated  as  green-house  plants,  but  of  late  years  have  been  generally  cultivated  as  tender  or  half- 
hardy  annuals.  Young  plants  removed  to  the  house  or  green-house 
in  the  autumn  will  continue  to  flower  during  the  winter.  The 
flowers  are  small,  but  of  remarkably  brilliant  colors,  in  which  respect  \ 
they  are  excelled  by  very  few  of  our  richly 
colored  flowers.  We  have  succeeded  best 
t>y  sowing  seed  under  glass  and  trans 
planting,  in  this  latitude  about  the  first  of 
June,  and  as  the  plant  is  inclined  to  be  hard-  ^ 
wooded,  any  young  plants  taken  up  and 
potted  will  assume  a  shrub-like  form  and 
continue  to  grow  and  flower  for  a  long 
time.  This  flower  has  been  cultivated  for 
about  fifty  years,  and  the  improvement 
since  its  introduction  has  not  been  marked. 

ALYSSUM,  Nat.  Ord.  Crudferee. 

The  Sweet  Alyssum  is  one  of  those  modest  plants  that  everybody  likes  and  every  one  must 
have.  Its  pretty  little  white  flowers  are  so  purely  white,  and  so  useful  in  making  up  all  kinds  of 
small  bouquets,  and  its  fragrance,  while  sufficiently  pronounced,  so  very 
delicate,  reminding  one  of  the  peculiar  aroma  of  the  hay-field,  that  no 
florist  feels  satisfied  unless  he  has  a  little  bed  of  Alyssum  that  he  can 
resort  to  at  all  times  when  delicate  flowers  are  needed.  The  Alyssum 
grows  freely  from  seed,  either  under  glass  or  in  the  open  ground,  though 
it  does  not  germinate  freely  in  the  open  ground  in  dry,  hot  weather. 
For  a  low,  white  edging  or  border,  the  Alyssum  is  excellent,  as  its  habit 
is  good,  and  height  only  about  six  inches.  The  little  black  flea  that 
destroys  Cabbage  and  Turnip  in  the  seed-leaf  is 
exceedingly  fond  of  Alyssum,  and  will  destroy 
whole  beds.  Dusting  with  fine  ashes  is  of 
advantage,  and  if  a  little  fine  snuff  is  mixed  with 
the  ashes  the  effect  is  better.  The  Alyssum  was 
first  found  wild  on  the  shores  of  the  Mediterra- 
nean, and  is  now  found  growing  on  the  rocky 
•cliffs  of  some  parts  ot  the  English  coast,  but  is  supposed  to  have  become  naturalized ;  that  is,  the 
seeds  were  accidentally  carried  from  gardens  to  the  fields  and  woods  by  birds  or  some  other  means. 


AMARANTH  US,   Nat.  Ord.  Amarantacece. 

The  Amaranthus  embraces  a  large  class  of  plants,  and  some  of  them  so  diversified  ir> 
character  that,  to  the  casual  observer,  they  hardly  seem  to  belong  to  the  same  family.  They 
are  mainly,  however,  valuable  for  their  ornamental  foliage,  the  leaves  of 
most  varieties  being  highly  colored,  while  in  some  the  form  as  well  as 
color  is  desirable.  The  present  popularity  of  ornamental  leaved  plants 
for  bedding  out  renders  this  class  more  than  usually  interesting. 
The  great  difference  of  habit  makes  it  necessary  to  give  engravings  of  the 
varieties,  showing  the  more  marked  distinctions.  The  drooping  flower 
shows  A.  caudatus,  sometimes  called  Love  Lies  Bleeding,  a  rather  coarse 
plant,  yet  graceful  and  excellent  for  autumn  decoration,  with  racemes  of 
flowers  sometimes  two  to  three  feet  in  length.  Another  variety,  Prince's 
Feather,  has  flowers  nearly  similar,  but  arranged  in  erect  spikes.  The 
smallest  engraving  represents  bi- 
color,  tricolor  and  several  other 
sorts  of  about  the  same 
habit,  though  differing 
in  color.  The  large 
engraving  gives  a  very 
good  representation  of 
salicifolius,  or  the 
Fountain  Plant,  a  free 
growing  plant  that 
sometimes  reaches  a 
height  of  five  feet  or 
more,  and  is  a  very 
pretty  object  in  a  suit- 
able position.  The  ( 
Amaranthus  are  half- 
hardy  plants,  and  use- 
ful in  many  situations,  as  the  back -ground  of  a  flower  bed,  a  bed  on  the  lawn,  or  as  an  orna- 
mental hedge.  In  a  rich  soil,  where  plants  make  a  vigorous  growth,  the  varieties  with  bright 
colors  sometimes  become  dull.  It  is  unfortunate  that  we  cannot  always  rely  on  the  color,  no 
matter  how  fine  the  plants  from  which  the  seeds  are  derived,  but  success  is  most  assured  in  a 
warm,  dry  season,  and  in  a  light  or  rather  poor  soil.  The  Amaranthus  is  a  native  of  the  East 
Indies,  but  has  been  in  cultivation  in  Europe  since  the  days  of  Queen  ELIZABETH,  and  in 
America  since  its  first  settlement.  The  name  is  a  favorite  with  poets,  and  means  never-wither 
ing.  The  leaves  of  the  species  of  Amaranthus  are  wholesome  food,  and  many  varieties  are  eaten, 
in  their  native  countries,  like  Spinach. 

ANAGALLIS,  Nat.  Ord*.  Primulacece. 

The  genus  Anagallis  is  remarkable  for  the  beauty  of  its  flowers,  for  even  our  wild  scarlet 
Pimpernel,  or  Poor  Man's  Weather  Glass,  is  one  of  the  prettiest  of  our  small  wild  flowers.  The 
improved  garden  varieties  are  very  desirable  for  small  beds,  edgings, 
baskets,  &c.  The  plants  usually  do  not  exceed  six  inches  in  height, 
and  when  set  in  a  bed  thickly,  cover  the  ground  with  a  constant 
profusion  of  rich  flowers.  The  Anagallis  has  representatives  among 
the  wild  flowers  of  a  large  portion  of  the  world, 
from  some  of  which  importations  have  been 
made  to  America  and  Europe,  and  the  hybrids 
obtained  by  our  florists  exhibit  great  improve- 
ment. Sow  under  glass,  if  possible,  and  set 
the  plants  not  more  than  six  inches  apart. 
The  Anagallis  is  one  of  those  honest,  every- 
day flowers  that,  while  it  will  not  astonish  any  one,  cannot  fail  to  meet  the  anticipations  of  every 
lover  of  flowers. 

58 


ANTIRRHINUM,   (Snapdragon,)  Nat.  Ord.  Scrophulariacece. 
The  Antirrhinum,  perhaps  better  known  by  its  old  and  popular  name,  Snapdragon,  is  one  of 

the  very  best  of  our  Perennials,  and  one  that  always  gives  a  good  account  of  itself  the  first  season, 

blooming  abundantly  all  the  first  sum- 
mer, even  until  after  frost.  Sometimes 
the  plants  suffer  in  winter,  especially 
when  permitted  to  exhaust  themselves 
by  excessive  flowering,  but  they  gener- 
ally flower  well  the  second  season,  and 
sometimes  the  third.  When  it  is  desir- 
ed to  keep  the  plants  for  flowering  the 
second  or  third  season,  never  allow  seed 
to  form ;  and  if  one  half  the  plant  is  cut 
down  to  near  the  surface  of  the  ground 
about  the  middle  of  summer,  new  vig- 
orous shoots  will  be  produced  for  the 

next  season's  flowering.     They  exhibit  a  fine  variety  of  colors  and  are  exceedingly  brilliant.     Sow 

either  in  the  frame  or  garden,  early  in  spring.     Easily  transplanted.     Set  six  to  nine  inches  apart. 

The  Antirrhinum  is  easy  to  grow  and  sure  to  please,  and  we  ask  those  who  do  not  cultivate  this 

flower  to  give  it  a  trial. 

ARGEMONE,  Nat.  Ord.  Papaveracea;. 

The  Argemones  are  free  blooming  hardy  annuals,  with  large  flowers,  resembling  a  single 
Poppy,  while  the  leaves  are  armed  with  slender  prickles,  and  very  much  resemble  Thistle  leaves, 
hence  the  Argemone  is  known  almost  every  where  as  the  Prickly 
Poppy.  Natives  of  Mexico  and  Peru,  and  some  of  the  species 
were  introduced  into  Europe  more 
than  two  hundred  years  since. 
The  plants  grow  two  feet  in  height 
and  make  a  very  good  low  screen 
or  hedge,  for  which  purpose  set  the 
plants  about  ten  inches  apart  in  the 
rows.  The  foliage  is  not  only 
large  and  very  pretty  in  form,  but 
of  a  pleasant  light  green  color,  and 
it  can  be  easily  imagined  that  with 
its  large,  Poppy-like  flowers  a 
hedge  of  Argemone  must  be  an  interesting  object.  Very  few  summer  hedges  will  look  better. 
The  engraving  shows  the  flower  less  than  one-half  the  natural  size. 

ASPERULA,  Nat.  Ord.  Rubiaccue. 

Asperula  azurea  setosa  is  a  profuse  blooming  hardy  little  annual  from  the  Caucasian  Moun- 
tains, and  only  introduced  to  cultivation  a  few  years  since.  It  is  of  dwarf  habit,  growing  less 
than  a  foot  in  height,  and  bearing  many  clusters  of  small,  light  blue 
or  lavender,  sweet-scented  flowers.  This  is  one  of  the  class  of 
pretty,  neat  little  flowers  which  some  persons  admire  on  account 
of  their  delicate  beauty,  and  which  many  condemn  as  weedy  and 
worthless,  because  they  make  no  show  in  the  garden.  For  making 
up  in  small  bouquets  the  Asperula  is  all  that 
can  be  desired.  The  engraving  shows  the 
habit  of  the  plant  as  well  as  the  size  of  the 
flower,  and  from  this  a  pretty  good  idea  may 
be  obtained  of  the  use  to  which  it  is  adapted. 
We  design  to  be  quite  particular  on  this 
point,  because  many  of  our  choicest  little  gems  are  evil  spoken  of,  just  because  their  friends  do 
not  give  them  a  proper  introduction. 

56 


ASTER,  Nat.  Ord.  Composites. 

The  Aster  was  popular  when  we  had  our  little  garden  nearly  half  a  century  ago.  We  used 
to  call  it  then  CHINA  ASTER,  but  those  children  who  wished  to  be  very  nice  would  say  Reine 
Marguerite,  and  would  often  get  laughed  at  for  preferring  so  hard  a  name,  just  because  it  was 
French.  The  Aster  was  sent  to  France  from  China  by  a  Missionary, 
and  the  English  name  means  China  Star,  while  the  French  is  Queen 
Daisy.  Is  was  then  a  single,  showy  flower,  bearing  not  much  more 
1  resemblance  to  the  Aster  of  to-day  than  the  Mayweed  does  to  the 
Dahlia.  However,  we  thought  it  very  pretty,  and  it  afforded  us  a 
great  deal  of  pleasure.  We  never  see  a  poor  single  flower  come  up 
among  the  good  ones,  and  we  occasionally  find  such,  but  we  are 
reminded  of  early  days  and  childish  friendships.  We  thought  an 
engraving  showing  the  character  of  the  Aster  as  it  was  when  imported 
might  be  interesting  to  our  readers,  and  therefore  give  a  small  sketch. 
The  Aster  now  is  a  general  favorite,  and  its  popularity  is  on  the 
increase.  For  an  Autumn  show  of  flowers,  we  were  about  to  say,  we  have  not  its  equal,  but  we 
are  reminded  that  when  we  get  enthusiastic  over  any  of  our  special  favorites,  we  are  ready  to  say 
the  same  thing  about  a  good  many.  Perhaps  we  can  safely  say  that  for  an  autumn  display  it  has 
no  successful  rival  among  the  Annuals.  Give  the  Aster  a  deep,  rich  soil,  and  mulching  with 
coarse  manure  is  very  beneficial,  and  if  extra  fine  flowers  are  needed  for  exhibition  or  any  other 
purpose,  a  little  liquid  manure  occasionally  will  give  the  most  gratifying  results.  Plants  may  be 
grown  in  the  hot-bed,  cold-frame,  or  a  seed-bed  in  the  garden,  but  to  obtain  good  flowers  the 
Aster  plant  must  be  strong  and  "  stocky."  A  plant  that  is  what  garden- 
ers call  "  drawn"  will  never  produce  very  fine  flowers.  A  "  drawn" 
plant  is  one  that,  by  being  crowded  in  the  seed-bed,  or  some  other 
cause,  has  become  tall,  slender  and  weak.  The  Aster  transplants  easily. 
Twelve  inches  apart  is  the  proper  distance  for  making  a  showy  bed  of  the 
large  varieties ;  the  dwarf  kinds  may  be  set  six  inches  or  less.  It  is  not 
best  to  have  Asters  flower  too  early  in  the  season,  and  there  need  be  no 
haste  in  starting  seed  in  the  spring,  for  the  Aster,  like  the  Dahlia,  is 

essentially  a  Fall  flower,  and  the  flowers  are  always  the  largest  and  most  "Jt'fflKjG*-  Jil'W.  \  •'*"• 
perfect  and  enduring  in  the  showery  weather  and  cool,  dewy  nights  of  •  '^f'jf^^  ' i  ^M$Si i^ 
Autumn.  The  tall  varieties  with  large  flowers  need  a  little  support,  or 
during  storms  of  wind  and  rain  they  are  often  blown  down  and  their 
beauty  destroyed  when  in  full  blossom.  Set  a  stake  in  the  ground  near 
the  main  stem,  so  that  its  top  is  only  about  two-thirds  the  height  of  the  plant.  Then  fasten  the 
main  branches  to  this  stake,  not  in  the  way  too  common,  which  is  merely  to  pass  a  string  around 
the  whole  plant,  stake  and  all,  thus  injuring  both  foliage  and  flowers.  The  proper  way  is  to 
attach  several  strings  to  the  stake,  so  that  they  will  not  slip  down,  then  pass  each  one  around  two 
or  so  of  the  main  branches  in  a  kind  of  loop  or  sling,  so  that  the  plant  will  retain  its  natural 
position,  and  maybe  swayed  by  the  wind  without  receiving  the  least  injury.  We  have  endeavored 
to  show  how  this  is  done  in  the  accompanying  engraving.  Asters  are  so  very  dissimilar  in  habit, 
ranging  from  the  little  dwarf,  scarcely  six  inches  in  height,  to  the  stately  plant  of 
more  than  three  feet,  and  bearing  flowers  almost  as  large  as  a  Pasony,  that  a  few 
words  seem  necessary  to  prevent  persons  purchasing  what  they  do  not  desire. 
The  smallest  of  the  family  is  the  little  Dwarf  Bouquet,  represented  in  the  engrav- 
ing, fig.  9,  which  presents  a  bouquet  of  flowers  about  five  or  six  inches  in  height, 
with  scarcely  a  leaf.  These  are  excellent  for  borders  around  beds.  The  Dwarj 
Pyramidal  Bouquets,  represented  by  engraving,  fig.  10,  make  plants  from  ten  to 
twelve  inches  in  height.  Next  in  height  is  the  New  Schiller,  about  fifteen  inches, 
which  we  represent  on  this  page.  It  will  be  seen  to  be  of  very  peculiar  habit, 
the  leaves  being  almost  entirely  at  the  base  of  the  plant,  and  drooping.  Another  class,  like  the 
Imbrique  Pompon  and  Chrysanthemum-flowered,  grow  from  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  in  height, 
while  the  tallest  class,  represented  by  the  New  Rose,  Perfection,  and  others,  range  from  two  to 
three  feet. 

60 


BALSAM,  (Impatiens,)  Nat.  Orel.  Balsaminacea. 

ALSAMINA,  like  the  Aster,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  popu- 
lar of  our  Annuals.  Like  that  flower,  too,  it  is  an  old  favorite, 
and  so  much  improved  during 
the  last  quarter  of  a  century, 
that  it  scarcely  bears  a  resem- 
blance to  the  old  flower.  We 
give  an  engraving  of  the  Bal- 
sam, which  many  of  our  read- 
ers will  recognize  as  the 
Lady's  Slipper  of  other  days ; 
and  though  they  formerly 
thought  it  handsome,  and 
have  a  right  to  think  so 
now,  if  they  wish,  yet  it 
must  be  acknowledged  there  is  a  great  improvement  in  this  flower,  and  that  the  poor,  single 
blossom  so  prized  because  associated  with  years  and  thoughts  and  friends  of  the  past,  is  far 
inferior  to  the  double,  rose-like  flower  of  to-day.  Our  climate  is  wonderfully  adapted  to  the 
growth  of  the  Balsam.  In  some  parts  of  Europe  it  requires  a  great  deal  of  nursing  to  secure 
good  plants;  almost  hot-house  treatment.  No  flower  pays  better  for  a 
little  extra  care,  in  the  way  of  enriching  the  soil — a  little  guano  water  and 
the  like.  We  have  grown  side  branches  of  Balsam  two  inches  in  diam- 
eter at  the  base,  two  feet  in  length,  and  perfect  wreaths  of  flowers.  Sow 
in  a  frame  or  in  a  sheltered  bed  in  the  garden  in  the  spring,  as  soon  as  the 
\veather  is  rather  warm. 
Transplant  when  the  second 
leaves  have  made  a  little 
growth.  Set  the  plants  ten  or 
twelve  inches  apart,  and  when 
the  side  branches  appear, 
pinch  off  all  but  three  or  four, 
^"  and  pinch  out  the  center  shoot. 
Those  left  will  then  grow  strong,  and  the  flowers  will  not  be  concealed  by  the  foliage,  as  is  the 
cose  when  the  plant  is  left  unpruned.  A  very  good  way  is  to  keep  all  the  side  shoots  pinched  off, 
leaving  only  the  leading  one.  This  will  grow  two  or  three  feet  in  height,  and  be  a  perfect  wreath 
of  flowers.  Treated  in  this  way,  they  will  bear  close  planting.  Some  people,  however,  prefer  the 
Balsam  unpruned,  and  we  advise  to  try  several  plans.  It  is  quite  interesting  to  watch  the  results 
of  snch  treatment.  The  engravings  show  the  effect 
of  pruning.  Fig.  1,  Dwarf  Balsam  of  natural  growth  ; 
fig.  5,  same  pruned  to  five  branches ;  fig.  2,  common 
Balsam  of  natural  growth ;  fig.  3,  plant  pruned  to  one 
branch ;  fig.  4,  pruned 
to  three  branches ;  fig. 
6,  flower  of  natural 
size.  The  Extra 
Dwarf  Balsams  grow 
only  about  six  inches 
in  height,  while  the 
tall  varieties  often 
reach  nearly  three 
feet  in  a  rich  soil. 
With  the  choicest 
seed  the  Balsam  oc- 
casionally insists  on  giving  only  semi-double  flowers, 

and  no  one  can  tell  why.     Many  think  that  old  seed  produces  flowers  more  double  than  new. 
•  62 


OLD  BALSAM. 


BALSAM  IMPROVED. 


BARTONIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Loasacca. 

Bartonia  aurea  is  a  very  showy,  half-hardy  annual.  It  is  a  native  of  California,  and  was 
found  there  nearly  forty  years  ago  by  the  unfortunate  DOUGLAS,  who  discovered  so  many 
ornamental  annuals  in  California  and  South  America,  which  he 
introduced  to  European  florists,  and  who  finally  sacrificed  his  life  to 
his  botanical  zeal  by  falling  into  a  pit  placed 
to  entrap  wild  cattle,  on  the  Sandwich  Is- 
lands, while  on  a  botanical  excursion.  The 
leaves  are  somewhat  thistle-like  in  appear- 
ance, gray  and  downy.  The  flowers  are 
double  the  size  shown  in  the  engraving,  of  a 
very  bright,  metallic  yellow,  and  exceed- 
ingly brilliant  in  the  sunshine.  It  likes 
considerable  moisture,  and  in  a  drouth  the 
young  plants  sometimes  suffer.  We  saw  it  flowering  beautifully,  in  June,  on  the  mountain  sides 
in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Yosemite  Valley,  but  not  in  large  quantities.  As  it  does  not  bear  trans- 
planting very  well,  we  sow  seed  in  the  garden  early,  and  in  that  way  get  good  plants  and  flowers. 

BRACHYCOME,    Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 

The  Brachycome  iberidifolia  is  a  daisy-like  flower,  found  on  the  banks  of  the  Swan  River,  in 
Australia,  and  sometimes  called  Swan  River  Daisy.  It  is  an  elegant  little  plant,  growing  only 
about  eight  inches  in  height,  of  a  branching,  compact  habit, 
with  deeply  cut  foliage  and  abundance  of  flowers,  of  the  size 
and  appearance  of  which  our  engraving  will  give  a  good  idea, 
and  bearing  more  resemblance  to  the  Cin- 
eraria, perhaps,  than  any  other  flower. 
Colors  blue  and  white,  with  a  dark  eye. 
For  a  bed  or  mass,  set  the  plants  six  or 
eight  inches  apart.  Neither  this  simple 
description  nor  the  engraving  will  give 
the  reader  a  sufficiently  favorable  idea  of 
the  pretty,  daisy-like  flowers,  and  the 
compact,  rounded  form  of  this  beautiful  plant,  which  is  deserving  of  far  more  attention  than  it 
has  ever  received. 

BROWALLIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Scropkulariacea. 

The  Browallias  are  excellent,  free  flowering,  half-hardy  annuals,  mostly  from  South  America. 
The  flowers  are  beautiful  and  delicate,  the  engraving  showing  the  natural  size.     Seeds  grow  quite 
freely  and  the  plant  gives  abundance  of  bloom.     Plants  about  eighteen 
inches  in  height,  and  should  be  set  a  foot  apart     This,  though  not  a 
showy,  is  a  very  interesting  class  of  flowers  ;  in  fact,  they  belong,  like  the 
Clarkia,  the  Nemophila,  and  Whitlavia,  to  a  modest, 
and  therefore  unappreciated,  family,  which  we  like  much 
better  than  we  usually  say,  because  they  are  not  showy 
enough  to  please  everybody,  and  we  do  not  like  to  be 
the    cause   of   disappointment,   even    to    unreasonable 
people.      For  several  years  past,  however,  the  taste  for 
the  culture  of  the  more  delicate  flowers  has  been  rapidly 
improving,  and  instead  of  being  scolded  for  over-praising 
some  little  favorite,  it  will  be  recollected,  many  readers 
have  complained  because  we  said  so  little  when  so  much 
With  this  progress  we  are  well  pleased. 


could  be  spoken  with  truth. 


CACALTA,  Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 

ACALIAS  are  pretty  half-hardy  annuals,  with  small,  tassel-like 
flowers,  and  from  the  form  of  the  flower,  often  called  Flora's  Paint 
Brush.  The  flowers  are  borne  in  clusters  on  slender  stalks,  about 
a  foot  or  so  in  length.  The  appearance  of 
i  the  Cacalia  in  the  bed  is  quite  satisfactory, 
and  for  cutting  these  little  flowers  are  always 
in  request.  There  are  two  varieties,  scarlet 
and  orange.  Sow  seed  under  glass,  and  set 
the  plants  in  the  flowering  bed  about  six 
inches  apart.  This  little  flower  is  a  native  of 
the  East  Indies.  The  principal  merit  of  the 
flower  is  that  it  continues  in  bloom  from  early 
summer  until  late  autumn,  throwing  up  its  tall 
branching  and  tasseled  flower  stems,  and  furnishing  flowers  for  cutting  every  day  for  several  months. 

CALANDRINLA,  Nat.  Orel.  Portulacacetz. 

A  very  pretty  genus  of  plants,  with  somewhat  succulent  stems  and  fleshy  leaves,  as  might  be 
expected,  being  of  the  Purslane  family.       The  plants  are  more  or  less  prostrate,  some  varieties  as 
much  so  as  the  Portulaca.     The  best  of  the  species  are  natives  of  South 
America.     They  endure  heat  and  drouth  like  the  Por- 
tulaca, and  are  peculiarity  well   adapted  for  rock 
work,  mounds,  &c.       Flowers  large,  abundant  and 
continuous   through  the  summer.       The  engraving 
shows  the  flower  about  one-third  the  natural  size  of 
most  of  the  varieties.      It  is  best  to  treat  the  Calan- 
drinia  as  a  half-hardy  annual,  and  sow  under  glass, 
but  very  good  success  may  be  had  by  sowing  in  the  open  ground,  especially  in  a  light,  sandy  soil. 

CALENDULA,  (Marigold,)  Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 

The  Calendula  is  the  old  and  well  known  Marigold  family  which  every  one  knows,  but  may 
not  recognize  by  this  name.     The  name  was  given  because  some  of  the  species  were  supposed  to 

be  in  flower  every  month  of  the  Calendar. 
The  C.  officinalis  is  the  old  Pot  Marigold, 
which,  according  to  the  old  belief,  possess- 
ed wonderful  medical  virtues,  and  as  a  pot 
herb  had  great  merit,  and  which  now 
some  Englishmen  think  gives  a  delicious 
flavor  to  a  leg  of  mutton.  The  English 
name  is  a  corruption  of  Mary's  gold,  on 

account  of  the  value  of  this  plant  as  a  pot  herb  to  English  cottagers'  wives. 
The  single  varieties  are  not  much  cultivated,  but  the  double  are  still  popular. 

CALLIOPSIS,  Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 

The  genus  Calliopsis  embraces  a  very  useful  and  brilliant  class  of  hardy  annuals.  The  plants 
are  tall,  usually  two  or  three  feet  in  height,  and  though  of  slender  habit  are  of  vigorous  growth. 
The  flowers  embrace  every  shade  of  yellow,  orange  and  rich,  reddish 
brown,  verging  to  red  or  crimson.  Some 
varieties  are  finely  marked.  The  flowers 
on  slender  foot  stalks,  and  very  abundant, 
so  that  when  sown  in  groups,  which  is  the 
best  method,  the  effect  of  the  waving 
flowers  is  very  fine.  Our  engraving  shows 
one  of  the  varieties  with  a  beautiful  eye, 


and  the  real  English  of  the  Greek  word  Calliopsis  is  «  Beautiful  Eye." 
the  open  ground  or  under  glass. 

64 


Seed  may  be  sown  in 


CALLIRHOE,  Nat.  Orel.  Malvacea. 

A  species  of  Mallow-like  plants,  natives  of  America,  with  large,  purplish  flowers,  about  twice 
the  size  of  the  engraving,  and  showing  a  white  center,  which  gives  the  flower  a  very  beautiful 
appearance.  They  are  five-petaled,  and  about  two  inches  across. 
The  filaments  of  the  stamens  are  united  in  a  columnar  tube,  which 
bears  a  tuft  of  many  stamens  at  the  end. 
Height  of  plant  about  two  feet,  though 
there  is  a  dwarf  variety,  growing  only  about 
one-half  this  height.  Seeds  under  favor- 
able circumstances  will  grow  freely  in  the 
open  ground.  Thin  out  the  plants  so  that 
they  will  be  about  a  foot  apart.  The  Cal- 
lirhoe  commences  to  flower  when  only  about  six  inches  high,  and  gives  abundance  of  its  pretty 
flowers  through  the  summer  until  frost. 

CAMPANULA,  Nat.  Ord.  Campanulacea. 

The  Campanulas  are  a  large  genus,  embracing  a  great  many  beautiful  and  popular  Perennials, 
like  the  Campanula  Medium,  or  Canterbury  Bell,  which  we  shall  describe  in  the  department 
devoted  to  flowers  that  bloom  the  second  season.  In  the  Campanulacece 
there  are  supposed  to  be  over  two  hundred  species,  and  natives  of 
the  colder  portions  of  America,  Asia  and  Europe,  and  scarcely  any 
found  in  warm  countries.  The  famed  Blue  Bells  of  Scotland,  (the 
Hare-bell  of  America,)  is  the  best  known  species.  There  are  quite  a| 
number  of  annuals  of  great  value  for  forming  masses,  as 
they  are  neat  in  habit,  hardy,  and  free  bloomers.  Seed 
may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  or  under  glass.  In  the 
flowering  bed  plants  should  be  five  or  six  inches  apart, 
so  as  to  form  a  mass  and  entirely  cover  the  soil.  The 
flowers  of  the  annual  varieties  are  small  compared  with 
the  perennials,  and  the  prevailing  colors  white,  blue  and 
rose.  They  are  simple,  neat  little  flowers,  not  very  desirable  as  single  plants,  but  quite  effective 
in  masses. 

CANNA,  Nat.  Ord.  Marantacea:. 

The  Cannas  are  stately  plants,  with  broad  green,  highly  ornamental  leaves,  giving  to  our 
Northern  gardens  a  tropical  appearance,  exceedingly  pleasant.  Although 
the  Canna  looks  well  when  grown  singly,  yet  we  must  look  for  the  most 
desirable  effects  when  grown  in  clumps  or  groups,  or  when  to  the  Canna  is 
devoted  a  whole  bed  on  some  portion  of  the  lawn.  There  are  several  varie- 
ties, the  leaves  of  some  being  entirely  green,  while  in  others  the  leaf-stem, 
midrib  and  veins  are  red.  Some  kinds  also  grow  three  or  four  feet  in 
height,  while  others  are  of  a  somewhat  dwarfish  habit,  being  only  about  two 
feet.  The  Canna  is  also  very  useful,  when  grown  in  pots,  for  indoor  deco- 
rations, such  as  halls,  porches,  etc.  The  Canna  makes  good  large  plants 
from  seed  the  first  season  after  planting  only  under  favorable  circumstances, 
so  that  those  who  depend  upon  seeds  for  their  show  of  plants  for  the  sum- 
mer, should  encourage  growth  in  every  possible  way,  therefore,  soak  the 
seeds  m  hot  water  for  several  hours  before  planting.  In  a  cold  climate,  seed 
must  be  sown  under  glass,  and  indeed  it  is  well  to  grow  the  plants  in  pots, 
so  as  to  get  them  of  good  size  before  the  weather  is  warm  enough  to  turn  them  into  the  garden, 
for  unless  the  plants  are  strong  when  set  out  they  will  not  produce  much  effect  the  first  year. 
Many  of  my  customers  on  the  rich  soils  of  the  Southwest  succeed  admirably  with  the  Cannas, 
not  only  making  a  fine  show  the  first  summer,  but  plants  of  enormous  size.  In  ordinary  places, 
where  there  is  no  convenience  for  hot-bed,  potting,  &c.,  it  is  well  to  purchase  roots,  which  can  be 
obtained  of  good  size  in  the  spring.  In  the  autumn  take  up  the  roots  and  keep  them  in  the 
cellar  in  sand,  to  be  planted  again  the  following  spring.  The  flowers  are  pretty  but  not  showy. 

65 


CANDYTUFT,  (Iberis,)  Nat.  Ord.  Crudfera. 

The  Candytuft  is  an  old,  popular,  hardy  annual  that  every  one  at  all  conversant  with  flower- 
is  acquainted  with.  It  is  the  same  flower  now  that  it  was  two  hundred  years  ago,  the  improve- 
ment in  its  character  being  very 
slight.  Although  the  Candytuft 
grows  so  freely  that  it  is  not  con- 
sidered necessary  to  give  it  any  par- 
ticular care,  yet  it  appreciates  a 
little  extra  culture,  as  those  who 
take  a  plant  or  two  for  extra  good 
treatment  will  be  fully  aware  after 
the  trial.  A  little  manure  water  occasionally,  with  a  thorough  softening  of  the  soil  around  the 
the  plant,  and  a  thinning  out  of  the  too  numerous  clusters  of  buds,  will  produce  heads  of  flowers 
three  inches  across.  The  Candytufts  are  a  treasure  in  the  hands  of 
the  florist  for  bouquet  making,  especially  the  white  varieties,  because 
the  flowers  are  so  small  and  the  white  so  pure,  and  because  by 
sowing  a  little  patch  occasionally  flowers  can  be 
had  at  any  time,  winter  or  summer.  Several 
times,  crimson,  carmine  and  other  bright  color- 
ed Candytufts  have  been  announced  among  the 
Novelties,  but  until  this  summer  we  never  found 
any  better  than  the  old  purple,  or  much  differ- 
ent. We  now  have  a  good  bright  rose,  which 
is  a  most  valuable  acquisition.  Seed  should  be 
sown  where  the  plants  are  to  bloom,  either  in  the 
fall  or  as  early  in  the  spring  as  possible.  The 
general  form  of  the  Crimson,  Purple,  Lilac  etc.,  is  shown  in  the  engraving ;  also  the  Rocket, 
which  bears  its  flowers  in  spikes. 

CASSIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Legttminosce. 

Cassia  chamaecrista  is  a  very  good  annual  indeed,  with  pretty,  light  green  foliage,  like  the 

Sensitive  Plant,  and  plenty  of  bright,  golden  yellow  flowers. 
It  is  of  dwarf,  compact  habit,  about  eighteen  inches  in 
height,  has  the  appearance  of  a  little  hard-wooded  shrub, 
and  makes  a  very  pretty  border.  It  is  a  native  of  the  West 
and  Southwest,  and  entirely  worthy  of  culture.  Persons 
who  see  this  flower  first  in  its  wild  state  are  so  delighted 
with  it,  and  so  anxious  to  have  others  share  their  pleasure, 
that  samples  of  both  flowers  and  seeds  are  sent  us  by  the 
hundred.  We  judge  from  the  demand  made  upon  us  for 
seeds  by  European  seedsmen  and  florists,  that  this  native 
American  is  attracting  considerable  attention.  Sow  under  glass  or  open  ;  set  plants  a  foot  apart. 


CATCHFLY,  (Silene,)  Nat.  Ord.  Caryophyllacea:. 

There  are  a  great  many  Silenes  with  small  flowers  and  not  very  great  beauty. 
of  all  is  S.  Armeria,  and  generally 
known  as  Lobel's  Catchfly,  named 
after  LOBEL  a  distinguished  old  botan- 
ist of  Flanders.  Nearly  all  the  species 
of  this  genus  have  a  viscid  moisture 
on  their  stalks,  in  which  it  is  said  flies 
are  sometimes  entrapped,  therefore  the 
Catchfly  part  of  the  name.  The  Silene 
Armeria  is  a  free  flowering  hardy 
annual,  growing  over  a  foot  in  height, 
with  small  flowers,  red,  white  or  rose.  Set  plants  six  inches  apart  so  as  to  form  a  clump. 

66 


The  prettiest 


CELOSIA,  Xat.  Orel.  Amarantacea. 

The  Celosias  are  interesting  and  singular  annuals,  and  when  well  grown,  from  seed  of  good 
quality,  never  fail  to  please  the  grower  and  attract  the  attention  of  his  friends.       In  Europe  they 

are  grown  in  pots  for  floral  exhibitions  and  also  for  table  decorations,  but 

in  most  parts  of  America  they  grcrv  so  freely  in  the  open  ground  that  this 

treatment  is  not  necessary  to  form  most  superb 

plants,  though  for  exhibition  purposes  extra 

good  plants  in  pots  would  be  very  convenient 

and  useful.     There  are  two  desirable  forms  of 

the  Celosia,  the  Cockscomb  and  the  Feathery. 

the  former  being  the    most  curious    and    far 

the    most    popular.       When    true,    the    latter 

forms  a  feathery  head  that  is  very  pretty,  but  it 

is  not  always  reliable,  and  we  have  discarded 

all  but  one  or  two  varieties  of  this  form  that 

usually  come  good  and  true.       Of  the  old- 
fashioned    Cockscomb,     represented    by    the 

small  engraving  in  the  center,  seed  can  now  be 

obtained  of  excellent  quality,  that  with  good  culture,  in  a  rich  soil,  will 

give  heads  from  six  inches  to  a  foot  across,  and  some  who  read  this  article 

will,  no  doubt,  be  ready  to  say  they  have  grown  them  nearly  twice  this 
size,  for  in  the  rich  soils  of  the  West,  and  with  comparatively  good  culture,  they  make  combs  of 
wondeiful  size.  Four  years  ago  we  obtained  a  new  Cockscomb  from  Japan,  which  we  named  the 
I'ick' s  Japan  Cockscomb,  and  which  far  excels  even*  other  variety  in  the  brilliance  of  its  color  and 
the  beauty  of  its  seed  for  sale.  It 

comb.     We   kept   it  *  j^^S^^fefew  »%»  not  on^'  sustains  i*5 

on  our  own  grounds  v,  J&lKiSSfipiw  JM*X  original      character, 

on     trial      for     two  ^jjflaT^  -dnHK  but  seems  to  like  *e 

years,    and    was    so  <?S$ia  <*&*i*m?'^  • -v^asSHll^'        Amercan        climate 


charmed  with  its 
great  beauty  as  well 
as  its  distinctness  of 
character  that  in 
187:-!  we  offered  the 


and  soil.  Last  sum- 
mer it  was  more  bril- 
liant than  ever  be- 
fore. The  usual  form 
of  the  plant  is  shown 


in  the  first  engraving  at  the  left,  while  the  cut  on  the  right  exhibits  the  usual  form  of  the  combs, 
with  a  bright  scarlet  edging  ruffled  like  the  most  delicate  lace.  In  many  specimens  the  comb  is 
so  nicely  cut  as  to  resemble  the  finest  coral  both  in  form  and  color,  and  this  appearance  we  have 
endeavored  to  show  in  the  lower  engraving  at  the  right.  Some  of  the  side  branches  also  assume 

this  square  instead  of  the  comb  form.      Oc- 
casionally a  plant  has  the  form  of  the  lower 

engraving  at  the  left,  being  a  mass  of  combs 

with  scarcely  a  leaf.     The  branches  from  the 

roots  to  the  smallest  leaf-veins  are  scarlet  or 

crimson.     It  flowers  earlier  than  the  old  vari- 
eties and  keeps  in  bloom  until  frost.      The 

seed  germinates  readily  in  the  hot-bed,  and 

will  bear  plenty  of  bottom  heat,  but  needs 

abundance  of  air.     The  form  of  the  feathered 

Celosia  is  shown  by  a  drawing  of  a  branch, 

found  at  the  right  of  the  central  engraving- 

A  spike  of  Celosia  spicata  rosea  may  also  be 

seen  at  the  left.  These  spikes  are  pinkish,  three  or  four  inches  long, 
and  nearly  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  may  be  cut  and  dried  like  an  Everlasting,  revaluing  both  form 
and  color  nearly  as  well  as  the  Helichrysums.  This  flower  is  known  in  some  locations  as  the 
Lady's  Finger. 

67 


CENTAUREA,  Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 

The  Centaureas  are  a  very  large  family,  and  some  of  the  members  bring  no  very  great 
credit  to  the  household,  many  English  fanners  think  when  they  see  the  Blue  Bottles  among  the 
Wheat,  and  the  Knapweed  in  the  pastures.  It  is,  of  course,  a  little 
flattering  to  our  national  pride  to  be  able  to  say  that  the  handsomest 
and  best  of  the  tribe  are  Americans.  Some  English  Botanists,  we 
know,  think  that  one  bad  fellow  emigrated  from 
America,  naturalized,  and  took  up  his  abode  in 
England,  but  we  have  never  acknowledged  the 
truth  of  this  charge,  and  do  not  design  to  do  so 
without  better  proof.  The  Centaureas  are  per- 
fectly hardy,  and  some  of  the  best  varieties  are 
really  fine.  C.  Americana,  is  sometimes  called 
Basket  Flower,  because  the  calyx  has  the  appear- 
ance of  a  basket  filled  and  overflowing  with  the 
hair-like  petals.  We  have  endeavored  to  show  the  appearance  of  this  flower  in  the  engraving. 

CENTRANTHUS,  Nat.  Ord.  Valerianace<z. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  perennial  Centranthus,  differing  not  very  materially  from  the 
Valerians,  that  is,  for  the  purposes  of  the  florist.  C.  macrosiphon  is  a  very  pretty  annual  specie>, 
for  which  we  are  indebted  to  Spain.  It  has  a  light  green,  hoi- 
low,  almost  transparent  stem,  delicate  branches,  with  light, 
glaucous  leaves.  The  flowers  are  small  and  borne  in  clusters, 
as  shown  in  the  engraving,  and  for  a  pretty 
bed  or  mass  of  delicate  flowers,  or  for  a  ^4J^^ 
little  reserve  for  cutting,  we  may  search  a 
long  time  before  we  find  anything  to  sur- 
pass the  little"  Centranthus.  The  word 
macrosiphon  means  long-tubed,  and  as  will 
be  seen  by  the  engraving,  these  flowers 
have  long,  slender  tubes.  We  have  had 
no  difficulty  in  getting  a  good  growth  from  the  seed,  either  in  the  open  ground  or  under  glass. 

CHAM^EPEUCE,    Nat.  Ord.  Composite:. 

The  Chamsepeuce  is  a  very  singular  and  rather  elegant  Thistle-like  plant,  with  the  prettiest 
variegated  leaves  and  the  sharpest  spines  imaginable.  It  is  perennial, 
living  several  years,  but  not  blooming  until  the  second  year,  though  this 
is  of  very  little  consequence,  as  the  beauty  is  in  the  foliage  and  not  the 
flowers.  It  is  perfectly  hardy  in  this  section,  the  self-sown  seed  having 
produced  plants  on  our  grounds  for  several  years.  It  is  much  used  in 
some  parts  of  the  world  for  decorative  purposes,  a  good  plant  in  a  pot, 
looking  quite  as  well  as  a  young  Century  Plant  or  any  thing  of  this  character. 

CLEOME,  Nat.  Ord.  Capparidacece. 
The  Cleomes  are  very  good  half-hardy  annuals,  obtained,  we  believe,  first  from  South  America, 


and  now  pretty  generally  cultivated, 
latterly  has  been  classed  with  the 
half-hardy  annuals  in  England,  and 
in  America  it  does  exceedingly  well, 
flourishing  in  our  hottest,  driest 
seasons.  The  Cleomes  have  very 
singular  flowers,  as  will  be  seen  by 
the  engraving,  the  stamens  looking 
like  spider's  legs.  The  Cleome  is  a 
plant  well  worthy  of  culture. 
Growth  about  eighteen  inches,  and 
plants  should  be  set  about  a  foot  apart. 


At  first  it  was  thought  to  be  a  green-house  annual,  but 


Start  the  seed  under  glass,  or  in 
68 


a  warm  sandy  soil. 


CLARKIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Onagracea. 
When  once  in  the  County  of  Essex,  in  England,  wandering  about  in  search  of  flowers  and 

their   intelligent  cultivators,  we  neared  an   old-fashioned  village,  called  St.   Osyth,   and  in  it» 

neighborhood  we  saw  immense 
fields  ablaze  with  bright  colors, 
acres  each  of  pink,  red,  white, 
purple,  lilac,  and  which  a  closer 
view  proved  to  be  masses  of 
Clarkia,  being  grown  for  the 
seed.  Wherever  a  mass  of  bright 
colors  is  desired,  the  Clarkia  is 
the  most  effective  annual  in  the 
hands  of  the  English  florist.  It 

suffers   with  us  in  hot  dry  weather.     Seed  sown   in  auiumn  will  give  good  early  spring  flowers. 

COLLINSIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Scrophulariaceez. 
The  Collinsia  is  a  very  pretty,  free  blooming,  hardy  annual,  that  we  always  liked,  but  never  so 

well  as  since  we  saw  it  growing  wild  in  California,  and  which 

we  mistook  when  at  a  distance  for  some  new  species  of  Lupin. 

The       marbled,     or      many-colored, 

flowers   are  in  whorls   of  five  or  six 

blossoms,  and  three  or  more  of  these 

whorls  on  each  flower  stem.        The 

upper    lip  of  the    flower  is  white  or 

pale   lilac,  and   the   lower   one   dark 

purple.      About   eighteen    inches   in 

height.     We  have  had  very  good  suc- 
cess  with  fall  planted  seeds  in  a  dry  soil,  but  would  hardly  like  to  advise  this  plan  generally. 

CONVOLVULUS,  Nat.  Ord.  Convolvulacea. 

Every  one  knows  the  Convolvulus  major,  the  old  and  loved  Morning  Glory,  which  will  be 
found  described  among  the  Climbing  Plants,  but  all  are  not  conversant 
with  the  Dwarf  Convolvulus,  C.  minor.       It  is  a  dwarfish  plant,  of  a 
trailing  habit,  each  plant  covering  a  circle  per- 
haps two   feet   in    diameter,   or   more.       The 
flowers  are  about  two-thirds  the  size  of  those  of 
the  Morning  Glory,  and  a  bed  of  the  Dwarf 
Convolvulus  forms  beautiful  mass;    and  were 
it  not  that  the  flowers  are  closed  during  the  latter 
part  of  the  day,  the  same  as  Convolvulus  major, 
few  plants  would  give  more  satisfaction.       The  engraving  shows  the  flower  one-half  natural  size. 

CREPIS,  Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 

The  Crepis  are  pretty  plants  that  almost  every  one  would  like  in  a  large  collection,  but  which 
we  would  not  recommend  to  those  who  cultivate  but  few 
flowers,  except  once  for  trial  or  acquaintance.     There  is  great 
pleasure  in  forming   a   personal    acquaintance  with    strange 
flowers   by   culture,  just   as   much    as   in 
traveling   among   new    scenes    in   strange 
lands;   at  least,  so  we  think.       There  are 
several  varieties  of  the  Crepis,  yellow,  pur- 
ple,   pink    and    white,  all    hardy  annuals, 
about  one  foot  in  height,  and  bearing  deli- 
cate, pretty  flowers.     The  engraving  shows 
the  full  size  of  the  flower.        Plants  should 
be  about  eight  or  ten  inches  apart.        Seed 
will  germinate  if  sown  in  the  open  ground,  but  we  generally  put  a  pinch  or  two  in  the  hot-bed. 

09 


DATURA,  Nat.  Ord.  Solanacea. 

ATURA  is  a  large,  strong-growing  plant,  with  trumpet-shaped 
flowers,  the  best  varieties  bearing  blooms  six  inches  in  length, 
mostly  white,  and  sometimes  tinted  with  a 
delicate  blue.  No  one  ever  flowered  a 
good  Datura  for  the  first  time  who  was  not 
a  good  deal  more  than  pleased,  and  no  one 
ever  had  a  blooming  plant  in  his  garden 
that  did  not  receive  a  large  share  of  the  at- 
tention and  admiration  of  visitors.  This  is 
due  very  largely  to  its  great  size  and  purity 
of  color.  There  are  several  double  varie- 
ties, in  fact,  the  Datura  seems  to  double  in 
almost  every  style,  but  we  prefer  the  single 
kind.  The  roots  of  one  variety,  Wrightii, 
will  usually  endure  the  winter  and  flower  for  several  seasons,  but  any  of  the  roots  can  be  pre- 
served in  a  cellar,  like  Dahlia  roots.  Plants  two  feet  in  height;  set  plants  two  feet  apart. 

DELPHINIUM,  Nat.  Ord.  Ranunculacea. 

The  Delphiniums  are  beautiful,  free  blooming,  popular  plants,  and  generally  known  as  Lark- 
spurs on  account  of  the  peculiar  formation  of  the  flower,  which  has  a  fancied  resemblance  to  the 
spur  of  that  favorite  European  song-bird,  the  Lark.  There  are  several  very  desir- 
able Perennials,  which  will  be  found  described  in  the  proper  department,  and  also 
quite  a  number  of  annuals,  all  hardy  and  good.  The  Larkspurs  prefer  a  cool  soil 
and  season,  plenty  of  moisture,  and  a  little  shade 
will  do  no  injury.  Sow  the  seeds  in  the  autumn, 
or  very  early  in  the  spring,  so  as  to  have  the 
benefit  of  cool,  early,  showery  weather.  Among 
the  annuals,  the  Rocket  varieties  are  perhaps  the 
favorites.  They  send 
up  a  tall  spike,  as  shown 
m  the  engraving,  which 
gives  the  name,  and  a 
bed  of  these  varieties  is 
truly  gorgeous.  The 
appearance  of  a  good 
double  flower  is  shown 
in  the  small  engraving. 
There  are  several  varie- 
ties that  make  rather  large,  branching  plants,  and  as  these  have  abundance  of  flowers  on  strong 
stems,  are  especially  desirable  for  cutting.  A  somewhat  new  variety,  called  Candelabrum,  is 
shown  in  the  engraving.  The  branching  varieties  grow  about  two  feet  in  height,  and  should  be 
planted  about  eighteen  inches  apart.  The  Rockets  should  be  set  in  rows  five  or  six  inches  apart. 
Sow  the  seed  where  the  plants  are  to  bloom.  Larkspurs  continue  in  flower  only  a  short  time. 

DIDISCUS,   Nat.  Ord.  Apiacea:. 

The  Didiscus  coeruleus  is  a  truly  handsome  Australian  plant,  about  two  feet  in  height,  with 
numerous  umbels  of  sky  blue  flowers.  The  appearance  of  both  plant  and  flower  we  have  endeav- 
ored to  show  in  the  engraving.  While, 
like  others  we  have  before  described,  we 
do  not  think  this  flower  will  ever  become 
generally  cultivated,  yet  it  is  too  pretty  to 
be  omitted  from  our  list.  If  seeds  are 
sown  and  plants  well  forwarded  in  the 
hot-bed,  bloom  may  expected  about  the 
first  of  July ;  but  if  in  the  open  ground,  not 
until  the  latter  part  of  the  month.  It  is  better,  if  possible,  to  sow  under  glass. 

70 


DIANTHUS,  Xat.  Ord.  Caryophyllaceu:. 

A  splendid  genus  of  the  most  beautiful  perennials  grown.       The  Sweet  William,  (Dianthus 
barbatus,}  the  Carnation  and   Picotee,   (D.  caryophylltts,}  and  the  Garden   Pink,  (D.  hortensis,} 

belong  to  this  genus ;  but,  as  they  do  not  flower 
until  the  second  season,  will  be  described  in  the 
proper  place.  The  species  known  as  D.  Chi- 
nensis,  embracing  the  old  Chinese  Pink,  very 
much  improved  of  late  years,  and  the  new  and 
superb  varieties  from  Japan,  known  as  D.  Hed- 
dewigii  and  laciniatus,  are  among  the  most 
brilliant  and  useful  of  our  garden  flowers.  The 
last  two  run  into  many  varieties,  the  result  of 
hybridization,  with  flowers  of  monstrous  size 
and  varied  and  rich  in  coloring.  Plants  of  the 
tall  growing  sorts  are  from  twelve  to  fifteen 
inches  in  height,  while  the  dwarf  kinds  make 
handsome  low,  compact  bushes,  excellent  for 
the  garden  and  unsurpassed  for  pots.  Seed 
may  be  sown  in  the  spring,  under  glass  or  in  a 
seed-bed.  Easily  transplanted.  Set  the  plants 
from  six  to  twelve  inches  apart,  according  to 
varieties — the  dwarf  sorts  only  about  six  inches. 
The  Dianthus  flowers  freely  during  the  whole 
summer.  If  the  flowering  is  checked  by  prun- 
ing, so  as  to  keep  the  plants  vigorous,  they  will 
usu  ally  survive  the  winter  well,  and  make  most 
beautiful  plants  the  second  season,  even  much 
better  than  the  first.  If  allowed  to  flower  too  freely,  they  are  sometimes  so  weakened  as  to  be 
unable  to  bear  the  winter  without  suffering  great  injury,  if  they  escape  destruction.  Seed  sown 
late  in  the  spring  will  produce  strong  young  plants  for  the  second  season's  flowering.  The  Dwarf 
sorts  especially,  and,  in  fact,  all  kinds,  make  very  good  house  plants,  if  not  kept  too  warm.  In 
this  family  there  has  been  very  great  improvement  in  the  past  few  years,  so  that  now  flowers  grown 
from  seeds  of  the  common  China  Pink  are  far  superior  to  anything  known  among  the  China  or 
Japan  Pinks  ten  years  ago.  The  engraving  shows  a  flower  of  a  good  double  Pink,  of  natural  size. 
The  single  varieties  are  so  brilliant  in  color  that  they  are  prized  by  some  persons  even  more  than 
the  double  sorts,  and  for  beautiful  markings  and  rich  coloring  few  flowers  equal  the  single  Japan 
and  China  Pinks. 

DOUBLE    DAISY,  (Bellis,)  Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 

Every  one  knows  and  loves  the  Daisy.  It  has  been  the  favorite  flower  of  the  poets  from 
CHAUCER  down.  Even  the  Daisy  of  the  field  is  beautiful  and  poetical.  The  cultivated  double 
kinds  are  so  good,  and  their  merits  so  well  known,  that  they  need  neither 
description  nor  praise  at  our  hands.  Unfortun- 
ately our  climate  is  too  dry  for  the  perfection  of 
the  Daisy,  and  it  is  only  in  early  spring  or  in 
favored  locations,  or  where  water  is  freely  used, 
that  we  can  see  the  Daisy  in  its  prime.  Plenty 
of  water  and  shade,  however,  will  do  the  work. 
Plants  of  good  sorts  can  usually  be  procured,  but 
seed  sown  either  in  the  hot-bed  or  open  ground 
will  produce  plants  that  will  give  a  few  late  flowers  the  first  season.  A  portion  coming  from  seed 
will  always  be  single,  and  these  can  be  removed.  The  plants  should  be  about  six  inches  apart 
when  set,  so  that  when  in  perfection  they  will  about  cover  the  ground.  For  a  single  line  or 
border,  the  Daisy  is  unsurpassed.  Plants  do  not  always  bear  a  Northern  winter  without  injury, 
and  sometimes  suffer  in  dry  seasons.  A  cold-frame  in  winter,  and  a  cool  North  border  in  sum- 
mer, will  insure  success. 

71 


ERYSIMUM,  Nat.  Ord.  Crudfera. 

RYSIMUMS  are  very  good  and  perfectly  hardy  annuals,  of  the  Mus- 
tard family.  They  form  fair  looking 
plants  about  eighteen  inches  in  height, 
with  clusters  of  yellow  or  orange,  fra- 
grant flowers,  and  plant  and  blos- 
som resemble  the  single  Wallflower, 
though  both  flowers  and  clusters  are 
smaller.  Late  in  the  season  the  Erys- 
imum  is  very  desirable  for  cutting,  and 
although  not  a  flower  that  we  would  se- 
lect as  one  of  the  best  six,  yet  it  is  one 
we  would  not  like  to  dispense  with  and 
also  one  that  improves  with  acquaint- 
ance. Some  time  when  you  need  flowers  for  loose  bouquets  or  decorations,  try  the  Erysimum. 

ESCHSCHOLTZIA,  (California  Poppy,)  Nat.  Ord.  Papaveracea:. 
The  Eschscholtzias  are  the  most  showy  of  our  yellow- flowered  annuals.     This  we  well  knew, 
but  the  exceeding  brilliance  of  these  flowers  when  grown  in  masses  we  did  not  realize  until  we  saw 
thousands  of  acres  in  their  native  home,  California,  shining  like 
seas  of  molten  gold.      The  plant  is 
of  low  growth,  the  tallest  varieties 
being  less   than   a  foot   in  height, 
while  the  dwarf  kinds  are  not  more 
than  six   inches.      The  leaves  are 
finely  cut,   and  glaucous  green   in 
color.     There  are  now  several  dis- 
tinct varieties,  white,  yellow,  orange,  &c..  but  the  old  yellow,  known  as  the  California  Poppy,  is 
quite  equal  to  the  best.     Seed  may  be  sown  in  the  garden  where  plants  are  to  flower. 

EUPHORBIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Euphorbiacea : 
The  Euphorbia  marginata  is  a  pretty  annual,  making  a  plant  nearly  two  feet  in  height  and 

having  the  appearance  of  a  shrub  or  miniature  tree.      The  largest  of  the  leaves  are  nearly  two 

inches  in  length,  growing  smaller  as  they  near  the  tops  of  the 
branches.  The  leaves  are  very  pretty  light  green,  surrounded  by 
a  margin  of  clear,  snowy  white,  on  the  large  leaves  merely  a  line, 
becoming  wider  as  the  leaves  get  smaller,  until  the  smallest  are 
nearly  or  quite  pure  white,  as  are  also  the  flower  bracts.  It 
grows  abundantly  west  of  the  Mississippi,  and  is  called  Snow  on 
the  Mountains,  and  we  thought  this  a  very  appropriate  name, 
as  we  noticed  it  growing  upon  the  plains,  within  sight  of 
the  snow-fringed  mountains.  For  a  bed  of  ornamental-leaved 

plants  few  things  we  are  acquainted  with  will  give  more  satisfaction. 

EUTOCA,  Nat.  Ord.  Hydrophyllacea:. 

The  Eutocas  are  another  pretty  class  of  California  annuals,  all  having  blue  flowers,  though  of 
different  shades.  They  are  coarse  growing  plants,  but  the  flowers  of  the  dark  colored  sorts  are 
intensely  blue.  They  do  best  in  a  warm  sandy  soil,  at  least  give  more 
flowers  in  proportion  to  their  foliage  than  if  in  a  rich  strong  soil- 
The  Eutocas  are  very  desirable  for  cutting,  because 
a  flowering  branch  when  placed  in  water  will  keep 
in  bloom  for  many  days.  It  seems  almost  strange 
that  we  are  indebted  to  California  for  so  many  of 
our  nice  annuals.  The  lover  of  flowers,  and  par- 
ticularly if  acquainted  with  annuals,  in  travel- 
ing in  California  finds  it  hard  to  persuade  himself  that  he  is  not  in  a  cultivated  garden,  and  often 
we  found  ourselves  unconsciously  looking  for  the  house,  the  host,  and  the  gardener. 

72 


FENZLIA,  Nat.  Orel.  Polemomacea:. 

EN/LIA  DIANTHIFLORA  is  a  very  neat  little  plant,  bearing  a  perfect 
mass  of  small  flowers.  In  fact  both  plant  and  flower  are  miniature  in 
size.  The  flowers  are  rosy  tinted,  with  a  yellow  throat,  surrounded  by 
dark  colored  spots.  This  little  plant  is  a 
native  of  California,  and  we  think  must  grow 
up  among  the  mountains  or  in  the  shady  can- 
yons, for  it  seems  to  require  both  shade  and 
moisture,  and  suffers  materially  in  the  garden 
in  a  hot,  dry  season.  It  is  veiy  desirable  for 
pots  or  baskets,  or  for  window  or  conserva- 
tory decoration,  forming  a  globular  mass  of 
flowers,  four  inches  in  diameter,  and  constantly  in  flower,  when  the  plant  is  healthy  and  strong. 

GAILLARDIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 

AILLARDIA  is  a  really  good  bedding  annual,  the  plants  being 
strong,  constant  bloomers  through  the  whole  summer,  and  each 
plant  covering  a  good  deal  of  ground.  The  plants  are  somewhat 
coarse,  and  the  flowers  by  no  means  delicate,  yet  a  good  bed  of 
Gaillardia  will  bring  no  discredit  upon  the  taste  of  the  cultivator. 
The  Gaillardias  are  natives  of 
Texas  and  other  Southern  States, 
and  are  known  by  the  common 
name  of  Blanket  Flower  in  some 
sections  of  the  South,  under  which 
name  we  have  received  many  speci- 
mens of  seed  and  flowers.  Half- 
hardy  annuals;  bear  transplanting  well,  and  should  be  set  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  apart. 

GILIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Polemoniacea. 

Gilias  are  free-flowering,  hardy  annuals,  growing  from  six  to  ten  inches  in  height,  with 
clusters  of  small,  delicate,  yet  bright,  lively  flowers,  that  make  very  pretty  little  masses  or  clumps, 
but  do  not  look  well  in  very  large  beds  or  masses. 
The  Gilias,  like  so  many  of  our  fine  annuals,  are 

natives  of  California,  and  were  discovered  and  in-  S.~  -''        ^  • 

A       \    •  .      17  i      .    f   *, 

troduced    into     Europe    about    forty    years    since.       -&m  //r~        V 

Plants  of  most  of  the  varieties  flower  very  early,     i^^^^^^Kf^      Jf 

often  in  the  seed  bed,  and  almost  as  soon  as  out  of    ~~ 

the  seed-leaf.      The  flowers  are  small,  borne  in 

panicles,  and  desirable  for  cutting.       Quite  hardy, 

and  seed  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground,  but  if  transplanted  should  be  removed  when  small. 

HELIANTHUS,  (Sunflower,)  Nat.  Ord.  Compositor. 

ELIANTHUS  is  the  well  known  old  fashioned  Sunflower ;  coarse,  tall 
plants,  from  four  to  eight  feet  in  height,  with  bright  yellow  flowers. 
The  best  double  varieties  produce  a  very  good  effect  among  shrub- 
bery, and  when  used  as  screens,  etc.  The  Sunflower  is  a  native  of 
Peru,  and  in  old  times  was  regarded  with  some  reverence  as  a  flower 
sacred  to  the  sun,  and  was  worn  by  the  virgins  of  the  sun  at  the  great 
festivals  of  the  Incas.  It  is  no  doubt  the  flower  alluded  to  by  Ovid. 
E-  when  he  represented  Clytia  as  pining  to  death  for  love  of  Apollo  and 
being  changed  by  the  pitying  god  into  a  flower  which  turned  to  the 
sun.  The  Sunflower  is  hardy  and  annually  reproduces  itself  from 
self-sown  seed.  Many  are  now  turning  their  attention  to  the  growth  of  the  Sun-flower  for  the 
production  of  oil,  and  as  food  for  poultry,  and  Prof.  MAURY  published  a  series  of  articles  endeavor- 
ing to  prove  that  for  the  destruction  of  malaria  in  swampy  districts  it  was  invaluable,  we  have  no 
doubt  equaling  the  Eucalypttts. 


HUNNEMANNIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Papaveracea. 

Hunnematmia  fumarisefolia  is  a  beautiful  herbaceous  perennial,  from  Mexico,  but  one,  we 
regret,  not  hardy  in  Northern  latitudes.       Fortunately,  however,  the  plant  makes  a  rapid  growth, 

arrives  at  maturity  and  flowers  the  first 
season.  We,  at  the  North,  therefore,  can 
treat  the  Hunnemannia  as  an  annual,  and 
by  sowing  the  seed  every  spring  enjoy  its 
beauty  as  well  as  those  who  are  blessed 
with  a  more  favorable  climate.  The 
plant  makes  a  growth  of  about  two  feet ; 
the  flowers  are  bright  yellow  and  tulip- 
formed.  We  are  always  pleased  with  this  flower,  and  can,  therefore,  recommend  its  culture. 

KAULFUSSIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 

AULFUSSIAS  are  pretty,  little,  free  flowering,  hardy  annuals,  having  the 
appearance  of  single  Asters,  but  the  ray  florets  curl  back  in  a  very 
curious  way,  after  the  flower  has  been  expanded 
a  short  time.  The  plants  make  a  low  growth, 
only  being  about  six  inches  in  height,  and 
would  be  excellent  for  bedding,  only  that  they 
make  their  growth  early  in  the  season,  and 
bloom  and  ripen  their  seed  long  before  we  are 
prepared  to  dispense  with  any  bedding  plant 
that  has  been  enlisted  in  the  work  of  ornament- 
ing our  lawns  or  gardens.  There  are  many, 
however,  who,  despite  this  fault,  are  very  much  attached  to  the  pretty  little  Kaulfussia.  The  col- 
ors of  all  the  varieties  are  good,  and  of  some  very  intense. 

LEPTOSIPHON,  Nat.  Ord.  Polemoniacea. 

EPTOSIPHONS  are  low,  pretty,  hardy,  California  annuals,  growing  less 
than  six  inches  in  height,  and  bearing  clusters  of  delicate  little  flow- 
ers. Like  many  other  Cali- 
fornia anuuals,  they  do  not 
seem  to  bear  our  hot  dry  sum- 
mers very  well,  but  do  not 
suffer  by  either  wet  or  cold. 
They  are  so  perfectly  hardy 
that  we  have  always  suc- 
ceeded by  sowing  seed  late  in 
the  autumn  or  at  the  earliest 
possible  moment  in  the  spring,  as  we  have  advised  for  Clarkia.  This  course  produces  early 
spring  flowers  in  abundance.  A  border  on  the  north  side  of  a  fence  or  building  suits  them  exactly. 

LINUM,  (Flax,)  Nat.  Ord.  Linacece. 

Linum  grandiflorum  rubrum  is  a  very  fine  half-hardy  annual,  with   beautiful,  bright   crimson 
flowers  that  continue  all  through  the  summer.      The  habit  of  the  plant 
is  neat  and   slender,  like  all  the  Flax  family,  and  it  grows  to  eighteen 
inches  or  more  in  height.      When  planted  a 
foot  apart,  this  Flax   makes  a  very  good  bed. 
We  have  endeavored  to  show,  in  the  engrav- 
ing, the  habit  of  the  plant,  and  also  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  flower,  which  is  of  a  brilliant 
scarlet  color,  and  about  the  size  shown  in  the 
engraving.       Seeds  germinate  best  in  the  hot- 
bed, but  will  do  pretty  well  if  sown  in  the 

garden  in  a  light  soil.     Perennial  varieties  will  be  found  described  in  the  proper  department. 

74 


LOBELIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Lobeliacece. 

Lobelias  are  a  class  of  plants  of  great  beauty  and  remarkably  useful  to  the  gardener,  being 
adapted  to  a  great  variety  of  ornamental  purposes.  Some  of  the  Lobelias  are  strong,  hardy 
perennials,  like  our  Cardinal  Flower.  The  annual  varieties  are 
mostly  of  a  trailing  habit,  bearing  immense 
numbers  of  small  flowers,  and  are  particularly 
adapted  to  baskets,  vases,  etc.,  where  drooping 
plants  look  so  graceful ;  they  are  also  freely  used 
as  edgings  for  beds  of  ornamental- leaved  and 
other  bedding  plants.  A  few  varieties  form 
compact,  almo^:  globular,  little  plants,  and  one  of  these  we  have  shown  in  the  engraving.  This 
style  is  superb  for  edgings  of  beds,  pots,  and  like  purposes,  which  the  habit  will  suggest  to  the 
thoughtful  florist. 

LUPINUS,  (Lupine,)  Nat.  Ord.  Leguminoste. 

The  Lupins  are  a  well-known  genus  of  very  conspicuous  plants,  and  there  are  very  few  peo- 
ple that  are  not  acquainted  with  some  of  the  varieties.  We  have  cultivated  the  Lupin  for  a 
couple  of  scores  of  years,  have  seen  it  in  the  best  gar- 
dens of  Europe  ,  and  yet  we  never  realized  its  wealth  of 
beauty  until  we  met  it  in  its  California  home.  Here  we 
saw  the  little,  dwarf  Lupin,  scarcely  six  inches  in  height 
with  its  pretty,  miniature  flowers,  and  the  mammoth 
plant  full  six  feet,  with  flowering  stems  stretching 
themselves  out  like  giant  arms.  Here  we  saw  the  white, 
the  yellow,  the  blue,  the  variegated, — Lupins  of  every 
hue.  We  returned  with  greater  love  than  ever  for  this  old-fashioned  flower.  All  the  Lupins  are 
hardy,  and  seed  can  be  sown  in  the  open  ground.  The  Lupin  has  a  tap  root  and  does  not 
transplant  well. 

LYCHNIS,  Nat.  Ord.  Caryophyllacea:. 

The  Lychnis  family  are  mostly  perennials,  but  flower  the  first  season  under  good  treatment, 
and  endure  the  winter  unusually  well.       Some,  like  L.  Chalcedonica,  are  old  friends,  but  of  late 

years  florists  have   greatly  improved  this  flower,  and 

the    better    varieties     now    give     flowers     as     large 

as    Japan   Pinks,    and    of  a 

great  variety  of  colors,  such 

as    rose,    red, 

and        white. 

To         obtain 

good    flowers 

the  first  sum- 
mer, seeds  should  be  started  under  glass  and  transplanted 
as  early  as  the  weather  will  permit.  The  taller  varieties 
are  excellent  for  planting  among  shrubbery.  A  piece  of 
shrubbery  looks  quite  sombre  a  great  part  of  the  season, 
and  the  sooner  we  learn  to  light  up  our  shrubberies  with  tall,  bright  flowers,  the  better.  The 
engraving  on  the  right  shows  one  of  the  improved,  large  varieties,  Haageana  ;  at  the  left,  Chal- 
cedonica, both  less  than  half  natural  size. 


MALOPE,  Nat.  Orel.  Malvaceie. 

ALOPE  differs  from  the  Mallow,  botanically,  principally  in  the 
shape  of  the  capsules,  and  their  arrangement,  but  to  the  florist  th- 
principal  difference  is  in  the  su- 
perior size  and  beauty  of  the  Mai- 
ope  flower.  The  only  varieties  we 
would  recommend  "for  culture  are 
M.  grandiflora,  a  bright  purplish 
flower,  more  than  three  inches 
across  and  M.  grandiflora  alba, 
pure  white,  and  about  two  inches. 
The  Malope  is  a  strong  growing 
plant,  three  feet  in  height.  Seed 
may  be  sown  under  glass,  and  then 
plants  will  bloom  very  early ;  or  in  the  open  ground,  with  a  later,  but  quite  as  strong  a  growth. 

MARIGOLD,   (Tagetes,)  Nat.  Ord.  Composites. 

Marigold,  or  Tagetes,  as  the  French  and  African  Marigolds  are  called,  are  so  well  known  that 
no  general  description  will  be  necessary,  as  they  have  been  cultivated  for  more  than  two  hundred 

years.  The  French  Marigold,  no  doubt,  came 
from  Peru,  or  some  part  of  South  America, 
while  the  name  of  the  African  indicates  its 
true  origin.  Both  are  tall,  coarse  plants,  the 
African  being  the  more  robust,  often  reaching 
more  than  two  feet  in  height.  The  flowers 
large,  some  being  four  inches  across,  double, 
in  color  yellow,  orange,  and  brown.  There 
are  several  dwarf  varieties,  growing  only  from 
six  inches  to  a  foot  in  height.  A  comparatively  new  variety,  signata  pumila,  makes  a  beautiful 
plant,  almost  a  perfect  ball,  a  foot  or  more  in  diameter,  and  covered  with  hundreds  of  single 
yellow  flowers,  as  shown  in  the  engraving.  The  leaves  are  finely  cut,  almost  fern-like,  and  the 
plant  continues  to  increase  in  beauty  until  frost. 

MARTYNIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Pedaliacete. 

The  Martynias  are  coarse,  robust,  hardy  annuals,  of  a  spreading  habit,  requiring  at  least  three 
feet  of  space  to  perfect  their  growth.  They  are  natives  of  Louisiana,  Texas,  Mexico,  and  farther 
South.  The  engraving  gives  a  front  view  of  the  flower,  which  is 
tubular,  and  about  an  inch  in  length.  The  colors  are  yellow,  white 
and  purple,  and  one  variety,  formosa,  is  sweetly  fragrant.  The 
seed  -  pods  are  very  curi- 
ously formed,  as  will  be 
seen  by  the  little  engrav- 
ing, and  they  grow  six 
inches  or  more  in  length  ; 
the  variety  called  probo- 
scidea  having  the  largest 


pods,  and  these, 


c  largi 
wnen 


about  two-thirds  grown  and  quite  tender,  are  much  prized  for  pickles. 


MEBICAGO,   Nat.  Ord.  Leguminosce. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  Medicago  more  or  less  cultivated  for  their  curious  seed-pod.-.. 
These  we  have  never  thought  worthy  of  description  in  the 
GUIDE,  as  the  flowers  are  by  no  means  beautiful ;  yet  there  is 
considerable  demand  for  the  seed-pods  by  those  who  use  them  for 
^e  mam'fact;ure  of  rustic  picture  frames,  and  other  rustic  work. 
We,  therefore,  give  engravings  of  two  of  the  best,  one  called 
Snail,  and  the  other,  Bee-hive,  or  Hedge-hog;  of  the  appropriateness  of  these  names  we  leave 
our  readers  to  judge. 

76 


MESEMBRYANTHEMUM,  Nat.  Ord.  Ficoidea. 
The  Mesembryanthemums  are  pretty,  half  hardy  annuals,  with  delicate,  succulent,  almost 

transparent  leaves  and  branches.  The  two  most  popular  varieties  in  America  are  those  commonly 
known  as  Ice-plant  and  Dew-plant.  Both  are  excellent  for  baskets,  vases, 
pots,  etc.,  the  Ice-plant  having  thick,  fleshy  leaves  and  stems,  covered  with 
little  shining  globules,  which  it  will  take  some  investigation  to  convince 
the  spectator  are  not  "  truly  ice."  The  flowers  are  small,  white,  and  un- 
important. The  Dew-plant  has  a  smooth,  light  green,  pretty,  dewy-looking 
leaf,  a  graceful  slender,  habit,  and  a  very  pretty  pink  flower.  Both  are 
drooping  plants,  and  therefore,  with  their  pretty  foliage,  peculiarly  adapted 
to  basket  and  vase  work.  The  increased  attention  given  to  these  graceful 
decorations  has  made  the  Mesembryanthemums  and  other  plants  adapted 
to  this  work  very  popular.  The  culture  of  plants  with  pretty  ornamental 
foliage  that  can  be  grown  from  the  seed  early  in  the  spring  so  as  to  produce 

a  good  effect  during  the  season,  should  be  encouraged,  as  it  places  very  large  resources  in  the 

hands  of  the  gardener  at  a  mere  trifling  cost. 

MIGNONETTE,  (Reseda,)  Nat.  Ord.  Resedacea. 
We  need  not  describe  the  Sweet  Mignonette,  that  every  one  knows  and  everybody  loves,  and 

yet  very  few  cultivate,  compared  with  the  many  who  might  thus  show  their  love  for  this  sweet 

little  flower.      In  Europe,  especially  in  England  and  Germany,  we 

noticed  Mignonette  growing  in  every  possible  place  and  in  every  im-' 

aginable  receptacle.    For  the  wealthy,  beautiful  and  costly  Mignonette 

pots  and  boxes  are    provided,    that  will    elegantly 

adorn  the  window  sill,  or  nicely  fill  and  beautify  any 

niche    or    bracket.       Those    not    blessed    with   so 

much  of  earthly  good  use  ordinary  flower  pots,  while 

the  children   press  into  the  service  broken  teapots 

and  old  crockeiy  of  every  conceivable  pattern.    Seeds 

of  Mignonette  can  be  sown  at  any  season,  so  that 

by  having  pots  prepared    at  different  times  a  sue-    H? 

cession  of  flowers  can  be  secured,  and  Mignonette 

adorn  the  button  hole  and  perfume  the  house  at  all  times.      The  florists  of  Europe  have  intro- 
duced several  new  varieties    of  Mignonette    among  their   novelties,  claiming   for   them  much 

superiority  over  our  old  and  well  loved  Sweet  Mignonette ;  but  these  claims,  we  have  always 

found,  on  trial,  to  have  but  little  foundation  in  truth.     The  New  White,  with  a  larger  flower  and 

more  robust  growth,  and  a  little  whiter  in  color,  is  the  only  new  kind  of  merit. 

MIRABILIS,  Nat.  Ord.  Nyctaginacece. 

Mirabilis  Jalapa  is  the  well  known  Marvel  of  Peru,  a  native,  we  believe,  of  South  America, 
and  also  of  the  West  Indies,  and  first  found  in  Peru,  soon  after  the  discovery  of  the  country, 
when  everything  from  that  strange  land  was  considered  marvelous.  It 
was  at  one  time  supposed  that  the  root  of  this  plant  furnished  the  Jalap 
of  commerce,  hence  the  name,  but  this  was  found  to  be  untrue.  It  is 
also  known  as  the  Four-o'clock,  because  its  flowers  expand  about  that 
time  in  the  evening  and  fade  the  next  morning.  By  the  French  it  is 
called  Belle  of  the  Night.  It  is  really  a  good  plant, 
about  two  feet  in  height,  well  branched,  with  bright 
foliage,  fragrant  flowers,  desirable  colors,  and  fine 
markings.  Plants  should  be  about  two  feet  apart. 
It  makes  a  nice  summer  hedge  if  set  in  a  row  about 
a  foot  apart.  Seed  should  be  planted  in  the  open 
^  ground,  where  the  plants  are  desired.  The  Mirab- 
ilis is  generally  treated  as  a  half-hardy  annual. 
The  roots,  however,  may  be  taken  up  in  the  autumn  and  preserved  like  Dahlias,  during  the  win 
ter;  but  as  plants  are  obtained  so  readily  from  seed,  and  flower  so  soon,  this  course  is  seldom 
practiced.  The  flower  shown  in  the  engraving  is  about  two-thirds  the  natural  size. 

77 


MIMULUS,  Nat.  Ord.  Scrophulariacea:. 

The  Mimuli,  sometimes  called  Monkey  Flowers,  are  beautiful,  tender  looking  plants.     The 

branches  are  almost  trans- 
parent and  quite  succulent, 
and  are  eas^y  broken  by 

the  wind-    For  baskets 

under  the  shelter  of  veran- 
dahs, vases,  and  for  culture 
in  the  house,  not  many 
plants  will  give  more  satis- 
faction. M.  cardinalis  does  very  well  in  the  garden.  Flowers  of  the  Mimulus  are  very  brilliant. 

MYOSOTIS,  Nat.  Ord.  Boraginacees. 

Perennial  plants,  that  flower  the  first  season  if  sown  early,  bearing  small  white  and  blue  flowers. 
Delight  in  a  rather  moist  situation.    Fine  for  moist  rock-work.    All 
the  blue  varieties  are  commonly  called  Forget-me-not.      M.  pa- 
lustris  is  the  old  and  popular  Forget-me-not. 
The  branches  cut  and  placed  in  water  will 
continue  to  bloom  a  long   time,  almost  as 
well  as  if  on  the  plant,  and  will  often  make 
roots,  and  considerable  growth.      Seed  may 
be  sown  in  the  hot-bed  and  transplanted  as 
early  as  possible,  or  may  be   sown  in  the 
open  ground  in  the  spring,  so  as  to  get  a  good  growth  before  the  hot,  dry  weather  of  summer. 

NEMOPHILA,  Nat.  Ord.  Hydrophyllacea. 

EMOPHILAS  are  pretty,  delicate,  hardy  annuals,  throwing  up 
their  slender  flower  stems  a  few  inches.  The  leaves  are  very 
pretty  in  form,  and  of  a  delicate,  lively 
green,  and,  if  the  plants  are  grown  in 
masses,  have  a  mossy  appearance.  The 
flowers  are  mainly  blue  and  white,  and  of 
the  forms  shown  in  the  engravings.  They 
are  native  Americans,  and  yet  flourish 
much  better  in  the  moist  climate  of  Brit- 
ain than  here.  Nemophilas  were  first  found 
fifty  years  since,  in  shady,  moist  places 

on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri  River.  This  fact  shows  why  they  will  not 
better  endure  our  hot,  dry  summers.  No  annual  is  grown  with  greater 
success  in  England  than  the  Nemophila,  and  we  hardly  think  as  exten- 
sively. On  the  high  land  in  Calaveras 

County,  California,  and  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  big  trees, 
we  saw  acres  of  Nemophilas,  beautifying  the  waste  land,  and 
finer  than  we  ever  saw  them 
in  the  gardens  of  Europe  or 
America.  They  do  best  if 
sown  in  a  frame  and  trans- 
planted early,  as  the  hot  sun 
injures  the  flowers ;  but  do 
finely  all  summer,  if  planted 
in  a  rather  cool,  shady  place. 
Set  about  six  inches  apart.  A 
few  plants  set  early  among 
spring-flowering  bulbs,  such 
as  Tulips,  etc.,  flower  splen- 
didly, and  a  few  seeds  scat- 
tered over  the  beds  of  bulbs  will  render  a  very  good  accouut  of  themselves  in  the  early  spring. 

78 


NIEREMBERGIA,    Nat.  Ord.  Solanacea:. 

The  Nierembergias  are  very  pretty  plants  with  delicate,  whitish  flowers,  tinted  with  lilac,  and 
with  a  deep  puq^lish  lilac  blotch  in  the  center.  The  plant  is  slender  and  delicate,  bearing  abund- 
ance of  flowers  the  whole  summer.     The  Nierembergias  are  tender  peren- 
nials, and  are  therefore  suitable  for  house  cidture,  or  they  may  be  treated 
as  tender  annuals,  and  will  flower  early  in  the  season,  if  transferred  from 
the  frame  or  the  green-house  to  the  garden, 

'-^IS^SsS^ElSi'^,  wnen  there  is  no  danger  of  frost.  They  are 
natives  of  South  America,  and  are  worthy  of 
more  general  culture.  For  baskets,  vases,  etc., 
we  cannot  recommend  the  Nierembergia  too 
highly.  The  engraving  shows  the  flower  of 
natural  size,  and  is  a  fair  representation  of  its  form,  but  the  engraving  representing  the  appear- 
ance of  the  plant  does  not  give  so  good  an  idea  of  its  character. 

NIGELLA,  Nat.  Ord.  Ranunailacea:. 

The  Nigellas  are  curious,  hardy  annuals,  with  finely  cut  leaves,  and  very  curious,  showy 
flowers,  which,  from  their  singular  construction,  have  acquired  many  odd  names,  as  Love-in-a- 
Mist,  Devil-in-a-Bush,  etc.  Seeds 
grow  very  readily,  and  may  be  sown 
in  the  open  ground  early  in  the  spring, 
and  in  most  sections  in  the  autumn. 
They  are  natives  of  Asia  Minor,  Egypt} 
and  other  Eastern  countries,  and  the 
seeds,  being  aromatic,  are  extensively 
used  both  by  oriental  cooks  and  physi-  A 
cians.  Indeed,  they  are  supposed  by  *t 
Egyptian  ladies  to  improve  the  complexion ;  but  as  their  ideas  of  a  good  complexion  may  not 
agree  with  Western  notions,  perhaps  it  would  not  be  well  to  try  the  experiment.  Both  seeds  and 
leaves,  we  believe,  are  used  in  India  to  prevent  the  ravages  of  moth  and  other  insects  among 
clothing. 

NOLANA,  Nat.  Ord.  Nolanacece. 

Nolanas  are  trailing,  hardy  annuals,  the  plant  fleshy  and  succulent,  and  with  flowers  very 
much  resembling  Convolvulus  minor,  but  with  more  substance.     The  Nolana  prefers  a  light  soil, 
and  it  is  seldom  too  hot  or  dry  to  suit  its  wants.      The  Nolana  is  a 
native  of  Peru  and  Chili.      Seed  may  be  sown  in  the  border  where 
the  flowers  are  desired,  or  in  a  seed-bed  in  the  garden,  to  be  trans- 
planted as  needed.      Excellent  for  rock-  work,  baskets,  etc.      The 
Nolana    delights    in  the   same  treat- 
ment, soil,  &c.,  as  the  Portulaca,  and 
may  be  used  with  the  best  effect  in 
situations   where   our   old    Portulaca 
H  would    be   desirable.     This    class   of 

plants,  the  natives  of  Southern  climes, 

* 

that  delight  in  heat  and  drouth,  are  our  choicest  treasures  in  midsummer,  when  the  thermometer 
is  above  ninety  much  of  the  day,  without  a  drop  of  rain  for  weeks. 


CENOTHERA,  (Evening  Primrose,)  Nat.  Ord.  Onagracece. 

ENOTHERAS  are  a  very  fine  genus  of  showy  plants,  opening  their 
flowers  suddenly  in  the 
latter  part  of  the  day, 
and    making    a    most 
brilliant  exhibition  du- 
ring   the   evening  and 
early  in    the  morning. 
Some  of  the  large  va- 
rieties   will    attract 
much  attention  as  any , 
thing     that      can      be' 
grown.    They  certainly 

look  like  things  of  life,  as  they  open  with  a  nervous 
motion  that  cannot  only  be  seen  but  heard.  The  low, 
white  variety,  acaulis  alba,  is  a  marvel  of  beauty,  pro- 
ducing flowers  four  inches  across,  pure  white,  and  one 
or  more  flowers  appearing  each  successive  evening.  Most  other  varieties  are  primrose  yellow. 

OBELISCARIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Composites. 

The  Obeliscarias  are  coarse  plants  with  showy  flowers.  The  best,  O.  pulcherrima,  exhibits 
a  strange  commingling  of  red,  brown  and  yellow.  The  engraving  gives  a 
very  good  idea  of  the  form  of  this  flower,  with 
its  curious,  acorn-like  center,  and  drooping 
petals,  or  rather,  the  ray-flowers.  These  ray- 
flowers  are  of  a  rich,  velvety  crimson,  edged 
with  yellow.  The  central  cone,  or  disk,  is 
brown  until  the  ray-flowers  expand,  and  they 
are  bright  yellow.  The  flowers  are  borne  on 
pretty  long  stems,  and  plants  are  about  eigh- 
teen inches  in  height.  The  Obeliscaria  we  cannot  call  beautiful,  but  it  is  interesting. 

OXYURA,  Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 

Oxyura  chrysanthemoides  is  a  very  pretty,  free-flowering,  little  hardy  annual,  one  of  the  very 
many  pretty  things  for  which  we  are  indebted  to  California.     The  plant 
is  neat  in  habit,  branching,  about  eighteen 
inches    in  height;  the  flower   is    daisy-like, 
size  and  form  being  very  well  represented  in 
the  engraving.      The  color  is   of  the   most 
delicate   lemon   yellow,  with  a  clear,  white 
edging.      The  effect  of  these  two  colors  is 
very  pretty.     The  only  possible  objection  to 
this  plant  is  the  fact  that  it  does  not  continue  in  flower  all  the  summer,  like  the  Phlox,  Petunia,  etc. 

PALAFOXIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 
ALAFOXIA  HOOKERIANA  is  a  fine,  new 
several  species,  but  the  best  is  the  one  we 
describe,  which  is  of  a  dwarf,  branching 
habit.  The  flowers  are  rosy  crimson, 
with  a  dark  center,  and  continue  in 
flower  well  through  the  summer.  We 
have  uniformly  sown  the  seed  of  this 
flower  under  glass,  judging  from  its  ap- 
pearance and  place  of  nativity.  Texas 
and  Mexico,  that  this  would  be  the  best 
treatment,  but  some  of  our  correspondents 
have  succeeded  by  sowing  in  the  open  ground.  Set  the  plants  about  ten  inches  apart. 

80 


annual.       There    are 


PANSY,  (Viola  tricolor,)  Nat.  Orel.  Violacea:. 

The  Pansy  is  the  little  Heartsease  of  Europe,  become  somewhat  naturalized  in  America,  and 
wonderfully  improved  by  cultivation.  It  was  about  sixty  years  ago  that  this  flower  first  attracted 
the  special  notice  of  florists,  their  attention  being  called  to  it  by  the  great 
success  of  a  lady  amateur.  We  give  an  engraving  of  the  Hearts-ease 
as  it  is  found  wild.  The  French  call  it  Pensee,  and  this  is,  no  doubt,  the 
origin  of  the  common  name,  Pansy.  The  Pansy  is  now  a  popular 
'  flo\\»er  with  both  florists  and  amateurs,  giving  abundance  of  bloom  until 
after  severe  frosts,  enduring  our  hard  winters  with  safety,  and  greeting 
us  in  the  earliest  spring  with  a  profusion  of  bright  blossoms.  It  will 
flower  better  in  the  middle  of  the  summer,  if  planted  where  it  is  some- 
what shaded  from  the  hot 
sun,  and  especially  if  fur- 
nished with  a  good  supply 

of  water,  but  in  almost  any  situation  will  give  fine 
flowers  in  the  spring  and  autumn.  If  plants  come 
into  bloom  in  the  heat  of  summer,  the  flowers  will 
be  small  at  first ;  but  as  the  weather  becomes  cooler, 
they  will  increase  in  size  and  beauty.  Often  plants 
that  produce  flowers  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diam- 
eter during  the  cool,  showery  weather  of  spring, 
will  give  only  the  smallest  possible  specimens 
during  the  dry  weather  of  summer.  To  have  good 
flowers,  the  plant  must  be  vigorous,  and  make  a 
rapid  growth.  No  flower  is  more  easily  ruined  by 
'11  treatment  or  adverse  circumstances.  Seed  may 
be  sown  in  the  hot-bed  or  open  ground.  If  young 
plants  are  grown  in  the  autumn,  and  kept  in  a  frame 
during  the  winter,  with  a  little  covering  in  the 
severest  weather,  they  will  be  ready  to  set  out  very 
early  in  the  spring,  and 
give  flowers  until  hot 
weather.  If  seed  is  sown 
in  the  spring,  get  it  in  as 
early  as  possible,  so  as  to 

have  plants  readf  to  flower  during  the  spring  rains.  Seed  sown  in  a 
cool  place  in  June  or  July,  and  well  watered  until  up,  will  make  plants 
for  autumn  flowering.  The  Pansies  make  a  beautiful  bed,  and  are 
interesting  as  individual  flowers.  No  flower  is  so  companionable  and  life-like.  It  requires  no 
very  great  stretch  of  the  imagination  to  cause  one  to  believe  that  they  see  and  move,  and 
acknowledge  our  admiration  in  a  very  pretty,  knowing  way. 

PKRILLA,   Nat.  Ord.  Labiatte. 

The  Perilla  Nankinensis  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  ornamental-leaved  annuals.     It  has  a  broad, 
serrated    leaf,    of  a    purplish    mulberry    color,    and    makes    a    well 
formed  plant,  as  represented  in  the  engraving,  and  eighteen  inches 
or  more  in  height.       It  is  very  desirable  for  the  center  of  a  bed  of 
ornamental-leaved  plants,  and  we  can  recommend  it  also  for  a  low 
screen  or  hedge,  and  such  hedges  will  be  found  exceedingly  useful 
in  many  situations.       The  Perilla  is  one  of  the  plants  that  is  good 
for  some  special  work,  indeed,  almost  invaluable,  but  in  an  ordinary 
collection  of  flower  seeds  would  not  be  desirable.     We  are  induced 
V    to  mention  this  fact  here,  because,  last  season,  a  gentleman  wrote 
r    us  that  we  had  better  leave  this  plant  out  of  our  collection,  as  it  was 
no  better  than  a  weed  —  and,  perhaps,  he  was  right,  for  a  weed  is 
any  plant  out  of  place.     An  Aster  among  a  bed  of  Petunias  would  be  a  weed. 

81 


PETUNIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Solanacetz. 

Just  fifty  years  ago,  the  White  Petunia  was  found  by  a  botanical  explorer  in  South  America,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Rio  de  la  Plata.     For  seven  years  the  florists  of  Europe  were  delighted  with  this 

poor,  white  flower,  when  a  Purple  Petunia  was  discovered 
in  Brazil.  Since  that  time,  1830,  the  improvement  of  this 
flower  has  been  constant.  About  fifteen  years  since  the  floral 
world  were  surprised  by  the  announcement  of  a  double  white 
Petunia.  It  was  only  semi-double,  but  now  we  have  them  well 
doubled,  of  all  colors,  and  as  large  as  any  one  can  wish.  Seed 
sown  in  the  spring  will  produce  flowering  plants  in  June  that 
will  continue  to  bloom  abundantly  until  frost,  and  may  be 
8[  sown  in  a  cold-frame  or  hot-bed,  or  in  the  open  ground.  Set 
the  plants  about  eighteen  inches  apart.  They  come  pretty  true 
from  seed,  though  not  reliable  in  this  respect,  being  inclined 
to  sport.  The  Petunia  as  at  present  cultivated  embraces  three 
distinct  classes.  The  grandiflora  varieties  make  quite  a  strong, 
succulent  growth,  and  the  stems  and  leaves  are  sticky  to  the 
touch.  These  bear  a  few  very  large,  magnificent  flowers,  often 
from  three  to  four 
inches  across.  They 
bear  but  few  seeds 
and  these  are  obtain- 
ed at  great  expense  of 
labor.  In  the  open 
ground  they  give  no 

seed,  so  plants  for  seed  must  be  grown  in  pots  on  stages, 
sheltered  from  rain  and  dews,  and  fertilization  is  accom- 
plished by  hand,  the  pollen  being  distributed  with  the 
aid  of  a  camel-hair  brush.  Of  course,  seed  obtained  in 
this  way  is  always  expensive,  but  the  wonderful  size 
and  the  richness  of  the  coloring  well  repays  the  cost. 
In  this  class  we  have  a  Fringed  Petunia,  new  and 
unique.  The  Double  Petunia  gives  no  seed,  and  those  V 
that  will  produce  double  flowers  are  obtained  by  fertiliz- 
ing single  flowers  with  the  pollen  of  the  double,  in 
the  manner  previously  described.  The  third  class  is  t|^ 
small  flowered  varieties.  The  plants  are  of  a  slender, 
wiry  growth,  but  cover  a  good  deal  of  ground.  They 
bear  an  immense  number  of  flowers,  from  early  summer 
until  frost,  and  seed  freely  in  the  open  ground.  A  well  filled  circular  bed,  six  feet  in  diameter, 
will  display  continually,  without  a  day's  intermission,  thousands  of  flowers.  We  know  of  no 
annual,  and  but  few  flowers  of  any  kind,  that  will  make  a  more  brilliant  bed.  Our  engravings 
show  one  of  the  small-flowered  varieties  of  natural  size,  and  a  double  flower  much  reduced. 

PHAGELIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Hydrophyllace<z. 

The  Phacelias  are  hardy  annuals,  very  much  resembling  the  Eutocas,  and,  we  believe,  all 
natives  of  America.      Most  of  the  varieties  are  blue,  though  there  are  some  white.      This  flower 
V,    ,.        does  not  really  possess    much  merit,  though  pretty  fair  as  a  border 

plant,  and  good  for  bouquet  making.  We  only 
recommend  two  varieties.  P.  tanacetifolia 
alba,  presenting  a  very  remarkable  appearance 
from  the  strings  of  whitish  flowers  that  appear 
to  have  just  unrolled,  the  long,  black  hairs 
with  which  it  is  covered,  and  the  singular  sta- 
mens, which  project  far  beyond  the  corolla  of 
the  flowers.  P.  congesta  is  somewhat  less  robust,  not  so  hairy,  and  flowers  light  blue. 


PHLOX     DRUMMONDII,  Nat.  Ord.  Polemoniaceee. 

No  annual  excels  the  Phlox  for  a  brilliant  and  constant  display.  Indeed,  if  confined  to  one 
plant  for  the  decoration  of  the  lawn  or  border,  the  Phlox  Drummondii  would  be  my  choice  over 
any  annual  or  perennial  with  which  I  am  acquainted.  It  seems  to  have  every  desirable  quality 
for  this  purpose.  The  colors  range  from  the  purest  white  to  the  deepest  crimson,  including  purple, 
and  yellow,  and  striped,  the  clear  eye  of  the  Phlox  being  peculiarly  marked.  Seed  may  be  sown 
in  the  open  ground  in  May,  or  in  a  cold-frame  or  hot-bed  earlier  in  the  season;  and  in  either  case, 
from  Tune,  during  the  whole  summer  and  autumn,  they  make  a  most  brilliant  bed  of  showy  yet 

delicate  flowers.  A  good  bed 
of  Phlox  is  a  sight  that  daz- 
zles the  eye  with  its  brilliancy. 
The  Phlox,  in  a  good,  rich 
soil,  will  grow  more  than 
eighteen  inches  in  height,  but 
as  there  is  not  sufficient 
strength  in  the  main  stem,  it 
will  not  stand  entirely  erect. 
A  foot  apart  is  about  near 
enough  to  set  the  plants,  un- 
less the  soil  is  very  poor.  If 
too  thick,  they  suffer  from  mil- 
dew. The  Phlox  makes  a  very 

good  border  or  low  summer  hedge.  The  finest 
effect,  however,  is  produced  by  planting  each  color 
in  a  separate  bed  or  in  ribbon  fashion,  its  constant 
bloom  making  it  very  desirable  for  these  purposes.  Indeed,  we  know  of  no  annual  or  perennial 
that  will  give  a  more  brilliant  and  constant  mass  of  color.  The  Phlox  is  a  native  of  America. 
It  was  first  discovered  in  Texas,  in  1835,  by  DRUMMOND,  a  collector  sent  out  by  the  Glasgow 
Botanical  Society.  It  was  the  last  new  plant  he  sent  home,  as  he  soon  after  died  in  Cuba. 
The  buds,  just  before  opening,  look  like  a  flame,  and  hence  the  name, 
Phlox,  or  Flame.  I  grow  from  five  to  ten  acres  of  Phlox  every  year, 
devoting  much  time  and  means  to  its  improvement,  and  have  no  hesi- 
tation in  saying  my  strain  of  Phlox  Drummondii  is  the  best  the  world 
produces.  Indeed,  I  have  already  introduced  several  new  varieties, 
showing  much  improvement  either  in  form  or  coloring,  and  have  seve- 
ral more  on  trial,  among  them  one  with  a  pretty  fringed  edge;  another, 
very  large,  of  unusual  substance,  and  perfect,  rounded  form;  and  if  I 
should,  in  a  year  or  two,  introduce  a  good,  double,  annual  Phlox,  I  would  be  more  pleased  than 
surprised.  There  is  no  difficulty  in  starting  new  and  improved  varieties.  The  difficulty  is  in 
getting  their  character  so  well  established  that  the  seed  will  be  reliable,  that  is  pretty  sure  to  pro- 
duce a  good  portion  of  flowers  like  the  one  from  which  the  seed  was  saved. 

POPPY,  (Papaver,)  Nat.  Ord.  Papaveracece. 
The  Poppies  are  not  only  well  known  to  every  cultivator  of  flowers,  but  to  almost  every  one, 

and  yet  few  know  a  real  good  Poppy.      There  are  some  very  fine  perennials,  which  we  shall 

mention  when  describing  plants  that  do  not  flower 
the  first  season  from  the  seed.  The  good  annual 
varieties  are  numerous,  ranging  in  size  from  the 
little  Ranunculus-flowered,  an  inch  in  diameter,  to 
the  Paeony-flowered,  four  or  five  inches  across. 
They  also  present  an  almost  endless  variety  of 
colors  and  markings.  The  true  Opium  Poppy,  the 
variety  used  for  growing  Opium,  is  a  large,  white, 
single  flower.  The  Poppy  has  a  strong  tap-root, 
and  is,  therefore,  difficult  to  transplant,  and  it  is 

better  to  sow  the  seed  early  in  the  spring  where  the  plants  are  to  flower.       The  Poppies  are  all 

perfectly  hardy. 

83 


PORTULACA,  Nat.  Ord.  Portulac 

The  Portulaca  is  a  popular,  hardy,  creeping  annual,  each  strong  plant  covering  a  space  about 

a  foot  in  diameter,  with  salver-shaped  flowers,  of  every  color  imaginable,  except  blue,  and  striped, 

and  these  colors  of  the  most  intense 

brightness.     The  Portulaca  delights 

in  a  warm  sun   and  a  sandy  soil, 

and  the  drouth  is  never  too   long 

nor  the  heat   too  intense  for  this 

beautiful  little  salamander.     When 

everything    else    is    perishing    for 

lack  of  moisture,  the  Portulaca  will 

give  its  largest  flowers  and  bright- 
est colors.  We  well  recollect 
when  the  Portulaca  gave  us  but  very  few  colors,  and  a  double  flower  would  have  been  a  wonder- 
Now  we  have  all  the  colors  that  heart  can  desire,  and  flowers  as  double  as  roses  and  almost 
as  large.  The  Portulaca  does  v  ground  early,  or  under  glass.  The 

not  like  a  clay  soil  nor  black  muck.  (JL.  -^jjfc  Jf&s&JFfSf  plants  can  be  transplanted  even  in 
It  makes  a  brilliant  bed  on  the  ^^a^CfuK^^^^  ^u^  fl°wer>  ancl  m  making  a  ribbon 
lawn,  but  as  the  plants  are  low  it  ^&%3Hffijfflil&$f<^$  1Jcfl  u  'l^  Portulaca,  we  always 
is  best  to  raise  the  bed  in  the  cen-  jflBBBBEaBBBliiial  wait  until  the  first  flower  opens,  so 
ter.  Sow  the  seed  in  the  open  ^^B^ffFfSfflno^Mfc:-:-  as  to  be  entirely  sure  of  the  colors. 
Only  one  possible  objection  can  be  made  to  the  Portulaca,  and  that  is  that  its  flowers  are  fully 
open  only  in  sunshine ;  like  the  sun-dial,  it  counts  only  the  bright  hours.  The  perfectly  double 
Portulaca  forms  no  seed,  so  that  seed  must  be  saved  from  semi-double  flowers ;  and  from  fifty  to 
seventy-five  per  cent,  of  plants  from  this  seed  will  give  double  flowers. 

RICINUS,  (Castor  Oil  Bean,)  Nat.  Ord.  Eufhorbiacece. 

ICINUS.  Plants  with  very  ornamental  foliage  and  showy  fruit,  of 
stately  growth  and  quite  a  tropical  nppearance.  With  other 
onamental  -leaved 
plants,  they  make 
most  attractive 
bed  on  the  lawn, 
and  are  also  desir- 
able when  grown 
as  single  speci- 
mens. Plant  the 
i  seed  in  the  open 
\  ground,  in  a  dry 

situation,  and  as  early  as  safe  in  the  spring.  The 
same  soil  and  treatment  that  will  give  good  early 
corn  is  just  suitable  for  the  Ricinus. 
In  the  latter  part  of  the  summer  the 
splendid  spikes,  composed  of  the 
seed-vessels,  will  be  quite  gorgeous. 
Some  of  the  varieties  have  spikes 
of  a  beautiful  metallic  green,  oth- 
ers of  a  fine,  almost  transparent 
pink  and  scarlet,  which  seem  to 
illuminate  the  grounds.  There  is 
no  ornamental-leaved  plant  for  out- 
door decoration  for  ordinary  use 

equal  to  the  Ricinus.  For  a  clump  or  bed,  the  Ricinus  should  be  planted  about 
three  feet  apart.  For  a  screen,  and  nothing  is  better  fitted  for  such  a  purpose, 
about  two  feet  apart.  Plants  range  from  five  to  ten  feet  in  height,  except  a  dwarf  variety,  which, 
seldom  exceeds  three  feet. 

84 


SALPIGLOSSIS,  Nat.  Ord.  Scrophulariacece. 

ALPIGLOSSIS  is  a  very  good  half-hardy  annual,  with  flowers  of  peculiar 
richness,  and  very  delicately  and  beautifully  pencilled.  Indeed,  the 
delicate,  yet  almost  gorgeous  markings,  are  a 
matter  of  surprise  to  many  who  grow  this 
flower  for  the  first  time,  and  do  not  expect  so 
much  in  so  small,  and  apparently  simple,  a 
flower.  The  ordinary  height  is  about  two 
feet,  but  there  is  a  dwarf  kind  that  grows  only 
about  one  foot  in  height.  When  the  plants 
are  set  pretty  closely  together,  say  about  eight 
or  ten  inches,  they  make  a  very  fine  bed. 
Seeds  may  be  sown  under  glass,  but  they  will  do  well  in  the  open  ground,  especially  if  the  soil  is 
light,  and  always  do  best  in  a  sandy  soil.  The  flower  shown  is  about  one-half  natural  size. 

SALVIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Labiatce. 

Very  ornamental  plants  for  beds  or  borders,  growing  freely  in  any  light,  rich  soil;  from 
eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  in  height.  Their  beautiful  spikes  of  gay  flowers  are  produced  in 
the  greatest  profusion.  Must  be  treated  as  tender  annuals, 
and  plants  should  get  a  good  start  in 
the  hot-bed,  and  not  be  planted  out 
before  the  weather  is  warm.  Very 
little  success  must  be  expected  from 
sowing  seed  in  the  open  ground, 
unless  in  a  very  favorable  climate. 
They  make  fine  fall  and  winter  orna- 
ments for  the  house  or  conservatory, 
and  grow  from  two  to  three  feet  in  height.  The  variety  known  as  S.  splendens  is  the  beautiful 
autumn  flower  known  as  Scarlet  Sage.  Plants  that  are  in  a  thrifty  condition  can  be  taken  up  in 
the  autumn,  before  frost,  and  potted,  and  they  will  bloom  well  into  the  winter. 

SANVITALIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Composites. 

Sanvitalia  procumbens  flore-pleno  is  a  pretty,  low,  or  creeping,  plant,  especially  suited  for 
baskets,  and  bearing  a  great  many  double,  daisy-like  flowers,  of  a  bright  yellow  color.  It  was 
introduced  some  six  years  since,  and  we  felt  very  much  disappointed 
with  it,  because  more  than  half  the  flowers  were  only  semi-double,  and 
with  a  very  poor  black  center,  but  for  a 
year  or  two  there  has  been  considerable 
improvement.  Seeds  germinate  quite  freely. 
We  sow  generally  under  glass.  A  good 
plant  will  cover  a  space  more  than  two  feet 
in  diameter,  and  will  flower  from  July,  if 
sown  pretty  early,  until  killed  by  frost. 
The  foliage  is  clean,  abundant,  of  a  fresh,  lively  green,  and  the  habit  of  the  plant  good  in 
all  respects,  making  it  a  desirable  drooping  plant,  one  that  will  give  general  satisfaction. 

SAPONARIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Caryopkyllacea. 

The  Saponarias  are  little,  low,  delicate  plants,  growing  a  mass  of  little  leaves  and  miniature 
flowers,  the  latter  just  about  the  size  shown  in  the  engraving.  For  a  small  pot,  or  edging,  there 
are  few  little  things  prettier,  for  they  entirely 
cover  the  ground  with  their  bright  little 
leaves  and  star-like  flowers.  There  are  two 
varieties  desirable,  a  deep  pink  and  a  white. 
Setting  alternate  plants  of  white  and  pink 
produces  a  very  nice  effect  in  a  border. 
We  once  saw  a  very  pretty,  small,  circular 
bed  filled  with  Saponaria,  a  row  of  each  color;  but  it  is  only  suited  for  small  beds,  alone;  as 
a  border  or  edging  for  beds  filled  with  stronger  plants,  it  is  very  desirable. 

85 


SCABIOSA,  (Mourning  Bride,)  Nat.  Ord.  Dipsacea. 

The  Scabiosa,  called  all-the-world-over,  Mourning  Bride  and  Mournful  Widow,  has  been 
so  long  a   popular   garden   flower  that  nobody  knows  where  it  was  discovered  or  when  first 

cultivated.  We  don't  know  that  we  can  call  it  a  very 
beautiful  flower,  and  yet  it  is  an  old  friend,  and  we  like 
it,  and  it  gives  a  great  variety  of  colors,  from  white 
almost  to  black,  and  it  grows  freely  and  healthily,  and 
we  always  grow 
it,  and  always 
intend  to;  and 
it  cuts  beautiful- 
ly for  large  bou- 
quets, and  is  an 
excellent  flower 
every  way.  The 
tallest  varieties 
grow  eighteen 

inches  in  height,  the  flowers  being  supported  on  long, 
wiry  stems.  The  dwarf  sorts  are  about  a  foot  in  height. 
Seed  may  be  grown  in  the  garden  or 
under  glass.  Plants,  if  thrifty  in  the 
autumn,  not  weakened  by  over-flow- 
ering, often  flower  the  second  season.  A  variety,  S.  stellata,  bears  curious 
seed-pods,  shown  in  the  engraving  at  the  right,  and  these  dried,  work  up  well 
with  Everlastings.  Indeed,  they  look  much  like  dried  flowers,  besides  being 
very  singular.  There  is  also  a  double  variety,  so  called,  the  plant  being  dwarf 
in  habit,  and  the  flower  smaller  and  more  compact  than  the  old  sorts.  It  is 
a  neat  variety  and  better  for  bouquets  than  the  old  kinds.  There  is  a  little 
perfume  to  these  flowers,  and  they  are  known  by  the  name  of  Sweet  Scabious. 

SCHIZANTHUS,  Nat.  Ord.  Scrophulariacea. 

An  interesting  and  beautiful  class  of  plants  that  may  be  treated  as  half-hardy  annuals,  but 
that  are  not  often  seen  in  our  gardens,  and  are 
really  better  adapted  for  house  culture.  They 
are  not  exactly  of  a  climbing  habit,  and  yet  are 
so  slender  that  they  need  support,  and  when 
this  is  provided  will  grow  from  two  to  three 
feet  in  height,  and  bear  hundreds  of  pretty 
two-colored  flowers,  looking  like  little  butter- 
flies. Winds,  rain  and  the  hot  sun  often 
injure  plants  in  the  garden.  The  seed  should  be 
sown  under  glass,  if  possible.  A  really  beau- 
tiful flower  for  the  house.  The  name  signifies  cut  flower,  and  it  is  really  interesting  and  good. 

SENSITIVE    PLANT,   (Mimosa,)  Nat.  Orel.  Lcguminoscz. 

The  Mimosa  pudica,  called  Sensitive  Plant  from  the  singularly  sensitive  nature  of  the  leaves, 
is  really  a  pretty  plant,  but  its  chief  merit  is  in  the  amusement  it  pro- 
vides the  children,  and  in  fact,  everybody.  No  one  seems  to  get  tired  of 
observing  the  habits  of  this  plant.  When  a  leaf  is  touched  it  immedi- 
ately begins  slowly  to  close,  and  if  touched  near  the  base  of  the  leaf- 
stalk, not  only  will  the  leaflets  close  up  but  the  leaf-stalk  droop  as  if 
broken.  Start  the  seed  under  glass,  and  do  not  transplant  to  the  open 
ground  until  the  weather  is  warm.  A  plant  or  two  reserved  for  the 
house  will  afford  a  good  deal  of  pleasure  during  the  winter.  A  very 
good  way  is  to  start  a  young  plant  in  a  pot  :n  the  spring  at  transplanting 
time,  and  sink  the  pot  in  the  earth  to  the  rim.  Before  the  nights  get 
cool  in  the  autumn,  remove  the  pot  to  the  house,  first  re-potting  into  a  larger  pot,  if  necessary. 

86 


SPRAGUEA,   Nat.  Orel.  Portulacacea:. 

The  Spraguea  umhellata  is  a  really  pretty  plant,  and  as  curious  as  it  is  beautiful.  The 
leaves  are  rounded,  somewhat  succulent,  and  arranged  in  a  crown-like  cluster,  as  shown  in  the 
engraving.  The  flowers  form  dense  umbels,  on  leafless  flower  stems,  six 
inches  or  more  in  length.  The  blossoms  are  pink,  and  though  not  an 
everlasting  flower,  with  a  very  little  drying 
will  equal  the  best  for  winter  use.  The 
Spraguea  is  a  native  of  California,  but  we 
.-aw  it  there  only  in  one  place,  within  reach 
of  the  spray  of  the  Nevada  Falls,  and  there 
it  grew  most  luxuriously,  and  when  we 
informed  the  ladies  that  these  flowers  were 
everlastings  and  would  keep  for  years,  every  one  appropriated  a  good  bunch  as  a  memento  of  the 
Yosemite  and  Nevada  Falls.  Sow  the  seed  under  glass  or  in  a  sheltered  bed  in  the  garden. 

STOCK,  TEN -"WEEKS,  (Mathiola  annua,)  Nat.  Ord.  Crudferce. 
The  Ten-Weeks  or  Annual  Stock  presents  nearly  or  quite  all  the  requisites  of  a  perfect  flow- 
ering plant — good  habit,  fine  foliage,  beautiful  flowers  of  almost  every  delicate  and  desirable  tint, 
delightful    fragrance,  early  flowering,    and 
abundance  of  blossoms.      Although  not  a 
constant  bloomer  like  Phlox,  Petunia,  etc., 
the  flowers  endure  for  a  long  time,  and  the 
side  shoots    give    a    succession    of  flowers 
under  favorable  circumstances  for  months. 
Indeed,  the    growth   and    flowering  seems 
almost  perpetual,  where  the  plant  can  ob- 
tain a  needed  supply  of  moisture.     Cool, 

dewy  nights  and  moist  days  are  the  delight  of  the  stock.  The 
best  seeds  of  this  flower  are  grown  by  German  florists,  in  pots,  on 
stages,  in  open  houses,  the 
object  being  to  protect  the 
plants  from  rains  and  dews, 
and  severe  winds.  The  double 
flowers  give  no  seeds,  but  by 
crowding  several  plants  into 
small  pots,  thus  starving  them, 
and  by  other  operations  known 
to  skillful  flower  seed  growers, 
seeds  are  produced  that  will 
grow  plants  with  double  flow- 
ers. Three  -  fourths  of  the 

plants  raised  from  the  best  seeds  will  usually  produce 
double  blossoms.  Seeds  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground, 
or  in  the  hot-bed  or  cold-frame ;  but  if  transplanted,  let  this  be  done  when  the  plants  are 
quite  small,  just  out  of  the  seed-leaf.  They  should  be  removed  from  the  seed-bed  before  they 
become  "  drawn,"  or  slender,  or  the  flowers  will  be  poor.  Make  the  soil  deep  and  rich.  Set 
the  plants  about  twelve  inches  apart.  If  the  plants  that  are  not  too  far  advanced  are  taken 
up  carefully  in  the  autumn,  and  potted,  they  will  flower  elegantly  in  the  house  in  the  winter. 
It  is  a  good  plan  to  sow  a  few  late  in  the  season  for  this  purpose.  After  growing  in  the  house 
they  can  be  put  out  in  the  ground,  and  will  generally  flower  well  the  second  season. 


Flowers  of  all  the  different 


TROPvEOLUM,  Nat.  Ord.  Troptzolacece. 

ROP./EOLUM.  A  very  splendid  class  of  half-hardy  annuals,  gen- 
erally known  as  the  Nasturtium. 
( shades  of  yellow,  orange  and 
red.  This  flower  has  of  late 
been  much  improved,  the 
blossoms  being  larger  and 
more  brilliant  than  the  old- 
fashioned  sorts.  The  varieties 
of  T.  majus  and  T.  Lobbianum 
(hybridum,}  will  be  found  de- 
scribed among  the  Climbers ; 
but  when  allowed  to  run  on 
the  ground,  and  pegged  down, 

they  make  a  brilliant  bed.        T.  minus   and  its  varieties  are 

dwarf,  round-headed  plants,  about  a  foot  high,  and  in  Europe 

are  very  popular,  and  make  very  fine  beds.       Indeed,  on  the  Dwarf  Tropseolums,  among  the 

annuals,  the  gardeners  of  England  almost  entirely  depend  for  a  mass  of  brilliant  colors,  while  the 

Clarkia  furnishes  masses  of  the  more  delicate  shades. 

VERBENA,  Nat.  Ord.   Verbenacetz. 

ERBENA.  Every  one  knows  the  Verbena,  and  almost  every  one  has 
bought  the  little,  sickly  plants,  in  small  pots,  with  one  little  tuft  of 
flowers,  but  every  one 
does  not  know  that 
good,  healthy  plants 
can  be  produced  from 
seed  as  readily  as  al- 
most any  tender  an- 
nual, plants  that  will 
perfectly  cover  a  space 


three  feet  in  diameter,  flower  well  in  July,  and 
continue  strong  and  healthy  until  destroyed  by 
frost.  Another  strange  fact  not  generally  known, 
is  that  nearly  all  Verbenas  raised  from  seed  are 
fragrant,  the  light  colored  varieties  particularly  so. 
Sow  the  seeds  under  glass  early  in  the  spring, 
and  transplant  after  three  or  four  inches  of  growth. 
There  is  a  variety,  a  native  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  with  pink  flowers,  so  hardy  that  it  will  gen- 
erally endure  our  winters  and  flower  the  second  season. 

VINCA,  Nat.  Ord.  Apocynacece. 

A  genus  of  beautiful  green-house  perennials,  that  may  be  treated  as  tender  annuals  for  the 
garden.     If  sown  under  glass,  and  strong  plants  are  set  out  early,  in  a  warm  situation,  they  will 
_  flower  beautifully  in  the  summer  and  autumn,  and  may  be 

<\  ^&$-  ^      potted  for  the  house  before  frost.     Not  suitable  for  out- 

door sowing,  in  northern  latitudes.  In  the  Southern 
States  the  Vinca  does  admirably,  growing  almost  like 
a  weed.  There  are  several  varieties,  rose-colored,  white, 
and  white  with  red  eye.  The  engraving  shows  the 
flower  about  one-half  the  natural  size.  The  leaf  is  a 
beautiful  dark  green,  thick,  smooth  and  shining,  some- 
what like  the  Laurel  or  Camellia.  A  well  grown  plant 
will  be  about  eighteen  inches  in  height.  We  write  this  in 
the  garden,  with  a  bed  of  Vincas  before  us,  and  it  is  difficult  to  moderate  our  praise. 

88 


WHITLAVIA,  Nat.  Ord.  HydropkyUaceas. 

HITLAVIA.  The  Whitlavia  is  a  pretty  little  California  annual,  with 
delicate  foliage  and  drooping  clusters  of  beautiful  bells,  of  the 
"  size  of  the  engraving,  blue  and  white.  The 
plants  are  perfectly  hardy,  proof  against  cold 
and  wet,  but  suffer  often  in  dry,  hot  weather, 
like  Nemophila  and  many  other  California 
annuals.  For  a  shady  spot  there  are  very  few 
little  flowers  that  will  give  more  real  pleasure. 
The  flowering  branches,  if  cut  while  the 
lower  buds  are  about  opening,  will  continue 
fresh  in  water  for  several  days,  every  bud  opening,  and  are  elegant  for  a  small,  slender  vase. 

ZINNIA.   NEW   DOUBLE-FLOWERED,  Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 

INNIAS  must  be  familiar  to  all  our  aged  readers,  for  as  far  back  as  we 

can  recollect,  the  old  single  variety  was  grown  under  the  name  of 

Youth  and   Old  Age   in   almost 

every  garden.  The  Double  Zin- 
nia we  may  call  a  new  flower, 

for  it  has  been  introduced  but  a 

few  years,  and  has  found  itself  so 

well  adapted  to  our  climate  that 

the  double  Zinnias   in   America 

seem  a  different  and  better  flower 
1  than  the  Zinnias  we  see  growing 
[in  Europe.  The  plant  usually 

grows  two  feet  in  height,  at  least 

seventy-five  per  cent,  give  flowers  almost  as  beautiful  and 
quite  as  double  as  the  Dahlia.  A  plant  that  commences  flow- 
ering in  June  will  grow  larger  and  handsomer,  and  the  flowers 
better  every  day  until  destroyed  by  frost.  Tie  a  string  around 
the  stem  of  a  flower,  or  mark  one  in  any  other  way,  and  that  flower  will  be  found  perfect  in  six 


weeks  from  the  time 
it  was  marked. 
Having  taken  par- 
ticular pains  in  im- 
proving the  Zinnia, 
I  think  my  strain  is 
excellent  ;  indeed, 
my  Zinnias  have 
been  pronounced 
by  florists  from 
England,  France 
and  Germany  the 
best  in  the  world. 
Seed  will  do  well 
sown  under  glass, 
but  must  not  have 
much  heat,  and 
plenty  of  air.  Seed 
will,  however,  grow 
well  in  a  bed  in 
the  garden,  and 
transplant  as  safely 


as  a  Cabbage  plant, 
and  this  should  be 
done  as  early  as 
possible,  and  when 
the  plants  are 
small ;  cold,  rough 
weather  will  do 
them  good.  The 
plants  begin  to 
blossom  when  quite 
young,  and  the  first 
flower  is  not  usual 
ly  good.  Set  them 
about  eighteen 
inches  apart.  — 
The  largest  flowers 
are  sometimes 

nearly  six  inches 
across.  The  Zin- 
nias are  coarse 
plants,  and  we  do 
not  suppose  every 

one  will  be  pleased  with  them,  but  we  must  remember  that  there  are  always  places  in  the  gar- 
den waere  large,  and  even  coarse,  plants  look  well,  and  those  that  are  more  delicate  are  useless. 

89 


V 


THE  CLIMBERS  furnish  us  with  nature's  drapery,  and  nothing  produced  by  art  can  equal  their 
elegant  grace.  As  the  Lilies  surpass  in  beauty  all  that  wealth  or  power  can  procure,  or  man  pro- 
duce, so  these  tender  Climbers  surpass  all  the  productions  of  the  decorator's  skill.  They  are 
entirely  under  the  control  of  the  skillful  gardener  and  tasteful  amateur,  and  under  their  guiding 
hands  make  the  unsightly  building  or  stump  bloom  with  beauty.  The  strong  growing  varieties 
can  be  made,  in  a  short  time,  to  cover  fences,  arbors  and  buildings,  and  give  both  grace  and 
shade.  Those  of  more  delicate  growth  are  invaluable  for  pots,  baskets,  and  other  decorative 
purposes. 

The  Climbing  Plants  are  nearly  all  well  adapted  for  culture  in  vases,  and  are  particularly 
well  fitted  for  baskets  and  the  decoration  of  balconies,  &c.  No  hanging  basket  can  look  well 
unless  furnished  with  graceful  trailing  plants,  which  not  only  have  great  beauty  in  themselves, 
but  throw  a  mantle  of  beauty,  if  not  of  charity,  over  everything  unsightly  about  the  basket  or 
its  filling.  Several  Climbers  will  be  found  among  the  Perennials,  but,  of  course,  all  the  varieties 
described  in  this  Department  flower  the  first  season.  Some  of  our  annual  Climbers  are  natives 
of  tropical  countries,  and  while  they  do  well  in  the  garden,  with  a  little  care,  are  really  better  for 
house  culture  and  for  baskets,  verandahs,  etc. 

GALAMPELIS,  Nat.  Ord.  Bignoniacea. 

Calampelis  scabra,  or  perhaps  more  properly  Eccremocaqjus  scaber  is  a  very  excellent 
climber,  with  neat  foliage,  and  bright  orange  flowers  borne  in  racemes,  and  blooms  profusely  the 
latter  part  of  the  season.  The  seeds  are  made  to  vegetate  with 
some  difficulty,  and  should  be  grown  in  a  hot-bed  or  green-house. 
Good,  strong  plants  should  be  grown  before  setting  them  in  the 
garden,  and  it  is  not  best  to  trust  the  plants  in  the  open  ground  in 
a  climate  like  most  of  the  Middle  and  Northern  States  until  the 
first  of  June.  The  Calampelis,  however,  is  well  suited  to  house 
culture,  where  it  will  always  give  good  satisfaction  and  prove 
valuable ;  but  being  a  native  of  Chili,  will  not  endure  the  changes 
and  harshness  of  a  Northern  climate,  even  in  the  summer,  except 
under  favorable  circumstances.  As,  however,  it  is  not  common, 
and  very  pretty,  the  Calampelis  well  pays  for  a  little  extra  care  on  the  part  of  the  tasteful  florist. 

CARDIOSPERMUM,  Nat.  Ord.  Sapindacea:. 

Cardiospennum  Halicacabum  is  a  curious,  half-hardy  annual,  from  India,  we  believe,  though 
some  of  the  species  are  found  in  almost  all  tropical  countries.  It 
is  called  Ballooon  Vine,  and  Love  in  a  Puff,  on  account  of  the 
inflated  seed-capsule  seen  in  the  engraving.  In  some  countries 
the  leaves  are  cooked  and  eaten,  and  in  others  the  plant  is  supposed 
to  contain  very  great  medicinal  properties.  With  us  it  is  only  val- 
uable as  a  good  summer  climber,  and  really  more  curious  than 
beautiful.  Sow  seed  under  glass,  and  if  planted  in  the  garden,  find 
it  a  sheltered  situation.  Like  many  southern  climbers,  it  needs 
favoring  in  the  garden,  but  gives  a  good  account  of  itself  in  the  house. 

90 


COBCEA,  Nat.  Ord.  Polemoniacete. 
The  Cobea  scandens  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  our  climbing  annuals,  on  account  of  its 

large  size,  rapid  growth,  fine  foliage,  and  large,  bell-shaped  flowers,  about  an  inch  and  a  half 

across  and  two  inches  in  length.  When  strong  plants  are 
set  out  early  in  the  spring,  and  in  a  good  soil,  they  often 
grow  twenty  or  thirty  feet  in  length,  branching  freely,  and 
covering  a  large  surface.  Plants  commence  to  flower  when 
quite  young  and  continue  in  bloom  until  removed  or  killed 
by  frost.  In  the  autumn,  plants  can  be  taken  up  with  care, 
potted,  and  removed  to  the  house  where  they  will  flourish 
and  flower  during  the  winter.  The  flowers  are  at  first  green, 
but  gradually  change  to  a  deep,  violet  blue.  The  seed 
requires  some  care  in  starting,  and  much  success  is  not  to  be 
anticipated  in  sowing  the  seed  in  the  garden.  Put  the  seeds 
in  moist  earth,  edge  down,  and  do  not  water  until  the  young 
plants  appear  above  the  surface,  unless  the  pots  are  in  a 
warm  place  and  the  earth  becomes  exceedingly  dry.  Cobceas 

set  in  a  row,  two  feet  apart,  supported  by  brush  six  feet  high,  make  an  elegant  screen. 

CONVOLVULUS,  Nat.  Ord.  Convolvulacea. 

Convolvulus  major,  the  old  Morning  Glory,  is  the  best  known  and  most  popular,  and  all 
things  considered,  we  are  almost  prepared  to  say  the  best  annual  climber  we  possess.  The  seeds 
germinate  so  readily  that  they  can  be  grown  in  the  garden 
in  any  corner  where  the  plants  are  needed,  and  almost  at 
any  time.  The  flowers  we  need  tell  no  one  are  beautiful, 
and  of  a  great  variety  of  colors.  Their  growth  is  so  rapid 
that  they  cover  an  arbor  or  trellis  in  a  very  short  time, 
though  it  is  important  that  support  should  be  supplied  as 
soon  as  the  young  plants  show  a  disposition  to  run,  for  if 
this  is  neglected  too  long  they  willl  not  readily  attach 
themselves.  The  only  fault  that  can  be  urged  against  the 
Convolvulus  is  the  fact  that  its  flowers  are  open  only  in  the  < 
early  part  of  the  day,  the  brightest  about  sunrise,  but  a  sight 
of  a  good  "  patch  "  of  these  flowers  in  the  "  dewy  morn  "  is 
a  feast  for  a  whole  day,  and  quite  enough  to  tempt  any  lover 
of  the  beautiful  to  rise  early  to  see  and  enjoy  their  glory. 
Indeed,  we  have  known  several  fits  of  early  rising  induced 
by  the  beauty  of  the  Morning  Glory,  and  yet,  we  are  glad  to  say,  without  serious  results. 

DOLICHOS,  Nat.  Ord.  Leguminosee. 

Very  beautiful  climbing  plants,  resembling  the  running  bean,  but  the  flowers  are  more  beanti- 
ful,  as  the  common  name  (Hyacinth  Bean)  indicates.     The  seed-pods  are  as  pretty  as  the  flowers, 

being,  in  the  purple-flowered  variety,  a  beautiful  purple, 
shining  as  though  freshly  varnished.  The  large  varieties 
grow  from  six  to  twenty  feet  in  height,  but  the  growth 
upward  may  be  checked  by  pinching  off  the  tops.  Plant 
the  seeds  in  the  garden  where  the  plants  are  desired, 
selecting  as  warm  and  dry  a  spot  as  possible.  Give  just 
the  treatment  required  for  our  more  tender  running  beans, 
like  the  Lima.  Most  of  the  varieties  are  eaten  in  some 
parts  of  Europe.  A  dwarf  white  variety  grows  only 
about  four  or  five  feet  in  height.  The  Dolichos  is  not 
only  the  prettiest  of  our  bean-like  climbers,  but  is 
one  of  the  ornamental  species  that  not  only  flourishes  in 
the  hot  weather  of  summer,  but  rejoices  in  heat,  drouth  and  a  warm,  sandy  soil.  This  makes 
it  particularly  valuable  to  Americans,  as  our  flowering  beans  usually  suffer  in  a  dry  time. 

91 


GOURDS   AND    CUCUMBERS,  (ORNAMENTAL,)  Nat.  Ord.  Cucurbitacece. 

The  Gourds  are  a  coarse  class  of  plants,  liked  principally  on  account  of  their  curiously  fonned 
and  often  strangely  colored  fruits.     The  foliage,  however,  is  abundant,  the  leaves  generally  large, 

and  useful  for  cover- 
ing old  trees,  fences, 
arbors,  etc.  The  cul- 
ture is  the  same  as 
\j  required  for  squashes, 
melons,  etc.  Some 
people  are  curious 
-.  in  collecting  and 
growing  all  the  odd 
formed  and  colored 
Gourds  they  can  pro- 
cure, and  in  Europe 
we  saw  some  very 
large  and  varied  col- 
lections. This,  how- 
ever, is  a  "hobby" 

we  do  not  much  admire,  for  we  can  get  more  real  beauty  with  far  less  trouble.      However,  we 
garden  for  pleasure,  and  if  it  is  obtained  in  this  way,  we  certainly  shall  not  complain. 

IPOMCEA,   Nat.  Ord.  Convolvulacea. 

Under  the  name  of  Convolvulus  we  have  described  the  Morning  Glory,  which  is  by  some 
called  Ipomcea  purpurea ;  but  the  Ipomceas  proper  are  a  genus  of  very  beautiful  Convolvulacese, 
widely  distributed  over  all  warm  climates,  and  a  few 
extending  into  North  America.  Some  of  the  varieties 
of  Ipomcea  are  exceedingly  large  and  fine,  excelling  even 
the  best  Convolvulus.  Others,  like  the  Cypress  Vine, 
which  we  show  in  the  engraving,  have  small  flowers, 
of  the  brightest  colors,  and  the  most  delicate  foliage 
imaginable.  The  Ipomcea  is  generally  more  delicate  than 
the  Convolvulus,  and  should  be  classed  among  the  ten- 
der annuals,  and  therefore  will  succeed  best  if  started  in 
the  hot-bed,  and  afterwards  planted  in  a  sheltered  and 
warm  situation.  The  Ipomceas  are  all  desirable  for  pots, 
baskets,  etc.,  for  the  house.  For  hanging  baskets  and  green-house  decoration,  the  Ipomceas  hold 
a  prominent  place,  and  will  well  repay  for  any  extra  care  they  may  require. 

LOASA,  Nat.  Ord.  Loasacece. 

The  Loasa  is  a  good  climber,  with  curious,  handsome  flowers,  which  it  bears  in  great  abun- 
dance. The  flowers  are  of  the  size  shown 
in  the  engraving,  bright  in  color,  being  yel- 
low and  red.  The  branches  are  covered 
with  stinging  hairs  that  give  pain  when 
touched,  so  that  a  good  deal  of  care  must  be 
exercised  when  handling  the  plants.  The 
Loasa  is  a  native  of  Chili  and  Peru,  and 
though  seldom  seen  in  American  gardens, 
is  quite  commonly  found  in  some  sections 
of  Europe.  A  plant  or  two  will  give  a 
good  deal  of  pleasure  for  a  season  or  so, 
until  one  becomes  familiar  with  it,  and  we 
have  known  several  important  lessons 
•  taught  by  the  Loasa,  to  thoughtless  people 
who  are  so  apt  to  handle  and  pick  flowers  in  other  people's  gardens ;  a  veiy  thoughtless  practice. 

92 


MAURANDYA,  Nat.  Ord.  Scrophulariacea. 
The    Maurandya  is   a  graceful,  rather  delicate  climber  from  Mexico,  bearing  flowers  yery 

much  resembling  the  Antirrhinum,  the  principal  difference  being  in  the  mouth.     The  Maurandya 

is  almost  too  delicate  for  out-door  culture  in  the  Northern  and 
Middle  States,  but  does  remarkably  well  for  baskets,  vases, 
etc.,  in  sheltered  positions.  Plants  should  be  grown  in  the 
hot-bed  or  green-house,  and  if  designed  for  the  garden,  should 
not  be  put  out  until  the  weather  is  quite  warm ;  late  in  the 
spring  or  early  summer.  Few  climbers  do  better  for  green- 
house culture.  Growth  of  plant,  five  or  six  feet,  and  the  foli- 
age abundant,  a  very  desirable  trait  in  a  climbing  plant,  as 
half  the  beauty,  at  least,  of  a  climbing  plant  is  its  foliage.  The 
flowers  of  the  Maurandya,  however,  are  of  good  size  and  form 
and  color,  being  about  the  size  and  appearance  of  Digitalis  or 
Antirrhinum,  and  the  colors  different  shades  of  blue,  white 

and  mauve,  and  the  whole  plant  pleasant  to  look  upon. 

PEAS,    FLOWERING,   (Lathyrus,)  Nat.  Ord.  LeguminostB. 
The  Flowering  Peas  are  among  the  most  useful  and  beautiful   of  all   our  hardy  annuals. 

Nothing  can  be  better  for  large  bouquets,  as  the  flowers  are  lively  and  delicate,  varying  in  color 

from  white  to  the  darkest  purple  imaginable,  and 

including  the  most  lively  pinks  ;  and  as  fragrant  as 

Mignonette.       For    a   hedge    or    screen,    or   little 

groups    supported   by  common    brush,  the    Sweet 

Pea  is  not  excelled.     If  the  soil  is  rich  they  will 

grow  five  feet  in  height,  and  continue  to  flower  all 

the  summer  unless  the  season  is  too  hot  and  dry. 

The  Pea  luxuriates  in  a  cool,  moist  soil,  and  in  a 

damp  season.     Cut  the  flowers  freely  and  do  not 

allow  seeds  to  form  except  on  a  few  plants  which 

are  designed  for  seed-bearing.      Sow  the  seed  four 

inches  deep,  and  as  early  in  the  spring  as  possible. 

Don't   wait    for    fair   weather.       Hoe    the    earth 

towards  the  plants  a  little,  as  for  common  garden 

peas,  but  do  not  form  a  ridge,  and-  furnish  support 

early.      Use  plenty  of  seed,  so  that  they  will  not  be 

further  than  an  inch  apart.     The  engraving  shows 

flowers  of  about  the  natural  size.     I  am  anxious  to 

encourage  the  culture  of  this  sweet  flower.     There 

are  several  varieties  called  winged,  on  account  of  a  wing-like  attachment  to  the  seed-pod.     They 

are  not  really  climbers,  but  creepers ;  the  flowers  are  small,  and  they  are  hardly  worth  cultivating. 

THUNBERGIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Acanthacea. 
The  Thunbergias  are  good    annual  climbers  for  the  garden,  but  very  much  better  for  the 

house  and  conservator)',  where  they  grow  well  and  flower  beautifully.     They  need  support,  like 

all  the  climbers,  but  we  have  seen  them  do  well  when 
allowed  to  run  over  the  ground,  making  a  very  pretty 
bed.  For  baskets  and  similar  purposes,  the  Thunbergia 
should  be  more  generally  used,  as  it  is  far  superior  to 
a  score  of  weedy  plants  that  seem,  strangly,  to  have  been 
adopted  for  this  work.  The  Thunbergia  starts  rather 
slowly  at  first,  but  when  it  begins  to  run  makes  a  rapid 
growth.  The  engraving  shows  the  flowers  of  natural 
size,  but  they  form  usually  more  in  clusters.  The  seed 

requires  conservatory  or  hot-bed  treatment,  but  plants    are  grown  easily  from  cuttings.      The 

flowers  are  white,  buff,  or  orange,  generally  with  a  dark  eye. 

93 


TROP^EOLUM,  Nat.  Ord.  Tropceolacete. 

Tropseolum  majus  is  a  fine  climber,  growing  ten  or  twelve  feet  in  height,  comprising  sev- 
eral varieties,  differing  in  the  color  of  both  flower  and  foliage.     In  some  the  leaves  are  a  bright, 

lively  green,  in  others  very 

dark.      The  flowers  are  of 

all  shades  of  yellow,  scar- 
let,   striped     and    spotted. 

The    engraving    of    trellis 

shows    the    habit    of    the 

plant.    Seed  may  be  planted 

in    the    open     ground,   or 

under    glass.       T.    Lobbi- 

anum  is  very  desirable  for 

the    greenhouse,  and    will 

answer  well  for  a  summer 

climber   when     started    in 

the  house.     T.  peregrinum, 

of  which  we   also  give  an 

engraving,    is     the     popu- 
lar Canary  Flower.      The 

Tropaeolums     grow    freely 

from       cuttings,     and     are 
admirable  for  the  house  in  the  winter.     For  large  baskets  and  vases,  especially  for  hanging  bas- 
kets, they  are  exceedingly  desirable,  drooping  over  the  sides  to  the  ground,  making  a  charming 


and  graceful  dis- 
play of  foliage. 
When  the  branches 
have  become  as 
long  as  desired, 
they  should  be 
pinched  off.  Some 
gardeners  think 
Tropaeolums  are  of 
so  rampant  a 
growth  that  when 
planted  in  baskets 
they  rob  more  deli- 
cate plants  of 
their  share  of  nour- 
ishment, but  we 
have  never  found 
this  a  serious  ob- 
jection, especially 
where  water  was 
given  pretty  freely ; 
and  a  basket  ex- 


posed to  the  air  on 
every  side,  without 
plenty  of  water,  is 
only  a  snare  and  a 
delusion.  If  any 
trouble  of  this  kind 
is  noticed,  pinch 
the  shoots  back 
freely,  and  this  will 
check  the  growth 
of  roots.  It  is  a 
good  thing  to  have 
a  few  vigorous 
plants,  those  whose 
growth  need  check- 
ing instead  of  en- 
couraging, as  an 
abundance  of  foli- 
age is  thus  secured 
beyond  a  contin- 
gency. We  give 
an  engraving  of  the 


Tropaeolum  flower  of  full  natural  size,  and  can  recommend  the  family  as  worthy  a  place  in  any 
garden,  and  an  honorable  position  among  the  choicest  of  our  annual  Climbers. 


94 


THE  EVERLASTING,  or  ETERNAL  FLOWERS,  as  they  are  sometimes  called,  have  of  late 
attracted  a  good  deal  of  attention  in  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  are  becoming  generally  culti- 
vated. The  plants  do  not  appear  very  important  when  the  garden  is  gay  with  scores  of  Flora's 
choicest  gems,  and  are,  therefore,  often  considered  hardly  worth  saving,  and  the  flowers  remain 
ungathered.  In  the  winter,  however,  when  it  is  desirable  to  decorate  church  or  school  room  or 
home,  the  Everlastings  are  a  treasure.  These  flowers  lessen  the  regret  we  all  feel  when  the 
season  of  blossoms  is  over,  because  they  enable  us  to  transfer  a  little  of  summer  beauty  to  the 
parlor.  They  retain  both  form  and  color  for  years,  and  make  excellent  bouquets,  wreaths, 
and  every  other  desirable  winter  ornament.  The  flowers  should  generally  be  picked  as  soon 
as  they  expand,  or  a  little  before,  and  hung  up  in  small  bunches,  and  so  that  the  stems  will  dry 
straight.  If  the  bunches  are  too  large  they  will  mildew.  The  Gomphrenas  must  not  be 
gathered  until  fully  developed.  Those  who  are  familiar  with  the  usual  style  of  winter  deco- 
ration, and  realize  how  gloomy  a  room  is  made  by  the  heavy,  dark  wreaths  of  cedars  and  hem- 
locks, unrelieved  by  a  flower  or  berry,  or  any  bright  color,  will  thank  us  for  urging  them  to 
save  even-  flower  that  will  keep  its  color  during  the  winter.  Make  all  wreaths  light  and  airy, 
and  enliven  them  with  bright  flowers. 

ACROCLINIUM,  Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 

The  Acroclinium  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  everlasting  family.  It  is  of  strong 
growth,  about  eighteen  inches  in  height,  and 
b«ars  a  great  number  of  pink  and  white 
daisy-like  flowers,  with  a  yellow  centre. 
They  should  be  gathered  the  first  day  they 
open,  or  even  before  fully  open,  and  dried. 
If  allowed  to  remain  too  long  on  the  plant, 
the  center  becomes  black  in  drying,  but  if 
gathered  young  they  retain  their  natural 
color.  The  engraving  shows  the  size  of  the 
plant,  and  the  appearance  of  the  flower  when 
fully  expanded.  There  are  two  varieties,  a  bright  pink  and  a  clear  white,  and  both  indispensable. 

AMMOBIUM,  Nat.  Ord-  Composite. 

Ammobium    is    a    small    but    very    pretty    little    flower,    pure   white,    and    therefore    very 

useful  in  making  up.  The  plant, 
which  grows  about  eighteen 
inches,  is  stiff  and  angular  in  ap- 
pearance. This  is  one  of  the 
hardiest  of  the  everlastings.  Some 
florists  use  this  flower  very  liber- 
ally, even  in  the  summer,  in  the 
making  of  small  bouquets.  Like 
the  Acroclinium  and  very  many 
The  bud,  as  shown  in  the  engraving,  is  very  pretty. 
95 


of  our  everlastings,  it  is  a  native  of  Australia. 


GOMPHRENA,  Nat.  Ord.  Amarantacece. 

A  well  known  Everlasting,  sometimes  called  English  Clover. 
Flowers  should  not  be  picked  until  well  matured  and  of  full  size, 
near  the  end  of  summer.  The  seed  of  the 
Gomphrena  does  not  germinate  very  well 
in  the  open  ground,  and  it  is  therefore 
best  to  sow  it  in  a  hot-bed  if  possible.  Set 
i  the  plants  about  a  foot  apart.  About  eight- 
een inches  in  height.  Fine  for  the  garden 

•SPP^UwUI^SiM  Ik  as  we'^  as  ^or  Drying.     Makes  a  good  sum- 
mer hedge.     It  the  cottony  coating  which 
surrounds  it  is  removed,  the  seed  will  be  more  certain  to  grow,  as  in  wet  weather  it  may  cause  rot. 

HELICHRYSUM,  Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 
An  exceedingly  handsome  class,  mostly  large  and  showy  plants, 
of  great  value  for  winter  bouquets  and  other  floral  ornaments, 
flowers  are  large  and  full,  and  of  a  good  variety 
of  colors.       Plants  generally  about  two  feet  in 
height.    Cut  just  before  the  flowers  fully  expand. 
Even   the    buds   are   handsome   and   make   up 
beautifully.    Always  save  a  few  buds  to  use  with 
the  flowers.     Plant   about  a  foot  apart.     Seeds 
germinate   readily,  even   in   the   open  ground. 
The  colors  are,  white,  yellow,  and  red  of  very 
many  brownish  shades.      It  is  the  largest  and 
boldest  and  one  of  the  best  of  the  Everlastings. 

HELIPTERUM,  Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 

Helipterum  Sanfordii  is  one  of  the  prettiest  little  everlast- 
ting  flowers  that  grows,  as  all  will  believe  after  a  look  at  the 
engraving,  and  when  we  inform  them  that  it  is  a  truthful  rep- 
resentation of  a  cluster  of  these   flowers,  of  the  natural   size, 
and  that  they  are  a  deep,  rich,  golden,  shining  yellow.     The 
plant,  which  is  about  a  foot  in  height,  and  branching,  bears  very 
many  of  these  clusters.     They  should  be  taken  when  the  buds 
are  about  opening,  tied  in  bunches  and 
hung   up   in   a   shady   place,   and   the 
flowers  will   open    in   the   drying  pro- 
cess, and   will   retain   their   brightness 
and  color   for  very  many  years.      The 
^*  Helipterum  is  found  wild  in   Australia, 
and  we  believe,  in  sections  of  Africa. 


RHODANTHE,  Nat.  Ord.  Composites. 
The  Rhodanthe  is  one  of  the  prettiest  and  most  delicate  of  the 
Everlastings.     It  has  been  in  cultivation  for  many  years,  and  we 
have  seen  it  in  Europe  in  the  conservato- 
ries, where  it  was  once  much  prized  as  a 
pot  plant,  and  a  good  specimen,  bearing  a 
hundred  of  its   pretty   flowers   is  really  a 
beautiful    object.      The    Rhodanthe   is    a 
native  of  Northern  Australia.     Some  care 
is   necessary    in    starting    the    seeds,   but 
after  good  plants  are  grown  we  never  fail 
to    obtain    flowers    in    abundance.      The 
flowers  should  be  gathered  before  they  fully 
expand,  as  if  allowed  to  grow  too  long,  they  open  too  much  and  lose  their  beautiful  bell  form. 

96 


WAITZIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 

The  Waitzias  are  an  interesting  class  of  annuals,  bearing  their  dry  or  everlasting  flowers  in 
clusters.      The   flowers   are  very  good,  though   showing  too  much  of  the 
centre,  which  becomes  discolored  unless  picked  early.     With  this  precau- 
tion, however,  they  make  a  desirable   addition   to   our 
stock   of  Everlastings.      All   the  varieties  have  yellow 
flowers.      The  seeds  are  very  fine  and  should  be  sown 
under  glass,  or  much  success  is  not  to  be  anticipated. 
Sometimes  when  we  give  such  instructions,  some  people 
are  just  contrary  enough  to  try  to  show  us  we  are  mis- 
taken, and  that  they  can  succeed  in  growing  plants  in  the 
open  air,  and  generally  succeed  because  they  are  deter- 
mined to  do    so;  zeal  and   determination   are  the  ele- 
ments  of   success,   and    the    open    ground    often    fur- 
nishes the  warmth  and  moisture  necessary  to  germinate  the  most  delicate  seeds. 

XERANTHEMUM,  Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 

Xeranthemums  are  free-blooming  annuals  of  a  very  neat,  compact  habit,  and  growing  less 
than  a  foot  in  height. 
The  leaves  are  silvery 
and  flowers  abundant 
on  strong  stems,  and 
are  purple,  blue  and 
white.  There  are  both 
doable  and  single  vari- 
eties, specimens  of 
both  of  which  are 
seen  in  the  engravings. 
Seeds  germinate  freely ;  plants  transplant  well  when  small,  and  should  be  set  about  ten  inches  apart. 

GYPSOPHILA,  Nat.  Ord.  Caryophyllaceee. 

The  Gypsophilas,  though  not  Everlastings,  are  among  the  most  valuable  flowers  we  have  for 
.  (  bouquet  making,  either  green  or  dried.     Every  one  knows  that  florists 

add  much  to  the  beauty  of  bouquets  by  a 
delicate  net-work  of  fine  flowers,  which  ap- 
pear like  an  airy  veil,  toning  down  the  bright 
colors.  For  this  purpose  the  Gypsophila  is 
used,  and  we  commend  it  to  our  readers  as 
one  of  the  most  desirable  plants  known  for 
ornamental  purposes.  It  dries  admirably, 
and  is  a  treasure  in  winter.  It  flowers  the  first  season,  but  will  continue  to  bloom  several  years. 

STATICE,  Nat.  Ord.  Plumbaginaceee. 

The  Statice  is  an  extensive  series  of  herbaceous  plants,  bearing  their  small  flowers  in  pani- 
They    are  not    Everlastings, 


cles. 


but,  like  the  Gypsophilas,  are  of  very 
great  value  for  drying,  as  they  retain 
their  color  when  dried,  and  work 
up  with  the  true  Everlastings  in 
bouquets  and  floral  ornaments  to 
very  great  advantage.  They  are 
also  equally  useful  in  summer  for 
bouquets  of  fresh  flowers.  There 
are  several  annuals,  almost  as  many 
perennials,  yellow,  pink,  rose  and 
blue.  We  give  an  engraving  of  one  of  the  best  varieties,  S.  latifolia. 

97 


For  others,  see  seed  list. 


ORNAMENTAL  GRASSES. 


liRIZA    MAXIMA. 


THOSE  who  grow  Everlastings  for  winter  decoration  will  need  a  few  of  the  Grasses  to  work 
up  with  them.  If  the  grasses  would  retain  their  color,  as  do  the  flowers,  it  would  be  a  great 
blessing,  but  they  lose,  even  when  dried  with  care  in  the  shade,  most  of 
their  green  color.  In  Europe,  the  Grasses  are  grown  extensively  and 
dyed  of  various  colors,  and  in  this  condition  we  import  them,  and  many 
varieties  are  really  elegant,  especially  the  Stipa  pennata.  Even  without 
this  coloring  they  will  be  found  very  useful.  Some  persons  are  quite  ingen- 
ious in  dyeing  the  Grasses,  and  make  them  look  very  pretty  with  a  little 
coloring  matter.  We  know  that  this  coloring  of  flowers  and  grasses  is 
not  exactly  in  good  taste,  as  a  rule,  but  we  are  almost  ready  to  say, 
anything  to  enliven  winter,  and  these  Grasses  do  look  pretty  when  worked 
up  judiciously  —  not  lavishly  —  with  winter  wreaths.  Cut  about  the  time 
AGROSTIS  NEBULOSA.  of  flowering,  tie  up  in  little  bunches  and 
dry  in  the  shade.  Those  that  flower  the  second  year,  like  the 
Stipa  and  Bromus,  must  be  marked  in  some  way  or  they  will 
be  destroyed  for  weeds,  as  they  look  so  much  like  common  grass. 
We  have  lost  a  good  many  crops  for  the  want  of  this  caution. 
They  are  perfectly  hardy,  and  will  endure  the  winter  just  as  well 
as  any  of  our  wild  grasses.  The  Agrostis  nebulosa  is  a  very  fine  ' 
grass,  indeed,  so  very  fine  and  small 
that  we  can  hardly  represent  it  in 
an  engraving.  Briza  maxima  is 

the  well  known  shaking  grass,  really  one  of  the  most  valuable  of 
our  grasses.  There  are  several  varieties  of  Briza,  all  but  maxima 
quite  small.  Erianthus  Ravenna  is  a  perennial  grass,  perfectly 
hardy,  and  the  best  large  grass  we  know  of  for  a  northern  climate 
—  much  better  than  Pampas  Grass,  which  it  resembles.  The 
flower  stems  are  ten  feet  in  height.  Stipa  pennata  is  the  beautiful 
Feather  Grass,  really  the  most  graceful  and  beautiful  of  all  the 
small  grasses.  We  show  it  as  grow- 
ing, just  as  the  plant  begins  to 
flower,  and  also  a  bunch  of  the  per- 
fected grass,  as  often  used  for  win- 
ter ornament.  We  have  named 

ERIANTHVS    RAVEN'N.E.  ,  /-  r   .1          i  •     ^-  1_      4. 

only  a  few  of  the  best  varieties,  but 

a  full  list  of  all  desirable  kinds  will  be  found  in  our  regular  seed 
list  of  varieties.     Many  will  be  surprised  that  we  have  not  in  this 
page  spoken  of  the  beautiful  Pam- 
pas  Grass,  which   perhaps   has  no 
rival  where  the  winters  are  not  very 
severe,  but   in   the   Northern   and 
Middle   States   it  suffers  sorely  in 
the    winters.       Almost  every    one, 
also,  has  some  favorite  variety,  and 
almost  any  of  the  grasses,  if  gath- 
ered at  the  proper  time  and  well 
cured,  are  useful  and  handsome  in ; 
the  winter.        Cut  the  grasses  be- 
fore  the    flowers    open,   tie    up    in 

little  bunches,  and  hang  them  in  the  shade.       When  sufficiently  dry,  pack  them  away  out  of  the 
dust.     Somewhat  of  a  variety  is  secured  by  cutting  grass  at  different  stages  of  growth. 

98 


IN  this  section  will  be  found  those  Biennials  and  Perennials  that  do  not  flower  until  the 
second  season.  The  first  summer  the  plants  merely  grow  and  gather  a  store  of  strength  for 
next  summer's  flowering,  and  a  stock  of  material  for  the  next  season's  flowers.  The  seed  may 
be  sown  in  early  spring  with  the  Annuals,  or  later  in  the  summer ;  but  if  sown  late,  give  the  seed- 
bed a  cool,  damp  place,  or  keep  the  ground  shaded  and  quite  moist  by  artificial  shading  and 
watering,  until  the  plants  appear,  or  very  likely  the  seeds  will  not  germinate.  This  class  of 
flowers  do  not  usually  keep  in  bloom  a  long  time,  and  therefore  are  not  suited  for  the  lawn, 
where  a  continuous  show  of  flowers  or  pretty  foliage  is  absolutely  necessary.  To  many,  how- 
ever, the  border  of  Perennials  is  the  most  interesting  part  of  the  flower  garden.  Every  day 
almost  it  exhibits  something  new  —  some  flower  in  bloom  that  we  did  not  expect  to  see,  or 
whose  development  we  had  beea  anxiously  watching  and  awaiting.  A  pleasure  or  a  surprise, 
usually  both,  await  us  at  almost  every  visit.  What  a  number  of  old  garden  flowers  we  find  in  the 
Perennial  border.  The  Columbine,  Pink,  Canterbury  Bell,  Hollyhock,  Sweet  William,  and  a 
host  of  other  friends,  all  find  a  home  in  this  department.  Then  the  Perennials  fill  a  space  that 
but  for  them  would  be  almost  destitute  of  flowers,  for  after  the  Bulbs  they  give  us  our  earliest 
spring  flowers.  The  Columbine  and  Canterbury  Bell  and  Larkspur  and  Foxglove  follow  the 
Hyacinths  and  Tulips,  and  keep  us  well  supplied  until  the  Annuals  are  in  their  glory.  Always 
have  a  few  Perennials,  but  in  a  somewhat  retired  part  of  the  garden,  a  pleasant  border  in  some 
place  where  you  can  retire  and  see  a  little  unadorned  beauty.  You  will  enjoy  it  occasionally 
much  more  than  the  gayest  bed  on  the  lawn.  The  Perennial  Climbers  are  admirable,  and  when 
we  have  so  few  adapted  to  our  climate,  should  not  be  neglected. 


ADLUMIA,  Nat.  Ord.  Fumariacece. 

Adlumia  cirrhosa,  or  Alleghany  Vine,  is  a  very  pretty  native  Biennial  climber, 
pal   attraction   consists  in  its  delicate  pale  green,  triply  pinnate   foliage,  the 
twining  foot-stalks  of  which  act  as  tendrils.      The  flowers  are  pink  and  white, 
not  very  conspicuous  or  beautiful,  and  yet  are  neat  and  graceful,  and  of  the 
form  seen  in  the  engraving.     The  plant  neither  runs  nor  bears  flowers  the  first 
season,  but  the  second  will  often  grow  twenty  feet.     Sow  seed  in  the  spring,  in 
a  damp,  cool  place,  or  keep  the  ground  shaded.     Transplant  in  the  autumn,  if 
possible,  though  the  spring  will  answer.     Although  strictly 
a  biennial,  and  therefore  flowering  but  once,  most  persons 
would  judge  it  to  be  a  perennial,  because  in  a  damp  situa- 
tion,   as  on  the  north  side  of  a  porch  or  fence,  self-sown 
seed  germinate  so  freely  that  plants  ai-e  always  in  abundance 
in  every  stage  of  growth,  so  that  some  are  ready  to  take  the 
place  of  the  old  vines  each  year.     The  Adlumia  is  known  as  the  Wood  Frin 
one  of  the  most  interesting  of  our  native  climbers. 

99 


The 


pnnci- 


ADONIS,  Nat.  Ord.  Ranunculacece. 

Adonis  vernalis  is  the  handsomest  of  the  family,  and  is  really  a  desirable  border  plant,  with 

delicate  foliage  and  a  large  flower,  compared  to- 
the  size  of  the  plant,  which  is  only  about  a  foot 
in  height.  The  blossoms  are  yellow,  produced 
in  May  and  June,  and  on  account  of  this  early 
blooming  exceedingly  valuable.  The  Adonis- 
prefers  a  rather  light  soil.  Seed  may  be  grown 
in  the  open  ground,  and  success  is  almost  certain- 
Flowers  cup-shaped.  This  flower  is  now  so  seldom  seen  that  it  will  be  pronounced  new  by  many, 

ALYSSUM,  Nat.  Ord.  Crucifera:. 

Alyssum  saxatile  compactum  is  an  excellent  free-growing  Perennial,  yet  of  a  compact  habit,, 
and  with  pretty,  small,  golden  yellow  flowers,  growing  in  dense 
clusters.  Its  popular  name  is  Gold  Dust.  The  Alyssum  flowers 
very  early  in  the  season,  when  flowers  are  scarce,  and  this,  with  its 
other  merits,  make  it  quite  valuable.  Height  of  plant  about  ten 
inches.  This  is  one  of  the  really  valuable  plants  that  we  can 
recommend  with  pleasure,  because  we  know  it  will  more  than 
meet  expectations.  The  Alyssum  is  well  adapted  for  rock  work, 
and  forms  an  excellent  mass  for  a  bed.  Seeds  grow  readily.  Plants  can  be  increased  by  layering.. 

AQUILEGIA,  (Columbine,)  Nat.  Ord.  Ranunculacea. 

The  Aquilegia  is  the  old  and  well  prized  Columbine,  of  almost  every  conceivable  color,  and 
singular  variations  of  form.  It  grows  wild  in  almost  every  temperate 
country  in  the  world,  and  we  have  always  heard  it  called  by  children  the 

Wild  Honeysuckle.  Like  a  good 
many  of  our  Perennials,  this 
flowers  early  in  the  spring.  The 
name  Columbine  was  given  be- 
cause the  five  spurred  petals, 
with  incurved  heads,  have  been 
thought  to  bear  a  resemblance  to- 
five  doves,  the  sepals  represent- 
ing the  wings.  Seeds  may  be 
sown  in  the  open  ground.  A 
fine  bed  of  Aquilegias  when  in  flower  is  a  beautiful  exhibition.  Our  engravings  show  both  the 
double  and  single  flowers.  Plants  can  be  increased  by  a  division  of  the  roots. 

CAMPANULA,  Nat.  Ord.  Campanulacece. 

The  perennial  Campanula  is  the  well  known,  popular,  large,  blue,  bell-shaped  flower,  known 
every  where  as  the  Canterbury  Bell.    The  C.  medium 
is  the  only  variety  really  entitled  to  the  name,  but  it 
is  commonly  applied  to  all.     Of  late  there  have  been 
many  new  varieties  introduced,  and  some  of  them 
quite  valuable.     Calycanthema,  shown  in  the  engrav- 
ing, has  the  calyx  very  large,  and  the  same  color  as 
the  corolla.     There  are  also  double 
varieties  of  every  color  produced  by 
the    Campanula,   white,    rose,   blue 
and    lilac.       The    double   varieties, 
though    curious,   are   not   really  so 
beautiful    as    the    old    single    bell. 
They    lose    that    light,    transparent 
grace    that    is    so    attractive    in    a 
flower.      We  never  yet  saw  a  bell- 
shaped  flower  improved  by  doubling  —  at  least  we  do  not  now  remember  a  case  of  the  kind. 

100 


DI  AN  THUS,  Nat.  Ord.  Caryophyllacea:. 

Under  this  name  we  include  three  of  the  most  magnificent  members  of  the  Floral  family,  the 
rivals  of  the  Rose  for  queenly  honors,  the  Carnation,  the  Picotee  and  Fink.     As  long  as  we  can 

remember,  these  have  been  the  favorite  flowers  of  the 
florist,  and  proud  and  happy  was  the  man  who  could 
produce  a  perfect  flower.  The  Carnation,  Dianthus 
caryophillus,  is  a  grand  flower,  smooth  edged,  with 
the  stripes  broad  and  running  from  the  base  to  the 
i  outer  edge  of  the  petal,  as  shown  in  the  engraving  at 
the  left.  The  more  clear  arftl  denned  the  stripe  the 
|  better.  The  Picotee  differs  mainly  in  the  coloring, 
the  stripes  running  around  the  edge  of  the  petal,  as 
shown  in  the  engraving,  that  is,  when  perfect,  though 
there  are  some  very  good  flowers  with  narrow  and 
broken  stripes  running  from  the  base  to  the  outer 
edge  of  the  petals.  The  Pink,  D.  hortensis,  is  smaller, 
more  compact  and 
more  mottled  than 
striped,  with  white 
ground.  Seeds  of 
all  may  be  sown 
under  glass,  or  in  i 
the  open  ground 
in  the  spring,  and 
the  second  season 
will  flower.  Some 

will  prove  poor  or  single,  and  these  can  be  pulled  up  as  soon 
as  they  show  their  character.  Young  plants  are  perfectly 
hardy,  and  will  endure  our  winters  well,  but  old  plants  are 
much  injured  generally.  A  succession  of  young  plants  should 

be  procured 
either  from 
seeds  or  lay- 
ers every 
year.  Layer- 
ing is  simply 
cutting  a  slit 
in  a  young 
shoot  to  ob- 
struct the  flow  of  sap,  and  thus  aid  in  the  forma- 
tion of  roots.  First  cut  half  way  through  the 
shoot,  then  make  a  slit  lengthwise  about  an 
inch.  .  Remove  the  earth  a  few  inches  in  depth, 
and  press  down  the  branch  so  that  this  slit  will 
open,  and  then  cover  with  the  soil.  Roots  will 
form  where  the  cut  was  made,  and  thus  a  new 
plant  will  be  formed,  which  can  be  removed  in 
the  autumn  or  spring.  The  layering  should  be 
done  in  midsummer.  The  Pink  is  more  hardy 
than  the  others  and  will  not  become  injured  in 
the  winter,  unless  the  plants  are  very  much 
weakened  by  old  age.  The  engravings  show 
the  Carnation  and  Picotee  on  the  left  of  the  page, 
and  the  Pink  on  the  right.  The  plant  of  the 
Pink  is  smaller  and  more  compact  than  the  others,  and  the  leaves  narrower. 

101 


DELPHINIUM,  Nat.  Ord.  Ranunculace*. 

The  perennial  Delphiniums,  commonly  known  as  Larkspurs,  are  valuable  plants,  the  foliage 
clean  and  pretty,  habit  strong  and  good,  the  flowering  branches 
often  four  feet  in  height,  the  spikes  of  flowers  six 
inches  or  more  in  length,  and  generally  compact. 
The  prevailing  color  is  blue,  and  of  the  most 
intense  character  imaginable.  Some  varieties 
very  light,  azure  blue,  others  of  the  darkest  in- 
digo shades.  White  and  pink  sorts  are  prized 
by  some,  but  none  are  so  gorgeous  as  the  bright 
blues.  Sow  the  seed  in  the  spring,  and  very 
strong  plants  will  be  produced  by  autumn,  that 
flower  the  next  spring.  Transplant  from  the 
seed-bed  early  in  the  fall.  Roots  of  old 
plants  may  be  divided  either  in  the  spring  or 
autumn,  and  thus  after  good  plants  are  once  pro- 
cured, they  may  be  increased  indefinite.}'.  The  name  Larkspur  is  given  on  account  of  the  spur, 
which  resembles  the  spur  of  a  bird,  and  forms  a  prominent  feature  in  the  flowers  of  this  family. 

DIGITALIS,  (Foxglove,)  Nat.  Ord.  Scrophulariacece. 

The  Digitalis  is  a  stately  plant,  when  well  grown,  with  flower-stems  at  least  three  feet  in 
height.  The  raceme  of  flowers  is  at  the  extremity  of  the  stem,  several 
score  of  them,  and  all  drooping  on  one  side,  and  sometimes  covering 
more  than  half  its  length,  as  may  be  seen  in  the  small  engraving.  The 
flowers  are  of  an  irregular  bell  shape,  and  the 
engraving  shows  a  flower  of  full  size,  marked  in  the 
interior  with  circular  dark  spots  which  are  inter- 
spersed among  a  number  of  delicate,  light  colored 
hairs.  There  are  several  varieties,  differing  some- 
what in  form  and  color,  but  we  have  shown  the 
general  form,  and  the  colors  are  white  and  different 
shades  of  purple.  The  Digitalis  is  a  native  of 
Europe,  and  the  old  variety,  D.  purpurea,  may  be 
found  on  the  sides  of  almost  any  of  the  shady 
country  lanes  of  England.  The  Digitalis  is  used 
in  medicine.  Its  common  name  is  Foxglove.  Per- 
fectly hardy,  and  seeds  may  be  sown  in  the  spring, 
in  the  garden,  and  transplanted  as  desired.  In  the 
autumn  large  plants  can  be  divided,  and  thus 
plants  may  be  increased  indefinitely,  but  it  is  well 
to  secure  a  few  fresh  plants  from  seed  occasionally,  as  is  in  this  way  only  new  colors  and  varie- 
ties are  obtained. 

HEDYSARUM,  (French  Honeysuckle,)  Nat.  Ord.  Leguminosa. 
Pretty  much  all  the  species  of  this  genus  are  handsome  flowering  plants,  producing  racemes 
of  attractive,  pea-formed  flowers.     H.  coronarium  is  the  best,  and  there  is  a 
scarlet  and  a  white  variety.       Strange    to    say,  this    Hedysarum    is    called 
in    England    and    America    the    French    Honeysuckle,    though    it    orig- 
inated in  Italy,  and  not  in  France,  and  bears  no  kind  of  resemblance  to  the 
Honeysuckle,  but  more  resembles  clover,  and  as  the  children  suck  the  tubes 
of  clover  flowers  and  call  them  honeysuckles,  perhaps  this  accounts  for  the 
name.     It  is  used  in  the  South  of  Europe  as  green  feed  for  cattle.     It  bears 
some  resemblance  to  the  Scarlet  Clover,  but  is  a  much  bolder  and  hand- 
somer  flower,  and   really  a   most   desirable    Perennial.      Every  one   who 
secures  a  few  plants  will  be  highly  pleased  with  the  investment.     Perfectly  hardy,  and  seed  may 
be  sown  in  the  open  ground. 

102 


hock  is 


HOLLYHOCK,  (Althea  rosea,)  Nat.  Ord.  Malvcueee. 

Every  one  knows  the  old  Hollyhock,  that  all  the  children  have  played  with,  and  that  was  so 
interesting  and  useful  as  a  trap  for  bees,  when  you  and  I,  dear 
reader,  were  young.  Then  it  grew  tall  enough  almost  for  a  flag 
staff,  with  here  and  there  a  single  flower  about  the  shape,  and  half 
as  large  as  a  tea-cup,  and  every  one  of  them,  not  appropriated  to 
other  uses,  turned  into  a  cheese  about  as  big  as  a  cent,  which  the 
girls  thought  made  splendid  necklaces.  This  was  the  old  Holly- 
hock —  not  very  pretty,  not  very  graceful  —  and  yet  there  were 
places  where  the  Hollyhock  of  by-gone  days  looked  well ;  at 
least  we  thought  so  once,  and  we  have  no  desire  to  correct  that 
opinion.  But  look  from  the  picture  we  have  drawn  to  the  one 
made  by  our  engraver.  Here  we  have  a  stately  flower,  and  one 
showing  as  much  grace  as  the  finest  architectural  column  the 
skill  of  man  ever  devised.  No  Rip  Van  Winkle,  just  awakened 
from  a  forty  years'  sleep,  would  recognize  the  modern  Hollyhock 
as  akin  to  any  flower  he  had  ever  before  beheld.  Indeed,  when 
made  up  in  bouquets,  pretty  good  judges  are  often  at  fault.  A 
good,  double,  clear,  white  Hollyhock  is  a  very  good  substitute  for 
a  Camellia  or  a  white  Rose,  as  a  center  of  a  bouquet.  I  do  not 
now  think  of  one  as  good,  except  the  double  white  Balsam.  In 
situations  suitable  for  tall  flowers,  we  know  of  nothing  better  than 
the  Hollyhock ;  and  yet  the  improved  varieties  do  not  grow  very 
high,  from  three  to  four  feet  being  about  the  average.  The  Holly- 
plants  are  obtained  from  seed  and  by  dividing  the  roots. 

HONESTY,  (Lunaria,)  Nat.  Ord.  Crucifera:. 
Lunaria  biennis  is  what  is  known  as  Honesty  in  all  our  gardens,  and  by  all  florists.     There 

are  a  good  many  varieties,  all,  we  think,  native  of  Southern  and 

Central  Europe,  and  all  tall-growing  biennials   and   perennials. 

Honesty,  the  cultivated  variety,  bears  racemes  of  pretty,  single, 

purple  flowers,  and  our  engraving  shows  the  general  habit  of  the 

plant,  as  well  as  the  size  and  form  of  the  flower,  a  single  specimen 

of  which  we  give.     The  pod  which  contains  the  seeds  is  the  most 

interesting   to   many  growers,  and  indeed  the  plant   perhaps   is 

cultivated  mainly  for  its  peculiar  seed-pouches,  which   are  very 

large,    perhaps    two   inches   in   length   by  one    in   width,   very 

thin,  and  silvery  white  when  ripe.      These  silvery  pouches   are 

curious  and  pretty,  and  are  grown  for  winter  ornaments,  for  which 

use  they  are  very  desirable.     We  have  endeavored  to  show  the , 

appearance  of  these  curious  pods,  each  raceme  of  flowers  produc- 1 

ing  about  such  a  cluster  as  shown  in  the  engraving.     The  plant  is  very  hardy ;  two  feet  in  height. 
IPOMOPSIS,  Xat.  Ord.  Poletnoniacea. 

The  Ipomopsis  are  very  beautiful  plants, 
with  long,  elegant  spikes  of  rich  orange 
and  scarlet  flowers,  excellent  for  conser- 
vatory and  out-door  decoration.  The  foli- 
age is  very  fine,  like  that  of  the  Cypress 
Vine,  giving  great  beauty  to  the  plant, 
which  grows  usually  from  three  to  four  feet 
in  height,  and  keeps  in  flower  a  long  tune. 
The  plant  is  a  little  difficult  to  keep  over 
the  winter,  but  generally  proves  quite 
hardy  in  a  dry  place.  A  wet  situation  is 
sure  to  destroy  them  in  winter,  causing 

decay  at  the  surface  of  the  ground.     With  tbi-  e\-:eption,  there  are  few  plants  of  easier  culture. 

103 


LINUM,  (Flax,)  Nat.  Ord.  Linace<z. 

Every  one  is  acquainted  with  our  common  flax,  which  is  a  Linum,  and  has  been  cultivated 

for  a  good  many  thousand  years,  certainly  since  the  time 
when  Joseph  gained  such  distinction  in  Egypt,  for  we 
read  that  Pharaoh  clothed  him  in  fine  linen  ;  and  we  are 
;*  also  told  in  the  history  of  the  plagues  that  occurred  in  the 
time  of  Moses,  that  the  flax  was  smitten.  There  are  sev- 
eral varieties  of  ornamental  flax  well  worthy  of  culture, 
however,  which  few  people  know.  The  plants  are  very 
graceful,  the  foliage  and  stems  delicate,  and  the  flowers 
\  on  the  light,  spray-like  plants,  seem  floating  in  the  air. 
Seeds  may  be  sown  either  under  glass  or  in  the  garden. 

Height  one  foot.      There  are  several  varieties,  white,  blue,  rose  and  yellow,  and  all  desirable. 

PAP  AVER,  (Poppy,)  Nat.  Ord.  Papaveracea. 
There  are  a  few  Perennial  Poppies  that  are  not  only  worthy  of  cultivation,  but  exceedingly 

valuable  to  the  gardener.     The  Oriental  Poppy,  for 

instance,  which  is  of  the  most  intense  scarlet,  with 

a  blackish  or  purplish  blotch  at  the  base  of  each 

petal,  we  have  seen  six  inches  in  diameter.     It  is  a 

monstrous  single  flower,  and  the  flower  stems  gen- 
erally reach  three  or  four  feet  in  height.     There  are 

other  varieties  somewhat  similar  in  character,  but 

we  have  never  found  any  better.     All  the  perennial 

Poppies  are  perfectly  hardy,  and  seed  may  be  sown 

in    the    open    ground.       Our  engravings    show  the 

appearance  of  the  plant  when  in  bloom,  as  well  as 

the  form  of  the  flower,  of  course  much  reduced  in 

size.      The    single  large   perennial    Poppies  are^  a 

great  addition  to  the  herbace- 
ous  border,  and   are   of  great 

value  among  shrubbery,  as  they 

tend  to  relieve  and  lighten  up 

the    usual    dark    and    sombre 

character  borders  or  clumps  of 

shrubbery     assume     after     the 

early  summer.    A  few  plants  of 

annual  Poppies,  and  other  free- 
growing  hardy  annuals,  will  give  the  shrubberies  a  cheerful  and  graceful  wildness  quite  charming. 

PENTSTEMON,  Nat.  Ord.  Scrophulariacea. 

The  Pentstemon  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  perennial  border  plants.  The  very  pretty  long- 
tubed  flowers  grow  in  panicles, 
and  are  purple,  blue,  scarlet, 
rose  and  white.  The  Pentste- 
mons  are  all  natives  of  Amer- 
ica, and  are  very  popular  in  all 
parts  of  the  world.  Our  en- 
gravings show  the  habit  of  the 
plant,  and  also  a  portion  of  a 
panicle,  with  flowers  of  natural 
size.  Seeds  may  be  sown  in 
May,  in  a  cool,  shady  place,  or 
under  glass.  The  flowers  of 
different  varieties  present  a  great 

difference  in  appearance,  some  with  a  bold,  open  mouth  and  a  generous  throat,  while  others  are 

of  the  form  shown  in  the  engraving. 

104 


PEAS,   PERENNIAL,  (Lathyrus,)  Nat.  Ord.  Leguminosa. 

The  Perennial  Pea,  to  our  fancy,  is  one  of  the  prettiest  climbers  that  grows,  and  peculiarly 

adapted  to  our  climate.  When  in  Europe,  we  saw  it  cover- 
ing hundreds  of  hum- 
ble cottages,  causing 
the  otherwise  un- 
sightly buildings  to 
bloom  with  beauty. 
We  determined  to 
grow  this  fine  climb- 
er and  advise  others 
to  do  the  same.  It  is 
perfectly  hardy  in 
this  climate,  dies 

•down  to  the  ground  every  winter  and  starts  again  in  the  spring,  making  a  rapid  growth,  and 
properly  trained,  reaching  ten  or  more  feet  in  height,  and  flowering  for  a  long  time.  The  seed 
does  not  grow  very  readily  sometimes,  but  roots  can  be  obtained,  and  at  a  very  moderate  price. 
The  engraving  shows  something  of  the  habit  of  the  plant,  and  also  the  size  of  the  flowers,  which 
grow  in  large  clusters. 

PRIMULA,   Nat.  Ord.  Primulacfa. 

The  Primulas  do  not  succeed  in  our  climate,  either  North  or  South,  East  or  West,  in  any 
locality  that  we  are  aware  of.  In  the  moist,  mild 
climate  of  England,  and  particularly  of  Scotland, 
the  Primula  family  present  a  gorgeous  array  in  the 
early  spring.  The  Polyanthus  is  the  favorite  spring 
flower  of  English  cottage  gardens.  Indeed,  we 
found  Spring  Flower  to  be  the  common  name  in 
many  localities  for  the  P.  polyanthus.  The  P.  au- 
ricula is  extensively  grown  in  Europe  in  conserva- 
tories, or,  more  generally,  houses  exclusively  de- 
voted to  the  culture  of  this  flower.  In  this  country 
all  do  well  in  a  cold  house,  but  in  the  open  ground 
succeed  best  in  a  Northern  border,  as  the  winter's  sun  is  injurious.  P.  veris  is  the  English  Cow- 
slip, and  P.  vulgaris  is  the  sweet  and  beautiful  English  Wild  Primrose,  that  every  one  who  spent 
his  childish  days  among  the  green  lanes  and  copices  of  England,  ardently  loves.  Seed  in  our 
country  must  be  sown  under  glass. 

PYRETHRUM,  Nat.  Ord.  Composite. 

The  Pyrethrum,  like  the  Aster,  which  it  resembles,  once  was  a  rather  poor  single  flower,  and 

though  somewhat  showy,  could  claim  but  little 
beauty.  The  old  Feverfew,  with  a  small,  double, 
yellowish  white  flower,  was  for  a  long  time  the  best 
of  the  family,  but  recently  many  new  varieties  have 
been  introduced,  mainly  from  France,  double,  and 
°^  bright  colors.  They  come  only  partly  double 
from  seed,  but  are  well  worthy  of  cultivation.  We 
have  found  the  plants  to  be  entirely  hardy  in  this 
section.  It  would  be  well  to  sow  seed  under  glass, 
but  we  have  grown  it  by  sowing  seeds  in  the  open 
ground.  A  good  double  Pyrethrum  is  as  desirable  as  a  good  Aster,  quite  as  large  and  as  double, 
and  if  seed  would  uniformly  or  even  generally  produce  double  flowers,  we  would  advise  even, 
one  to  introduce  it  to  their  gardens ;  but  from  the  best  seed  we  could  ever  obtain  from  the  most 
reliable  growers  of  France,  the  proportion  of  good  double  flowers  was  very  small.  We  shall 
continue  to  trv.  and  hope  for  better  results. 

106 


ROCKET,  (Hesperis,)  Nat.  Ord.  Cruciferce. 

The  sweet  Rocket  is  a  very  hardy  biennial,  bearing  clusters  of  single  flowers,  about  the  size 
shown  in  the  engraving,  and  very  much  resembling  the  Stock, 
single,  and  fragrant  during  the  evening.      The  best  colors 
are  purple  and  white.     There  are  other  colors  which  are  not 
desirable,  and  a  double  white, 
which  produces  no  seed,  and 
which  we  have  not  succeeded 
in    naturalizing    in    America. 
The   plant,   with    fair    culture, 
will  grow  eighteen  inches   in 
height,  is  perfectly  hardy,  and 
seed  will  germinate  readily  in 
the  open  ground.     The  Rocket 
is  thoroughly  hardy,    but    the 
little  pest  that  makes  our  Rad- 
ishes "  wormy"  is  very  fond  of  its  root,  and  sometimes  causes  the  destruction  of  the  plant. 

STOCK,  BROMPTON,  (Mathiola  incana,)  Nat.  Ord.  Crucifera:. 
The  Brompton  Stock   is  the  biennial  of  the  Ten-Weeks  Stock.      The  plant  is  of  a  larger 
growth  than  the  annual,  the  flowers  larger,  and  the 
spikes  longer  and  bolder.     It  would  be  difficult  to 
find  any  flower  more  gorgeous  than  a  good  Bromp- 
ton Stock,  as  seen  growing  in  the  gardens  of  the 
mild    districts   of    Europe.      We   have    measured 
spikes   of  blossoms  nearly  a  foot  in  length,  with 
the  flowers  as  compact  as  possible.     In  the  colder 
districts,  the  Brompton  Stock  is  grown  in  conserva- 
tories.     Unfortunately  this   Stock  can  not  endure 
our  winters,  but   if  plants  are  grown  in  the  open 
ground  during  the  summer,  in  autumn  they  can  be  removed  to  the  house,  where  they  will  flower 
well  if  not  kept  too  hot  and  dry.     In  the  spring,  the  plants  may  be  again  transferred  to  the  gar- 
den, where  they  will  furnish  a  good  many  flowers  during  the  early  summer. 

SWEET  WILLIAM  (Dianthus  barbatus,)  Nat.  Ord.  Caryophyllacea:. 
The  Sweet  William  is  a  very  old  and  popular  garden  flower,  but  not  now  so  often  as  for- 
merly seen  in  our  gardens.  Indeed,  the  system  of 
bedding  with  Geraniums,  and  other  bright  flowers 
and  ornamental  foliaged  plants,  and  the  introduc- 
tion of  the  Phlox  and  Petunia,  and  similar  valuable 
annuals  that  give  a  constant  display  during  the  sum- 
mer, has  almost  driven  a  good  many  of  our  really 
good  flowers  from  the  garden.  A  re-action,  how- 
ever, has  commenced,  and  both  amateurs  and  pro- 
fessional gardeners  are  beginning  to  look  about  for 
their  old  favorites,  so  long  neglected  and  almost 
forgotten.  They  are  not  quite  content,  however,  to 
accept  the  old  flowers  as  they  were  thirty  years  ago ; 
but  are  making  earnest  efforts  for  their  improvement. 
In  this  improvement  the  Sweet  William,  like  the 
Hollyhock,  has  largely  shared.  The  best  varieties 
are  of  exceedingly  beautiful  colors,  very  large,  and 
almost  perfect  in  form,  with  trusses  of  great  size. 
Treatment  as  for  Carnation.  The  plants  are  perfectly  hardy,  and  may  be  increased  by  division 
of  the  roots.  There  are  very  good  double  varieties,  though  a  single  Sweet  William  is  much  to 
be  preferred  to  any  double  we  have  ever  seen. 

106 


VALERIANA,   Nat.  Orel.   I'alerianacees. 

The  Valerian  is  a  beautiful  border  plant  that  we  can  recommend  to  all  lovers  of  flowers  for 

the  hardy,  perennial  border.  There  are  a  good  many 
species  of  this  genus,  a  few  of  them  natives  of  Southern 
countries,  tender,  and  only  suitable  for  green-house  cul- 
ture, but  they  are  mostly  hardy,  natives  of  Switzerland, 
Austria,  the  Pyrenees  and  Scotch  Mountains.  Nothing 
can  be  more  beautiful  than  the  chalk  cliffs  of  England 
when  covered  with  Valerian,  as  we  saw  them  one  glorious 
July  day,  a  few  years  since.  The  improved  or  garden 
varieties  are  beautiful,  bearing  large  corymbs  of  small 

flowers,  scarlet,  white  and  red,  the  plant  from  two  to  three  feet  in  height.      The  Valerian  will 

bear  shade  and  moisture. 

WALLFLOWER,  (Cheiranthus  Cheiri,)  Nat.  Ord.  Crucifera. 

The  Wallflower  resembles  the  Brompton  Stock  in  appearance,  habit  and  necessary  treatment. 
In  the  South  of  Germany,  and  in  England,  in  early  spring,  the 
gardens  are  gorgeous  with  Wallflowers,  while  the  fragrance  pecu- 
liar to  this  flower  perfumes  the  air.  By  growing  plants  in  the 
ground  and  transplanting  to  pots  in  the  autumn,  or  better,  by  plac- 
ing the  young  plants  in  pots  when  taken  from  the  seed-bed,  and 
sinking  the  pots  to  the  rim  in  earth,  good  plants  will  be  secured 
for  winter  flowering  in  the  house.  Give  a  cool  room,  and  plenty 
of  water.  By  placing  the  pots  in  a  pit  or  cold  cellar,  with  a  little 
light  the  plants  may  be  kept  alive  during  the  winter,  and  until  time 
to  remove  to  the  garden.  For  the  conservatory  the  Wallflower  is 
desirable.  While  the  Brompton  Stocks  are  clear  white,  purple,  pink,  &c.,  all  the  colors  of  the 
Wallflower  possess  more  or  less  of  yellow,  the  richest  being  deep,  velvety,  brownish  red. 

DICTAMNUS,   Nat.  Orel.  Rutaceat. 

The  Dictamnus  Fraxinella  is  a  desirable  hardy  perennial  with  racemes  of  large,  showy  flowers 

often  a  foot  in  length.  There 
are  two  varieties,  white  and 
pink.  The  fragrance  of  these 
flowers  is  pleasant  to  most 
people,  being  somewhat  aro- 
matic or  resinous.  The  plant 
i  attains  a  height  of  two  or  three 
feet,  and  the  leaves  being  beau- 
tiful in  form  and  color,  it  is  de- 
sirable in  the  border  for  a  sum- 
mer hedge  or  screen,  and  for 
all  decorative  purposes,  where 
large  flowers  are  admissable,  it 
is  very  useful.  Seeds  germi- 

—  PLANT  AND  FLOWER.  nate  freely  if  sown  either  in 

the  autumn  or  spring,  and  we  have  never  known  a  plant  injured  in  the  winter.       Plants  can  be 
safely  transplanted  or  shipped  at  either  season. 


107 


THE  names  in  this  department  will  have  a  familiar  sound  to  all  lovers  of  house  plants.  The 
Heliotrope,  the  Calceolaria,  Gloxinia,  Chrysanthemum,  Cineraria,  Geranium,  Fuschia,  etc.,  are 
associated  with  our  earliest  recollections  of  floriculture.  Most  persons  procure  house  plants 
from  the  green-houses,  and  when  but  one  or  two  of  a  kind  are  needed  this  is  a  good  plan. 
It  is  also  well  to  purchase  01  the  nearest  florist,  if  good  plants  can  be  obtained,  because  you 
can  then  make  the  selection  personally,  and  your  florist  needs,  and  we  hope 
deserves,  encouragement.  Some,  however,  have  green-houses  and  desire 
many  plants,  and  others  take  pride  and  pleasure  in  growing  from  seed  —  in 
watching  every  day's  mysterious  growth,  from  the  tiny  seed-leaf  to  the  full 
developed  plant,  in  all  its  grand  display  of  beauty.  To  all  such  we  shall 
be  happy  to  furnish  seeds.  As  the  seeds  in  this  department  are  mostly 
delicate,  it  is  best  to  make  several  sowings  at  different  times.  The  most  ex- 
perienced gardeners  always  do  this.  Most  of  the  varieties  known  as  green- 
house plants  will,  of  course,  succeed  as  well  in  the  dwelling  house  as  the 
green-house,  if  we  can  only  secure  the  conditions  necessary  to  their  health, 
and  which  the  conservatory  or  green-house  furnishes.  These  are  light,  warmth, 
moisture,  air,  and  occasionally  a  little  sunshine.  Some  may  think  that  they  supply  all  these 
conditions,  and  yet  the  plants  do  not  flourish.  The  difficulty  generally  is  that  we  keep  our 

living   rooms    too  warm    for   plants,    and   too   warm  /<y  \     _^ 

also  for  our  own  good.  The  atmosphere  of  the  living 
room,  also,  is  too  dry. 
The  florist  syringes 
his  plants,  and  throws 
water  on  the  paths, 
and  all  about  his 
houses,  so  as  to  ob- 
tain a  moist  atmos- 
phere by  its  evapora- 
tion. In  our  living 

rooms  we  provide  no  water  for  evaporation,  and  the  consequence 
is  a  dry  and  unhealthy  atmosphere,  generally 
filled  with  fine  dust  from  the  carpets.  Keep  the 
plants  clean  and  comfort- 
able, with  thermometer  not 
1  Jtf  ft  /  £ll  j^x.xrifcii^^^  over  seventv  or  seventy-five 

•  «Bw'ifa^2k  r/^^n^Jr        in  the  da>T> and  not  more  than 

•    W^P^™g-j^^  fifty   or  sixty   in    the    night. 

TEL  ^r~j£=^^  Keep  the  leaves  clean.  Smooth 

^;  leaves,  like  those  of  the  Ca- 

mellia and  Oleander,  should 
be  washed  with  a  sponge,  but 
some  rough  or  woolly  leaved 
plants,  like  the  Begonia,  dislike  wetting  of  the  foliage.  This  is  particularly,  the  case  with  the 
Chinese  Primulas.  The  engravings  at  the  right,  commencing  at  top  of  page,  show  the  Heliotrope, 
Calceolaria,  and  Cineraria ;  on  the  left,  the  Clianthus. 

108 


TENDER  BULBS 


TENDER  BULBS  AND  TUBERS. 


THE  Tender  or  Summer  Bulbs,  in  this  latitude,  during  August  and  the  early  part  of  Septem- 
ber, are  truly  grand  beyond  comparison.  They  may  not  be  equally  gorgeous  in  some  places,  but 
our  experience  and  observation  is  that  the  Summer  Bulbs  are  delightful  almost  everywhere.  It 
is  no  wonder  they  are  becoming  so  popular  in  all  parts  of  the  civilized  world.  The  Gladio- 
lus takes  rank  at  the  very  head  of  the  list  and  the  Dahlia  is  gaining  more  than  its  old  popularity. 
The  tender  bulbs  are  so  certain  in  their  growth  that  disappointment  is  hardly  possible,  and  so 
easily  cared  for  that  no  one  can  complain  of  the  trouble.  Summer  Bulbs  should  not  be  planted 
until  frost  is  over  in  the  spring,  and  in  the  autumn  must  be  taken  up  before  hard  frosts. 
They  are  easily  preserved  in  any  place  free  from  frost  during  the  winter.  These  remarks,  and 
the  instructions  throughout  this  chapter,  refer  to  the  places  where  severe  frosts  occur.  In  sections 
where  there  is  little  or  no  frost  these  tender  Bulbs,  of  course,  are  perfectly  hardy.  We  cannot 
give  directions  for  every  locality,  and  our  readers  must  use  a  little  judgment  in  the  matter. 
Protect  the  bulbs  from  frost,  and  give  them  the  benefit  of  spring  and  early  summer  growth. 

GLADIOLUS. 

The  Gladiolus  is  the  most  beautiful  of  our  Summer  Bulbs,  with  tall  spikes  of  flowers,  some 
two  feet  or  more  in  height,  and  often  several  spikes  from  the 
same  bulb.  The  flowers  are  of  almost  every  desirable  color 
—  brilliant  scarlet,  crimson,  creamy  white,  striped,  blotched 
and  spotted  in  the  most  curious  and  interesting  manner.  Per- 
haps we  have  no  flower  that  presents  such  a  gorgeous  display 
of  delicate  yet  brilliant  colors  in  the  garden,  or  on  the  exhibi- 
tion tables,  or  for  extensive  floral  decorations,  as  the  Gladio- 
lus. For  many  years  the  French  have  been  the  most  skillful 
propagators  of  this  flower,  and  every  season  introduced  many 
very  beautiful  new  varieties,  grown,  of  course,  from  seed, 
which  the  rest  of  the  world  have  been  very  glad  to  purchase 
at  extravagant  prices — five  dollars  or  more  each.  There  is  no 
country  in  the  world,  we  think,  where  the  Gladiolus  thrives  as 
it  does  in  America  —  it  is  subject  here  to  no  disease,  which  is 
not  the  case  in  Europe  —  and  to  plant  a  bulb  is  to  insure  a 
good  spike  of  flowers.  It  is  not  strange,  therefore,  that  the 
Gladiolus  is  becoming  exceedingly  popular,  and  receiving 
especial  attention  from  florists.  In  our  own  grounds  we  cul- 
tivate from  five  to  ten  acres  of  the  best  named  varieties,  and 
several  acres  of  seedlings.  Among  these  seedlings  are  annu- 
ally produced  some  very  choice  flowers,  while  the  average  is 
very  good,  quite  as  fine  as  ninety  per  cent,  of  the  best  named 
sorts.  The  bulb,  as  it  is  commonly  called,  is  really  a  corm, 
and  from  this  grows  the  erect  stem,  terminating  in  a  spike  of  flowers. 

109 


The  culture  is  very 


simple.     Set  the  bulbs  from  six  to  nine  inches  apart  and  cover  about  four  inches.     If  set  in  rows 

they  may  be  six  inches  apart  in 
the  rows,  and  the  rows  one  foot 
apart.  The  planting  may  be  done 
at  different  times  from  the  middle 
of  April  to  the  first  of  June,  to 
secure  a  long  succession  of  bloom. 
Keep  the  earth  mellow,  and  place 
a  neat  stake  to  support  the  spikes 
in  storms.  I  have  never  known  a 
a  case  where  the  Gladiolus  failed 
'  to  give  the  most  perfect  satisfaction, 
opening  a  new  field  of  beauty  to 
those  unacquainted  with  its  merits. 
In  the  fall,  take  up  the  bulbs,  let 
them  dry  in  the  air  for  a  few  days, 
then  cut  off  the  tops  and  store  the 
bulbs  out  of  the  way  of  frost,  for 
next  season's  planting.  Look  at 
them  occasionally.  If  kept  in  a 
place  too  moist,  they  will  show 
signs  of  moisture  and  perhaps  mil- 
dew. If  this  appears,  remove 
them  to  a  drier  position.  If  the 
bulbs  shrivel,  it  shows  they  are 
getting  too  dry ;  but  they  do  not  usually  suffer  from  a  dry  atmosphere.  To  prevent  disappoint- 
ment, I  would  say,  I  know  of  no  Gladiolus  of  a  bright  yellow  color,  and  none  of  spotless  white. 
Our  engravings  show  two  plants  in  flower,  of  somewhat  different  habit ;  also,  a  bulb  or  corm,  and 
a  single  flower,  the  two  latter  about  natural  size. 

DAHLIAS. 

The  Dahlia,  some  twenty  or  more  years  ago,  was  altogether  the  most  popular  florist's  flower, 
and  Dahlia  exhibitions  the  most  noted  horticultural  contests.  The  Dahlia  for  a  time  lost  part 
of  its  eclat,  but  is  now  not  only  regaining  its  lost 
ground,  but  bids  fair  to  exceed  even  its  former 
position  in  public  estimation.  We  are  not  sur- 
prised at  this,  for  when  we  look  upon  a  well- 
formed  Dahlia,  we  are  compelled  to  acknowl- 
edge that  it  is  a  wonder  of  beauty  and  perfec- 
tion. The  Dahlia,  when  first  discovered  in 
Mexico,  about  1784,  and  named  after  Dr.  DAHL, 
a  pupil  of  Linnaeus,  was  a  single  flower,  and  its 
improvement  was  accomplished  by  the  patience 
and  skill  of  European  florists.  It  was  first  culti- 
vated for  its  tubers,  which  were  thought  to  be  eat- 
able. It  was  not  until  1814  that  it  began  to 
excite  the  attention  of  florists,  and  the  improve- 
ment of  the  Dahlia  has  been  constant  to  the  pres- 
ent time ;  for  though  florists  thought  this  flower 
had  attained  the  highest  point  of  beauty  many 
years  since,  every  year  seedlings  are  produced 
and  named  which  are  considered  as  surpassing 
their  predecessors  in  some  point  of  excellence. 
We  exhibited  seedlings  of  our  own  growing  in  1874,  which  such  excellent  judges  as  ISAAC 
BUCHANAN  and  C.  L.  ALLEN  pronounced  superior  to  any  they  had  before  seen.  The  flower 
shown  is  about  one-half  the  size  of  a  large  Dahlia,  though  they  differ  very  much  in  this  respect, 

110 


Hi    •    :  A- 


some  varieties   always  producing  large   and  others  small  flowers,  the  small  or  medium  being 
usually  the  most  perfect,  and  the  largest  often  somewhat  coarse.     Purchasers  oi  Dahlias  usually 

obtain  the  tubers  for  planting,  because  they 
are  more  safely  transported  than  plants,  and 
the  appearance  of  these  tubers  will  be  seen  by 
the  little  engraving  of  the  Dahlia  root.  Buds 
are  found  at  the  neck  of  the  tubers  and  these 
form  the  plants.  Put  the  tubers  in  the  ground 
when  the  season  becomes  warm,  covering  the 
neck  some  three  inches.  If  many  shoots  start, 
thin  them  out.  There  is  no  necessity  for  plant- 
ing the  Dahlia  early,  as  it  is  an  autumn  flower, 
and  seldom  gives  good  blossoms  until  the 
nights  are  somewhat  cool.  After  flowering, 
and  before  hard  frosts,  take  up  the  bulbs,  dry 
them  a  little,  remove  the  tops,  and  store  in 
the  cellar  until  spring,  when  they  can  be 
divided  and  re-planted.  The  size  of  the  tuber 
has  no  influence  on  the  strength  of  the  plant  or 
the  beauty  of  the  flower;  all  the  tuber  is  needed 
for  is  to  sustain  the  young  shoot  until  it  can 
take  root  and  obtain  its  own  support.  Florists 
usually  place  the  tubers  in  a  hot-bed  early  in  the  spring,  and  as  fast  as  the  young  shoots  get  a  few 
inches  of  growth,  take  them  off  and  pot  them, 

when,  everything  being  favorable,  each  one  will  >a     ESS^  tt&d'iit£F 

root  and  make  a  good  plant.    They  are  often  sold  K-><^ 

in  this  way,  especially  new  and  scarce  varieties. 
The  tall  growing  plants  require  staking,  if  grow- 
ing in  exposed  situations,  or  they  are  often  broken 
by  the  wind.  The  Dahlia  is  divided  into  three 
pretty  distinct  classes,  the  first  being  the  largest 
and  most  important,  as  follows :  Show  Dahlia, 
growing  from  three  to  four  feet  in  height,  and 
embracing  all  our  finest  sorts,  fit  for  exhibiting  at 
horticultural  shows,  from  which  the  name  is 
derived;  the  flowers  ranging  in  size  from  two 
and  a  half  to  four 
inches  in  diameter. 
The  Dwarf  or  Bed- 
ding Dahlia  grows  about  eighteen  inches  in  height,  and  makes 
a  thick,  compact  bush,  and  covers  a  good  deal  of  surface.  Flowers  of 
the  size  of  Show  Dahlias.  They  are  therefore  very  desirable  for  bed- 
ding and  massing.  The  Pompon  or  Bouquet  Dahlia  makes  a  pretty, 
compact  plant,  about  three  feet 
in  height.  The  leaves  are  small, 
and  the  flowers  from  one  to  two : 
inches  in  diameter.  Many  expect 
to  find  small  flowers  on  their  Dwarf 
Dahlias,  and  feel  disappointed 
because  they  are  of  the  ordinary 
size,  not  knowing  that  it  is  the  plant, 
and  not  the  flower  that  is  dwarfed, 
and  that  only  the  Pompon  gives  the 
small  flowers.  The  striped  and 
mottled  and  spotted  flowers  belonging  to  the  Show  section  are  called  Fancy,  and  though  not  as 
rich  and  usually  as  highly  prized  as  the  selfs,  or  those  of  one  color,  are  very  attractive. 

Ill 


POMPON    DAHLIA. 


DAHLIA   ROOT. 


CANNA. 
The  Canna  is  a  fine  foliage  plant,  making  a  good  bed  alone,  but  particularly  desirable  as  the 

center  of  a  group  of  foliage  plants,  of  which  it   is  one  of  the  very  best. 

Growing  from    four  to  six  feet.       The    leaves    are    sometimes  two  feet  in 

length,  of  a  beautiful  green,  some  varieties  tinted  with  red.       The  flowers 

are  on  spikes,  pretty,  but  not  conspicuous.        Roots    can  be    taken   up  in 

the  autumn  and  placed  in  the  cellar.      They  flourish  and  are  vigorous  in  the 

dryest  and  hottest  weather.       A  bed    of 

Cannas  presents  a  very  beautiful  tropical 

appearance  that  is  exceedingly  pleasant, 

contrasting  delightfully  with  the  ordinary 

foliage  of  the    garden.        In    the   West 

Indies  a  superior  kind  of   arrowroot    is  .jgi 

made  from  the  fleshy  underground  stems ;  ^gC^^ 

the  tubers  of  some  species  are  eaten  as  a 

vegetable.  The  seeds  are  large,  round 
and  black,  which  gives  its  common  name,  Indian  Shot.  The  Canna  and  the  Ricinus  we 
consider  the  two  best  foliage  plants  known  for  ordinary  use  in  this  country.  A  good  bed  of 
Cannas,  and  another  of  Ricinus,  will  almost  make  one  dream  he  is  luxuriating  in  the  tropics. 

CALADIUM    ESCULENTUM. 

The  Caladium  is  one  of  the  handsomest  of  the  ornamental-leaved  plants.  The  leaves  are 
often  more  than  a  foot  in  length,  nearly  as  much  in  breadth, 
and  of  a  beautiful  green,  somewhat  variegated  or  mottled. 
Roots  obtained  in  the  spring  will  make  a  good  growth  in  the 
summer,  and  in  the  fall  should  be  taken  up  and  stored  in  the 
cellar,  like  Dahlias.  The  Caladium  delights  in  heat  and 
moisture,  and  in  localities  pretty  well  North  it  is  well  to  start 
the  root  stalks,  or  rhizomes,  which  the  fleshy  bulb-like  root  is 
called,  in  the  house  a  few  weeks  before 
it  is  time  to  plant  in  the  garden,  as  in 
this  way  a  larger  and  earlier  growth  is 
obtained.  The  Caladium  is  a  native  of 
very  warm  countries,  such  as  the  Sand- 
wich Islands  and  the  West  Indies,  and  as 
the  roots  abound  in  starch,  they  are  eaten 
by  the  natives,  after  being  deprived  of  their  acrid  properties  by  some  process  of  cookery,  or 
perhaps  filtering,  in  some  such  manner  as  the  Indians  of  California  remove  the  tannin  and 
bitter  taste  from  the  acorns,  which  they  do  by  washing  and  filtering  through  the  sand. 

GALLA. 

This  is  the  well-known  Egyptian  Lily,  or  Lily  of  the  Nile.  Its  large  white  flowers  are  indis- 
pensable in  the  winter,  its  foliage  is  broad  and  good,  and  it  will  pros- 
per under  very  adverse  circumstances,  if  water 
is  provided  in  abundance.  It  is  also  an  excel- 
lent plant  for  aquariums  —  none  better,  either 
placed  in  the  center  bedded  in  a  little  earth  and 
'  sand,  which  may  be  covered  with  stones,  or 
'  planted  in  a  pot  which  can  be  placed  in  the 
aquarium,  and  so  covered  with  pieces  of  rock 
as  to  be  entirely  concealed.  In  the  spring, 
the  plant  may  be  set  in  the  garden,  where 
it  can  remain  until  autumn,  when  it  should  be  repotted  for  winter  flowering.  It  will  not  appear 
to  advantage  in  the  garden,  nor  is  it-designed  to  do  so,  the  object  being  to  place  it  where  it  will 
be  no  trouble  and  at  the  same  time  gain  strength  for  winter  blooming.  In  California  the  Calla 
makes  a  wonderful  growth,  and  is  perfectly  hardy,  as,  of  course,  it  is  in  the  South. 

112 


TUBEROSE. 

The  Tuberose  is  a  beautiful,  pure  white,  wax-like,  very  sweet-scented,  double  flower,  growing 

tall  stems  three  feet  in  height,  each  stem  bearing  a  dozen  or  more  flowers.      The  engravings 

show  a  plant,  much  reduced  in  size  but  giving 
a  very  good  idea  of  its  appearance  when  in 
blossom ;  a  flower,  and  also  a  tuber,  both  of 
natural  size.  The  Tuberose,  being  a  native 
of  the  East  Indies,  delights  in  great  heat,  and 
where  summers  are  short  and  not  very  warm, 
does  not  always  flower  before  frost  destroys 
the  plant.  In  such  latitudes,  obtain  tubers 
early  and  plant  them 
in  boxes  of  earth, 
and  place  these 
boxes  in  the  hottest 
place  in  the  house, 
watering  very  little, 
where  they  can  re- 
main until  the  atmo- 
sphere and  soil  is 
quite  warm.  Then 

transplant  to  the  garden.     Those  who  want  this  beautiful  flower  in  the 

early  winter  can  plant  a  few  bulbs  in  pots  in  July  or  August,  sink  them 

to  the  rim  in  earth  in  the  garden,  where  they  can  remain  until  the  cool 

nights  of  autumn,  to  be   then   removed   to   the   house.      Those  who 

are  favored  with  warm  and  long  summers,  need  only  plant  the  tubers  in 

the  garden  as  soon  as  the  weather  is  warm.     The  Tuberose  flowers  but 

once;  but  the  old  tuber  forms  many  small  ones,  and  these,  after   one 

year's  growth,  under  favorable  circumstances,  make  flowering  bulbs.     A  dwarf  variety,  called 

Pearl,  has  a  shorter  flower-stem,  usually  about  eighteen  inches.     Those  who  preserve  tubers  over 

winter  for  flowers  the  next  summer,  must  keep  them  in  a  warm  room,  or  the  flower  stem  will  rot, 

and  the  tubers  never  flower. 

MADEIRA  VINE. 

The  Madeira  Vine  is  a  beautiful  climber,  with  thick,  glossy,  light  green,  almost  transparent 
leaves,  and  climbing  to  almost  any  remarkable  height,  and  twining  in  any  desired  form.  Then 
it  is  as  useful  as  beautiful,  because  it  will  bear  almost  any  kind  of  merciless 
treatment,  without  saying  a  word.  Plant  the  tuber  out  of  doors  in  the  spring, 
and  it  commences  to  grow  at  once,  and  if  in  a  warm,  sheltered  place,  very  rapidly, 
until  its  slender  branches,  covered  with  pretty  leaves,  have  climbed  nearly  a 
score  of  feet  over  pillar  or  porch ;  and  then  towards  autumn,  as  though  grateful 
for  a  chance  to  live  and  grow,  it  sends  forth  its  racemes  of  little,  delicate,  white 
flowers,  as  sweet  almost  as  Mignonette.  In  the  autumn,  cut  off  the  tops,  dig  up 

the  tubers,  and  throw  them  into  a  cellar,  where 
they  will  keep  sounder  and  safer  than  potatoes ; 
or,  take  up  the  bulbs  carefully,  pot  them,  remove 
them  to  the  house,  and  they  will  bear  the  heat, 
dust  and  smoke  of  the  worst  living  room  imagin- 
able, with  perhaps  only  a  pitiful  look  of  remon- 
"strance  from  their  sensitive  leaves,  while  any- 
thing like  decent  usage  will  cause  a  smile  of 
satisfaction,  from  the  root  to  tiniest  leaflet. 
The  Madeira  Vine  is  excellent  for  baskets  and 
vases,  furnishing  a  large  amount  of  pretty,  grace- 
ful foliage.  For  screens  for  windows  and  other 
m-door  work  it  is  equaled  by  no  climber,  except,  perhaps,  the  Ivy,  which  is  almost  a  salamander. 

113 


TIGRIDIA. 
The  Tigridia,  or  Mexican  Tiger  Flower,  is  one  of  the  most  curious  and  beautiful  flowers  that 

this  earth  produces.     T.  Pavonia  is  of  the  richest  scarlet,  with  a  center  of  golden  yellow  spotted 

with  black.  T.  conchiflora,  orange,  variegated  with  yel- 
low and  spotted  with  black.  The  flowers  are  from  three 
to  four  inches  in  diameter,  and,  though  short-lived,  are  pro- 
duced in  succession  during  the  whole  season,  so  that  a 
little  bed  is  never  without  flowers.  The  blossoms  appear 
very  early  in  the  morning,  and  in  dull  weather  will  be 
bright  nearly  all  day,  but  a  few  hours  of  sunshine  destroy 
their  beauty.  The  next  morning,  however,  a  new  lot 
appear,  and  the  bed  is  gay  as  ever.  The  flower  stems  are 
from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  in  height,  the  bulbs  are 
small.  Plant  about  the  middle  of  May  in  this  latitude, 
and  take  them  up  in  October,  dry  for  a  few  days  in  the 
air,  and  then  pack  them  away  in  dry  sand  or  sawdust  in 
any  room  free  from  frost,  and  out  of  the  reach  of  mice  and 

rats,  as  these  animals  consider  them  a  great  luxury. 

AMARYLLIS  VALOTTA  PURPUREA. 

This  is  becoming  a  very  popular  plant  for  summer  blooming,  and  for  a  pot-plant  for  the  dec- 
oration of  porches,  piazzas,  etc.,  there  is  nothing  prettier.  It  throws 
up  a  strong  ^rrwer-stem,  in  August,  about  eighteen  inches  in  height,  bear- 
ing from  fou.  to  eight  brilliant,  purplish  scarlet  flowers,  two  to  three 
inches  in  diameter,  and  as  these  flowers  open  in  succession,  the  plant 
continues  in  blossom  a  long  time,  and  therefore  makes  a  very  durable  as 
well  as  beautiful  ornament.  It  flowers  most  surely  and  freely  in  a  small 
pot;  indeed,  a  pot  a  little  more  than  sufficient  to  hold  the  bulb  is.  -11 
that  is  necessary,  and  this  is  an  advantage,  because  any  of  the  little  orna- 
mental pots  may  be  employed  for  this  bulb,  and  they  are  charmingly  in 
keeping  with  the  neat  habit  of  the  plant,  and  the  honorable  position  it  is 
destined  to  occupy  on  the  entrance  porch,  or  the  verandah  in  front  of  the 
parlor  windows.  Bulbs  may  be  potted  any  time  in  the  spring,  or  even  as 
late  as  June.  After  flowering,  the  bulb  may  remain  in  the  pot  until  the 
following  spring,  and  should  be  kept  pretty  cool  and  not  over  moist.  In 
May  next  the  bulb  will  probably  need  more  room,  and  should  be  re-pot- 
ted for  flowering.  In  a  year  or  two  a  number  of  bulbs  will  form,  giving  several  flower  stems. 

ERYTHRINA    CRISTA-GALLI. 

The  Erythrina  is  a  fine,  robust  plant,  with  broad  leaves  and  large  red  flowers,  somewhat  pea- 
formed,  an  inch  or  so  in  length,  and  growing  in  long  racemes,  some- 
times ten  or  twelve  inches  in  length.  There  is  great  substance  in  the 
flower,  giving  it  a  leathery  appearance.  The  roots  are  thick  and  fleshy, 
but  not  exactly  tuberous,  and  may  be  kept  in  a  pit  or  cellar  during  the 
winter.  Plants  put  out  in  the  spring  will  flower  du- 
ring the  summer,  and  before  hard  frosts  should  be 
taken  up,  the  main  branches  cut  back  to  within  four 
or  five  inches  of  the  root,  and  then  stowed  away  in 
winter  quarters  until  spring.  It  is  a  very  fine  plant, 
and  those  who  have  never  grown  it  will  derive  a  good 
deal  of  pleasure  from  its  culture.  It  is  a  native  of 
Brazil,  and  in  the  more  Southern  States  and  Pacific 
coast  would  prove  hardy.  In  giving  direction  for  cul- 
ture we  are  apt  to  furnish  those  suited  to  our  latitude, 
forgetting  the  great  extent  and  diversified  climate  of  our  country,  though  we  have  endeavored  to 
be  particular  on  this  point.  Readers,  however,  are  always  ready  to  take  advantage  of  any 
climatic  favors  that  will  save  trouble. 

114 


TRITOMA. 

The  Tritoma  uvaria  is  a  stately,  vigorous  plant,  sending  up  its  strong  flower  stems  four  or  five 
feet  in  height,  surmounted  by  a  spike  of  curious  red  and  orange,  pendant  flowers,  a  foot  in  length, 

very  striking,  and  by 
its  supposed  resem- 
blance to  that  domestic 
implement,  generally 
known  as  the  Red  Hot 
Poker.  The  Tritoma 
flowers  late  in  the  sum- 
mer, usually  commenc- 
ing in  August  in  this 
latitude,  and  continu- 

/ing  until  winter,  and  is 
admirably  adapted  for 
forming  large  beds  or 
groups,  the  numerous 
flame-colored  racemes 
forming  a  stately  ob- 
ject. The  Tritoma,  in 
this  climate,  is  almost 
hardy,  but  not  quite. 
Some  winters  it  suffers 
little.  It  may  be  win- 
tered in  a  pit  or  cool 
cellar.  The  Tritoma 
likes  a  moist  situation,  and  does  not  give  its  best  flowers  until  autumn  if  planted  in  a  dry  place. 

THE    BULBOUS    BEGONIAS. 

All  our  readers  are  acquainted  with  the  Begonia  family,  so  deservedly  popular,  rendered  so 
by  the  elegantly  marked  and  colored  foliage,  which  characterize  so  many  of  its  members.  Within 
a  few  years  a  new  class  has  been  introduced  to  the  floricultural  world',  called  New  Bulbous  or 
Tuberous  Begonias.  These  new  Begonias  may  be  treated  like  Dahlias  or  Gladioli,  the  bulbs 

being  planted  in  the  spring  in  the  open 
ground,  producing  fine  plants  and  flower- 
ing freely  until  autumn.  The  plants  are 
from  a  foot  to  eighteen  inches  in  height, 
quite  branching,  and  always  in  flower. 
They  bear  the  sun  without  injury.  In 
Northern  climates  it  is  well  to  pot  the 
bulbs  so  as  to  give  them  a  good  start  be- 
fore setting  out.  Indeed,  this  would  be 
good  practice  anywhere.  The  bulb  ap- 
pears as  shown  in  the  engraving,  and  is 
some  two  in- 
ches across. 
The  large  en- 
graving shows 
the  appear- 
ance of  a 
strong  plant. 

As  we  have  had  these  new  Begonias  in  our  grounds  several  years,  we  can  say  they  are  quite 
promising,  and  we  would  not  be  surprised  if  they  should  in  a  few  years  be  greatly  in  demand  for 
bedding.  We  would  advise  our  friends  to  obtain  at  least  a  few  bulbs  for  trial.  There  is  great 
pleasure  in  growing  new  things,  if  successful. 

115 


BORDER    PLANTS. 


THRIFT. 

Almost  every  day  some  one  inquires  what  is  best  for  a  low  edging  for  flower  beds.       For  a 
summer  edging,  or  course,  almost  any  low-growing,  compact  plant  will  answer —  anything  either 

pretty  in  foliage  or  flowers.  What  is  generally  desired, 
however,  is  a  permanent  border;  and  plants  adapted  for 
this  purpose,  and  for  Northern  latitues,  are  by  no  means 
abundant.  While  thinking  of  this  subject,  so  frequently 
brought  to  our  notice,  we  remembered  an  old-fashioned 
plant  we  had  often  seen  in  England,  as  a  substitute  for  box, 
the  Armeria  vulgaris,  or  Thrift,  but  most  commonly 
called,  we  believe,  Sea  Pink.  The  plant  grows  only 
about  six  inches  in  height,  and  is  composed  of  a  mass  of 
narrow,  short,  grass-like  leaves.  From  this  mass  of  foliage 
wiry  stems  are  thrown  upwards  from  four  to  six  inches  in 


height,  and  these  bear  clusters  of  pink  flowers.  It  blooms  pretty  freely  through  the  whole 
summer,  and  bears  our  severe  winters  without  the  least  injury.  We  may  as  well  add  that  it 
makes  an  admirable  house  plant  in  the  winter,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  engraving,  which  was  taken 
from  a  plant  in  our  possession.  It  increases  rapidly,  and  plants  can  be  had  for  a  dollar  a  dozen. 

OXALIS 

One  of  the  prettiest  tender  things  we  are  acquainted  with  for  borders  or  edgings  of  beds  and 
walks,  is  the  OXALIS  LASIANDRA.     It  forms  a  fine  rounded  edging  a  foot  or  so  in  height,  and 

about  the  same  in  breadth.  The  leaves  are 
in  nine  divi- 
sions, as  shown 
in  the  engrav- 
ing, the  flower- 
stems  standing 
well  up  above 
j  the  foliage,  of 
bright,  pur- 
plish pink,  and  of  the  size  seen  in  the  illustration.  The  flowers  open  in  sunny  weather,  and 
close  in  the  evening.  The  bulbs  are  small,  and  should  be  planted  from  one  to  two  inches 
apart.  Eveiy  little  bulb  will  make  a  good  strong  plant. 

For  the  two  past  seasons  we  have  been  using  another  Oxalis  for  a  summer  border,  and  with 
results  quite  as  satisfactory,  though  somewhat  different.  This  is  OXALIS  DEPPII,  and  if  there  is 
anything  in  the  world  that  will  make  a  prettier  border  we  do  not  remember 
it  at  this  moment.  The  leaves  are  of  a  lively  green  with  a  black  zone, 
something  like  the  zonale  Geraniums,  and  the  .  jae<^jifc^ 

leaves   are  so   abundant   as  to  form  a  globular 
border,  as  shown  in  the  little  engraving.      The 
form  of  the  leaf  we  have   also   endeavored  to 
illustrate.       For  some  reason   this  Oxalis  bears  ==3 
few  flowers  when  used  for  a  border,  which  we 
think  quite  as  well,   as   the  foliage,   unbroken,  is  quite  handsome  enough.     Take  up  the  bulbs 
of  both  varieties  in  the  autumn" and  store  them  away  from  frost  until  time  for  spring  planting. 

116 


HABDY  PLANTS,  BULBS,   &c. 


Hardy  Bulbs  are  those  that,  like  the  Lilies,  endure  the  winter  in  the  garden  without  injury, 
and  when  once  planted  will  continue  to  grow  and  increase  for  a  number  of  years.  They  are,  and 
always  will  continue,  popular,  on  account  of  their  great  beauty,  and  because  they  require  so  little 
labor.  The  work  of  planting  once  well  done  is  over  for  a  life  time.  There  is  no  taking  up  and 
storing  and  re-planting  —  no  danger  of  loss  from  frost,  or  rotting  from  improper  storing.  Occa 
sionally,  when  the  increase  has  been  so  great  that  the  plants  crowd  each  other,  they  can  be  taken 
up,  divided  and  re-planted,  and  if  the  increase  has  been  too  great  for  the  space  desired  to  be 
appropriated  to  them,  flower-loving  neighbors  will  be  glad  of  the  surplus.  No  pknt,  or  class  of 
plants,  however,  possess  all  good  qualities,  and  those  in  this  department  do  not  generally  keep  in 
flower  a  long  time,  like  some  of  our  best  annuals  and  tender  bedding  plants. 

ANEMONE    JAPONICA    ALBA. 

Anemone  Japonica  alba  is  the  best  hardy,  white  blooming,  autumn  flowering  plant  we  have. 

The  Anemone,  during  the  summer,  is  a  plain  looking 
plant,  with  dark  green  foliage,  one  that  would  attract 

F ' rffj^BP/ "\  ^ \»- 1 -A^*-. ^t*. /.^      no  attention;  but  in  the  latter  part  of  summer  flower 

stems  begin  to  appear,  and  when  some  eighteen  inches 
in  height  the  white  flowers  commence  to  open ;  and  if  the 
nights  are  rather  cool  and  dewy,  the  advancement  of  the 
plant  to  perfection  is  rapid.  It  soon  bears  from  a  score 
to  a  hundred  of  its  clear  white  flowers,  and  is  an  object 
to  delight  every  lover  of  flowers,  especially  as  it  con- 
tinues to  improve  until  destroyed  by  frost,  thus  giving  a 
mass  of  white  blooms  when  every  other  white  flower  is 
gone,  except  the  Ten-Weeks  Stock,  Candytuft  and 
Alyssum.  The  flowers  are  more  than  an  inch  in  diam- 
eter. The  plant  is  perfectly  hardy  every  where,  we 
judge,  never  having  lost  one,  and  increases  so  rapidly  that  a  small  plant  soon  makes  a  conspic- 
uous clump.  Although  perhaps  not  to  be  recommended  for  cutting,  as  it  does  not  carry  very  well, 
for  large  floral  decorations  it  is  quite  valuable. 

DAY    LILY. 

The  pretty  Funkia,  commonly  called  Day  Lily,  we  believe,   because  one   of  its  beautiful 
flowers    opens   every   day,  is   truly  a   very   desirable   autumn 
flower   that   every  one  should  possess,  and  everybody  will  be 

pleased  with.    The 

plant      has      light, 

broad  foliage,  pret- 
tily veined.      The 

buds    form     in     a 

cluster  on    a   stem 

six  inches  or  more 

in  length,  as  shown 

in   the    engraving, 

but    usually    only 

one     opens     each 

day.      The  flowers 

are    of    the    purest 

white    imaginable, 

trumpet  -  shaped, 

about  five  inches  in  length.  The  blue  variety,  shown  in  the  engraving  at  right  of  page,  has 
smaller  flowers,  but  larger  clusters,  makes  a  taller  growth,  and  though  not  so  pretty  nor  so  popu- 
lar as  the  white,  is  a  meritorious  autumn  flowering  plant. 

117 


LILIUM    LANCIFOLIUM. 


LILIES. 

THE  LILY  is  loved  in  every  land.  It  is  the  queen  of  flowers,  and  only  the  Rose  can  dispute 
its  regal  honors.  We  find  it  in  the  humid  vale,  the  arid  desert,  and  on  the  lofty  mountain  top. 
With  few  exceptions,  Lilies  succeed  in  our  gardens  admirably,  are  subject  to  no  diseases,  and 
continue  to  increase  in  strength  and  beauty  for  many  years.  From  six  to  a  dozen  of  the  best 
varieties  will  give  a  good  collection,  better  far  than  is  seen  even  in  most  of  our  best  gardens. 
The  past  twenty  years  has  added  to  our  garden  Lilies  the  best  we  now  possess,  such  as  Lanci- 

foliunt,  of  several  varieties,  Auratum,  Wash- 
ingtonianum,  Bloomer  ianum,  &c.  Some  of  the 
newer  varieties  have  been,  affected  with  a  strange 
disease,  or  perhaps  did  not  take  kindly  to  our 
climate  and  soil,  or  may  have  been  seriously 
injured  by  a  long  journey.  Whatever  may  have 
been  the  cause,  the  Auratum  certainly  was  not 
reliable  for  a  number  of  years 
after  its  introduction.  Some,  hav- 
ing every  appearance  of  sound- 
ness, when  planted  would  make 
a  vigorous  start,  and  then,  with- 
out apparent  cause,  perhaps  as 
the  buds  were  about  to  open, 
show  signs  of  disease,  the  leaves 
drooping,  and  an  examination 
showing  a  decaying  bulb.  Oth- 
ers would  flower  beautifully  the 
first  season,  and  decay  the  sec- 
ond or  even  the  third.  We 
have  lost  thousands  of  Auratum  bulbs  in  this  way.  We  have  now  mature,  good  sized  bulbs, 
raised  in  our  grounds  —  beds  of  many  thousands,  with  the  foliage  very  much  improved,  and  very 
little,  if  any,  sign  of  disease.  The  Auratum  is  so  grand  that  we  must  have  it,  though  we  occa- 
sionally lose  a  bulb  or  two;  and  as  we  now  grow  them  with  every  appearance  of  sound- 
ness, the  difficulty,  whatever  its  cause,  we  hope  is  entirely  overcome. 

The  California  Lilies  we  have  not  before  dared  to  describe,  although  we  have  cultivated  them 
several  years,  because  sometimes  we  have  received  several  species  under  one  name,  and  at  other 
times,  what  seemed  to  be  one  variety,  with  a  good  many  more  names  than  it  was  entitled  to. 
Our  management,  also,  seemed  to  be  defective,  so  we  visited  California  to  see  the  Lilies  and 
consult  with  her  most  conscientious  florists  and  most  experienced  botanists.  We  think  we  now 
understand  the  characteristics  of  the  California  Lilies,  and  their  habits,  so  that  we  can  describe 
them  understandingly ;  but  the  most  important  lesson  we  learned  was  the  necessity  of  deep  plant- 
ing. We  are  quite  certain  we  dug  Lily  bulbs  in  California  rally  eighteen  inches  below-  the  sur- 
face, and  are  satisfied  that  much  of  our  losses 
with  the  Auratum  and  the  Pacific  Lilies  was 
the  result  of  shallow  planting,  though  we  are 
well  aware  that  this  was  not  the  entire  cause. 
We  would  advise  all  who  plant  the  Auratum, 
or  any  of  the  California  Lilies,  to  set  them 
deep.  Indeed,  all  Lilies  require  deep  planting. 
The  collection  of  Lilies  is  now  so  large 
and  so  good  that  no  lover  of  flowers  can 
afford  to  ignore  this  interesting  and  elegant 
family,  and  no  garden  can  be  considered 
complete  without  a  good  collection.  We 
will  describe  a  few  of  the  best. 

Lilium  landfolium.     Among  the  many  truly  valuable  flowers  that  have  been  introduced  into 
this  country  and  Europe  from  Japan  and  China,  during  the  past  twenty  years,  we  know  of 

118 


LILIUM    CHALCEDONICUM. 


1—  i    A*?    wJ» 


none  that  excel  the  beautiful,  delicate,  yet  brilliant  Japan  Lilies  —  Lilium  lancifolium.  In 
addition  to  their  beauty,  these  Lilies  are  exceedingly  fragrant  and  as  hardy  as  any  of  our  common 

varieties.     Strong  bulbs  send  up 
flowering    stems   from   three   to 
four  or  five   feet  in  height,  and 
begin  to  bloom  about  the  middle 
of  summer.   Each  flowering  stem 
will  have  from  two  to  a  dozen 
flowers,  according  to  strength  of 
bulb.      No   description   can   do 
anything  like  justice  to  these  flow- 
ers, or  show  the  beautiful  frost- 
like  v/hite  of  the  surface,  glisten- 
ing like  diamonds,  or  the  rubies 
that   stand   out  on   the  surface. 
L.  Chalcedo- 
nicum  is   one 
of  the  Marta- 
gon  or  Turk's 
Cap  Lilies,  be- 
ing much  re- 
flexed,  as  can 
be  seen  in  the 
engraving. 
The  flower  is 
small,      about 
the  size  of  our 
common  Can- 

adense,  but  it  is  the  most  brilliant  flower  of  the  family  —  a  scarlet  so  bright  that  no  painting  can 
do  it  justice,  as  it  is  impossible  to  procure  a  color  sufficiently  intense.  We  have  endeavored  to 
portray  this  Lily  in  our  Chromo  B,  where  it  will  be  found  quite  correct,  except  in  coloring.  The 
Chalcedonicum  is  a  native  of  Palestine,  and  is,  no  doubt,  the  flower  referred  to  by  our  SAVIOR  as 
the  Lily  of  the  field  arrayed  in  glory  far  exceeding  even  the  glory  of  Israel's  most  voluptuous 
monarch.  In  addition  to  the  brilliant  color,  the  flower  has  the  appearance  of  being  freshly  var- 
nished. Plant  pretty  deep,  and  it  is  well  to  give  a  little  mulching  the  first  summer.  A  few 
flowers  only  will  be  given  the  first  season,  if  any,  but  the  improvement  will  be  marked  and  sat- 
isfactory every  season. 

L.  auratum  is  the  great  Lily 
of  Japan,  often  called  Golden- 
Banded  Lily.    This  is  the  King 
of  Lilies.     The  flower  is  from 
ten  to  twelve 
inches  in  di- 
ameter, com- 
posed of  six 
very  delicate 
white    ivory 
parts,      each 
being  thick- 
ly     studded 
with  spots  of 
crimson,  and 
having     a 
golden  band  through  its  center. 


LILIUM   AURATUM. 


LILIUM  JAPONICUM   LONGIFLORUM. 


As  the  bulbs  acquire  age  and  strength,  the  flowers  attain  a  very 
large  size,  and  upward  of  a  dozen  are  produced  on  a  single  stem.  As  before  observed,  I  find 
Auratums  grown  on  my  own  grounds  are  fine  and  healthy,  showing  every  sign  of  strength  and 

119 


LILIUM   CANDIDUM. 


vigor.     Plant  in  as  dry  a  place  as  possible,  and  at  least  six  inches  in  depth.     The  bulbs  should 
remain  in  the  ground  several  years  without  removal,  if  possible.     If  good  bulbs  are  planted,  they 

will  generally  bloom  the  first  summer,  and  continue 
to  improve  every  year. 

Japonicum  longiflorum  is  trumpet-shaped,  four 
inches  or  more  in  length,  and  of 
pearly  whiteness.  It  is  perfectly 
hardy  and  healthy.  The  plant  sel- 
dom exceeds  eighteen  inches  in 
height.  Bulbs  small.  It  is  des- 
tined to  become  a  universal  favor- 
ite. The  Longiflorum  bears  forc- 
ing well,  and  therefore  can  be 
grown  in  the  house  where  it  will 
invariably  give  perfect  satisfaction. 
Indeed  it  is  one  of  those  beautiful 
and  useful  flowers  that  we  cannot 
praise  too  highly.  There  are  two 
Lilies  very  similar,  though  larger  and  somewhat  scarce.  Eximium  has  flowers  about  an  inch  or 
two  longer,  and  the  plant  is  somewhat  taller.  Takesima  produces  flowers  about  the  same  size  as 
Eximium,  but  the  plant  is  quite  distinct,  the  flower  stalk  being  purplish. 

Lilium  candidum  is  our  common  white  Lily,  and  we  have  none  more  beautiful.  It  is  hardy 
everywhere,  and  constantly  improves,  throwing  out  new  bulbs,  so  that  after  a  few  years  a  clump  is 
formed  several  feet  in  diameter  and  from  four  to  five  feet  in  height,  giving  a  perfect  mass  of  beau- 
tiful, white,  fragrant  blossoms.  For  floral  decorations  no  flower  excels  this  beautiful  white  Lily, 
and  we  advise  everybody  to  grow  a  clump  of  these  flowers  in  some  corner  of  the  garden,  espe- 
cially for  cutting  for  decorative  purposes.  Was  this  Lily  newly  discovered  it  would  be  very  much 
prized,  and  every  one  would  desire  to  possess  it,  regardless  of  cost,  but  being  old  it  is  too  much 
neglected.  For  this  reason  we  urge  upon  our  readers  the  claims  of  one  of  our  oldest  and  best  friends. 
L.  spedosum  album,  by  some  florists  called  Prascox,  is  a  new  white  Lily  from  Japan,  of  the 
Lancifolium  style,  and  is  far  superior  in  purity  of  color,  size  of  flower  and  vigor  of  plant,  to  the 
old  Lancifolium  album.  In  habit,  the  plant  is  as  robust  as  Rubrum,  but  shorter,  the  flowers 
are  as  large,  but  more  reflexed,  while  they  are  of  the 
purest  white,  the  flower  stem  and  band  in  center  of  petals 
being  pea-green.  Leaves  and  stems  a  very  light,  almost 
transparent  green.  We  have  had  this  variety  in  cultiva- 
tion several  years,  but  our  stock  was  so  small  that  we 
could  not  offer  it  for  sale  until  recently. 

L.  excelsum  is  a  very  delicate  flower,  being  creamy  or 
light  buff,  and  exceedingly  fragrant. 
The  plant  is  vigorous,  blooms  abun- 
dantly, and  is  one  of  the  tallest  of  the 
family.  This  is  the  only  true  buff  Lily 
we  know  of,  and  it  is  a  real  beauty,  a 
.  strong  bulb  throwing  up  a  stem  more 
than  four  feetiin  height,  and  bearing  a 
score  or  more  of  flowers,  of  a  creamy 
buff,  almost  salmon,  reflexed,  and 
about  three  inches  in  diameter. 

L.  Washingtonianum  is  one  of  the 
best  of  the  California  and  Oregon 
Lilies,  *pure  waxy  white,  glossy  as 
though  freshly  varnished,  and  spotted 
with  fine  purple  spots.  The  flowers,  though  perfectly  white  when  they  open,  change  to  pink, 
becoming  darker  each  day,  so  that  flowers  are  seen  on  the  same  plant  of  eveiy  shade  from  white 

iao 


LILIUM    WASHINGTONIANUM. 


LILIUM    HUMBOLDTII. 


to  deep  purplish  pink.        We  have  this  Lily  in  flower,  growing  from  four  to  five  feet  in  height, 
and  bearing  over  twenty  flowers  each.     Flowers  two  inches  in  length  and  the  same  in  breadth. 

The  engravings  show  a  flower  just  opened,  and  also  the 
habit  of  the  plant,  both,  as  in  all  our  Lily  engravings, 
much  reduced.     Having  spent  the  summer  of  1874    in 
California,  mainly  for  the  purpose  of  examining  the  Lilies 
of  the  country,  and  learning  all  we  could  of  their  habits 
and  true  names,  we  feel  prepared  to  offer 
the  Lilies  of  the  Pacific  coast  to  our  cus- 
tomers with  confidence.     The  Washing- 
tonianum  we  have  flowered  for  a  number 
of  years,  and   we   think   our   bulbs    are 
sound  and  healthy,  though  we  would  say 
to  all  to  whom  money  is  an  object,  and 
failure    would    prove    a    disappointment, 
procure  but  one  or  two  of  these  new  Cali- 
fornia Lilies,  just  for  trial.     If  they  suc- 
ceed you  will  be  delighted,  and  if  any  fail 
the   loss  will   not   be   serious.      Set   the 
bulbs  down  not  less  than  six  inches. 

The  Bloomer ianum,  or  Humboldtii,  is  a 
pretty  yellowish  Lily,  with  large  brown  spots,  a  native  of  California,  and  which  we  found  grow- 
ing mostly  in  shady  places  and  near  the  banks  of  running  streams.  It  is  a  very  desirable  Lily. 
About  four  feet  in  height.  It  was  named  Bloomerianum  after  a  worthy  Botanist  of  California, 
our  late  friend  BLOOMER,  by  that  enterprising  and 
whole-souled  collector,  Dr.  KELLOGG,  with  whom 
we  have  spent  many  pleasant  hours ;  but  by  some  it 
is  thought  to  have  been  previously  discovered  by 
ROKZL,  and  named  in  honor  of  Baron  HUMBOLDT. 
Plant  this  and  all  California  Lilies  deep,  certainly 
not  less  than  six  inches,  and  we  think  this  variety 
might  well  be  grown  in  partial  shade.  A  good 
mulching  the  first  season  after  planting  is  very  desir- 
able, not  only  for  this  variety,  but  for  all  the  Lilies. 
We  are  apt  to  think  because  a  plant  is  a  native  of  a 
warm,  dry  country,  that  it  can  endure  any  amount 
of  heat,  but  we  often  find  that  such  plants,  in  a  natural  state,  grow  in  shady  nooks  and  ravines 
and  on  mountain  sides,  constantly  watered  by  cool  springs. 

The  Pardalinum  is  a  California  Lily,  very  much  like  our  Canadense  and  Superbum,  but 
of  clearer  yellow  and  brighter  red.        It  is  a  very  good  small  Lily, 
growing  in  large  clusters,  and  very  handsome.       The  lower  half  of 
each  petal  is  yellow,  spotted  with  brown,  the  upper  half  red,  almost 
,  crimson,  giving  the  flower  a  very  marked  appearance.     The  foliage 
is  lanceolate,  that  is,  very  narrow  lance-shaped  leaves,  and  we  have 
never  seen  a  plant  or  bulb,  or  even  leaf,  that  was  not 
entirely  healthful. 

Lilium  par-vum  is  a  small  California  Lily,  and 
one  of  the  prettiest  very  small  varieties  we  are  ac- 
quainted with.  The  engraving  at  the  left  shows  the 
size  of  the  flower,  which  is  dark  yellow,  ornamented 
with  small  reddish  dots.  The  small  engraving  will 
give  something  of  an  idea  of  the  habit  of  the  plant. 
It  does  not  usually  exceed  eighteen  inches  in  height. 

LILIUM  PARVUM-FLOWER.  PLANT.         It  seems  to  be  perfectly  healthy,  and  we  do   not  re- 

member having  seen  one  sickly  plant  in  a  bed  of  several  thousands. 

121 


LILIUM    PARDALINUM. 


LILIUM   THUNBERGIANUM. 


Although  we  have  had  most  of  the  new  California  Lilies  on  trial  for  a  number  of  years, 
we  have  been  rather  slow  in  introducing  them  to  the  notice  of  our  readers,  for  reasons  previ- 
ously stated.  There  is  great  pleasure  in  testing  comparatively  untried  plants  and  bulbs,  some- 
what the  same  kind  of  feeling  we  experience  in  travel- 
ing a  new  road  or  visiting  a  strange  country.  We  would 
deprive  no  one  of  this  pleasurable  excitement,  yet  we 
cannot  forget  the  fact  that  many  of  our  friends  have  but 
little  money  with  which  to  indulge  their  love  for  the 
beautiful,  and  we  feel  exceedingly  anxious  that  this  little 
should  be  invested  to  the  best  possible  advantage. 

To  three  Lilies  that  are  favorites  with  us  we  wish  to 
call  special  attention.  They  are  Thunbergianum  atrosan- 
guineum  grandiflorum,  Thmi- 
bergianum  atrosanguineum  ful- 
gens  and  Thunbergianum  citri- 
num.  They  are  all  grand 
flowers,  bearing  immense  num- 
bers of  blossoms,  continuing  a 
good  season  in  bloom,  healthy 
and  vigorous,  and  increase  rapid- 
ly in  numbers ;  certainly  an  array 
of  good  qualities  that  should 
recommend  them  to  general  cul- 
ture, and  yet  they  are  not  seen  in 
our  gardens. 

Thunbergianum  atrosanguineum  grandiflorum  is  a  very  robust  plant,  growing  only  about 
thirty  inches  in  height.  The  leaves  are  narrow,  dark  in  color,  thickly  set,  and  no  Lily  we  are 
acquainted  with  makes  a  more  vigorous,  healthy  growth.  The  flowers  are  about  four  inches 
across,  and  are  borne  in  immense  clusters.  The  one  from  which  our  little  engraving  was  taken 
had  twenty  open  flowers  and  as  many  buds.  The  color  is  a  very  deep  red — the  darkest  of  all 
the  red  Lilies. 

Thunbergianum  atrosanguineum  fulgens 
is  like"  the  preceding  in  habit,  a  few  inches 
shorter,  the  clusters  of  flowers  not  quite  so 
large,  while  the  color  is  a  curious  mottling 
or  different  shades  of  red. 

Thunbergianum  citrinum 
grows  only  about  eighteen 
inches  in  height.  The  flowers 
are  generally  larger  than  either 
of  the  two  preceding  varieties, 
and  the  color  we  hardly  know 
how  to  describe.  It  is  some- 
thing between  a  cream  and 
salmon,  and  one  of  the  best 
of  the  light  colored  Lilies. 
The  engravings  of  the  plants 
show  the  comparative  differ- 
ence in  height  between  the  PLANT.  TIGER  LILY. 
Citrinum  and  Atrosanguineum.  The  flower  shows  the  form  of  both,  but  much  reduced  in  size. 

Our  last  engraving  shows  the  old  Tiger  Lily,  that  everybody  knows.  It  is  still  as  good  as 
some  of  the  varieties  we  have  tried,  and  which  are  claimed  to  be  improvements  upon  this  old 
fashioned  flower. 

Our  native  Canadense  or  superbum  is  a  goodly  Lily,  improves  by  cultivation,  and  deserves 
an  honorable  place  in  every  collection  of  Lilies. 

122 


P.SOXY    FLOWER. 


CHINESE    PEONIES. 

The  Chinese  Pseomes  are  so  valuable  on  account  of  their  large  size,  beautiful  coloring  and 
delightful   fragrance,  and  so  entirely  hardy  and  vigorous,  that  I  am  anxious  all  my  customers 

should  have  at  least  a  White  and  a 
Pink  Paeony.  Fragrans  is  one  of 
the  best  Pink  varieties,  but  there 
are  few  exhibitions  that  present  such 
a  wonderful  combination  of  colors 
as  a  bed  of  Pseonies.  The  Pasonies 
are  perfectly  hardy,  never  suffering 
injury  by  cold,  and  will  succeed  in 
any  ground,  unless  so  wet  that  the 
water  will  lay  on  the  surface  in  the 
|  winter  and  spring.  They  may  be 
planted  either  in  the  autumn  or 
spring,  and  are  transported  with 
greater  safety  than  almost  any 
plant  —  not  one  in  a  hundred  fail- 
ing. They  are  also  easily  increased 
by  division  of  the  roots.  A  little 
extra  attention  in  the  way  of  ma- 
nure will  induce  a  vigorous  and 
rapid  growth.  We  do  not  know  of 
anything  that  injures  the  Paeony 
except  starving  in  a  poor  soil  and 
standing  water  during  the  cold  sea- 
son. For  large  floral  decorations  few  of  our  flowers  can  surpass  the  Paeonies.  They  seem 
designed  for  a  grand  display,  without  anything  cheap  or  gaudy  in  their  appearance.  The  large 

engraving  shows  a  flower  about 

one-half  natural    size,  though  it 

must  be    understood   there   is  a 

good  deal   of  difference   in   the 

formation  of  flowers  of  different 

;  varieties.     The  small  cuts  give  a 
pretty  good  idea  of  the  form  and  , 

habit  of  both  plant  and  roots,  the 

drawings  being  taken  from  a  full 

grown    and  vigorous    plant    the 

second  season  after  planting. 
Such  a  growth  must  not  be  expected  the  first  season,  nor  should  flowers  be  looked  for  or  desired. 
Secure  first  a  good  strong  plant,  and  then  flowers  will  come  in  abundance.  Those  who  are  so 
impatient  that  they  will  plant  only  those  things  that  flower  the  first  season  will  never  be  very  suc- 
cessful florists.  Time  passes  swiftly,  and  plants  grow  while  we  work  and  sleep  and  travel. 

VIOLETS. 

The  little  sweet  Violet  is  a  plant  that  we  need  not  describe  very  particularly,  for  it  has  not 
only  made  itself  known,  but  universally 
loved  by  its  sweetness.  A  single  flower 
will  perfume  a  bouquet,  or  a  room,  with  its 
delightful  aroma.  It  is  also  perfectly  hardy 
and  flowers  freely  very  early  in  the  spring. 
The  color  is  blue,  and  our  engraving  shows 

pretty  faithfully  the  habit  of  the  plant  and          I  ^^^M&L^JjIkW          —         V"* 
the    size   and   appearance   of    the   flower.        ^£?      \£<^*Z*SL  \ 

Plants  may  be  set  out  either  in  the  spring  or  autumn,  and  can  be  increased  by  division  when  they 
attain  a  large  size.      The  Violet  flowers  well  in  the  house  in  winter  if  not  kept  too  hot  and  dry. 

123 


P.COXY   PLANT. 


PAEONY   ROOT. 


PERENNIAL  PHLOX. 

Very  few  plants  giv°  such  universal  satisfaction  as  the  Perennial  Phloxes.     In  the  first  place 
they  are  perfectly  hardy,  and  will  come  out  of  any  winter  in  good  healthy  condition  without  the 

loss  of  a  plant.  Then  we  send  them  out  with  perfect  confi- 
dence that  they  will  reach  their  destination  in  just  as  good  con- 
:  dition  as  they  leave  us.  The  flowers,  when  plants  get  strong, 
are  immense  bunches  of  bloom,  from  the  purest  white  to  crim- 
son. Plants  will  keep  increasing  in  size,  and  may  be  divided 
at  the  roots  every  year  or  two.  Half-a-dozen  well  established 
plants,  and  of  well  selected  colors,  is  a  treasure  for  the  garden 
that  every  lover  of  flowers  must  appreciate.  The  Perennial 
Phlox  is  one  of  those  hardy,  useful  and  beautiful  flowers  whose 
culture  we  are  anxious  to  increase,  because  the  expense  and 
trouble  is  but  little,  and  the  result  more  than  satisfactory.  The 
flower  resembles  that  of  the  annual  Phlox,  but  the  clusters  are 
large,  sometimes  forming  majestic  heads  of  bloom.  We  have 
endeavored  to  show  the  appearance  of  the  plant  when  in  bloom 
in  the  little  engraving,  but  we  fear  without  much  success.  When  in  flower  it  is  two  feet  or  more 
in  height.  Seed  does  not  germinate  very  readily,  unless  sown  as  s»on  as  fully  ripe,  or  before. 

DICENTRA    SPECTABILIS. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  the  Dicentra,  natives  of  America,  and  very  pretty  plants,  one  is 
known  commonly  as  Squirrel  Corn,  and  another  as  Dutchman's  Breeches  ; 
but  the  best  of  all  is  D.  spectabilis,  from  Northern  China,  sometimes  called 
Bleeding  Heart,  from  the  heart-like  form  of  the  flower,  and  its  beautiful 
color.      We  well  recollect  the  first  time  we  saw  this  flower,  soon  after  its 
introduction  from  China,  and  that  we  then  thought  it 
the  most  delicate  and  graceful  flower  we  had  ever  seen. 
It  was  then  considered  tender,  and  cultivated  in  conser- 
vatories.      It,    however,    soon    proved   its  right   to   be 
classed  among  our  hardy  plants,  .where  it  has  held  for 
twenty  years  an  honored   position.       The    flowers    are 
heart-shaped,  deep  pink,  a  dozen  or  more  being  borne 
on  a  graceful,  drooping  raceme,  a  foot  or  more  in  length. 
The   Dicentra    is    also    excellent   for    flowering   in   the 
house,  and  furnishes  in  winter  very  agreeable  foliage,  as 
well  as  beautiful  flowers,  and  both  quite  freely.     Plants  may  be  taken  up  and  potted  in  the  autumn. 

IVY    PLANTS. 

For  a  climbing  plant  in  the  garden  to  do  duty  as  a  screen  for  an  old  wall  or  building,  or  to 
adorn  either  when  new,  we  know  of  nothing  in  the  world  equal  to 
the  Ivy — it  is  so  connected  in  our  minds  with  ruined  castles  and 
brilliant  poesy  that  it  seems  to  throw  an  atmosphere  of  grace  and 
beauty  around  every  object  subject  to  its  transforming  and  beauti- 
fying influence.  Unfortunatley  it  does  not  prove  quite  hardy  in 
some  Northern  sections  of  our  country,  when  exposed  on  walls, 
not  that  it  is  injured  by  the  cold,  but  by  our  warm  winter  sunshine. 
On  the  North  or  West  side  of  a  building  it  usually  does  well,  re- 
ceiving less  sun  than  in  other  exposures.  Wherever  the  Ivy  does 
well  we  advise  every  one  to  grow  a  few ;  and  as  the  best  substitute, 
we  recommend  our  beautiful  Virginia  Creeper,  which  is  much  more 
highly  prized  in  Europe  than  in  America.  For  in-door  winter 
decoration  the  Ivy  is  unequalled,  as  it  can  be  trained  in  any  de- 
sired form,  one  style  being  shown  in  the  engraving,  and  will  bear 
more  hardships  and  bad  usage  than  any  plant  we  are  acquainted 
with.  Strong  roots  with  branches  from  one  to  five  feet  in  length  should  be  planted. 

124 


YUCCAS. 

The  Yuccas  are  a  striking  class  of  plants,  with  long,  narrow,  strong,  sharp-pointed  leaves, 
and  a  peculiar  tropical  aspect.        Filamentosa  is  the  hardiest,  and  we  think  will  endure  almost 

any  of  our  Northern  winters. 
It  is  called  Adam's  Needle, 
because  the  leaves  are 
sharply  pointed  and  throw 
off  from  their  edges  numer- 
ous fine  threads.  It  sends 
up  a  strong  flower-stem  in 
the  middle  of  the  summer, 
bearing  a  large  spike  of 
whitish  flowers.  The  Yucca 
is  an  evergreen  perennial 
and  delights  in  a  rich  soil. 
We  usually  throw  over  the 
plants  a  few  evergreen 
boughs  or  something  of  the 
kind,  as  a  slight  winter  pro- 
tection. We  call  attention  to  this  old  plant  with  a  good  deal  of 
confidence,  feeling  assured  that  it  will  more  than  meet  the  expec- 
tations of  our  readers.  Our 
engravings  show  the  plant 
in  flower,  and  the  tuberous 
root. 

There  are  other  varieties 
of  Yucca  well  worthy  of 
culture,  but  none  so  hardy 

and  desirable  for  a  Northern  climate  as  Filamentosa,  which  we 
have  figured.  Yucca  gloriosum  superbum  we  have  grown  pretty  well,  and,  of  course,  further 
South  this  and  the  more  tender  varieties  do  well.  It  is  at  the  North,  however,  where  plants  with 
an  oriental  or  tropical  appearance  are  so  scarce  and  delightful  that  the  Yucca  is  most  prized  and 
most  needed.  For  this  reason  we  have  said  a  good  word  in  behalf  of  the  Yucca,  a  favor  we 
have  done  before  for  the  Ricinus  and  Canna,  and  for  the  same  reason.  It  is  surprising  how 
much  real  beauty  we  can  get  for  very  little  labor,  and  at  a  trifling  expense,  by  giving  a  little 
attention  to  the  habits  of  plants  and  their  adaptation  to  circumstances.  We  once  saw  a  circular 
bed  on  a  lawn  filled  with  our  common  Maize,  and  thought  it  very  beautiful,  but  it  was  in  a 
country  where  a  field  of  Corn  was  never  seen. 

ASTILBE     JAPONICA. 

The  Astilbe  yaponica  is  a  comparatively  new  plant,  and  as  useful  as  it  is  elegant.  The  plant 
is  dwarfish,  seldom  more  than  two  feet  in  height,  with  large 
feathery  trusses  of  veiy  small  whitish  flowers,  which  will  be 
found  exceedingly  useful  for  all  ornamental  work,  while  the 
whole  plant,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  engraving,  is  itself  quite 
elegant.  There  are  few  plants  that  the  florist  can  force  for 
winter  bloom  that  will  make  him  a  better  return,  while  the 
amateur  will  find  it  pleasant,  both  in  form,  foliage  and  flowers. 
For  forcing,  the  roots  should  be  planted  in  a  seven  inch  pot  in 
the  autumn,  and  plunged  out  of  doors  till  about  the  first  of  Jan- 
uary, then  bring  them  into  the  house,  giving  plenty  of  light  and 
heat.  The  flowers  are  much  larger  and  purer  in  color  when 
grown  in  the  house  than  they  are  in  the  open  ground,  but  it  is  a 
good  plant  everywhere,  and  those  who  culivate  it  will  thank  us 
for  the  good  character  we  have  given  it. 

125 


THE    LILY    OF    THE    VALLEY. 

We  propose  now  to  introduce  to  the  attention  of  our  readers  a  sweet  little  flower  admirably 

adapted  both  for  winter  blooming  and  out-door  culture, 
and  yet  we  seldom  see  this  little  favorite,  even  in  large 
collections.  One  reason  of  this,  we  suppose,  is  that  its 
management  has  not  been  generally  understood.  A 
portion  of  the  buds  produce  only  leaves,  and,  of  course, 
if  these  are  planted  disappointment  is  the  result.  Florists 
now  keep  for  sale  well  matured  buds,  or  pips,  as  now 
called,  the  appearance  of  which  we  have  shown  in  the 
engraving.  They  can  be  purchased  for  sixty  cents  a 
dozen,  or  rather,  brought  to  your  post-office  for  that  price. 
These  may  be  planted  from  three  to  half  a  dozen  in  a 
pot,  according  to  its  size.  Keep  them  in  a  tolerably  warm 
place,  never  allowing  them  to  suffer  for  water,  and  if 
somewhat  dark,  just  as  well  for  a  week  or  two.  Then 
bring  them  to  the  light.  In  about  four  or  five  weeks  from 
potting  flowers  will  be  produced.  By  placing  a  little 
moss  around  the  lower  part  of  the  pips,  and  then  plant- 
ing them,  they  can  be  grown  in 
boxes  by  the  dozen,  and  then 
removed  to  any  fancy  pots,  or 
baskets,  or  vases,  where  it  is 
desirable  they  should  flower. 
Indeed,  they  can  be  grown  in 
moss  entirely,  just  as  well  as 
in  earth,  as  they  make  little  or 
no  root  before  flowering,  and, 
of  course,  can  be  put  into  glasses 
of  water,  and,  in  fact,  be 
handled  as  they  are  about  to 
come  into  flower  in  almost  any 
way  to  suit  the  convenience  of 
the  grower. 

As  the  pips  are  not'  injured 
by  frost,  and  are  small,  they  can 
be  sent  by  mail  with  safety  any 
time  during  the  winter,  and  by 

procuring  a  dozen  and  making  four  plantings,  two  weeks  apart,  flowers  can  be  secured  during  a 

long  season.     Keep  the  pips  in  a  cool,  moist  place  until  planted,  covered  with  moss  or  saw-dust. 

The  engraving  shows  a  pot  with  a  little  group  of  the  Lily  of  the  Valley  in  flower.      The  name 

of  the  Lily  of  the  Valley  is  Convallaria  majalis. 


PLANTS    INSTEAD    OF    SEEDS. 

In  addition  to  the  plants  already  noticed,  there  are  a  few  that  we  have  described  in 
our  list  of  plants  to  be  grown  from  seed,  that  some  people  prefer  to  obtain  in  a  more  speedy  way, 
and  therefore  like  to  procure  plants  that  will  flower  the  first  season.  This  is  the  case  with  the 
GARDEN  PINKS,  CARNATIONS  and  PICOTEES.  Good  plants  of  either,  set  out  in  the  spring,  will 
flower  freely  during  the  summer,  and  will  also  furnish  layers  for  new  plants.  Plants  of  the 
DAISY,  also,  can  be  obtained,  either  spring  or  autumn,  and  generally  with  flowers  and  buds, 
for  the  Daisy  gives  its  best  flowers  in  fall  and  spring,  and  does  not  object  to  removal. 
The  HOLLYHOCK,  too,  many  are  so  anxious  to  obtain  that  they  prefer  plants  to  seeds.  In 
the  north,  plant  only  in  the  spring.  Almost  every  one  prefers  plants  of  that  beautiful  grass, 
ERIANTHUS  RAVENNA.  That  useful  Climber,  the  PERENNIAL  PEA,  grows  rapidly  from  strong  roots. 

126 


HARDY  BULB  S 


All  our  readers  have  heard  of  HOLLAND,,  sometimes  called  Hardy  Bulbs,  but  few  would  be 
able  to  give  a  list  entitled  to  the  name,  and  we  do  not  know  that  we  could  make  a  correct  one. 
These  Holland  Bulbs  did  not  originate  in  that  country,  but  the  good  Hollanders  have  almost 
monopolized  their  culture  for  so  many  years,  doubtless  to  their  own  profit  and  the  good  of  the 
world,  that  the  name  has  been  conceded,  by  general  consent,  to  a  class  of  Bulbs  of  which  the 
Hyacinth,  Tulip  and  Crocus  are  the  leading  members.  With  few  minor  exceptions  these  Bulbs 
require  to  be  planted  in  the  autumn,  and  are  admirably  adapted  for  winter  culture  in  the  house. 
In  many  sections  of  our  country  the  winters  are  long,  unpleasant,  and,  of  course,  tedious.  For 
full  half  the  year  no  flower,  not  even  a  green  leaf,  is  found  to  cheer  the  long  gloom.  While  all 
is  cold  and  sterile  without,  with  a  little  care  and  skill,  and  at  a  trifling  expense,  we  can  make  our 
homes  cheerful,  have  buds  and  blossoms  and  emerald  leaves  every  day  from  November  until 
May,  make  our  own  little  summers,  and  thus  rob  winter  of  half  its  tediousness.  We  shall 
endeavor  to  show  how  this  can  be  done. 

THEIR     CULTURE. 

Those  who  desire  a  show  of  what  is  known  as  Holland  Bulbs  in  the  spring  must  SECURE 
THE  BULBS  A.ND  PLANT  IN  THE  AUTUMN.  Thousands  when  they  see 
a  fine  display  of  Hyacinths  and  Tulips  in  the  gardens  of  their  neighbors, 

in  the  early  Spring,  resolve 
to  have,  at  least,  a  few  next 
year ;  but  the  matter  is  for- 
gotten until  the  Spring  flow- 
ers remind  them  of  their 
neglect.  Any  garden  soil 
will  grow  Bulbs  well;  but  it 
must  be  drained,  so  that  water 
will  not  lie  on  the  surface  for  ' 
any  length  of  time,  or  the 
Bulbs  will  be  likely  to  rot. 
After  planting,  and  before 
winter  sets  in,  cover  the  beds 
with  a  good  dressing  of 
leaves  —  say  five  or  six  inches 
in  depth,  or  more.  Over 
these  throw  a  little  brush,  or 
I  earth,  or  manure,  to  prevent 
blowing  off.  If  the  leaves 
cannot  be  obtained  readily, 
coarse  manure  will  answer. 
In  the  spring,  rake  o<T  the  covering,  taking  off  about  half  at  first,  and  then  waiting  a  week  before 
removing  the  remainder.  Make  beds  so  narrow  that  the  weeds  can  be  destroyed  as  they  appear, 
and  without  walking  among  the  plants.  Any  breaking  or  wounding  of  the  leaves  causes 
injury  to  the  Bulb,  but  flowers  can  be  cut  at  pleasure,  and  all  should  be  removed  as  they  fade. 

127 


FI.OWEHINtr   BULBS   IN   WATER. 


By  the  exercise  of  a  little  taste  a  world  of  pleasure  can  be  derived  from  the  cultivation  of 
Bulbs  in  the  house,  as  they  can  be  used  in  almost  innumerable  ways.  Hyacinths,  Narcissus 
and  Crocuses  may  be  grown  in  glasses  of  water,  and  our  engravings  show  a  few  of  the  simpler 

forms  of  glasses.     Pot  culture,  for  general  use,  however,  is  quite 

as  pretty,  and  a  little  more  natural. 

The    Due    Van    Thol    Tulips    are 

excellent   for   pots;    indeed,    many 

of    the    Early    Single   varieties    are 

suitable    for   house    culture.       Our 

engravings  show  two  pots  of  these 

flowers.  A  very  pretty  arrange- 
ment is  to  plant  a  variety  of  Bulbs 

in  baskets  or  boxes.     Any  one  can 

secure  such  a  box  without  any  cost, 

and  it  can  be  made  ornamental  by 

attaching  a  few  sticks  or  pieces  of 

bark  to  the  front  and  sides,  as  shown 

in  the   engraving  below.      Fill  the 

box  with  sandy  soil,  and  if  a  little 


BULBS   IN   POTS. 


TULIPS   IN   POTS. 


moss  broken  up  finely  is  mixed  with  the  soil  it  will  keep  it  from  becoming  packed  or  heavy  from 
frequent  watering.  The  box  can  then  be  planted  with  Bulbs,  all  of  one  kind  or  different  kinds 
—  planting  those  that  grow  the  highest  in  the  center,  and  the  low  growing  kinds  on  the  edges. 

Another  very  good  plan  is  to  have  a  box,  similar  to  the  one  described,  as  a  kind  of  little 
nursery,  or  reserve.  Fill  it  almost  entirely  with  broken  up  moss,  with  a  very  little  sandy  soil. 
Plant  this  with  Crocuses,  Hyacinths,  &c.,  and  keep  it  in  any  convenient,  pretty  cool  room, 
where  it  will  not  freeze.  As  fast  as  the  plants  come  into  flower  you  can  take  them  up  and 
place  them  in  glasses  of  water,  and  thus  keep  up  a  supply  for  the  parlor  or  sitting  room  for  a 
long  time.  If  preferred,  these  Bulbs,  when  in  flower,  can  be  placed  in  pots  or  baskets  filled  with 
damp  moss.  In  fact,  they  can  be  used  in  almost  any  way  desired,  and  will  be  found  to  produce 
the  greatest  satisfaction,  furnishing  flowers  for  a  long  time.  If  placed  in  moss,  it  must  be  kept 
constantly  moist  or  the  flowers  will  suffer.  Bulbs,  when  flowered  in  the  house,  should  be  kept 
in  as  moderately  cool  a  room  as  pos- 
sible. If  placed  in  a  living  room, 
which  is  kept  at  the  usual  temperature 
of  such  rooms,  from  70  to  75  degrees, 
they  will  bloom  too  early,  and  the 
flowers  will  soon  fade.  A  good  ar- 
rangement is  to  keep  them  in  a  parlor, 
'or  some  spare  room,  not  frequently 
used,  and  which  is  usually  kept  pretty 
cool.  They  will  then  mature  slowly 
and  keep  in  perfection  a  long  time.  A 
few  may  be  brought  into  the  sitting- 
room,  placed  on  the  dining  table  occasionally,  or  may  be  even  taken  to  church,  for  special  occa- 
sions, when  floral  decorations  may  be  needed,  and  returned  to  their  places  as  soon  as  possible. 
In  this  way  a  bulb  can  be  made  to  do  long  service.  Nearly  all  failures,  I  think,  result  from 
keeping  plants  in  too  dry  an  atmosphere  and  too  high  a  temperature. 

TIME  OF  BLOOMING.  —  We  are  often  asked  when  Hyacinths  will  bloom ;  can  we  have 
flowers  by  Christmas?  The  request  often  accompanying  orders  is,  send  me  the  early  kinds, 
so  that  I  can  soon  have  flowers.  Now,  the  truth  is,  there  is  but  a  week  or  two  of  difference 
between  the  time  of  flowering  of  the  early  and  late  sorts,  and  none  except  the  little  White 
Roman  will  bloom  by  the  holidays,  with,  perhaps,  an  exceptional  case.  The  Hyacinth 
needs  a  long  season  of  rest,  and  does  not  become  anxious  to  grow  until  about  the  first  of 
December,  and  this  desire  increases  as  time  advances.  A  Hyacinth  planted  the  first  of  Novem- 
l>er  will  go  along  moderately,  and  will  take  nearly  three  months  in  blooming.  The  same 

128 


SLLNlATUKJi    BULB     GARDEN. 


Bulb,  if  kept  out  of  the  ground,  in  a  cold  and  moist  place,  so  that  vitality  is  not  weakened, 
and  planted  in  January,  will  flower  in  thirty  or  forty  days.  The  Hollanders  informed  us  that 
the  best  way  to  force  early  flowers  is  to  pot  the  bulbs  as  early  as  possible,  sink  the  pots  in  the  earth 
in  the  garden,  so  that  the  bulbs  will  be  covered  several  inches,  and  there  let  them  remain  a  couple 
ef  weeks  or  more.  Then  remove  to  the  green-house  or  room  where  they  are  to  flower,  giving 
warmth,  air  and  moisture  pretty  freely. 

SUPPORT  FOR  HYACINTHS. — When  in  flower,  the  tall  Hyacinths  need  some 
support  for  the  flower  stem,  and  various  contrivances  of  wire,  &c.,  have  been 
devised,  but  we  have  seen  nothing  so  simple  and  effective  as  we  show  in  the 
engraving.  It  is  made  of  hard  wood  and  fastened  to  the  neck  of  the  glass  by 
a  string.  Any  one,  in  a  few  minutes,  with  a  sharp  knife,  can  make  this  sup- 
port. A  brass  or  other  wire  can  also  be  attached  to  the  glass  very  readily. 

BULBS  IN  THE  GARDEN. — Nothing  makes  a  prettier  bed  in  the  garden  than 
Hyacinths  and  Tulips.  For  a  ribbon  bed  composed  of  three  or  more  colors, 
we  know  of  nothing  that  excels  the  Tulip. 

CARE  OF  BULBS  AFTER  FLOWERING. — When  Bulbs  have  been  flowered  in 
water,  they  should,  as  soon  as  the  flowers  begin  to  fade,  be  removed  and 
I  planted  in  earth,  where  they  will  get  a  little  nourishment  for  the  future  good 
of  the  Bulb.  Even  then  the  Bulb  is  much  weakened,  and  it  is  useless  to  try 
to  flower  Bulbs  in  water  twice,  though  they  will  answer  for  the  garden. 

All  Bulbs  with  annual  roots,  which  includes  pretty  much  all  but  the  Lilies, 
can  be  taken  up,  as  soon  as  the  leaves  become  ripe  and  brown,  and  be  stowed 
away  without  the  least  injury  to  the  flowers  of  the  next  season,  because  the 
;  roots  will  die  if  the  Bulbs  are  allowed  to  remain  in  the  ground.  After  taking 
I  them  up,  allow  them  to  dry  in  the  shade  for  a  few  days.  Then  remove  the 
tops,  roots  and  rough  skin,  and  put  them  away  in  paper  bags,  properly  labelled, 
in  a  cool  place  in  the  house  until  planting  time  in  the  Autumn.  Look  at  them 
i  occasionally  during  the  summer  to  see  that  they  are  receiving  no  injury.  If 
HrxciNTH  SUPPORT  the  beds  are  needed  for  other  plants,  so  as  to  have  a  continuous  show  of 
flowers,  the  plants  can  be  set  when  young  between  the  rows  of  Bulbs,  and  before  the  space  is 
needed  by  the  new  crop  the  Bulbs  will  have  ripened  their  leaves,  and  will  receive  no  injury  from 
the  new  occupants,  and  the  old  Bulbs  can  remain  in  the  ground.  They  may,  however,  be  removed 
as  soon  as  flowering  is  over  and  replanted  in  some  corner  of  the  garden,  there  to  remain  until 
ripe,  or  until  time  for  planting  in  the  beds  again  in  Autumn.  Hyacinths  gradually  deteriorate  in 
this  country,  but  Tulips  and  almost  all  other  Bulbs  retain  their  good  character  and  increase  in  number. 

HYACINTHS. 

THE  HYACINTH  is  the  most  beautiful  and  fragrant  and  popular  of  the  Bulbous  flowers,  and 
seems  particularly  designed  for  house  culture.  It  is  cultivated  in  every  Northern  country  in  the 
world,  where  it  does  more  than  any  other  flower  to  make  winter  cheerful.  A  very  small  pot 
will  answer  for  the  Hyacinth,  but  some  prefer  to  plant  three  or  four  in  a  large  pot,  and  this 
makes  a  very  pretty  ornament.  Fill  the  pot  with  sandy,  porous  soil.  Make  a  space  in  the 
soil  for  the  bulb,  so  that  it  will  be  about  half  below  the  earth,  then  press  the  bulb  down  so  that  it 
will  just  show  its  upper  surface  above  the  soil,  then  water,  giving  all  the  earth  will  hold.  The 
pots  can  now  be  set  away  in  a  cool,  dark  cellar  for  several  weeks,  where  they  will  make  roots,  but 
the  top  will  advance  but  little.  By  removing  a  few  at  a  time  into  a  warm,  light  room,  something 
of  a  succession  can  be  kept  up.  When  we  speak  of  a  warm  room  for  bulbs  we  do  not  mean  75 
or  80  degrees,  but  less  than  70,  if  possible. 

When  placed  in  glasses  for  winter  flowering  the  base  of  the  bulb  should  just  touch  the  water; 
it  will  soon  evaporate  so  that  the  water  is  a  little  below  the  base  of  the  bulb,  and  this  is  as  it  should 
be.  Set  them  away  in  a  cool  place,  as  recommended  for  Hyacinths  in  pots.  As  soon  as 
flower  buds  appear,  sprinkling  the  leaves  and  buds  is  of  benefit,  and  give  plenty  of  light  and 
air,  and  as  moist  an  atmosphere  as  possible.  No  Hyacinth  can  do  itself  justice  if  flowered  in  a 
room  ranging  from  seventy-five  to  eighty  degrees,  and  dry  as  veil  as  hot. 

A  good  plan  is  to  keep  a  stand  containing  the  stock  of  Hyacinths  in  a  parlor  or  hall,  which 
is  kept  most  of  the  time  at  a  low  temperature.  From  this  room  they  can  be  taken  as  needed 

129 


—  one  or  two  of  each  color  —  to  the  sitting,  or  the  dining-room,  for  special  occasions,  hut  always 

returned  to  their  cool  quarters  for  the  night.      By  this  method  they  not  only  flower  well,  but  keep 

in  bloom  a  long  time.  Change  the  water  occasionally,  if 
it  becomes  discolored.  The  choice  named  varieties  grow 
best  in  glasses  and  pots,  and  single  are  more  reliable 
than  double  sorts  for  house-culture,  while  they  are  in  every 
respect  as  desirable.  Some  of  the  double  sorts  do  well  in 
the  house,  but  the  selection  of  varieties  should  be  left  to 
those  who  have  some  knowledge  of  their  habits. 

Hyacinths  should  be  planted  in  the  garden  in  Septem- 
ber, October  or  November.  For  beds  of  early  flowers 
on  the  lawn,  nothing  excels  the  Hyacinth.  Where  beds 
are  small  and  so  near  together  that  they  can  all  be  seen  at 
once,  it  is  well  to  fill  each  one  with  a  separate  color. 
Plant  Hyacinths  in  the  garden  from  three  to  four  inches 
below  the  surface  of  the  soil,  and  in  ground  likely  to  be 
much  affected  by  freezing  and  thawing,  be  sure  to  give  a 
i  good  covering  before  severe  frosts.  Hyacinth  flowers  may 
i  be  cut  freely,  without  injury  to  the  bulbs.  Indeed,  all  flower 
stalks  should  be  removed  as  soon  as  the  flowers  begin  to 
fade.  In  about  five  or  six  weeks  after  flowering,  and  when 
the  leaves  are  becoming  yellow,  the  bulbs  may  be  taken 
up,  dried,  and 
packed  away 
iii  paper  bags 
or  boxes,  for 
planting  again 
in  the  fall.  If 
the  beds  are 
needed  for 
other  flowers, 
as  is  generally 

the   case,  the  bulbs   may  be  removed   in   about  two 

weeks  after  the  flowers  have  faded.     In  this  case,  after 

removing  the  flower  stems,  if  this  has  not  been  done 

before,  place  the  bulbs  on  a  dry  bed  in  the  garden,  and 

cover   them  with   a   little   earth,  leaving  the   leaves 

exposed.     Here  they  can  remain  until  the  leaves  have 

ripened,  when  they  are  ready  to  be  packed  away  for 

fall   planting,   or    can  remain  where  they  are  until 

needed. 

Hyacinths  will  usually  commence  flowering  in  this 

latitude  the  latter  part  of  April,  and  by  choosing  the 

Early  and  Late  varieties,  a  good  show  of  blossoms 

can  be  secured  for  about  three  weeks  if  the  weather 

is  not  too  hot  and  dry.     The  Late  varieties  are  mostly ; 

double,  and  are  from  one  to  two  weeks  later  than  the 

Early  sorts.     The  Low  sorts  throw  up  a  stem  five  or 

six  inches  in  height,  and  the  trusses  are  usually  globu- 
lar and  compact.     The  Tall  sorts  have  a  flower  stem 

from  six  to  ten   inches  or  more  in  height,  and   the 

trusses  are  usually  more  loose.       The  Roman  Hyacinth  is  a  very  early  flowering,  white  variety, 

that  comes  into  bloom  about  the  Holidays,  and  therefore  is  very  popular  with  florists  for  cut  flowers. 

The  spikes  are  small,  the  flowers  somewhat  scattering,  but  each  bulb  gives  several  spikes,  usually. 

130 


SINGLE   HYACINTH. 


DOUBLE   HYACINTH. 


Hyacinths  differ  in  habit  very  much,  some  varieties  throwing  up  a  strong  flower  stalk, 
•with  a  bold  and  rather  loose  truss,  while  others  have  but  a  short  stem  with  a  compact,  almost 
globular  truss.  The  stronger  growing  kinds  generally  have  larger 
bells,  while  those  of  a  more  dwarf  habit  present  small  bells  in 
immense  numbers.  The  low  growing  kinds  often  throw  up  two  or 
moro  flower  stems.  The  bright  red  co.ors  are  all  low,  with  a  com- 
pact truss,  and  disposed  to  throw  up  several  flower  stalks.  Our  artist 
has  attempted  to  show  the  difference  of  habit,  and  while  not  with 
very  flattering  success,  sufficient,  perhaps,  for  our  present  purpose. 


ROMAN   HYACINTH. 


DOUBLE  TALL. 


SINGLE     TALL. 


The  Hyacinth  is  a  native  of  the  East,  abounding  in  parts  of  Turkey  and  Syria.  It  has  been, 
however,  cultivated  for  nearly  two  hundred  years  in  England.  For  a  long  time,  blue  and  pink 
were  the  only  colors,  and  the  rich,  deep  red  and  the  yellow  are  of  somewhat  recent  introduction. 
Of  the  latter  color  we  have  not  much  yet  to  boast,  for  we  do  not  know  of  any  clear,  bright 
yellow  Hyacinth.  To  the  Hollanders 
we  arc  indebted  for  nearly  all  the  im- 
provement made  in  this  beautiful  flow- 
er. The  florists  of  Holland  have  almost 
entirely  monopolized  the  culture  of 
Hyacinths,  and  their  skill  is  only  equal- 
ed by  their  success ;  though,  doubtless, 
a  remarkable  soil  and  climate  have 
much  to  do  in  securing  to  the  good 
people  of  Holland  the  exclusive  culture 
of  this  most  popular  of  our  winter 
flowers. 

Hyacinth  growers  like  a  single, 
clean  stem,  and  it  would  not  be  ortho- 
dox to  say  that  anything  else  is  desirable, 
but  "  really  and  truly,"  some  of  the  pret- 
tiest objects  we  have  ever  seen  have 
been  Hyacinths,  which,  against  all  rule 
and  order,  have  thrown  up  four  or  five 
flower  stems,  forming  a  mass  of  bloom 
truly  gorgeous.  Our  engraving  shows 
one  with  nine  spikes  of  flowers,  grown 
by  J.  FISHBACK,  Esq.,  of  Jacksonville, 
Illinois.  May  all  our  readers  meet  with  HYACINTH  WITH  NINE  FLOWER  STEMS. 

success  in  the  culture  of  this  beautiful  flower.  With  care,  there  is  no  reason  why  one  should 
fail.  There  will  be  occasional  disappointments,  as  there  are  in  all  the  business  and  pleasures  of 
life;  but  no  one  should  be  satisfied  with  general  failure,  nor  expect  uninterrupted  success. 

131 


TULIPS. 

THE  TULIP  is  so  perfectly  hardy,  flourishes  so  well  under  the  most  ordinary  care,  and  is  so 
varied  and  brilliant,  that  it  never  fails  to  give  the  greatest  satisfaction.  I  sell  but  very  few  bulbs 
with  so  much  pleasure  as  the  Tulips,  because  I  feel  sure  they  will  be  more  than  satisfactory.  The 
Tulip  is  dashing  and  showy,  of  the  most  brilliant  and  varied  and  deli- 
cate coloring,  and  desirable  even  as  single  specimens,  but  it  is  when 
grown  in  masses  that  the  finest  effect  is  produced.  Nothing  in  the 
floral  world  can  equal  the  dazzling  brilliancy  and  gorgeousness  of  a 
bed  of  good  Tulips.  The  early  varieties  are  excellent  for  house  culture. 
Any  good  garden  soil  will  do  for  the  Tulip.  A  very  rich  soil  is 
not  necessary,  though  well  rotted  manure,  rotted  sods,  or  leaf-mold 
may  be  applied  when  the  earth  is  poor.  See  that  the  drainage  is 
good  before  planting.  Plant  in  October 
and  November.  Make  the  soil  fine  and 
deep.  Set  the  Early  flowering  kinds  five 
inches  apart,  and  the  Late  varieties  six 
inches.  Cover  three  inches  deep.  After 
Tulips  have  done  flowering  they  can  be 

DUO  VAN  THOL  TULIP.  taken  up  and  planted  close  together  in 
any  corner  of  the  garden  until  it  is  time  to  replant  in  the  beds  in  the 
autumn,  or  Verbenas  or  other  bedding  plants  can  be  set  out  between 
the  rows,  and  before  they  cover  the  ground  the  leaves  of  the  Tulips 
will  be  sufficiently  ripe  to  be  removed,  and  the  ground  raked  off. 

Tulips  are  divided  into  two  general  classes,  EARLY  and  LATE, 
and  these  again  into  several  others.  The  earliest  Tulips  flower  in  this 
latitude  the  latter  part  of  April,  and  by  a  proper  selection  of  early  and 
late  sorts  a  good  display  can  be  kept  up  for  more  than  a  month,  if  the 
weather  proves  tolerably  cool  and  moist. 

Early  Tulips.  —  The  earliest  of  the  early  class  is  the  Due  VAN 

THOL,  single  and  double. 
They  are  in  bloom  here  in 
April.  The  single  varieties 

white,  yellow,  scarlet,  crimson,  etc.,  growing  about  six 
inches  in  height,  and  make  brilliant,  dazzling  beds.  They 
are  also  excellent  for  flowering  in  the  house  during  the 
winter,  three  or  four  in  a  pot.  The  double  variety  is  about 
the  same  height,  red,  bordered  with  yellow.  We  recom- 
mend those  not  acquainted  with  them  to  try  a  few  Due 
Van  Thols  for  winter  flowering  in  pots,  or  boxes,  or  bas- 
kets. Let  the  soil  be  very  sandy,  and  if  mixed  with  a 
little  moss,  all  the  better. 

The  TOURNESOL  follows  the  Due  Van  Thol,  with  very 
large,  double  flowers,  keeping  in  bloom  a  long  time,  and 
very  desirable  in  all  respects.  Two  varieties,  orange 
and  red,  and  very  fine  yellow.  Good  for  pot  culture 
in  winter. 

Following  the  Tournesol,  is  a  large  class  of  SINGLE 
EARLY  TULIPS,  containing  very  many  splendid  varieties. 
They  flower  early,  before  the  sun  becomes  very  hot,  and 
hence  continue  in  perfection  longer  than  later  kinds. 
These  can  always  be  depended  upon  for  a  brilliant  and 
DOUBLE  TULIP.  enduring  bed.  No  class  of  Tulips  will  give  greater  satis- 

faction.     These,  like  the  two  preceding  kinds,  will  give  great  satisfaction  grown  in  pots  in  the 
house.        For  bedding  in  masses,  and  especially  for  the  formation  of  ribbon  beds,  these  Single 

Early  Tulips  are  unsurpassed. 

182 


SINGLE  EARLY  TULIP. 

are    of    fine    colors  — 


Double  Tulips. — The  DOUBLE  TULIPS  are  becoming  more  popular  every  year,  and  this 
popularity  is  not  undeserved.  Some  are  beautifully  formed,  with  delicate  shades  and  stripes; 
others  are  as  large  and  brilliant  as  the  old  Pseony ;  while  others  of  equal  size  are  fine  yellow, 

rose,  white,  etc.     The  list  of  named  varieties,  pos- 
sessing more  or  less  distinctness,  is  quite  large. 

Parrot  Tulips.  — The  PARROT  TULIPS  are  ex- 
ceedingly brilliant.  The  petals  are  long,  loose  and 
fringed.  Most  varieties  have  three  or  four  colors, 
as  crimson,  yellow,  orange  and  green;  and  the 
effect  of  such  a  mingling  of  bright  colors  may  be 
imagined.  Those  who 
plant  the  Parrots,  and 
are  unacquainted  with 
them,  will  be  surprised 
at  their  gay  appearance. 
Late  Tulips.  —  Of 
the  LATE  TULIPS  there  i 
are  many  varieties,  the  I 
distinction  between  each 
more  or  less  clearly  de- 
fined. These  are  the 
great  favorites  with  flor- 

PARKOT  TULIP.  ists  the  world  over,  and 

are  truly  magnificent,  with  tall,  stately  stems,  usually  eighteen  inches  in  height,  and  large,  well- 
formed,  highly  colored  cups.  The  Late  Tulips  are  divided  into  Bizarres,  Byblooms  and  Roses. 
The  Bizarres  have  yellow  ground,  marked  with  any  other  color.  Byblooms  have  white  ground, 
marked  with  purple  and  violet.  Roses  have  white  ground,  marked  or  variegated  with  rose, 
scarlet,  crimson  or  cherry.  I  have  some  two  hundred  named  varieties  of  this  class,  but  many  do 
not  differ  very  materially  from  others  of  a  different  name,  though  all  are  exceedingly  fine. 

The  engraving  shows  the  general  appearance  of  the  Tulip  Bulb,  though  the  varieties  differ  a 
good  deal  in  form.  A  full  sized  bulb,  when  planted  in  the  autumn,  blossoms  the  coming 
spring.  The  bulb  planted  decays,  flowering  but  once,  and  gives  place  to  one  or  more  new  bulbs, 
that  will  bloom  the  next  spring.  These  may  be  taken  up  or  allowed  to  remain  in  the  ground. 
As  the  new  bulb  has  no  roots,  removal  does  not  injure  flowering  in  the  least,  though  unless 


TULIP  BULB. 


1>UC   VAN  THOL.          SINGLE   EARLY.  DOUBLE.  LATE   SHOW.  PARROT. 

replanted  pretty  early  in  the  autumn,  those  that  are  allowed  to  remain  in  the  ground  flower  a 
few  days  earlier.     This  is  true  of  Hyacinths  and  all  bulbs  that  are  taken  up  and  dried. 

We  give  the  accompanying  small  sketches  of  Tulips  when  in  flower,  to  show  the  habits  of  the 
different  classes.  They  are  as  correct  as  we  can  give  in  so  small  a  space,  though  different 
varieties  in  the  same  class  often  show  quite  a  difference  in  habit. 

We  have  endeavored  to  give  pretty  full  descriptions  of  the  Tulip,  and  simple  directions  for 
culture,  and  if  further  information  is  needed  on  any  point,  we  shall  be  happy  to  furnish  the  desired 
facts  in  the  FLORAL  GUIDE,  where  we  answer  all  inquiries.  The  large  engravings  showing  the 
cut  flowers  are  about  one-half  the  natural  size. 

183 


CROCUS. 

THE  CROCUSES  are  very  interesting  flowers,  delicate  and  tasteful  in  form,  and  varied  and  gay 
in  color.  They  begin  to  throw  up  their  leaves  before  the  frost  is  fairly  gone,  and  in  sheltered 
situations  in  this  latitude  will  flower  in  March,  though  early  in  April  is  their  season  of  greatest 
beauty.  For  several  weeks,  and  until  the  flowering  of  the  Hyacinth, 
through  the  most  changeable  and  unpleasant  of  the  spring  weather,  the 
garden  depends  upon  the  Crocus  almost  alone  for  its  brightness. 

Crocuses  must  be  planted  in  the  autumn.  Set  the  bulbs  about  three 
inches  apart  and  cover  with  not  less  than  two  inches  of  earth.  Before 
winter  sets  in,  cover  the  bed  with  a  little  straw,  coarse  manure,  or  other 
litter,  to  prevent  the  bulbs  being  thrown  out  by  the  frost.  The  Crocus  will 
flower  well  in  the  house  in  winter  —  half  a  dozen  or  more  in  a  little  pot  — 
or  in  baskets  of  moss,  or  in  any  other  way  that  good  taste  may  suggest. 
The  bulbs  may  be  set  so  close  as  almost  to  touch  each  other. 

There  is  really  but  one  objection  to  its  use  in  the  house,  and  that  is  the 
•^  brief  existence  of  the  bloom.     However,  the  Crocus  is  so  cheap  and  flowers 
'/•;  so  soon  after  planting,  that  it  will  always  prove  interesting  and  remain 
popular.      For  general  purposes  the  unnamed  are  quite  as  good  as  the 
named,  and  as  they  are  bought  by  the  hundred  for  less  than  two  cents 
each,  cannot  be  considered  an  expensive  luxury.      The   Yellow  are  the 
most  vigorous  in  growth.     A  few  Crocuses  scattered  over  the  lawn  is  a  pretty  sight. 

COLCHICUM. 

The  COLCHICUM,  or  Autumn  Crocus,  is  a  curious  and  interesting  flower.  The  leaves  appear 
in  the  spring,  and  the  flowers  in  the  autumn,  and  the  seed  the  next  midsummer.  This  singular 
habit  makes  the  flower  very  interesting  both  to  the  Botanist  and 
Florist.  The  bulbs  are  perfectly  hardy,  and  we  have  never  known 
one  injured  by  the  winter.  Each  bulb  gives  quite  a  cluster  of 
flowers,  generally  six  or  eight,  and  so  persistent  is  it  in  its  determina- 
tion to  flower,  that  if  taken  up  early  in  the  autumn,  before  time 
for  flowering,  and  placed  in  a  pot  or  basket,  it  will  bloom  just  as 
well  as  if  left  in  the  ground.  Indeed,  if  placed  upon  a  bracket  or 
shelf,  without  either  soil  or  moisture,  the  pretty  pinkish  flowers  will 
appear  just  the  same  as  though  it  had  retained  its  natural  position 
in  the  ground.  C.  autumnalis  is  a  delicate  pink ;  C.  Agrippina  cf 
a  deeper  color  and  checkered.  A  few  of  either  variety  will  afford 
great  satisfaction,  and  to  those  who  have  never  grown  the  Colchicum 
we  would  say,  try  them,  and  obtain  the  cheapest,  if  money  is  of  any  particular  consequence. 

SNOW-DROP. 

THE  first  flower  of  spring  is  the  delicate  SNOW-DROP,  white  as  snow.  Its  appearance  about 
the  first  of  March  is  a  joyful  surprise.  The  bulbs  are  quite  small ;  the  leaves  and  flowers  about 
six  inches  in  height.  Plant  in  the  fall,  in  beds  or  masses  of  a 
dozen  or  more,  about  two  inches  apart,  and  about  the  same  depth. 
They  are  very  desirable  for  growing  in  pots,  etc.,  in  the  house  in 
winter.  A  dozen  may  be  planted  in  quite  a  small  pot  or  saucer. 
A  few  planted  on  the  lawn  produce  a  fine  effect  early  in  the  spring, 
and  mowing  will  not  destroy  the  bulbs,  for  the  leaves  will  ripen 
so  early  that  they  will  be  pretty  well  matured  before  the  grass  will 
need  cutting.  Perfectly  hardy,  and  bulbs  can  remain  several  years 
without  removal. 

The  SNOW  FLAKE,  (Leucojnm,)  is  sometimes  called  the  Large 
Snow-Drop,  from  its  resemblance  to  this  delicate  flower.       It  is 
much   larger,   and  more  robust   in  habit.       Flowers  white,  with 
SNOW-DROP.  bright  green  spots.     Once  planted,  it  manages  to  take  care  of  itself 

pretty  effectually,  and  flowers  very  freely  in  summer.      It  is  not  as  desirable  as  the  Snow-Drop. 

134 


COLCHICUM. 


NARCISSUS. 

THE  NARCISSUS  is  a  very  fine  class  of  early  blooming  flowers,  including  the  well  known  Daf- 
fodil and  Jonquil.     Most  of  the  varieties  are  hardy,  and  should  be  planted  in  the  autumn,  like  the 

Hyacinth,  but  may  remain  in  the  ground  a 
number  of  years,  after  which  they  will  become 
so  matted  together  as  to  make  a  division  of 
the  roots  necessary. 

The  Single  Narcissus  is  extremely  hardy 
and  popular  as  a  border  Mower,  and  the  cen- 
tral cup  being  of  a  different  color  from  the 
six  petals,  makes  the  ttower  exceedingly  at- 
tractive. Some  have  the  petals  of  a  light 
yellow  and  the  cup  orange ;  others  have  the 
petals  white  and  the  cup  yellow ;  while  the 
Poet's  Narcissus  (Narcissus  poeticus,)  some- 
times called  Pheasant's  Eye,  is  snowy  white, 
SINGLE  NARCISSUS.  DOUBLE  NARCISSUS.  the  cup  cream  color,  with  a  delicate  fringed 

edge  of  red,  which  gives  its  latter  name.     The  Double  varieties  are  very  desirable.     The  common 

Daffodil   is  well  known   under  that    name,  though    not  so  well  by   its    true    one,    Van  Sion. 
The  most  beautiful  class  of  the  Narcissus  family,  however,  is  the  Polyanthus  Narcissus.     The 

flowers  are  produced  in  clusters  or  trusses  of  from   half  a  dozen  to  three  times  this  number. 

Like  the  others,  they  show  every  shade  of  color,  from  the  purest  imaginable  white  to  deep  orange. 
The   Polyanthus  Narcissus  is  not  quite 

hardy   in  this  climate,  unless  planted   in  a 

sandy  soil,  and  well  covered  before  winter, 

and  then   often  fails ;  further  South  it  does 

well.       For  flowering  in  pots  in  the  house 

the    Polyanthus    Narcissus    is    unsurpassed, 

and    nothing  can    be    more  satisfactory  for 

this   purpose.       The  Jonquils  are   also  de- 
sirable for  winter  flowering.       Three  or  four 

may  be  grown  in  a  small  pot.      Try  them  in 

the  house  this  winter ;  you  will  find  nothing 

sweeter.       The  Polyanthus   Narcissus  will 

also  flower  well  in  glasses  of  water,  like  the 

Hyacinth,  and  it  is  desirable  to  grow  a  few 

in  this  way,  yet  nothing  looks  so  natural  and 

nice  as  a  good  healthy  plant  in  a  neat  pot  of 

earth,  and  ,no  other  method  leaves  the  bulb  in  a  sound,  healthy  condition  for  the  next  season. 

SCILLAS. 

The  SCILLA  is  the  brightest  and  prettiest  and  hardiest  of  the  early  spring  flowers.  When  the 
Crocuses  are  in  bloom  the  little  modest  S.  Siberica  and  S.  campanu- 
lata  may  be  seen  throwing  up  a  little  cluster  of  flowers  of  the  most  in- 
tense blue  imaginable.  The  flower  stem  is  only  about  four  inches,  and 
is  just  the  pretty  flower  that  everybody  craves  for  the  button  hole.  The 
plant  flowers  without  showing  a  leaf.  After  the  flowers  are  gone  the 
leaves  appear,  and  these  should  not  be  injured.  Many,  after  the  flower 
has  disappeared,  remove  the  leaves  so  as  to  make  room  for  other  plants, 
but  this  course  injures  the  bulbs  unless  the  leaves  are  pretty  well  matured. 
No  bulb  is  more  hardy  or  more  competent  to  take  care  of  itself.  The 
bulbs  are  quite  small,  as  is  also  the  plant,  and,  like  all  small  bulbous 
rooted  plants,  look  best  and  are  less  likely  to  be  destroyed  if  grown  in 
little  masses — a  dozen  or  so  in  a  group.  When  small  bulbous  roots  are 
SCILLA.  scattered  over  the  garden  singly,  they  are  almost  certain  to  be  destroyed 

especially  where  help  in  cleaning  up  the  garden  is  occasionally  employed. 

135 


TRUMPET    NARCISSUS.  POLYANTHUS   NARCISSUS. 


CROWN   IMPERIAL. 


CROWN     IMPERIAL. 

Early  in  the  spring,  before  the  frost  is  fairly  out  of  the  ground,  the  strong  flower  stem  of 
the  Crown  Imperial  begins  to  appear,  and  gradually  it  ascends,  the  most  brilliant  green  of  the 

garden,  the  true  herald  of  spring,  upward  and 
upward,  until  it  stands  erect  full  three  feet  in 
height,  its  glossy  emerald  leaves  waving  in  the 
breeze,  and  often  bending  beneath  the  untimely 
snow.  Nearly  at  the  top  of  this  column  appears 
the  flowery  crown  of  bell-shaped  flowers,  and 
above  these  a  tuft  of  leaves,  all  forming  a  pretty 
crown  from  which  its  name  is  derived.  Although 
the  Crown  Imperial  is  so  pretty  in  early  spring, 
its  fragrance  is  not  at  all  desirable.  The  flower 
stem,  when  removed,  leaves  an  open  space  in  the 
center  of  the  bulb,  which  sometimes  causes  those 
inexperienced  to  consider  the  bulb  injured. 
I  There  are  several  varieties,  differing  mainly  in 
the  color  of  the  flowers,  as  yellow,  scarlet,  red, 
orange,  &c.  The  bulbs  should  be  planted  four 
or  five  inches  deep  and  about  a  foot  apart.  They 
will  not  usually  flower  the  first  year  after  planting. 
This  is  one  of  those  hardy  and  useful  plants  about 
which  there  is  no  mystery  or  difficulty.  Once 
put  in  the  ground,  and  having  obtained  a  fair 
start,  it  will  continue  to  grow  and  increase 
from  year  to  year,  until  the  children  become  men  and  women,  and  often  decorate  the  graves  of 
those  who  first  planted  them,  scores  of  years  before. 

SMILAX. 

This  plant,  a  native  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  has  now  become  one  of  the  essentials  of  the 
florist  and  amateur.  It  is  extensively  used  in  decorating  parlors  and  reception  rooms  and  for  dec- 
orating the  hair,  and  for  trimming  party  dresses,  for  which  purpose  it  is  not  only  admirably  adapted, 
being  an  extremely 
graceful  vine,  with 
glossy  green  leaves,  but 
surpasses  anything  with 
which  we  are  acquaint- 
ed. With  a  little  care 
it  can  be  grown  suc- 
cessfully as  a  house 
plant.  The  vine  does 
not  require  the  full  sun, 
but  will  grow  well  in  a 
partially  shaded  situa- 
tion. It  can  be  trained 
on  a  small  thread  across 
the  window  or  around 
pictures.  Grown  from 
both  seeds  and  bulbs.  SMILAX. 

Pot  the  bulbs  as  soon  as  received,  watering  but  little  until  you  see  signs  of  growth.  They 
grow  very  rapidly,  and  should  always  have  strings  to  twine  on.  Give  plenty  of  fresh  air,  but  be 
careful  and  not  let  a  direct  draft  of  cold  air  blow  upon  the  vines,  as  they  are  very  tender  when 
young.  Give  them  a  warm  place,  and  they  will  amply  repay  all  care.  When  growth  is  complete  the 
foliage  will  turn  yellow.  Then  gradually  withhold  water,  and  allow  the  bulbs  to  dry.  They 
then  can  be  put  away  in  some  dry,  cool  place.  After  they  have  been  in  this  dormant  state  six  or 
eight  weeks  they  will  begin  to  show  signs  of  life,  and  then  are  ready  for  another  season's  growth. 

136 


ANEMONE. 

ALL  will  admit,  who  have  ever  seen  the  ANEMONE  in  bloom,  that  it  is  a  most  beautiful  flower. 
Double  and  single  are  both  desirable  —  the  single  the  most  brilliant.     The  Anemone  has  not  been 

grown  generally,  because  it  has  been 
thought  too  tender  to 
bear  our  winters.  The 
bulbs  may  be  kept 
until  spring,  and  if 
planted  early  will  flow- 
er well.  Although 
unable  to  recommend 
the  Anemones  for  fall 
planting  in  the  North 
with  the  same  confi- 


ANEMONE    ROOT. 


SINGLE    ANEMONE. 


DOUBLE    ANEMONE.  AP.HMUINII    KWI.  dcnCC       WC        do 

hardy  things,  they  are  well  worthy  of  trial,  and  those  who  succeed  will  be  delighted.  The  roots 
look  like  dried  ginger.  Plant  them  five  inches  apart,  and  cover  three  inches  deep.  They  flower 
after  the  Hyacinth,  and  continue  a  long  time  in  bloom.  When  the  leaves  begin  to  turn  yellow, 
the  roots  may  be  taken  up,  dried  in  the  shade,  and  packed  away. 

RANUNCULUS. 

THE  RANUNCULUS  is  not  considered  hardy  generally,  but  with  good  dry  soil,  with  drainage 
:so  that  the  surface  water  may  run  off  easily,  tolerable  success  may  be  obtained.       Desirable  for 
culture  in  the  house.     The  bulbs  are  very  curious,  tooth-like,  and  may 
be  kept  out  of  ground  almost  any  length  of  time,  and  will  then  grow 
as  well  as  when  freshly  taken  up.      They  can,  therefore,  be  kept  until 
the  spring,  and  if  then  planted  early,  in  a  pretty  cool  place,  like  the 
north  side  of  a  fence  or  hedge,  the  result  will  be 
usually  quite  satisfactory.    Our  fierce 
summer   suns   are    not  favorable  to 
the  full  development  of  this  flower,  ,j| 
as  it  delights    in  a  cool,-  moist  at- 
mosphere.    This  fact  should  be  re- 
membered   in  house  culture.       No 
success  may  be  looked  for  in  a  hot, 
RANUNCULUS  PLANT.  R.  ROOT.         dry  room.     This  is  one  of  those  beau-          R   FLOWER. 

tiful  flowers  that  will  never  be  common  in  America,  but  which  may  be  secured  by  proper  culture. 

IRIS. 

The  IRIS,  or  Flowering  Flag,  as  it  is  called,  or  Fleur  de  Us  of  the  French,  is  a  well  known 
family  of  hardy  border  flowers.  They  are  na- 
tives of  damp  spots  in  all  four  quarters  of  the 
globe,  but  were  adopted  for  garden  culture 
more  than  three  hundred  years  ago.  In 
that  time  they  have  become  very  much  im- 
proved, and  some  varieties  are  exceedingly 
beautiful.  Susiana  major  is  five  inches 
across,  and  of  the  richest  colors  and  most 
singular  markings.  The  pavonia  is  small, 
but  beautifully  marked,  almost  looking  like 
a  butterfly.  This,  however,  is  not  hardy, 
and  is  suitable  for  winter  flowering  in  the 
house.  The  others  are  perfectly  hardy,  I  '/  ' 

needing   scarcely    ordinary  care.       The   /.  j;  J I 

Persica,  also,  is  admirable  for  winter  flower-  '"    / 

ing.     The  Anglica,  and  Hispanica  classes,  uus  FLOWER. 

and  the  Susiana  major  are  especially  desirable  for  the  garden,  and  deserve    general  culture. 

137 


IRIS   PLANT. 


OXALIS. 

An  interesting  class  of  small  bulbs,  desirable  for  winter-flowering  in  pots,  producing  an  abund- 
ance of  bloom.      They  should  be  potted  as  early  as  convenient,  and  in  nice  sandy  loam,  with 
good  drainage.       Most  of  the  varieties  have  small  bulbs,  and  should  be  planted  from  three  to  five 
bulbs  in  a  pot;  versicolor  is  particularly  small.       When  through 
flowering,  and  the  foliage  begins  to  turn  yellow,  let  them  dry  off 
gradually.     When  perfectly  dry,  knock  them  out  of  the  pots,  sepa- 
rate, and  plant  on  fresh  soil,  keeping  them  in  a  dry  place.     About 
August  or  September  they  will  commence  growing  again.      Then 
bring  them  to  the  light  and  air,  and  commence  watering.     In  this 
way  the  bulbs  will  keep  sound  all  summer,  and  will  increase 
rapidly.      The  leaves,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  engraving,  resemble 
in  form  the  Clover  leaf;  indeed,  the  celebrated  Irish  Shamrock  is 
an  Oxalis.      As  the  leaves  are  on  long,  slender  stalks,  and  con- 
isequently  droop,  it  can  be  readily  understood  how  well  the  Oxalis 
is  adapted  to  hanging  baskets  and  other  similar  purposes.      Gener- 
ally, both  leaves  and  flowers  are  abundant,  so  that  a  few  plants  pre- 
sent a  very  cheerful  aspect  during  the  whole  winter.       There  are 
varieties  that  will  not  blossom  in  the  winter,  and  these  are  mostly 
OXALIS.  desirable  for  borders,  edgings,  &c.,  and  those  fiigured  on  page  116 

are  especially  desirable  for  this  work,  and  are  becoming  very  popular  as  summer  border  plants  ; 
but  it  is  the  winter  flowering  sorts,  so  desirable  for  pot  culture,  and  particularly  for  basket 
work,  to  which  we  desire  to  call  especial  attention.  Our  little  engraving  shows  a  plant  in  bloom, 
but  the  different  varieties  vary  very  much  in  habit,  and  the  plants  make  a  more  vigorous  growth 
and  fill  a  larger  space  than  the  size  of  the  bulb  would  seem  to  indicate.  We  have  plants  now, 
almost  globular  in  form,  and  measuring  from  a  foot  to  eighteen  inches  in  diameter. 

CYCLAMEN. 

This  pretty  flower  is  too  little  known.  It  is  a  native  of  Europe  and  Asia,  some  varieties  being 
very  abundant  in  Switzerland  and  Italy.  It  is  of  the  easiest  culture.  Pot  in  October  or  Novem- 
ber, in  rich  loam ;  mix  about  a  spoonful  of  soot  with 
the  same,  which  will  add  brilliancy  and  size  to  the 
flowers.  Bits  of  charcoal,  broken  fine,  will  serve 
the  same  purpose.  Use  a  small  pot,  and  place  the 
crown  of  the  bulb  just  above  the  surface  of  the  soil. 
Keep  the  plants  cool  till  the  leaves  are  well  grown. 
When  the  flower  buds  begin  to  rise  on  the  foot  stalks 
remove  to  a  sunny  shelf,  where  they  will  soon 
show  bloom.  Place  as  near  the  glass  as  possible. 
After  the  blooming  season  (which  generally  lasts 
two  or  three  months,)  is  over,  gradually  withhold 
water,  and  let  the  leaves  dry  down.  The  plant 
seeds  freely,  but  it  is  not  a  good  plan  to  allow  it  to 
ripen  the  seed,  as  it  hurts  the  blooming  qualities  of 
the  bulb.  Seedlings  bloom  when  two  years  old. 
To  keep  the  bulbs  through  the  summer,  bury  them 
in  the  open  border.  Take  them  up  about  the  mid- 
dle of  September,  and  they  will  be  found  plump  and 

fresh.     It  is  particularly  adapted  for  window  culture,  CYCLAMEN  PERBICUM. 

and  will  give  more  flowers  with  less  trouble  than  almost  any  plant  we  are  acquainted  with.  The 
colors  are  usually  white,  tipped  at  the  base  with  rich  rosy  purple.  In  all  the  species  both  leaves 
and  flowers  spring  directly  from  a  solid  tuberous  rootstalk,  as  shown  in  the  engraving.  The 
leaves  are  heart-shaped,  while  the  flowers  are  of  one  petal,  but  deeply  divided  into  five  segments. 
After  flowering  the  flower  stalk  coils  itself  up  in  a  spiral  form,  with  the  seed  vessel  in  the  center,, 
and  bends  itself  toward  the  ground,  in  which  position  the  seeds  are  ripened. 

138 


IXIAS. 
The  Ixias  are  not  destitute  of  beauty;  indeed,  some  of  them  have  strong  claims  to  our  regard 

on  account  of  their  good  looks,  but  there  are  few  flowers  that  attract  more  attention  by  their  curi- 
ous forms  and  strange  coloring.  Some  of  them,  and,  indeed, 
nearly  all,  showing  three  or  more  colors.  They  make  a  nice 
addition  and  give  variety  to  the  larger  bulbs,  as  Hya- 
cinths, &c.,  more  commonly  used  in  house  culture, 
and  seldom  fail  to  please.  Several  may  be  planted 
in  a  small  pot,  and  the  treatment  is  the  same  as  we 
have  recommended  for  other  bulbs  in  pots.  The 
Ixias  are  all  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and 
portions  of  South  Africa.  The  bulbs  exude  a  viscid 
gum  when  cut,  and  hence  the  name,  from  a  Greek 
word  which  means  to  fix.  Our  engraving  shows  the 
form  of  flower  and  habit  of  plant,  though  there  is  a 
greater  difference  in  the  form  and  color  of  Ixias  than 
with  almost  any  other  class  of  plants.  The  variety 
IXIA  FLOWER.  We  figure  is  Viridijlora,  and  the  prevailing  color  is  IXIA 

green,  the  center  being  purple  and  pink,  but  the  Ixias  are  of  almost  all  imaginable  diverse  colors. 

OTHER    WINTER    DECORATIONS. 

In  this  department,  so  fruitful  of  subjects  for  winter  flowers,  it  may  be  well  to  call  attention 
to  the  EVERLASTINGS,  or  IMMORTELLES,  and  GRASSES,  so  desirable  for  WINTER  DECORATIONS. 
Many  of  them,  like  the  Acroclinium  and  Helichrysum,  are  grown 
in  this  country,  and  they  will  be  found  described  on  pages  95,  96  and 
97 ;  but  large  quantities  are  im- 
ported from  Europe,  especially  of 
the  Gnaphalium,  which  is  gener- 
ally known  as  the  Immortelle. 
The  natural  color  is  yellow,  but 
they  are  bleached  white,  and  dyed 
of  almost  any  color,  by  the  ingenuity  of  French  growers. 

The  Everlastings,  with  the  Feather  and  other  Grasses, 
make  up  nicely  in  bouquets  and  Floral  Baskets.  For  mak- 
ing ornamental  letters,  by  attaching  them  to  pasteboard  forms, 
the  little  Everlastings  are  excellent.  With  a  little  skill 
and  taste  and  a  good  deal  of  patience,  great  things  can 
be  accomplished  in  this  way.  The  Grasses  and  Everlast- 
ings are  sold  by  the  bunch,  pound  or  hundred  by  most  florists,  and  are  in  great  demand  about 
the  Holidays  for  decorative  purposes.  Our  engravings  give  some  idea  of  this  work. 


139 


HARDY    CLIMBERS. 


ARISTOLOCHIA   SIPHO. 


The  Climbers  are  invaluable  to  the  gardener.  They  furnish  the  drapery  of  the  garden,  and 
transform  the  most  unsightly  stump  and  fence  into  objects  of  beauty.  The  Annual  and  Tender 
Climbers  are  a  reserve  force,  ready  at  the  last  minute  to  do  their  work.  The  Hardy  Climber*, 

once  planted,  remain  and  get  better 
every  season.  We  can  notice  only 
a  few  of  the  best. 

AMPELOPSIS  QUINQUEFOI.IA,  or 
VIRGINIA  CREEPER,  and  some- 
times called  American  Ivy  and 
Woodbine,  is  of  rapid  growth,  will 
go  to  the  top  of  any  building,  and 
in  the  autumn  its  foliage  is  of  the 
most  elegant  crimson. 

AMPELOPSIS  VEITCHII,  from  Ja- 
pan. The  foliage  is  small,  and  the  whole  plant  slender. 
It  climbs  closely  to  the  smoothest  surface,  but  suffers  some- 
times in  the  winter. 

AKEBIA  QUINATA,  a  singular  Japanese  Climber,  with  small, 
pretty   foliage,   and    small 
chocolate   brown   flowers ; 
a  rapid  grower. 

ARISTOLOCHIA  SIPHO, 
or  DUTCHMAN'S  PIPE,  is 
a  rapid  growing  Hardy 
Climber,  with  very  large 
leaves  in  abundance,  com- 
pletely covering  any  wall 
or  trellis  to 

TRUMPET  VINK.  which  it  may 

be  attached.      It  is  perfectly  hardy  everywhere. 

BlGNONIA  RADICANS,  or  TRUMPET  CREEPER, 

is  a  very  strong  and  rapid  grower,  with  clusters 
of  large,  trumpet-shaped,  orange-scarlet  flowers. i 
CELASTRUS  SCANDENS,  or  CLIMBING  BITTER 
SWEET,  is  another  beautiful  native  Climber. 

LONICERA,  HONEYSUCKLE.  —  Halleana,  an  evergreen 
variety  from  Japan.  The  flowers  are  white,  changing  to  yel- 
low ;  quite  fragrant. 

Japan  Gold-veined.  Foliage  small,  and  beautifully 
netted  with  creamy  yellow ;  flowers  small,  white  and  sweet. 

Monthly  Fragrant,  or  Dutch  ;  the  flowers  of  this  variety 
are  red  and  pale  yellow ;  it  blooms  through  the  whole 
summer. 

Scarlet  Trumpet  is  monthly,  and  evergreen,  or  nearly  so ; 
flowers  two  inches  in  length,  scarlet  outside  and  yellow  in. 

CLEMATIS  FLAMMULA,  European  Sweet,  a  very  sweet- 
scented  variety,  but  flowers  small  and  white. 

Virginiana,  the  common  Virgin's  Bower,  a  native  climber, 
with  clusters  of  small  white  flowers  ;  fruit  with  feathery  tails. 

~"^  Jackmanii.     This  is  one  of  the  new  English  hybrids  that 

CLEMATIS  JACKMANII.  are  attracting  so  much  attention   in   all  parts  of   the  world. 

WISTARIA  SINENSIS,  Chinese  Wistaria,  is  a  rapid,  strong  grower,  and  when  once  well  estab- 
lished will  grow  twenty  feet  in  a  season.  The  flowers  are  in  long  racemes,  and  light  purple. 

140 


CLIMBING    BITTER-SXVKKT. 


ROSES   AND    BEDDING   PLANTS. 


HYBRID    PERPETUAL   ROSE. 


ROSES  we  place  in  two  great  divisions,  HARDY  and  TENDER.  The  Hardy  are  those  that 
will  endure  the  winters,  say  of  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  or  Boston,  Mass.,  without  protection,  or  with 

what  we  can  easily  furnish  —  a  little  straw 
or  a  few  evergreen  boughs.  The  Tender 
Roses  are  those  that  will  not  endure  a 
Northern  winter,  while  they  do  finely 
South,  and  are  those  so  desirable  for  house 
plants.  In  each  of  these  grand  divisions 
there  are  several  classes,  and  in  each  class 
a  good  many  varieties. 

HARDY  ROSES. — The  leading  member 
of  this  class  is  the  Hybrid  Perpetual,  con- 
taining  hundreds  of  varieties,  of  different 
habits.  The  flowers  are  generally  of  strong 
colors,  and  appear  abundantly  in  June,  and 
a  few  flowers  are  usually  seen  through  the 
summer  and  fall,  especially  if  the  plants 
are  cut  back  after  the  June  flowering.  If 
the  season  should  happen  to  be  a  little 
moist,  some  of  them  will  bloom  almost  as 
well  as  the  so-called  monthlies.  The 
Climbing  Roses  are  but  few  in  number,  and 
flower  in  June.  The  Moss  Roses  bloom  in  June,  and  sometimes  occasionally  during  the  season. 

TENDER  ROSES.  — The  Tender  Roses  are  the 
Teas,  Bourbons,  Chinas  and  Noisettes.  Their 
flowers  are  delicate  in  color,  voluptuous  in  ap- 
pearance, and  deliciously  fragrant.  Of  course 
these  are  hardy  in  the  South  and  on  the  Pacific 
coast,  and  are  far  preferable  to  all  others.  As 
pot  roses  they  are  the  only  kinds  worth  growing. 
The  Teas  are  the  most  fragrant.  The  flowers 
are  usually  large,  and  the  colors  soft  and  pleas- 
ing, mostly  white,  straw  and  flesh,  and  the 
combinations  of  these  with  pink  or  rose.  They 
are  the  tenderest  of  all  the  ever  blooming  roses, 
and  require  a  pit  or  cellar  in  winter.  Bourbons 
and  Chinas  are  among  the  hardiest  of  the  Ten- 
der Roses,  usually  of  dwarf  habit  or  moderate 
growth.  In  colors  they  are  from  white  to  deep 
crimson,  but  embrace  no  yellows.  The  Noisettes 
are  valuable  as  climbers  or  for  pillars,  and  nearly  ; 
all  very  fragrant,  almost  as  much  so  as  the 
Teas,  from  which  they  are  mostly  hybrids.  They 
are  quite  tender,  but  where  they  will  endure  the 
winter  they  form  the  finest  specimens  of  all  the 
tribe  of  Roses.  TEA  ROSE. 

The  most  popular  BEDDING  PLANTS  of  the  present  clay  are  the  FOLIAGE  PLANTS  and  GERA- 
NIUMS. Among  the  former  may  be  found  many  forms  resembling  the  luxuriant  growth  of  the 
tropics  —  Ricinus,  Cannas  and  Caladi^^ms.  The  numerous  varieties  of  Coleus  vary  in  color  from 
a  pea-green  and  golden  yellow  to  bronze,  and  some  almost  black.  These,  with  a  border  of 
Centattrea,  or  some  other  white  leaved  plants,  form  a  pleasing  sight.  Where  bright  flowers 
are  wanted  there  is  nothing  that  will  take  the  place  of  the  scarlet  Geraniums.  Single  roots  or 
small  clumps  of  Erianthus  and  Pampas  Grass  set  in  the  lawn,  make  a  very  fine  show. 

141 


MUSHROOM    CULTURE. 


Our  readers  are,  of  course,  well  acquainted  with  Mushrooms  of  the  meadows,  so  abundant  in 
many  places  in  the  damp,  cool  weather  and  dewy  nights  of  autumn.  Some  pass  them  without 
notice,  or  think  of  them  only  as  Toad-stools,  while  others  seem  to  rush  for  every  tiny  specimen 
as  eagerly  as  though  they  were  gathering  diamonds.  We  desire  to  show  how  Mushrooms  can  be 
cultivated  so  as  to  secure  a  supply  during  the  spring  and  early  summer,  before  they  can  be  obtained 
from  the  fields.  It  is  difficult  to  grow  them  in  the  heat  of  summer,  but  in  spring  and  autumn 
they  may  be  grown  without  difficulty.  There  are  a  good  many  varieties,  but  the  one  cultivated 
and  the  one  we  find  growing  wild  in  the  autumn  is  Agaricus  campestris. 

All  that  is  needed  for  success  is  a  temperature 
from  50  to  60  degrees,  some  fresh  horse  manure 
and  a  little  spawn.  Having  procured  what  fresh 
horse  manure  is  needed,  mix  it  well  with  about 
one-third  of  its  bulk  of  good  loam,  and  you  are 
prepared  to  make  your  beds  in  whatever  place 
^.T  you  prefer.  If  you  determine  to  form  beds,  make 
them  narrow,  certainly  not  more  than  five  feet  in 
breadth,  and  about  fifteen  inches  in  height.  The 
material  must  be  made  compact  by  beating  down 
as  evenly  as  possible.  If  under  cover,  the  beds 
may  be  made  flat  on  the  top,  but  if  in  the  open 
air  should  be  rounded  to  shed  the  rain,  somewhat 
as  shown  in  the  small  engraving.  After  the  beds 
have  been  made  a  week  there  will  be  consider- 

AGARICUS  CAMPESTRIS.  able  heat  produced  by  the   fermentation   of  the 

manure.  Bricks  of  spawn  should  have  been  secured  previously,  and  they  can  be  had  of  most 
seedsmen,  postage  or  expressage  free,  at  about  thirty  cents  a  pound.  Break  them  into  pieces 
about  as  large  as  walnuts  and  insert  in  the  beds,  just  below  the  surface,  about  ten  inches  apart. 
One  pound  of  spawn  is  sufficient  for  a  space  two  by  six  feet.  If  there  seems  to  be  much  heat,  do 
nothing  for  a  week  or  ten  days,  until  it  somewhat  subsides.  Then  cover  the  bed  with  an  inch 
or  more  of  good  earth,  pressing  it  down  with  the  back  of  a  spade.  It  is  not  likely  in  a  large  bed 
water  will  be  needed  at  all ;  but  if  the  material  should  appear  very  diy,  water  lightly  with  warm 
water.  In  small  beds  or  boxes,  or  any  thing  of  the  kind,  it  is  probable  water  will  be  needed  once 
or  twice.  Mushrooms  will  begin  to  appear  in  about  six  weeks  after  planting  the  spawn,  and  can 
be  gathered  for  three  or  four  weeks.  In 
gathering,  take  up  the  Mushroom  entire, 
leaving  no  stem  in  the  bed,  and  placing  a 
little  earth  in  the  hole  made  by  its  removal. 
When  the  crop  is  gathered,  cover  the  bed 
with  a  little  more  earth,  beat  it  down  gently, 
and  give  a  pretty  good  moistening  with  MUSHROOM  BED. 

tepid  water,  and  in  about  a  month  more  you  may  expect  that  another  crop  will  be  produced. 
Many  of  our  readers  have  succeeded,  even  on  a  first  trial,  but  it  is  with  this  as  with  all  new 
things,  that  success  is  not  always  certain. 

The  Mushroom  is  very  accommodating,  and  will  grow  as  well  in  the  dark  as  the  light,  in 
cellars  or  sheds,  in  beds  or  boxes,  if  the  temperature  is  about  right  and  uniform.  For  the  Paris 
market,  and,  indeed,  for  exportation,  they  are  grown  in  the  neighborhood  of  Paris  in  immense 
quantities  in  old  stone  quarries,  which  are  really  under-ground  caves.  It  will  be  well  for  those 
who  are  fond  of  Mushrooms,  or  who  feel  an  interest  in  the  matter,  to  make  a  trial  in  a  small  way 
at  first.  There  is  another  variety  of  Mushroom  found  in  a  great  many  parts  of  the  country,  and 
in  some  places  quite  abundantly  in  the  spring.  It  appears  as  if  honey-combed,  and  is  most 
abundant  in  thin  woods  or  orchards.  It  is  known  as  the  Morel,  (Morschella  esculent  a  t)  and  we 
have  heard  of  its  cultivation  in  only  one  recent  case  in  Europe. 

142 


UJ 


THE  Vegetable  Department  is,  to  many  of  our  readers,  exceedingly  interesting,  and  should 
te  to  all ;  for  while  we  have  no  sympathy  with  those  who  say  they  "  see  more  beauty  in  a 
Cabbage  or  hill  of  Potatoes  than  in  the  finest  flower  that  ever  grew,"  we  do  most  heartily  agree 
with  those  who  take  pride  and  pleasure  in  the  culture  of  choice  vegetables,  and  their  improve- 
ment, and  who  are  ready  to  say,  with  DIOCLETIAN,  "  were  you  to  come  to  my  garden,  and  see 
the  vegetables  I  raise  with  my  own  hands,  you  would  no  longer  talk  to  me  of  empire."  As  much 
skill  is  required  to  produce  an  improved  vegetable  as  a  new  and  valuable  flower,  and  perhaps  as 
much  as  is  needed  to  govern  a  nation ;  and  the  pleasure  of  success,  we  doubt  not,  is  quite  as 
great.  The  improvement  in  our  vegetables  for  the  past  score  of  years  has  been  great ;  indeed, 
we  notice  desirable  progress  almost  every  season,  and  more  particularly  in  the  purity  of  the  seeds. 
To  keep  varieties  pure,  and  true  to  name,  requires  a  constant  struggle,  about  which  the  nur- 
serymen and  florist  who  propagate  by  budding  and  grafting,  and  by  cuttings  and  divisions  of 
roots,  know  nothing,  and  of  which  gardeners  usually  have  but  little  appreciation. 

ASPARAGUS. 
This  now  popular  vegetable  is  so  well  known  that  most  persons  who  have  had  experience  in 

vegetable  gardening  are  pretty  well  acquainted  with  its  habits.  The  Asparagus  is  a  salt  water 
plant,  indigenous  to  various  parts  of  the  coast  of  Europe  and  Asia, 
growing  in  salt  water  marshes.  It  has  escaped  from  our  gardens,  and 
is  now  found  in  some  places  on  the  American  coast,  and  is  sometimes 
observed  in  meadows.  The  plant  is  perennial,  and  grows  some  five 
feet  in  height,  with  a  branching  stem,  fine  cylindrical  leaves,  small 
greenish  flowers,  and  red  berries  containing  black  seed.  The  seed 
may  be  sown  either  in  the  spring  or  autumn,  in  drills,  about  one  inch 
deep,  and  the  rows  wide  enough  apart  to  admit  of  hoeing  —  about  a 
foot  An  ounce  of  seed  is  sufficient  for  a  drill  thirty  feet  in  length. 
Keep  the  soil  mellow  and  free 
from  weeds  during  the  summer, 

and  in  the  fall  or  succeeding  spring  the  plants  may  be  set 

out  in  beds,  about  a  foot  apart  each  way.     The  beds  should 

be  narrow,  so  as  to  permit  of  cutting  to  the  center  without 

stepping  upon  them.     The  plants  may  remain  in  the  seed- 
bed until  two  years  old,  if  desired.     Before  winter,  cover 

the  transplanted  beds  with  about  four  inches  of  manure. 

A  good  many  varieties  are  advertised,  with  but  little  dif-  's/t 

ference.     As  Asparagus  plants  are  all  grown  from  seed,  it     '"'. 

will  be  seen  that  there  is  great  opportunity  for  variation. 

Salt  is  an  excellent  manure  for  Asparagus,  and  an  efficient  assistant  to  the  cultivator,  keeping 

down  the  weeds  with  very  little  labor.      When  grown  in  large  quantities  for  market,  Asparagus 

143 


is  often  planted  a  foot  apart  in  the  rows,  and  the  rows  three  feet  apart,  and  sometimes  three 
feet  apart  each  way.  Cut  for  use  the  third  year  after  planting,  and  if  the  shoots  appear  pretty 
strong,  a  little  may  be  cut  the  second  year.  The  part  used  is  the  young  shoots  when  about 

five  or  six  inches  in  height,  and  when  the  bud  is  close  and 
firm,  and  these  should  be  cut  a  little  below  the  surface,  with  a 
sloping  cut.  It  is  not  best  to  continue  the  cutting  late  in  the 
season,  unless  the  shoots  are  very  robust.  Always  give  the  bed 
a  good  dressing  of  manure  in  the  fall,  first  removing  the  dead 
brush  of  the  past  season.  As  an  Asparagus  bed  will  last  longer 
than  the  maker,  it  should  be  well  made,  and  there  should  be 
no  haste  in  cutting,  Those  who  do  not  wish  the  trouble  and 
delay  of  growing  Asparagus  from  seed,  can  obtain  plants  either 
one  or  two  years  old  at  a  very  moderate  price.  Secure  a 
good,  rich,  deep,  mellow  soil,  and  set  the  plants  with  the  roots 
spread  out  naturally,  just  as  a  good  gardener  would  arrange  the  roots  of  any  tree  or  plant,  and 
so  deep  that  the  crown  will  be  two  to  three  inches  below  the  surface.  In  removing  weeds,  be 
careful  not  to  injure  the  crowns.  In  the  spring  remove  them  only  by  hand.  The  engravings 
show  a  bunch  of  Asparagus  as  usually  exposed  for  sale,  a  root  of  Asparagus  with  the  young  shoots 
well  started,  some  of  them  almost  ready  for  cutting,  and  a  branch  of  the  plant  at  seeding  time. 
The  roots,  if  procured  in  the  spring,  and  in  good  condition,  will  show  the  buds  or  young  shoots 
an  inch  or  two  in  length. 

BEANS. 

Beans  are  usually  divided  into  two  general  classes,  Dwarf  and  Pole  Beans.  The  Dwarfs  are 
earlier  and  more  hardy,  as  a  general  rule,  than  the  running  sorts.  The  Dwarfs  are  generally 
used  for  stnng -beans 
when  the  pods  are  ten- 
der, and  the  climbers 
only  for  shelling.  We 
have  endeavored  in  the 
engraving  to  show  the 
habit  of  both.  Beans  like 
a  dry  and  rather  light 
soil,  though  they  will  do 
well  in  any  garden  soil  if 
not  set  out  too  early  in 
the  spring.  Nothing  is 
gained  by  planting  until 
the  ground  is  tolerably 
dry  and  warm.  The 
Dwarf  varieties  grow 
from  twelve  to  eighteen 
inches  in  height,  need  no 
support,  and  are  planted 
either  in  drills  or  hills. 
The  drills  should  be  not 
less  than  a  foot  apart, 
two  inches  deep,  and  the  seed  set  in  the  drills  from  two  to  three  inches  apart.  The  usual  method 
in  hills  is  to  allow  about  four  plants  to  a  hill,  and  the  hills  two  by  three  feet  apart.  Rows  are 
best  for  the  garden.  A  quart  of  ordinary  sized  Beans  is  about  fifteen  hundred,  and  will  sow 
two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  of  row,  or  one  hundred  and  fifty  hills.  Hoe  well,  but  only  when  dry. 
Running  Beans  should  not  be  planted  quite  as  early  as  the  Dwarfs.  The  usual  way  of  planting  is 
in  hills,  about  three  feet  apart,  with  the  pole  in  the  center  of  the  hill.  A  very  good  way  is  to 
grow  the  running  varieties  in  drills,  using  the  tallest  pea  brush  that  can  be  secured  conveniently. 
When  the  plants  reach  the  top  of  the  brush,  pinch  off  the  ends.  The  effect  will  be  to  cause 
greater  fruitfulness  below.  In  a  stiff  soil,  especially,  the  Lima  comes  up  better  if  planted  carefully 

144 


with  the  eye  down,  the  hill  a  little  elevated.  There  are  endless  varieties  of  Dwarf  Beans;  as 
nothing  of  the  vegetable  family  is  more  inclined  to  sport.  We  have  endeavored  to  show  the 
appearance  of  a  few  of  the  best  sorts,  when  ripe.  Figure  2  is  Refugee;  3,  Early  China;  4,  Early 
Mohawk ;  6,  White  Kidney ;  7,  White  Marrowfat ;  8,  Early  Valentine ;  9,  Early  Rachel ;  13, 
Wax,  or  Butter  —  all  Dwarfs.  Fig.  5,  London  Horticultural;  10,  Large  Lima;  11,  Concord; 
12,  Giant  Wax — all  Runners.  The  Scarlet  Runner  is  the  popular  Snap  Bean  of  England, 
and  the  Dwarfs  are  only  used  early  in  the  season,  before  the  Runners  can  be  obtained. 

BORECOLE,    or    KALE. 

The  Borecoles,  or  as  they  are  usually  called,  Kales,  are  not  much  grown  in  America,  though 

quite  popular  in  many  parts  of  Europe.     They  do  not  form  heads  like  the  Cabbage,  but  furnish 

abundance  of  curly  leaves,  those  of  some  varieties 
being  quite  ornamental,  their  general  character 
being  shown  in  the  engraving.  The  Kales  are 
more  hardy  than  the  Cabbage,  and  will  endure 
considerable  frost  without  injury,  so  they  are  often 
allowed  to  remain  in  the  ground  until  spring, 
except  in  very  severe  climates,  and  are  thus  in 
use  during  the  winter.  When  cut  frozen,  they 
are  immediately  placed  in  cold  water.  In  north- 
ern countries,  they  are  taken  up  and  stored  in  a 
cold  pit  or  cellar,  and  those  not  needed  for  winter 
use  are  re-planted  in  spring,  and  make  a  new  and 
tender  growth.  The  small  variety,  called  Ger- 
man Greens,  is  usually  sown  in  the  autumn,  and 
cut  in  spring  and  sold  in  the  markets  by  measure, 
somewhat  like  Spinach.  The  culture  is  the  same 
as  for  Cabbage.  While  we  do  not  anticipate  the 
very  general  culture  of  Kale  in  America,  as 
in  many  sections  of  Europe,  we  think  it  well  to 

call  the  attention  of  our  readers  to  this  somewhat  noted  member  of  the  Cabbage  tribe. 

BRUSSELS    SPROUTS, 
Brussels  Sprouts  is  a  very  respectable  member  of  the  Cabbage  family,  and  very  nearly  related 

to  the  Kales.     It  has  a  strong  stem,  sometimes  not  less  than  four  feet  in  height,  though  there  is  a 

dwarf  variety  that  never  reaches  more  than  half  this  height.     A  loose 

head  of  Cabbage  surmounts  the  stem,  and  thus  a  circulation  of  sap 

is  secured  to  the  extremity,  while  below,  commencing  a  few  inches 

from  the  ground  line,  are  numerous  small  heads  like  miniature  Cab- 
bages, so  thick  as  almost  to   conceal   the   stem,  and   presenting  the 

appearance  we  have  endeavored   to  show  in  the   engraving.     These 

heads  are  very  tender  and  of  good  flavor.     The  culture  is  the  same  as 

for  Cabbage.     If  early  plants  are  raised  in  a  hot-bed,  they  will  perfect 

themselves    in  September,  in  the  north,  and  a    later   sowing   should 

be  made  in  the  open  ground,  that  will  be  in  perfection  about  the  time 

winter  commences.     These  should  be  taken  up  and  stored  in  a  cool 

cellar,  like  the  Cauliflower,  with  the  roots  in  earth  where  they  will 

remain  fit  for  use  during  the  winter.     Where  the  winters  are  not  very 

severe,  they  may  remain  in  the  ground  to  be  cut  as  needed,  and  in 

such  places  the  Brussels  Sprouts  are  of  the  greatest  value.     In  severe 

climates  —  climates  of  great  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  —  the  Brussels 

Sprouts,  and  some  other  members  of  the  cabbage  family,  will  never  be 

very  successfully  grown  nor  become  very  popular ;  and  yet,  there  are 

some  in  every  section  who  will  think  us  over-cautious,  and  we  would 

not  be  surprised  to  receive  a  package  of  "  Sprouts  "  from  the  most  unlikely  place  in  the  world,  just 

to  prove  that  we  are  mistaken.     The  ability  and  perseverance  of  some  persons  will  conquer  all 

difficulties,  and  this  is  our  response,  in  advance. 

145 


BEETS. 

The  Beet  is  a  favorite  vegetable,  and  is  exceedingly  valuable,  being  in  use  almost  from  the 

time  the  seed-leaf  appears  above  ground 
until  we  are  looking  for  its  appearance  the 
next  year.  The  seeds  are  in 
little  groups  or  clusters  of  cal- 
yxes, as  seen  in  the  little  en- 
graving, so  that  each  rounded 
cluster  which  we  call  a  seed,  really  contains 
from  two  to  four  true  seeds.  The  conse- 
quence is  that  the  plants  come  up  much 
thicker  than  necessary,  and  must  be  thinned 
out.  There  is  nothing  in  the  way  of 
"greens"  as  good  as  these  young  Beets, 
and  the  thinnings  of  the  beds  can  be  used 
as  needed,  from  the  time  the  young  plants 
are  two  or  three  inches  in  length  until  they 
are  large  enough  for  ordinary  use.  To  pre- 
serve the  roots  in  fine  condition  during  the 
winter,  take  them  up  carefully  before  hard 
frosts,  and  pack  them  in  a  cool  cellar,  and 
cover  with  earth.  For  spring  use  they 
may  be  pitted  in  the  ground.  The  seeds 
germinate  more  surely  and  rapidly  if  put  in 
warm  water  and  allowed  to  soak  for  twenty- 
four  hours.  The  soil  should  be  rich,  mellow, 
and  deep.  Plant  in  drills,  about  two  inches 
deep,  and  the  rows  about  twelve  or  fifteen 

inches  apart.  Set  the  seeds  in  the  drills  about  two  inches  apart.  An  ounce  of  seed  will  sow 
about  seventy-five  feet  of  drill,  and  five  pounds  are  sufficient 
for  an  acre.  The  varieties'  of  Beets  are  very  numerous,  and 
quite  diversified  in  form  ?nd  appearance,  from  the  little 
round,  table,  turnip-formed  varieties,  to  the  large,  coarse 
sorts,  sometimes  three  feet  in  length,  and  fit  only  for  cattle. 
Figure  1  shows  the  Large  Red  Mangel,  one  of  the  best  for 
feeding  to  stock;  fig.  2,  the  Early  Blood  Turnip,  a  very 

smooth,  pretty  variety ;  fig. 
3,  the  Pine  Apple,  a  com- 
paratively new  and  good 
dark  variety ;  fig.  4,  Bas- 
sano,  an  old  favorite,  juicy 
sort,  tender  and  light  col- 
ored ;  fig.  5,  Dewing's  Tur- 
nip, a  week  earlier  than 
Blood  Turnip,  lighter 
fleshed,  and  an  excellent 
variety;  fig.  6,  Carter's 
Orange  Globe  Mangel, 
thought  in  England  to  be 
the  best  round  variety ;  fig. 
7,  the  old  and  excellent 
Long  Blood  Red.  The 
Swiss  Chard,  of  which  we 
show  the  leaves,  is  a  vari- 
ety of  Beet  cultivated  for  the  broad  leaf-stalks,  which  are  cooked  and  served  like  Asparagus. 
Plants  should  stand  a  foot  or  more  apart  in  the  rows,  and  the  rows  three  feet,  for  field  culture. 

146 


CABBAGE. 

The  Cabbage  requires  a  deep,  rich  soil  and  thorough  working.     If  these  requirements  are  met 
and  good  seed    planted,  there  is  no  difficulty  in  obtaining  fine,  solid  heads.     For  early  use,  the 


plants  should  be  started  in  a  hot-bed  or  cold-frame ;  but  seed  for  winter  Cabbage  should  be  sown 
in  a  seed-bed,  early  in  the  spring.  Some  gardeners  prefer  to  grow  plants  for  early  spring  Cab- 
bage in  a  frame  in  the  autumn,  protecting  them  with  boards  or  matting  during  the  winter,  but 
without  good  care  plants  saved  in  this  way  often  prove  a  loss.  In  a  mild  climate,  plants  may 
not  only  be  started  in  the  autumn,  but  transplanted,  and  will  make  considerable  growth  during 
the  winter  season.  Some  varieties  seem  to  do  best  if  the  seed  is  sown  in  the  hills  where  they 
f, 


are  to  remain ;  and  this  is  particularly  the  case  with  the  Marblehead  varieties.  Sow  two  or  three 
seeds  where  each  plant  is  desired,  and  then  pull  up  all  but  the  strongest.  The  large  varieties 
require  to  be  planted  about  three  feet  apart ;  the  small,  early  sorts,  from  a  foot  to  eighteen  inches. 

147 


Always  give  Cabbage  a  deep,  rich  soil,  and  keep  it  mellow  with  plenty  of  manure.     For  early 
winter  use,  store  a  few  in  a  cool  cellar.     The  main  crop  will  be  better  kept  out  of  doors,  set  in  a 

trench  closely,  head  down,  and  covered  with  straw 
and  earth.  There  is  almost  an  endless  variety  of 
Cabbage,  and  nearly  all  extensive  growers  have 
their  favorite  sorts.  Some  kinds  seem  to  succeed 
best  in  certain  localities.  The  Winningstadt,  for 
instance,  which  we  have  shown  in  figure  2,  seems 
peculiarly  adapted  to  the  South.  The  Jersey 
Wakefield  is  now,  no  doubt,  the  most  popular 
early  Cabbage  (see  fig.  1).  Early  Schweinfurth 
(fig.  3),  is  a  very  large  Cabbage,  and  matures 
early,  but  we  have  never  been  able  to  grow  solid 
heads.  Marblehead  Mammoth  is  a  large  solid 
Cabbage,  but  re- 
quires  a  very  rich 
soil,  early  plant- 
ing and  good  culture  (fig.  4).  Fig.  6  is  the  popular  Premium  Flat 
Dutch,  which  is  the  old  Flat  Dutch  somewhat  improved,  and  of 
American  growth.  Stone  Mason  Marblehead  is  represented  by 
fig.  7,  and  is  an  excellent  winter  Cabbage.  Fig.  8  is  the  Drum- 
head Savoy,  a  very  tender,  sweet  Cabbage,  very  hardy,  and 
improved  by  a  little  frost.  Figs.  5  and  10  are  the  Filderkraut, 
one  of  the  solidest  and  best  Cabbages  we  are  acquainted  with ; 
always  heads,  and  as  solid  as  any  one  can  wish.  We  give  two  ) 
engravings  of  this  fine  variety,  as  the  first  was  drawn  from  a 
specimen  taken  from  our  grounds  when  not  fully  matured. 
There  are  several  varieties  of  Pickling  Cabbage,  but  the  highest 
colored  and  best  is  one  we  introduced  several  years  since  from 
Europe,  known  as  Chappell's  Red  Pickling,  (fig.  9). 

COLLARDS,  or  what  is  now  known  as  Collards,  are  merely  young  Cabbage  plants.  The  usual 
plan  is  to  sow  the  seed  in  drills  about  half  an  inch  deep,  and  a  foot  apart.  When  these  plants 
are  a  few  inches  in  height,  they  are  pulled.  In  the  South,  sowings  can  be  made  through  the 
winter  every  few  weeks.  A  variety  very  popular  at  the  South,  and  thought  to  be  much  better 
than  any  of  the  common  cabbages,  is  called  Creole  Collards. 

CAULIFLOWER. 

The  most  delicate  and  delicious  of  all  the  Cabbage  family,  is  the  Cauliflower.  It  is  more 
delicate  and  tender  than  the  Cabbage,  and  therefore  requires  a  more  generous  treatment.  It 

delights  in  a  rich  soil  and 
abundance  of  water,  which  it 
would  be  well  to  apply  artifi- 
cially in  a  dry  season.  After 
seeing  the  splendid  cauliflower 
growing  around  Erfurt,  in 
Prussia,  and  observing  the 
pains  taken  in  its  culture,  I  did 
not  wonder  that  we  fail  in  our 
hot,  dry  climate.  Cauliflower 
there  is  grown  in  low,  swampy 
"^  ground,  which  is  thrown  up  in 
wide  ridges.  The  plants  are 
set  on  the  ridges,  and  between 
these  are  ditches  of  water. 
Every  dry  day  the  water  is  bailed  from  these  ditches  upon  the  growing  plants,  and  the  result  is 
cauliflower  of  enormous  size,  compact,  and  almost  as  white  as  snow.  The  engraving  will  give  a 

148 


pretty  good  idea  of  these  cauliflower  gardens,  and  the  process  of  watering.     In  the  ditches  water 
cress  is  grown,  both  for  cutting  and  seed.     Still,  we  must  say  that  we  have  never  seen  or  heard 

of  finer  Cauliflower  than  is  sometimes  grown  in 
the  South  and  West.  The  flower  buds  form  a 
solid  mass  of  great  beauty  and  delicacy,  called 
the  "  curd,"  and  its  appearance  is  shown  in  the 
engraving.  This  is  rendered  more  delicate  by 
being  protected  from  the  sun.  Break  off  one  or 
two  of  the  leaves,  and  place  them  upon  the 
flower.  Gardeners  sometimes  sow  seed  in  the 
autumn,  for  early  Cauliflower,  and  keep  the 
plants  over  in  frames;  but  by  sowing  the  early 
varieties  in  the  spring,  in  a  hot-bed  or  cold-frame, 
or  even  in  an  open  border,  they  can  be  obtained 
Egp  in  pretty  good  season.  For  late  Cauliflower,  sow 
"  seed  in  a  cool,  moist  place,  on  the  north  side 
of  a  building  or  tight  fence,  in  this  latitude,  about  the  first  of  May,  and  they  will  not  be  troubled 
with  the  little  black  beetle,  so  destructive  to  everything  of  the  Cabbage  tribe  when  young.  Do 
not  allow  the  plants  to  become  crowded  in  the  seed-bed.  Transplant  in  moist  weather,  or 
shade  the  newly  set  plants.  In  the  autumn,  plants  which  have  not  fully  formed  the  "  flower,"  or 
"  curd,"  may  be  taken  up  and  placed  in  a  light  cellar,  with  earth  at  the  roots,  and  they  will  gene- 
rally form  good  heads ;  or  they  may  be  hung  up  by  the  stems,  head  down,  in  a  cool  cellar,  and 
will  do  well. 

A  favorite  European  vegetable,  BROCOLI,  resembles  the  Cauliflower ;  indeed,  it  is  hardly 
possible  to  distinguish  the  two.  The  Brocoli,  however,  is  the  most  hardy,  and  in  portions  of 
Europe  where  the  seasons  are  mild,  remains  in  the  ground  all  the  winter,  furnishing  good  heads 
most  of  the  cold  season.  Of  course,  in  many  sections  of  our  country  Brocoli  would  not  suffer  in 
winter,  but  it  dislikes  severe  summer  heat  more  than  cold ;  and  to  succeed,  it  would  be  neces- 
sary to  grow  late  plants,  and  set  them  out  after  the  extreme  heat  of  summer  is  past. 

CRESS. 

The  Cresses  are  excellent  and  healthful  salad  plants,  of  a  warm,  pungent  taste,  and  are  much 
relished   by  almost   every  one,  especially  in  the   spring   season. 
When  young  and  tender  the  whole  plants  are  eaten,  but  when 
older,  the  leaves  only.     Cress  is  often  used  with  lettuce,  and  other  _j 
salad  plants,  and  the  Curled  is  very  good  for  garnishing.     Sow : 
the  seed  in  a  hot-bed  or  in  a  sheltered  spot  in  the  garden,  quite 
thick,  in  shallow  drills.     In  a  short  time  it  will  be  fit  for  cutting. 
Sow  a  little  every  week.     The  Water  Cress  is  a  great  luxury  to 
most  people,  and  cheaply  obtained  by  those  who  live  near  fresh 
water.     Scatter  a  little  seed  in  moist  places  on  the  edges  of  ponds 
or  brooks,  and  in  the  eddies  of  streams,  and  in  a  few  years  the 
shallow  water  will  be  stocked  with  plants.       The  engraving  with 
the  large  leaves  shows  a  branch  of  Water  Cress,  and  with  the  small  leaves  a  plant  of  Curled  Cress. 

CORN     SALAD. 

Corn  Salad  is  a  favorite  salad  plant  in  some  portions  of  Europe,  and  is  much  cultivated  in 

America  by  those  who  have  become  familiar  with  its  use 
across  the  sea.     Its  name  is  derived  from  the  fact  that  it 
is  found  abundantly  growing  in  wheat  fields.      Sown  in 
August,  and  protected  by  leaves  or  straw  during  the  win- 
ter, it  can  be  used  in  the    spring  very  early.     Sown    in 
April  or  May,  it  is  very  soon  fit  for  use.     The  leaves  are 
r    sometimes    boiled    and   served    as    spinach.      It    is    very 
^f  hardy.     Sow  as  for  lettuce,  in  rows,  covering  seed  only 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch.     Thin  out  the  plants  so  that 
they  will  be  three  or  four  inches  apart. 
149 


CARROTS. 

The  Carrot  should  always  be  furnished  with  a  good,  deep,  rich  soil,  and  as  free  from  stones 
and  lumps  as  possible;  and  if  a  rather  light  loam,  it  is  better  than  if  compact  and  heavy.  It  is 
waste  of  time  and  labor  to  try  to  grow  roots  of  any  kind  on  a  poor  or  unprepared  soil.  Seed 
should  be  got  in  early,  so  as  to  have  the  benefit  of  a  portion  of  the  spring  rains.  We  knew  a  part 
of  a  field  to  be  sown,  when  a  long  rain  interrupting  the  operator,  it  was  not  resumed  until  after 
the  soil  had  become  pretty  dry,  and  no  showers  coming  very  soon,  the  first  half  sown  pro- 
duced an  abundant  crop,  while  the  last  was  almost  a  failure.  Sow  in  drills  about  an  inch  deep, 


the  drills  about  a  foot  apart ;  and  at  thinning,  the  plants  should  be  left  at  from  four  to  ten  inches 
apart  in  the  rows,  according  to  kind.  The  Short  Horn  may  be  allowed  to  grow  very  thickly, 
almost  in  clusters.  To  keep  roots  for  table  use,  place  them  in  sand  in  the  cellar;  but  for  feed- 
ing, they  will  keep  well  in  a  cellar,  without  eovering,  or  buried  in  the  ground,  and  any 
desired  for  spring  use  may  be  pitted  out  of  the  way  of  frost.  An  ounce  of  seed  will  sow  about 
one  hundred  feet  of  drill,  and  two  pounds  is  the  usual  quantity  per  acre.  For  field  culture,  of 
course,  the  rows  must  be  sufficiently  distant  to  admit  of  running  the  cultivator  between  them. 
The  Carrot  is  mostly  used  in  America  for  soups,  and  for  this  the  smaller  and  finer  varieties  are 
grown.  The  Carrot  is  very  nutritious  and  is  relished  by  all  animals.  The  engraving  shows  the 
comparative  size  and  habit  of  growth  of  most  of  the  leading  varieties.  Figure  1,  Long  Orange ;  2, 
Orange  Belgian  Green-Top;  3,  Early  French  Short-Horn;  4,  White  Belgian  Green-Top;  5,  Early 
Very  Short  Scarlet ;  6,  Half- Long  Scarlet  Stump-Rooted;  7,  Altringham ;  8,  Half-Long  Scarlet. 

CHICORY. 

Chicory  is  used  in  Europe  as  a  salad  plant.  Seed  is  sown  in  the  spring,  in  drills  half  an  inch 
deep,  in  a  good,  mellow  soil ;  and  the  after  culture  is  the  same  as  for  Carrots. 
In  the  autumn,  the  plants  will  be  ready  for  blanching.  This  is  generally 
done  by  placing  a  box  over  them,  or  by  tying  the  tops  of  the  leaves  loosely 
together,  and  drawing  the  earth  well  up  the  plant.  The  greatest  value  of 
Chicory  is  as  a  substitute  for  coffee.  It  has  a  root  something  like  a  parsnip. 
They  are  washed  clean,  cut  into  pieces  that  will  dry  readily,  kiln-dried,  and 
then  they  are  ready  to  roast  and  grind  for  coffee.  The  prepared  root  is 
brought  from  Europe,  for  the  adulteration  of  coffee.  An  ounce  of  seed  will 
sow  about  one  hundred  feet  of  drill,  and  from  two  to  three  pounds  are 
required  for  an  acre.  The  second  season  the  Chicory  sends  up  a  flower  stem 
three  or  four  feet,  bearing  pretty,  bright  blue  flowers,  which  we  have  shown 
about  half  size  in  the  engraving.  It  is  so  hardy  there  is  danger  it  may 
become  a  troublesome  weed,  as  it  flourishes  on  the  road-sides  and  in  meadows  in  many  places. 

1-50 


CELERY. 

Celery  is  a  luxury  that  few  would  like  to  dispense  with,  and  fortunately  there  is  no  necessity 
for  such  a  sacrifice,  as  every  one  who  has  control  of  a  few  feet  of  ground,  with  a  little  skill  and 
industry,  can  grow  a  winter's  supply.     To  obtain  good  Celery,  it  is  necessary  that 
the  plants  should  be  strong  and  well  grown.       Sow  the  seeds  in  a  hot-bed  or  cold 
.  frame.     When  the  plants  are  about  three  inches  in  height,  transplant  to  a  nicely 
prepared  bed  in  the  border,  setting  them  about  four  or  five  inches  apart.      When 
some  eight  inches  high,  and  good  stocky  plants,  set  them  in  the  trenches  —  about 

the  middle  of  July  is  early  enough.  Too 
many  make  trenches  by  digging  out  the  top 
soil,  and  only  putting  a  few  inches  of  mold  at 
the  bottom,  and  never  obtain  good  Celery. 
The  trenches  should  contain  at  least  eighteen 
inches  of  good  soil  and  well  rotted  manure, 
in  about  equal  portions.  Take  off  all  suckers 
and  straggling  leaves  at  the  time  of  trans- 
planting. Earth  up  a  little  during  the  sum- 
mer, keeping  the  leaf  stalks  close  together, 
so  that  the  soil  cannot  get  between  them; 
and  during  September  and  October  earth  up 
well  for  blanching.  Those  who  grow  Celery 
for  market  extensively  do  not  use  trenches, 
but  make  the  soil  deep  and  rich,  and  plant 
in  rows,  earthing  up  with  the  plow.  The  time 
to  take  up  Celery  is  just  before  hard  frost. 
Dig  a  trench  about  the  width  of  a  spade  and 
a  few  inches  deeper  than  the  height  of  the  Celery.  The  place  selected  must  be  high  ground, 
where  no  water  will  be  at  the  bottom,  and  where  surface 
water  will  not  drain  into  the  trench.  Take  up  the  Celery 
with  any  dirt  that  may  happen  to  adhere  to  the  roots.  Set 
the  stalks  close  together,  and  close  to  the  sides  of  the  trench, 
but  do  not  press  them  in.  After  the  trench  is  filled,  place 
pieces  of  board  or  scantling  across  it  at  intervals  of  five  or 
six  feet,  one  of  these  pieces  being  shown  in  the  engraving. 
On  these  place  boards,  five  or  six  feet  long,  covering  the 

entire  trench.  Then 
cover  the  boards  with  a 
JT  good  body  of  straw  or 
leaves,  with  boards  or 
earth  on  top  to  keep  it 
from  blowing  away.  The 
work  is  then  completed. 
When  Celery  is  needed, 
take  up  a  length  of 
short  boards,  and  remove 
enough  Celery  to  the  cel- 
lar to  last  a  few  days, 
and  place  it  in  the  cool- 
est part,  covered  with 


earth.  Replace  the  boards  and  covering  as  before.  The  dwarf  Celeries  are  generally  the 
most  solid,  sweetest,  and  really  the  most  profitable.  The  pink  sorts  are  very  pretty  as  a  table 
ornament,  and  as  good  as  the  white,  though  there  seems  to  be  a  foolish  prejudice  against  the 
colored  varieties  in  this  country.  The  engravings  show  the  general  appearance  of  a  well 
grown  Celery  stalk,  also  of  a  variety  called  Boston  Market,  of  a  straggling  habit.  We  also 
show  the  Turnip-rooted  Celery,  the  bulbous  root  only  being  eatable. 

151 


CORN. 

We  need  not  consume  time  or  space  in  speaking  of  the  value  of  good  Sweet  Corn,  nor  of  its 
culture.  Every  sensible  person  knows  the  former,  and  every  sane  one  the  latter — at  least  so  it 
seems  to  us.  A  few  remarks  about  varieties  is  all  that  will  be  necessary.  The  earliest  good 
Sweet  Corn  we  are  acquainted  with  is  the  Minnesota  (fig.  1);  following  in  about  ten  or  twelve 


days,  is  Russell's  Prolific  (fig.  2);  Moore's  Early  Concord  (fig.  3)  is  in  eating  a  week  or  so 
after  Russell's,  and  Crosby's  Early  (fig.  4)  is  in  eating  about  the  same  time,  perhaps  a  day  or 
two  earlier.  It  is  very  thick,  twelve  or  sixteen-rowed.  Stowell's  Evergreen  (fig.  5)  is  a  mag- 
nificent late  variety,  keeping  in  eating  until  frost,  almost.  There  are  many  varieties  of  Parching 
Corn  ;  one  of  them  is  shown  in  fig.  6,  called  the  White  Parching. 

CUCUMBERS. 

The  hardiest  varieties — in  fact,  all  the  American  or  common  sorts  —  will  produce  a  medium 
and  late  crop,  if  the  seed  is  sown  in  the  open  ground  in 
well  prepared  hills,  as  soon  as  the  soil  becomes  sufficiently 
warm.  In  this  latitude  it  is  useless  to  plant  in  the  open 
ground  until  nearly  the  first  of  June.  Make  rich  hills  of 
well  rotted  manure,  two  feet  in  diameter  —  a  large  shovel- 
ful of  manure,  at  least,  to  each  hill  —  and  plant  a  dozen  or 
more  seeds,  covering  half  an  inch  deep.  When  all  danger 
from  insects  is  over,  pull  up  all  but  three  or  four  of  the 
strongest  plants.  The  middle  of  June  is  early  enough  to 
plant  for  pickling.  Make  the  hills  about  six  feet  apart. 
For  early  Cucumbers,  the  hot-bed  is  necessary;  but  the 
simplest  and  surest  way  to  produce  a  tolerably  early  crop 
of  the  best  kinds  is,  where  it  is  designed  to  place  a  hill, 
dig  a  hole  about  eighteen  inches  deep  and  three  feet 
across ;  into  this  put  a  barrow  of  fresh  manure,  and  cover 
with  a  small  box-like  frame,  on  the  top  of  which  place  a 
couple  of  lights  of  glass.  When  the  plants  grow,  keep  the  earth  drawn  up  to  the  stems.  Water 
and  give  air  as  needed ;  and  if  the  sun  appears  too  strong,  give  the  glass  a  coat  of  whitewash. 
By  the  time  the  plants  fill  the  frame,  it  will  be  warm  enough  to  let  them  out,  and  the  box  can  be 

152 


removed ;  but  if  it  should  continue  cold,  raise  the  box  by  setting  a  block  under  each  corner,  and 
let  the  plants  run  under.  The  Fourth  of  July  is  the  time  we  always  remove  the  boxes  or  frames. 
.  ^^^  -  Always  pick  the  fruit  as  soon  as  large  enough,  as  allowing 

any  to  remain  to  ripen  injures  the  fruiting  of  the  vine.  One 
pound  of  seed  is  sufficient  for  an  acre.  There  are  not  very 
many  varieties  of  hardy  Cucumbers.  Fig.  1  is  Improved 
Long  Green,  the  largest  of  American  sorts,  and  one  of  the 
best;  fig.  2,  Early  Frame,  a  good  variety  for  table,  and  for 
pickling  when  small ;  fig.  3,  Early  White  Spine,  an  excel- 
lent sort  for  table,  a  great  favorite,  and  forces  well ;  fig.  4, 
Early  Russian,  small,  very  productive,  and  the  earliest  of 
all ;  fig.  5,  Early  Green  Cluster,  next  in  earliness  to  the 
Russian,  generally  grows  in  pairs,  quite  productive  and 
esteemed  for  pickles.  There  are  very  many  foreign  varie- 
ties of  very  great  size  and  beauty,  and  of  excellent  quality, 
and  their  general  appearance  is  shown  in  the  annexed 
engraving.  They  range  in  length  from  eighteen  inches  to 
more  than  two  feet,  and,  when  well  grown,  as  straight  as  an  arrow.  They  are  called  frame  vari- 
eties, because  much  cultivated  in  frames  or  under  glass.  Some  of  the  hardiest  do  well  in  Amer- 
ica, if  coaxed  a  little  early  in  the  season  under  boxes  covered  with  glass,  as  recommended  for 


•our  hardy  sorts.  The  Long  Green  Southgate  and  the  Stockwood  we  have  found  the  best  for  the 
garden  in  this  latitude,  but  in  the  South  we  have  no  doubt  all  would  succeed  admirably.  Some 
persons  think  because  these  foreign  sorts  are  large,  that  they  are  coarse  and  scarcely  eatable. 
This  is  a  mistake.  They  are  fine-grained  and  very  solid,  having  very  few  seeds,  sometimes  not 
more  than  half-a-dozen  perfect  seeds  in  a  fruit.  Seed,  therefore,  is  always  scarce  and  dear. 

EGG    PLANT. 

A  tender  plant,  requiring  starting  in  the  hot-bed  pretty  early  to  mature  its  fruit  in  the  North- 
ern States.  The  seed  may  be  sown  with  tomato  seed ;  but  more  care  is  necessary  at  transplant- 
ing, to  prevent  the  plants  being  chilled  by  the 
change,  as  they  seldom  fully  recover.  'Hand- 
glasses are  useful 
for  covering  at  the 
time  of  transplant- 
ing. Those  who 
have  no  hot-bed 
can  sow  a  few  seeds 
in  boxes  in  the 
house.  There  are 
various  modes  of 
cooking,  but  the 
most  common  is  to 
cut  in  slices,  boil  in 
salt  and  water,  and 
then  fry  in  batter  or 

butter.  There  are  several  varieties,  but  the  largest  and  best  of  all  is  the  Improved  New  York 
Purple,  an  engraving  of  which  we  give.  The  Early  Long  Purple  is  the  earliest,  and  valuable  on 
that  account,  and  about  eight  or  nine  inches  in  length.  There  is  an  early  round  variety 
called  Round  Purple,  and  there  are  several  very  pretty  sorts  more  ornamental  than  useful. 

1.53 


RABi. 
Intermediate  between  the  Cabbage  and  the  Turnip  we  have  this  singular  vegetable.     The 

stem,  just  above  the  surface  of  the  ground,  swells  into  a  bulb  something  like  a  Turnip,  as  shown 
in  the  engraving.  Above  this  are  the  leaves,  somewhat  resembling 
those  of  the  Ruta  Baga.  The  bulbs  are  served  like  Turnips,  and  are 
very  delicate  and  tender  when  young,  possessing  the  flavor  of  both 
Turnip  and  Cabbage,  to  some  extent.  In  Europe  they  are  exten- 
sively grown  for  stock,  and  are  thought  to  keep  better  than  the 
Turnip,  and  impart  no  unpleasant  taste  to  milk.  Seed  sown  for 
a  general  crop,  in  the  spring,  like  the  Turnip,  in  drills ;  or  may  be 
transplanted  like  Cabbage.  For  winter  table  use,  sow  middle  of 
June.  One  advantage  claimed  for  the  Kohl  Rabi  is  that  it  suffers  less 
from  severe  drouth  than  the  Turnip,  and  therefore  a  crop  is  almost 

certain.     This  being  so,  it  must  be  well  adapted  to  culture  in  many  sections  of  our  country. 

LETTUCE. 

Lettuce  is  divided  into  two  classes;  the  Cabbage,  with  round  head  and  broad,  spreading 
leaves ;  and  the  Cos,  with  long  head  and  upright,  narrow  leaves.  The  Cabbage  varieties  are 
the  most  tender  and  buttery, 
and  the  Cos  the  most  crisp  and 
refreshing.  In  Europe,  the  Cos 
varieties  are  used  very  gener- 
ally. They  are  the  most 
liked  by  dealers,  because  they 
will  carry  better  and  keep  longer 
in  good  condition  than  the  Cab 
bage  sorts.  There  are  several 
varieties  with  loose,  curled 
leaves,  having  the  habit  of 
the  Cabbage,  though  not  form- 
ing solid  heads,  and  are  very 
pretty  for  garnishing,  but  other- 
wise not  equal  to  the  plain  sorts. 
Seed  sown  in  the  autumn  will 
come  in  quite  early  in  the 
spring,  but  not  early  enough  to 
satisfy  'the  universal  relish  for 
early  salad.  The  hot-bed,  there- 
fore, must  be  started  quite  early. 
Give  but  little  heat,  and  plenty 
of  air  and  water  on  fine  days.  Sow  a  couple  of  rows  thick,  in  the  front  of  the  frame,  to  be  used 
when  young  —  say  two  inches  in  height.  Let  the  plants  in  the  rest  of  the  bed  be  about  three 
inches  apart,  and,  as  they  become  thick,  remove  every  alternate  one.  Keep  doing  so,  as  required, 
and  the  last  will  be  as  large  as  Cabbages.  Sow  in  the  open  ground  as  early  as  possible;  or,  if 
you  have  plants  from  fall  sowing,  transplant  them  to  a  rich  soil,  giving  plenty  of  room  and  hoe 
well.  We  give  engravings  showing  the  appearance  of  the  Cabbage,  Cos  and  Curled  varieties. 

MARTYNIA. 

The  Martynia  is  a  hardy  annual  plant  of  robust  growth,  and  some  of  the  varieties  are  some- 
what grown  as  flowering  plants,  as  will  be  seen  by  reference 
to  page  76.  M.  proboscidea  produces  its  curious  seed-pods, 
shown  in  the  engraving,  quite  abundantly,  and  these,  when 
tender,  are  prized  by  a  good  many  for  pickling.  They 
should  be  gathered  before  getting  fibrous  or  "  stringy." 
A  little  experience  will  soon  make  the  matter  of  selecting  easy. 

164 


MELON. 

Those  who  have  their  homes  a  little  further  South  than  Rochester,  in  Maryland,  Delaware, 
Virginia,  and  in  most  of  our  Western  and  all  Southern  States,  enjoy  a  luxury  in  the  Melon  crop 
of  which  many  Northern  people  have  but  little  idea.  We  once  very  much  astonished  some  kind 
friends  in  England  because  we  preferred  well  ripened  English  Gooseberries  to  some  Melons  that 
had  been  procured  for  our  special  benefit ;  but  which,  though  softer,  were  not  much  richer  than 


Pumpkins.  The  Melon,  being  a  plant  of  tropical  origin,  reaches  perfection  only  in  a  warm  tem- 
perature, though  by  a  little  care  in  securing  a  warm,  sandy  soil,  a  sheltered,  sunny  position,  and 
a  little  skill  in  starting  plants  early,  fair  crops  are  grown  in  what  would  be  considered  unfavorable 
localities.  In  this  latitude  we  must  give  the  Melon  every  possible  advantage  to  secure  earliness 
and  thorough  ripening.  The  same  culture  as  recommended  for  Cucumbers  will  insure  success. 
The  striped  bug  is  the  great  enemy  of  the  Melon  and  other  vines,  and  the  best  safeguard  is  gauze 
protectors  of  any  simple  form  that  can  be  easily  and  cheaply  made.  There  are  two  distinct 
species  of  Melon  in  cultivation,  the  Musk  Melon  and  the  Water  Melon.  Our  engravings  show  a 
few  of  the  leading  varieties.  MUSK  MELON — Fig.  1,  Nutmeg;  2,  WTiite  Japanese;  3,  Casaba; 
4,  Prolific  Nutmeg.  WATER  MELON—  Fig.  5,  Black  Spanish;  6,  Mountain  Sweet;  7,  Citron, 
for  preserves. 

MUSTARD. 

Young  Mustard  is  used  as  a  salad  early  in  the  spring,  with  Cress,  Lettuce,  and  other  salad 
plants.  It  can  be  grown  in  hot-beds  as  early  as  desired,  and  in  the  spring,  being  very  hardy,  can 
be  sown  as  soon  as  the  soil  is  free  from  frost.  Sow  in  shallow  drills, 
and  cut  when  a  few  inches  in  height.  It  grows  very  rapidly ;  but  little 
will  be  needed,  and  several  sowings  should  be  made  at  intervals.  For 
a  crop  of  seed  sow  in  early  spring,  in  rows,  thin  out  the  plants  to  six 
inches  apart,  making  the  rows  about  eighteen  inches  apart  for  garden 
culture,  and  for  field  far  enough  for  the  cultivator.  The  Chinese  is  the 
best  for  Salad,  and  the  Black-seeded  is  usually  preferred  for  commerce, 
being  stronger  than  the  WTiite ;  but  the  White  is  chosen  by  many  on  account  of  its  mildness,  and 
is  the  kind  recommended  for  medicinal  purposes. 

156 


AMERICAN   ONIONS. 


ONIONS. 

The  Onion  must  have  a  clean  and  very  rich  soil,  or  it  will  not  do  well  enough  to  pay  for  the 
trouble.  Use  well  rotted  manure  freely,  and  be  sure  to  get  the  seed  in  as  early  as  possible  in 
the  spring,  no  matter  if  it  is  ever  so  cold  and  unpleasant,  for  if  Onions  do  not  get  a  good 
growth  before  hot,  dry  weather,  the  crop  is  sure  to  be  a  failure;  then  thin  out  early,  and 
keep  the  soil  mellow  and  clear  of  weeds,  and  if  your  seed  is  good,  you  will  have  a  large  crop 

of  Onions.  On  no  other  conditions  can  you 
hope  for  success.  The  Onion  is  very  sensitive, 
and  it  won't  do  to  slight  it  in  the  least.  Sow 
in  shallow  drills,  not  less  than  a  foot  apart. 
When  the  young  Onions  are  three  or  four 
inches  high,  thin  so  that  they  will  stand  about 
two  inches  or  more  apart,  according  to  kind. 
Disturb  the  roots  of  Onions  as  little  as  pos- 
sible, either  in  thinning  or  hoeing,  and  never 
hoe  earth  toward  them  to  cover,  or  hill,  as  we  do 
most  other  things.  Four  pounds  of  seed  are  suf- 
cient  for  an  acre.  American  Onions  are  quite 
different  from  those  of  Europe ;  they  are  generally  smaller,  with  a  finer  neck,  bulb  much  more 
freely,  are  stronger,  less  sweet,  and  much  better  keepers.  Our  little  engraving  show,s  the  lead- 
ing native  sorts  reduced  to  quite  one-sixth  natural  size.  Figure  1,  Wethersfield  Red;  fig.  2, 
Early  Red ;  3,  Danvers  Yellow ;  4,  Large  Yellow ;  5,  White  Portugal,  which  is  a  foreign  sort 
so  hybridized  or  acclimated  as  to  become  a  native. 

As  before  intimated,  while  the  European  varieties  of  Onions  lack  a  great  many  of  the  good 
qualities  belonging  to  the  "  native  Americans,"  they  possess  some  peculiar  to  themselves,  and 
which  certainly  entitle  them  to  favorable  notice.  They  are  mild,  sweet,  and  large.  It  is  no 
strange  sight  to  see  peasants  eat  for  their  dinner,  with  brown  bread  alone,  and  with  apparent  relish, 
an  onion  that  would  weigh  a  pound.  These  foreign  Onions  seem  to  succeed  pretty  well  in  the 
South.  We  thought  it  best  to  give  engravings  of  a  few  of  the  leading  sorts.  Fig.  6  represents 
the  Large  Strasburg;  7,  Large  Oval  Madeira;  8,  Large  Round  Madeira;  9,  White  Lisbon;  10, 
Silver-Skinned,  the  favorite  sort  for  pickles. 

For  several  years  past  there  has  been  a  good  deal  of  excitement  among  the  seedsmen  and 
gardeners  of  Europe,  respecting  some  new  Italian  Onions  of  monstrous  size,  and  very  mild,  supe- 
rior flavor.  Being  in  Europe  when  these  Onions  were  attracting  considerable  attention,  we  saw 
some  of  them  weighing  as  much  as  four  pounds,  and  had  the  best  of  evidence  of  their  fine 
flavor.  We  obtained  seed  and  sent  it  all  over  the  country,  particularly  to  the  South,  for  trial. 
The  reports  were  generally  favorable.  The  larger  kinds,  and  they  are  the  best,  are  wonderful  in 
size,  beautiful  in  appear- 
ance, sweet,  and  of 
pleasant  flavor,  and  ex- 
cellent for  summer,  au- 
tumn and  early  winter  6^HJI^"  M^//f  ITl^M  10 
use.  The  engravings 
represent  the  principal 
kinds,  very  much  re- 
duced, but  show  the 
comparative  size  and 
form.  Fig.  11,  New 
Giant  Rocca,  of  Naples, 
one  of  the  best ;  12, 

Blood  Red  Italian  Tripoli ;  13,  Large  White  Flat  Italian  Tripoli,  one  of  the  best ;  14,  Marzajola, 
verv  early,  but  not  as  large  or  showy  as  the  others. 

To  those  in  the  North  who  would  secure  a  good  crop  of  these  Onions  —  and  in  fact,  to  all 
who  have  difficulty  in  growing  a  crop  from  seed  early  —  we  advise  the  following  plan  :  Sow  the 
seed  thickly  in  rows  in  a  hot-bed  early.  When  severe  weather  is  over  and  the  glass  is 
wanted  for  other  purposes,  it  will  not  be  needed  for  the  Onions,  as  they  are  pretty  hardy. 

156 


FOREIGN   ONIONS. 


Keep  the  weeds  down,  and  about  the  time  for  sowing  Onion  seed,  transplant  these   Onions 
to  the  open  ground,  giving  them  a  rich  soil  and  plenty  of  room.     Every  one  will  form  a  large 

bulb,   and   very    early. 
13       — 


11 


NEW   ITALIAN   ONIONS. 


The  hot-bed  work  and 
transplanting  will  be 
some  trouble,  but  the 
troublesome  hoeing  and 
hand-weeding  and  thin- 
ning of  young  Onions 
will  be  avoided,  which 
all  Onion  growers  know 
is  no  small  labor.  We 
hope  many  of  our  read- 
ers will  try  a  few  in  this 
way,  at  least,  as  we 

have  pursued  vhis  course  of  culture  for  some  years  with  the  most  gratifying  results.  It  is  doubt- 
less known  to  most  of  our  readers  that  it  has  been  considered  difficult  to  grow  Onions  from 
seed  at  the  South,  because  the  warm  weather  checks  their  growth  before  bulbs  are  formed. 
The  hot-bed  plan  suggested  we  think  will  remedy  this  evil,  but  the  one  usually  pursued 
is  to  plant  what  is  called  ONION  SETS.  These  are  small  Onions,  about  the  size  of  large 
peas.  The  seed  is  sown  in  the  spring  in  broad  rows,  in  a  poor  soil,  and  very  thick,  where 
they  have  not  space  to  make  a  fair  growth.  About  twenty-eight  pounds  of  seed  are  sown  to 
the  acre.  The  result  is  a  large  quantity  of  stunted  Onions,  that  are  taken  up  in  July  and  dried 
thoroughly  on  the  ground.  They  are  then  stored  away  to  be 
sold  for  planting  the  following  spring.  These,  when  planted  in 
the  spring,  produce  good  Onions,  and  are  used  extensively  in 
the  South.  It  is,  of  course,  a  good  deal  of  labor  to  raise  a 
bushel  of  these  little  Onions,  and  they  generally  sell  at  high 
prices,  from  $10  to  $15  a  bushel. 

Another  Onion  very  largely  grown  by  those  who  cannot  suc- 
ceed with  seed,  or  who  want  early  green  Onions,  is  the  ENGLISH 
POTATO  ONION,  which  is  the  best  underground  variety.  A  large 
Onion  produces,  the  first  season,  under  ground,  a  large  cluster 
of  Onions,  like  that  shown  in  the  engraving,  but  the  size  is  POTATO  ONION. 

reduced.  Many  of  them,  with  good  culture,  will  be  half  the  size  of  ordinary  Onions.  These  are 
put  out  in  the  spring,  and  very  early  they  are  ready  for  use  as  summer  Onions,  and  are  a  great 
favorite  with  market  gardeners.  It  is  this  sort  that  is  usually  sold  in  bunches  in  the  markets. 
Those  that  are  allowed  to  remain  in  the  ground  during  the  summer  make  very  large  bulbs, 
to  be  sold  or  re-planted  the  next  spring  for  small  Onions.  They  are  rather  poor  keepers,  and  the 
practice  here  is  to  spread  them  on  the  floor  of  a  barn-loft  and  cover  with  straw,  where  they  will 
freeze  and  keep  frozen  all  the  winter.  They  will  then  be  in  pretty  good  condition,  but  if  kept  in 
a  warm  place  they  must  be  turned  every  day,  or  they  will  rot,  as  they  will  if  subjected  to  fre- 
quent freezing  and  thawing.  If  they  were  good  keepers  they  would  be  very  popular.  The 
price  is  always  high,  generally  about  $5  a  bushel. 

Another  variety  not  so  good  or  so  popular  as  Potato  Onion,  is 
the  TOP  ONION.  When  large  Onions  of  this  sort  are  planted, 
each  one  sends  up  a  strong  stem,  just  like  the  seed-stem  of  the  com- 
mon Onion,  but  instead  of  bearing  on  its  top  a  number  of  seeds 
it  produces  a  cluster  of  small  Onions,  just  as  we  show  in  the  engrav- 
ing. Next  spring  these  small  Onions  are  planted,  and  each  one  pro- 
duces a  full  sized  Onion.  They  can  be  eaten  during  the  summer, 
and  are  often  sold  in  bunches,  or  they  can  be  kept  for  winter  use  for 
spring  planting.  Each  of  these  large  Onions,  of  course,  produces 
a  cluster  of  small  ones  after  a  season's  growth.  Onion  culture  has 
become  such  an  important  interest,  throughout  our  country,  and  in  fact,  throughout  the  civilized 
world,  that  we  thought  it  important  to  give  pretty  thorough  information  on  this  subject. 

157 


TOP  ONIONS. 


OKRA. 

This  vegetable  is  a  native  of  the  West  Indies,  though  now  grown  in  almost  all  warm  coun- 

tries.  Its  green  seed- pods  are  used  in  soups,  to  which 
they  give  a  jelly-like  consistency,  as  they  abound  in 
mucilage,  like  all  of  the  Mallow  family.  It  is  consid- 
ered  very  nutritious,  and  exceedingly  grateful  to  stomachs 
n°t  over-strong.  The  common  name  South  is  Gumbo. 
It  is  of  the  easiest  possible  culture,  and  bears  well.  North 
it  would  be  best  to  sow  the  seeds  in  hot-beds,  and  trans- 
plant, except  in  favored  localities.  There  are  two  varie- 
ties generally  grown,  known  as  dwarf  and  tall.  The 
Okra  is  a  vigorous,  large  plant,  requiring  a  good  deal  of 
room,  and  the  large  kind  should  be  planted  not  less  than 
three  feet  apart,  and  the  dwarf  about  eighteen  inches.  In 
mild  climates  it  is  only  necessary  to  sow  the  seed  in  the  open 
ground,  about  two  inches  deep,  and  then  merely  keep  the 
ground  clean  and  mellow,  as  for  a  hill  of  corn.  We  have 
grown  good  Okra  here  by  sowing  in  the  open  ground  early  in  May,  in  a  warm  exposure  and  soil. 

PARSLEY. 

Parsley  is  a  hardy  biennial  plant,  and  therefore  is  in  use  two  seasons,  but  about  the  middle  of 
the  second  summer  it  goes  to  seed,  so  that  sow- 
ings  must  be  made  every  second  year.  Pars- 
ley seed  germinates  very  slowly ;  it  should 
be  started  in  a  hot-bed,  if  possible.  For  out- 
door sowing  always  prepare  the  seed  by 
placing  in  quite  hot  water  and  allowing  it 
to  soak  for  twenty-four  hours,  in  a  warm 
place.  When  the  plants  are  a  few  inches 
in  height,  set  them  in  rows,  three  or  four 
inches  apart.  Parsley  makes  a  pretty  edging 
for  the  walks  of  the  vegetable  garden.  As 
but  little  generally  is  needed,  if  sown  in  the 
garden  in  rows,  it  will  be  only  necessary 
to  thin  out  and  destroy  the  surplus  plants. 
Parsley  is  a  universal  favorite  for  soups, 
and  for  garnishing  there  is  nothing  so  good 
as  some  of  the  best  kinds.  Indeed,  it  has 
been  recommended  and  used  for  bouquets; 
but  one  poor  gardener  tried  it  only  once,  for  he  was  coolly  informed  by  the  lady  that  she 
wished  a  bouquet  for  the  parlor,  and  not  herbs  for  the  kitchen. 

PUMPKINS. 

The  Pumpkin  is  now  but  little  used,  except  for  agricultural  purposes,  the  Squashes  being  so 

much  sweeter  and  drier  and  finer  grained.  No  good  gar- 
dener, we  think,  would  tolerate  a  pumpkin  in  the  garden, 
nor  would  any  sensible  cook  allow  one  in  the  kitchen. 
Those  monster  kinds  that  we  see  occasionally  at  our  fairs 
are  the  worst  of  all.  The  farmer,  however,  finds  the  Pump- 
kin a  very  serviceable  addition  to  his  fall  feed,  and  probably 
as  long  as  Maize  is  grown  in  America  the  golden  Pumpkin 
will  gild  our  corn-fields  in  the  beautiful  Indian  summer  days 
of  autumn.  After  all,  a  good  many  will  think  what  we  say 
of  the  Pumpkin  all  nonsense,  and  perhaps  it  is.  We  shall 
not  certainly  disagree  about  so  small  a  matter  as  a  Pumpkin, 
and  some  persons  will  always  defend  the  good  old-fashioned  pumpkin  pie,  against  all  innovators. 

158 


PARSNIPS. 

The  Parsnip  flourishes  best,  and  gives  the  longest^  largest,  smoothest  roots  in  a  very  deep,  rich 
soil — one  that  has  been  made  rich  with  manure  the  previous  year.  Manure,  especially  if  fresh, 
makes  the  roots  somewhat  ill-shaped.  Sow  as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  ground  can 
be  made  ready,  in  drills,  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  apart,  and  about  an  inch 
deep.  Thin  the  plants  to  five  or  six  inches  apart.  An  ounce  of  seed  will  sow  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  of  drill  very  thickly.  Six  pounds  of  seed  is  the  usual  quantity 
sown  on  an  acre.  The  part  of  the  crop  required  for  spring  use  can  remain  in  the 
ground  during  the  winter.  If  a  portion  is  covered  heavily  with  leaves,  they  can  be 
dug  at  any  time.  A  few  can  be  stored  in  a  pit  or  cellar.  For  feeding  cattle,  no  root 
is  superior  to  the  Parsnip.  In  the  Island  of  Guernsey,  a  few  years  ago,  and  perhaps 
the  same  state  of  things  still  exists,  pigs  and  cattle  were  almost  or  entirely  fattened  on 
this  root.  We  have  always  thought  that  American  farmers  did  not  realize  the  value 
of  this  root.  In  field  culture  it  would  be  advisable  to  make  the  rows  wider  apart,  so 
as  to  admit  the  cultivator  one  way.  Although  from  the  ease  with  which  corn  is 
grown,  particularly  in  the  Western  States,  it  has  been  thought  that  there  is  no  great 
necessity  for  the  culture  of  roots  in  this  country,  we  have  no  doubt  that  their  more 
general  growth  would  be  of  material  advantage  in  many  ways,  especially  in  the  older 
sections  of  the  country.  Animals  always  thrive  better,  and  are  more  healthy  on  a 
somewhat  mixed  diet  in  which  roots  form  an  important  part.  This  fact  our  best 
farmers  are  fast  learning.  As  the  Parsnip  is  not  injured  by  frost  it  seems  well 
adapted  to  general  culture.  Every  one  who  visits  any  of  the  agricultural  exhibitions  of  Canada, 
must  notice  the  great  attention  given  to  root  culture  in  that  country,  as  shown  by  the  quantity 
and  quality  of  those  exhibited.  There  are  several  varieties  of  Parsnips,  but  we  have  found  little 
difference,  and  the  old  Hollow  Crown  seems  as  good  as  any.  Roots  that  are  allowed  to  remain 
in  the  ground  during  the  winter  are  better  flavored  than  those  dug  in  the  fall.  As  the  roots  go 
very  deep,  and  seem  to  have  an  unusually  firm  hold  of  the  soil,  if  they  are  carelessly  dug  more 
than  half  will  be  broken,  which  is  a  great  injury  to  the  crop. 

PEPPERS. 

There  are  perennial  shrubby  or  woody  Peppers,  and  very  beautiful  plants  they  are  when  seen 
growing  in  their  tropical  homes.  WThat  we  cultivate  is  an  annual  species,  from  India.  The  pod  or 
fruit  is  in  demand  in  every  kitchen,  and 
very  large  quantities  are  grown  to  supply 
our  large  cities  and  the  manufacturers  of 
pickles,  and  it  is  used  somewhat  freely  in 
medicine.  Sow  the  seeds  early  under 
glass,  if  possible,  and  transplant  only  when 
the  weather  has  become  steadily  mild.  If 
no  hot-bed  is  to  be  had,  prepare  a  seed- 
bed in  a  warm  place  in  the  garden,  and 
sow,  in  the  Middle  and  Northern  States, 
in  May,  and  transplant  when  the  plants  are 
about  three  inches  in  height.  As  usually 
only  a  few  plants  are  needed,  it  is  well  to 
sow  the  seeds  where  the  plants  are  to 
remain,  and  thin  them  out  to  about  a  foot 
apart.  The  fruit  is  often  used  green,  but 
will  be  ripe  in  September.  There  are  sev- 
eral varieties,  ranging  in  height  from  one  to 
three  feet,  while  the  fruit  varies  from  the 
Little  Cayenne  to  the  great  French  Monstrous,  six  inches  in  length.  Fig.  1  shows  Long  Red ; 
2,  Cayenne  ;  3,  Tomato-formed ;  4,  Monstrous,  or  Grossum.  The  Large  Bell,  and  several  other 
large  sorts,  differ  little  from  the  Tomato-formed,  but  larger.  The  Sweet  Mountain,  or  Mam- 
moth, is  very  large,  mild,  with  thick  flesh,  and  is  pickled,  stuffed  like  mangoes.  The  engraving 
shows  Cayenne  of  natural  size  ;  all  others  are  very  much  reduced. 

159 


PEAS. 

The  Pea  is  very  hardy,  and  will  endure  a  great  amount  of  cold,  either  in  or  above  the  ground ; 
and  as  we  all  want  "  green  peas  "  as  early  as  possible  in  the  season,  they  should  be  put  in  as  early 
as  the  soil  can  be  got  ready  —  the  sooner  the  better.  Peas  are  divided  by  seedsmen  and  gar- 
deners into  three  classes,  Early,  Second  Early  and  Late.  The  earliest  are  mostly  small,  round, 

smooth  and  hardy,  the  tallest  not  growing  more  than 
from  two  to  three  feet  in  height.  Of  late  years  some 
very  fine  dwarf,  sweet,  wrinkled  sorts,  like  Little  Gem, 
have  been  added  to  this  class,  of  very  great  merit.  The 
Second  Early  contain  a  list  of  excellent  wrinkled  varie- 
ties, like  Eugenie.  The  Late  are  large,  mostly  wrink- 
led, and  formerly  were  nearly  all  tall,  like  the  Cham- 
pion of  England,  but  very  many  excellent  dwarfs  have 
been  added  to  the  list,  like  Yorkshire  Hero.  If  the 
Earliest  sorts  are  planted  about  the  first  of  April,  in  this 
latitude,  they  will  be  fit  to  gather  in  June,  often  quite 
early  in  the  month.  The  Second  will  come  in  about  the 
Fourth  of  July.  By  sowing  two  or  three  varieties  of 
Early ,  and  the  same  of  Second  and  Late,  as  soon  as 
practicable  in  the  spring,  a  supply  will  be  had  from 
early  in  June  to  late  in  July,  with  only  one  sowing. 
After  this  Sweet  Corn  will  be  in  demand.  Sow  in  drills 
not  less  than  four  inches  deep,  pretty  thickly  —  about  a 
pint  to  forty  feet.  The  drills  should  not  be  nearer  than 
two  feet,  except  for  the  lowest  sorts.  Those  growing 
three  feet  high,  or  more,  should  not  be  nearer  than 
three  or  four  feet.  As  they  are  early  off  the  ground, 
Cabbage  can  be  planted  between  the  rows,  or  the  space 
can  be  used  for  Celery  trenches.  All  varieties  growing 
three  feet  or  more  in  height  should  have  brush  for  their 
support.  The  large,  fine  wrinkled  varieties  are  not  as 
hardy  as  the  small  sorts,  and  if  planted  very  early,  should 
have  a  dry  soil,  or  they  are  liable  to  rot.  Keep  well 
hoed  up  and  stick  early.  When  grown  extensively  for 
market,  Peas  do  well  sown  on  ridges  made  by  the  plow, 
two  rows  on  each  ridge,  and  not  slicked,  the  pea  vines 
drooping  into  the  furrows.  In  response  to  the  inquiry 
so  often  made,  why  we  cannot  sow  Peas  late,  and  thus 
have  them  in  eating  all  through  the  summer,  and  why 
Peas  are  "  buggy,"  we  will  say  that  the  Pea  delights  in 
a  cool,  moist  climate,  and  suffers  in  warm,  dry  weather.  Those  planted  late  will  most  likely  be 
attacked  with  mildew,  and  never  give  half  a  crop.  The  Pea,  when  grown  in  a  tolerably  mild 
climate,  is  troubled  with  a  weevil,  the  egg  being  laid  in  the  pea  when  it  is  very  small,  through 
the  pod.  The  way  to  obtain  sound  Peas  for  seed,  is  to  grow  them  where  the  weevil  does  not  exist. 

RHUBARB. 

The  Rhubarb,  or  Pie-Plant,  is  usually  grown  from  divisions  of  the  roots,  for  every  portion 
which  has  an  eye  will  form  a  plant.  Occa- 
sionally persons  prefer  to  grow  from  se.eds. 
It  will  take  two  years  to  obtain  a  strong  plant 
from  seed,  but  a  package  of  seeds  in  two 
years  will  give  enough  plants  to  stock  a  neigh- 
borhood. Give  a  good,  rich,  deep,  mellow 

soil,  both  to  seeds  and  plants.     In  the  spring,  two  weeks  before  frost  is  gone,  cover  two  of 
finest  roots  with  barrels.     Then  throw  over  the  roots  and  around  the  barrels  leaves,  straw  or 
manure,  and  the  earliest  and  tenderest  stalks  will  be  the  result. 

160 


RADISHES. 
Radishes  are  divided  into  two  classes.  Spring  and  Winter,  or  as  denominated  in  some  of  the 

book.;,  Summer  and  Autumn.     The  Spring  varieties  are  much  smaller  than  the  Winter,  tender, 

arrive  at  maturity  in  a  very  brief  time, 
and  very  soon  become  over-grown  and 
worthless.  The  winter  sorts  mature 
more  slowly,  are  large,  very  solid,  and 
with  proper  care  keep  a  long  time. 

The  SPRING  RADISH  must  make  a 
rapid  growth  to  be  fit  for  use;  it  will 
then  be  crisp  and  tender,  and  of  mild 
flavor.  If  grown  slowly,  it  will  be  hard, 
fibrous,  and  disagreeably  pungent.  For 
early  use,  seed  should  be  sown  in  the 
hot-bed,  in  drills  four  or  five  inches  apart 
and  half  an  inch  deep.  Thin  out  the 
young  plants  so  that  they  will  stand  two 
inches  apart  in  the  rows.  Give  plenty  of 
light  and  air,  or  they  will  become  drawn 
—  that  is,  slender  and  worthless.  For 
out-door  beds,  select  a  warm,  sunny  loca- 
tion, with  a  sandy  soil.  A  little  new 
earth  from  the  woods,  as  a  top-dressing, 
before  the  seeds  are  sown,  will  be  of 
great  service.  A  top-dressing  of  soot,  or 

even  coal  ashes,  will  be  of  much  benefit,  as  we  have  found  by  long  experience.     The  great  point 

is  to  get  the  plants  to  grow  rapidly  after  the  seed-leaf 

appears  above  ground,  so  as  to  be  out  of  the  way  of  the 

black  beetle  that  proves  so  troublesome  when  they  a*e 

young,  puncturing  every  leaf.      Sow  soot,  ashes,  or 

dust  over  them  frequently,  as  the  beetle  dislikes  gritty 

food.     Our  engraving  shows  a  few  of  the  leading  vari- 

ties,  fig.  1  representing  Red  Turnip ;  2,  Rose  Olive- 
Shaped;  3,  Scarlet  Olive-Shaped,  with  white  tip;  4,  I 

Long  White  Naples,  an  excellent  variety  for  growing  I 

late  in  the  season ;  5,  Long  Scarlet  Short-Top. 

The  WINTER  RADISH  should  be  sown  in  July  or  I 

August,  about  the  time  of  Turnip  sowing.     They  may  I 

be  kept  in  a  cool  cellar  and  covered  with  earth  for  ^ 

winter  use.     Put  them  in  cold  water  for  an  hour  before    gj. 

using.     The  engraving  represents  the  principal  varie-    1 

ties  of  winter  Radishes  —  indeed,  all  worthy  of  culture,     ft 

These  Radishes  are  every  year  becoming  more  pop- 

ular,  and  particularly  so  since  the  introduction  of  the 

newer  Chinese  varieties ;  though   for   that  matter  we 

are  indebted  to  China  for  all  our  Radishes.     Fig.  6  is 

the   California  Mammoth   White  Winter,  a   splendid 

variety  which  we  saw  in  San  Francisco,  more  than  a  foot  in  length,  and  as  crisp  and  tender  as 

one  could  desire ;  it  was  brought  to  California  by  Chinese  emigrants.     Fig.  7,  Chinese  White 

\Vinter ;  8.  Black  Round  Spanish ;  9,  Chinese  Rose  Winter. 

SALSIFY,    or    OYSTER    PLANT. 

A  delicious  vegetable.     C^t  into  small  pieces,  it  makes  a  fine  soup,  like  that  from  oysters.     It 

is  also  par-boiled,  grated  fine,  made  into  small 
balls,  dipped  into  batter,  and  fried.     Culture 
same  as  for  Carrots  and  Parsnips. 
161 


SQUASHES. 

The  Squashes  are  an  interesting  and  useful  class  'of  vegetables ;  interesting  because  present- 
ing such  a  variety  of  forms ;  of  their  usefulness  we  need  not  say  a  word.      The    Squashes   are 

of  tropical  origin,  and 
therefore  it  is  useless  to 
plant  them  until  the  soil 
is  quite  warm,  and  all 
danger  of  frost  or  cold 
nights  is  over;  and  as 
they  make  a  very  rapid 
growth  there  is  no  neces- 
sity of  haste  in  getting 
the  seed  in  the  ground. 
We  usually  divide  the 
Squashes  into  two 
classes,  Summer  and 
Winter.  The  SUMMER 
SQUASHES  are  eaten 
when  the  rind  and  flesh 
are  tender,  about  mid- 
summer. The  best  of 
this  class  are  the  Crook- 
Neck  and  Scollop,  and 
these  are  what  are  called 
bush  varieties,  and  do 
not  run.  The  WINTER 
SQUASHES  are  allowed  to  ripen  thoroughly  before  gathering,  and  are  then  stored  away  for  winter 
use.  A  good,  cool  cellar  will  preserve  these  winter  Squashes  until  May,  if  well  ripened.  The 
winter  varieties  are  all  runners,  we  believe.  The  best  winter  Squash  is  the  Hubbard,  fig.  1, 
and  if  pure  and  well  ripened,  and  decently  cooked,  it  is  almost  as  good  as  a  Sweet  Potato. 
Fig.  2  represents  the  Marblehead,  another  excellent  winter  Squash,  ^^SPi/lfci^.  3 

but  we  think  hardly  equal  to  the  Hubbard.  Fig.  3,  Scollop,  or  Pie- 
formed,  a  good  sort, 
and  liked  by  market 
gardeners,  because 
the  rind  is  somewhat 
hard,  and  it  bears 
shipping  well.  Fig. 
4  is  the  excellent 

summer  Crook-Neck,  one  of  the  best,  if  not  the  best,  of  the  whole  race  ot  Summer  Squashes. 
Squashes  are  good  feeders,  and  like  a  rich  soil ;  it  is  best  to  manure  in  the  hill.  Sow  a  dozen 
seeds  in  each  hill,  and  when  danger  from  "  bugs  "  is  over  pull  up  all  but  three  or  four.  A  mel- 
,low,  warm  soil  is  best.  For  bush  sorts,  make  hills  three  or  four  feet  apart,  and  for  the  running 
kinds  twice  this  distance. 

SPINACH. 

To  grow  Spinach  in  perfection,  the  soil  must  be  rich.  Sow  in  the  autumn  for  spring  use,  in 
good  drained  soil,  in  drills  a  foot  apart.  As  soon  as  the  plants  are  well 
up,  thin  them  to  about  three  inches 
apart  in  the  rows.  Covering  with  a 
little  straw  or  leaves  before  winter  is 
useful  but  not  necessary.  For  sum- 
mer use,  sow  as  early  as  possible  in 
the  spring.  There  are  two  popular 

varieties,  the  principal  distinction  being  that  one  has  a  round  seed,  and  the  other  with 

points,  and  called  prickly.     These  we  have  shown  in  the  engraving. 

162 


TOMATOES. 

The  Tomato  is  more  generally  used  in  America  than  in  any  country  in  the  world.  The 
amount  consumed  seems  wonderful,  especially  when  we  consider  how  brief  the  time  since  its  first 
introduction  as  an  article  of  diet.  Almost  every  one  likes  it,  and  most  persons  regard  it  as  a 
great  luxury ;  but  the  Tomato  is  so  slow  perfecting  its  fruit  that  it  is  quite  after  the  middle  of 
summer,  and  at  the  end  of  most  people's  patience,  before  the  ripened  fruit  can  be  enjoyed.  To 


obtain  early  varieties,  therefore,  is  the  great  desire  of  all,  and  it  is  no  strange  thing  to  have  varie- 
ties advertised  as  two  weeks  earlier  than  any  other  kind,  that  are  entirely  worthless  in  all  respects, 
not  even  having  the  merit  of  earliness.  We  are  satisfied  that  Hubbard's  Curled  Leaf  is  the  ear- 
liest Tomato  grown,  and  this  is  its  only  merit,  for  it  is  small  and  far  from  being  smooth.  The 
plant  is  small  and  will  bear  close  planting,  the  leaves  curling  as  if  wilted.  Gen.  Grant  is  an 
excellent  early  Tomato,  about  ten  or  twelve  days  later  than  the  Curled  Leaf,  but  Hathaway's 
Excelsior  is  as  early  as  Gen.  Grant,  and  the  best  Tomato  we  are  acquainted  with.  It  received  a 
certificate  of  merit  from  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  of  England,  is  pronounced  by  the  press 
of  Europe  the  best  variety  produced,  and  is  everywhere  popular.  It  is  smooth,  solid,  of  good 
flavor,  excellent  color  and  productive.  Pinching  off  a  portion  of  the  side  branches,  and  stopping 
others  beyond  where  the  fruit  is  formed,  hastens  the  ripening  very  much.  To  obtain  plants  early, 
sow  seed  in  the  hot-bed  early  in  March.  In  about  five  weeks  they  should  be  transplanted  to 
another  hot-bed,  setting  them  four  or  five  inches  apart.  Here  they  should  remain,  having  all  the 
air  possible,  and  becoming  hardened,  until  about  the  middle  of  May,  when  they  may  be  put  out 
in  the  ground ;  that  is,  if  there  is  no  danger  of  frost.  Very  good  plants  can  be  grown  in  boxes 
in  the  house,  starting  them  even  in  the  kitchen.  Those,  of  course,  who  live  in  a  southern  clime 
will  be  spared  a  good  deal  of  this  care.  The  soil  for  early  Tomatoes  should  not  be  too  rich,  and 
a  warm,  sheltered  location  selected,  if  possible.  The  Tomato  may  be  made  very  pretty  by  train- 
ing on  a  fence  or  trellis,  like  a  grape-vine.  No  plant  will  better  bear  trimming.  We  have  tested 
hundreds  of  varieties  of  Tomatoes  in  our  grounds  during  the  past  ten  years.  Every  season  we 
put  on  trial  every  new  kind  we  can.obtain  from  any  source,  and  feel  quite  competent  to  speak  on 
the  subject.  Still,  we  can  jftee  well  of  the  influence  of  soil  and  climate  only  as  we  receive 
reports  from  our  friends  in  dUKcnt  sections  of  the  country. 

The  engraving,  fig.  1,  represents  the  Cherry  Tomato,  useful  only  for  pickling;  2,  Persian  Yel- 
low ;  3,  Hathaway ;  4,  Gen.  Grant ;  5,  Early  Smooth  Red ;  6,  Curled  Leaf.  All  are,  of  course, 
very  much  reduced  in  size,  though  very  well  representing  the  form  and  characteristics  of  each. 

163 


ENGLISH   TURNIPS. 


TURNIPS. 

There  are  two  quite  distinct  species  of  Turnips  grown,  one  called  the  English   Turnip,  and 
the  other  the  Swede,  or  Ruta  Baga   Turnip.      As  they  require  somewhat  different  treatment, 

serious  mistakes  are  some- 
times made  on  that  point. 
In  ordering  seeds,  care 
should  be  taken  to  state 
which  kind  is  desired. 
The  English  Turnip,  if 
designed  for  early  use, 
should  be  sown  soon  as  the 
ground  can  be  prepared 
in  the  spring,  so  as  to 
have  the  benefit  of  early 
showers,  for  the  Turnip 
will  not  grow  in  dry,  hot 
weather.  For  the  main 
crop,  for  fall  and  winter 
use,  sow  in  August,  and 
the  plants  will  have  the 
benefit  of  the  autumn 
rains.  *  If  the  weather 
should  prove  dry,  the  crop 
will  be  light.  The  soil 
for  Turnips  should  be  rich  and  mellow.  Sow  in  drills,  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  apart,  and 
half  an  inch  deep.  When  the  plants  are  a  few  inches  in  height,  and  strong  enough  to  resist  the 
attack  of  insects,  thin  them  out  to  some  five  or  six  inches  apart  in  the  drills.  Two  pounds  of 
seed  are  sufficient  for  an  acre. 
Fig..  1  represents  the  Strap- 
Leaved  Purple-Top;  2,  Orange 
Jelly;  3,  Yellow  Malta;  5, 
Jersey  Navet ;  7,  White  Nor- 
folk. 

The  SWEDE,  or  RUTA  BAGA 
TURNIPS  are  large,  very  solid, 
perhaps  the  most  solid  vegeta- 
ble that  grows.  The  flesh  of 
nearly  all  the  varieties  are  yel- 
low. They  do  not  grow  as 
rapidly  as  the  English  Turnips, 
and  should  be  sown  as  early  as 
the  first  of  June.  The  rows 
should  be  about  eighteen  inches  SWEDE  TURNIPS. 

apart,   and   the    plants   in    the 

rows  not  less  than  ten  inches.  The  engravings  show,  fig.  4,  Carter's  Imperial  Purple-Top ;  fig. 
6,  Green-Top.  We  do  not  suppose  that  a  warm,  dry  climate  will  ever  be  considered  favorable 
to  Turnip  culture,  and  yet  we  never  saw  better  crops  in  the  most  favored  districts  of  England 
than  we  have  seen  in  America.  It  is  only  in  exceptionally  dry  seasons  that  our  crop  fails,  with 
good  culture.  A  soil  rich  in  phosphates  is  necessary  for  a  large  crop,  hence  all  bone  manures 
are  exceedingly  valuable.  With  proper  Turnip  food  and  a  moist  season  success  is  almost  certain. 
There  is  then  only  one  enemy  to  be  conquered.  The  little  black  flea,  or  Turnip  beetle,  is  very 
destructive  when  the  plants  are  in  the  seed-leaf,  but  with  a  fair  sAon  and  a  rich  soil  the  plants 
are  soon  in  the  rough  leaf,  when  they  are  troubled  no  longer.  Some  good  farmers  sow  twice  the 
usual  quantity  of  seed,  and  in  this  way  save  plenty  from  the  little  enemy,  and  this,  we  have  no 
doubt,  is  the  safest  and  most  economical  way,  for  it  is  better  to  feed  them  on  plants  that  we  do  not 
need  than  on  those  upon  which  the  crop  depends. 

164 


SWEET    AND    POT    HERBS. 

A  few  fragrant,  or,  as  they  are  sometimes  called,  Sweet  or  Pot  Herbs,  constitute  a  little 
treasury  upon  which  the  house-keeper  will  find  occasion  to  make  almost  constant  drafts,  and 
these  will  be  honored  from  early  summer  until  autumn.  A  good  reserve  can  also  be  stored 
in  some  closet  or  store  room  for  winter  use.  As  a  general  rule  it  is  best  to  cut  herbs  when  in 
flower  and  dry  in  the  shade,  and  they  dry  more  evenly  and  in  better  shape  if  tied  up  in  small 


SUMMF.R   SAVORY. 


ROSEMARY. 


bunches  and  hung  in  the  shade.  For  soups  and  dressing  for  poultry  these  herbs  are  a  necessity 
in  the  estimation  of  most  persons,  while  as  domestic  medicines  several  kinds  are  held  in  high 
repute.  The  Sage  and  its  uses,  of  course,  every  one  is  acquainted  with.  The  Broad-leaved 
English  is  the  best.  Thyme,  is  of  universal  cultivation,  as  is  also  Summer  Savory.  Rosemary 
^s  a  very  fragrant  herb,  and  is  everywhere  popular.  Borage  is  a  beautiful  plant,  with  azure  blue 
flowers,  pretty  enough  for  any  flower  garden.  It  is  much  used  in  Europe  for  flavoring  Claret  and 
other  wines.  We  give  a  list  of  the  herbs  generally  cultivated  and  prized,  either  by  the  cook  or 
the  nurse. 


Anise. 

Balm, 

Basil,  Sweet, 

Borage, 

Caraway, 

Coriander, 


Cumin, 

Dill, 

Fennel,  Large  Sweet, 

Horehound, 

Hyssop, 

Lavender, 


Marjoram,  Sweet, 

Rosemary, 

Rue, 

Saffron, 

Sage, 

Savory,  Summer, 


Savory,  Winter, 
Thyme,  Broad- Leaved 

English, 

Thyme,  Summer, 
Thyme,  'Winter, 
Wormwood. 


A  very  small  space  in  the  garden  will  give  all  the  herbs  needed  in  any  family.       The  culture 
is  very  simple,  and  the  best  way  is  to  make  a  little  seed-bed  in  the  early  spring,  and  set  the 


LAVENDER.  HYSSOP.  SWEET  MARJORAM.  SWEET   BASIL. 

plants  out  as  soon  as  large  ei^^jh  in  a  bed.  The  trouble,  therefore,  is  trifling,  while  the  expense 
is  comparatively  nothing,  as  a  paper  of  either  can  be  obtained  for  five  cents,  and  will  contain 
more  seeds  than  any  one  will  be  likely  to  need.  In  a  mild  climate  some  kinds  will  live  over  the 
winter,  but  they  are  so  easily  grown  from  seed  that  saving  old  plants  is  not  of  much  consequence. 

16.r> 


LEEK. 
The   Leek  is  a  vegetable  not  much  grown  in  America,  except  by  market  gardeners  in  the 

neighborhood  of  large  cities.  It  is  of  the  Onion  family,  and  partakes  alike  of  its  flavor  and 
fragrance,  but  never  forms  a  rounded  bulb.  The  Leek  has  the  appearance  of  what 
is  known  as  "  scallions"  among  Onions.  The  long,  thick  neck  or  tunicated  bulb, 
when  well  grown  and  blanched,  is  white  for  several  inches,  and  nearly  to  the  leaves, 
and  this  is  used  for  flavoring  soups,  and  is  sometimes  served  as  Asparagus.  The 
seed  is  generally  sown  in  the  spring  in  a  seed-bed,  and  the  young  plants  tran>- 
planted  about  the  first  of  July,  or  after  an  early  crop  of  Lettuce  or  Peas  have  been 
taken  from  the  ground.  The  Leek  requires  earthing  up  so  as  to  let  as  much  of  the 
stem  blanch  as  possible.  Some  growers  plant  in  shallow  trenches.  It  is  not  neces- 
sary to  transplant,  as  the  seed  can  be  sown  in  rows  and  thinned  out,  as  for  Onions, 
and  then  earthed  up.  The  Leek  requires  a  rich,  clean  soil.  In  mild  climates  the 
Leek  may  be  allowed  to  remain  in  the  ground  all  winter,  to  be  gathered  as  needed ; 
but  in  cold  climates  they  are  taken  up  and  stored,  like  Celery,  for  winter  and  spring 
use.  The  Leek  will  bear  20  degrees  of  frost  without  injury.  At  transplanting  set 

the  plants  rather  deep.      The  demand  for  this  seed  has  been  so  small  that  we  have  several  times 

omitted  it  from  our  list.     The  engraving  shows  the  appearance  of  the  Leek  with  the  top  removed, 

ready  for  bunching  for  market.     Six  or  eight  are  usually  put  in  a  bunch. 

ENDIVE. 

Endive  is  another  plant  but  little  inquired  for  in  this  country,  and  yet  it  is  an  excellent  autumn 
and  winter  salad.  It  is  naturally  very  bitter,  but  this  is  much 
lessened  by  blanching.  The  Endive  is  thought  to  be  a  native  of 
China.  For  growing,  select  a  cool,  moist  situation,  such  as 
would  answer  for  growing  Lettuce  in  the  summer.  Sow  the 
seed  late  in  the  spring,  or  even  as  late  as  July,  in  shallow  drills, 
and  when  the  plants  are  strong  thin  out  so  that  they  will  stand  ^ 
about  a  foot  apart.  Towards  fall  gather  up  the  plant  in  a  conical  """ 
form,  and  tie  near  the  top.  The  outside,  coarse  leaves  will  keep 
the  plant  in  shape  and  blanch  those  inside  near  the  heart.  Sometimes  a  little  earth  is  drawn 
toward  the  plant.  Plants  not  needed  for  autumn  use  can  be  taken  up  and  planted  in  a  bed  of 
earth  in  the  cellar,  the  tops  being  tied  up,  and  the  roots  only  in  the  earth.  In  this  way  they  will 
keep  until  spring.  Be  sure  that  the  plants  are  dry  when  they  are  tied  up  or  stored  in  the  cellar. 


[Vick's  Flower  and  Vegetable  Garden  is  published  by  JAMES  VICK,  Rochester,  N.  Y.  Price,  in  paper 
covers,  50  cents  ;  bound  in  handsome  cloth  covers,  Ji.oo.  At  this  price  it  will  be  sent  by  mail,  postage  paid, 

to  any  part  of  the  world. 

Every  year,  on  the  first  of  December,  we  publish  a  Priced  Catalogue  of  Seeds,  giving  the  prices  of  every- 
thing for  the  Winter  and  Spring.     We  will  send  this  free  to  all  who  write  for  it,  enclosing  the  postage,  Two  CENTS. 

Vick's  Floral  Guide  is  a  Quarterly  Magazine,  beautifully  printed  and  illustrated.  Price,  only  25  cents  a 
year.  To  every  one  who  trades  with  us  to  the  amount  of  One  Dollar  it  is  sent  free.  Two  Dollars  for  a  club  of 
Five.  Any  person  having  paid  for  the  GUIDE,  and  afterward  ordering  seeds,  can  deduct  the  money  sent  for  the 
GUIDE.] 

All  my  works  are  published  both  in  the  English  and  German  languages. 

A  Wholesale  Catalogue  published  on  the  151)1  of  December  each  year,  for  the  benefit  of  Dealers  in  Seeds. 
and  sent  free  to  all  who  apply. 


166 


.•:•••• 


i 


1  244     5 


vm 

i 


a 

q 


3 

Hi 


d 


d 


